Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Ginettaman on July 30, 2020, 05:44:19 AM
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I'm new to the forum and have just bought a lovely 2010 V7 classic with low miles from my father. I do my own repairs and restorations and have classic cars and bikes. I've read lots of stories about poor fuelling on V7's so still learning. The v twin sound was not great so to test the sounds I decided to try some cheap cans and they seem to sound good and look great but my worry is the Edu running too lean. Cans cost £46 the pair and the baffles come out for repacking and tuning which I liked. On my first rides the bike runs fine and does not backfire off throttle so it may be ok. It now de-cat but still uses it o2 sensor. If I want to richen the mixture What are my mapping options in the uk. Also how is the tps reset?
(https://i.ibb.co/R3WBhcr/IMG-3906.jpg)
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One of you small block experts speak up .
Dusty
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there is a thread here, you can find via search 'the new & improved guzzidiag tutorial'.
Guzzi diag is a free (donation-based) program for reading/writing guzzi ecu. The thread will outline what you need for cables and computer requirements. WG user Beetle makes maps you can write with guzzi diag, his website is www.griso.org
Not sure if he has a map for the V7 classics, but would assume so. Biggest issue I know of with these is stumble off idle or needing prolonged warmup and general choppy throttle running at parking lot speeds. You CAN reset TPS with guzzi diag also, in fact it's one of the steps.
Hope that helps.
Not sure how many miles on this bike but other issues to check are tank fitment with the pucks that locate the front of the tank, some got very tight due to ethanol swelling, many people ended up cutting the rubber pucks down or replacing them with various rubber bits shimmed with fender washers.... clutch cable routing to keep the cable out of the fins (issues with melted housing), and clutch cable adjustment at the arm on the back of the block (not lever)-- it's a lock nut and set screw setup that can be a bit fiddly to dial in. There are threads on all of the above here, search will find most.
Hope some of this helps! cool bike, I always loved that colorway.
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oh yeah, even a properly tuned V7 classic will blue the pipes a bit with the single-wall headers.. that doesnt necessarily indicate its much too lean.
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To be clear the V7C is the last of the dual throttle body models.
I don't believe there's an off-idle stumble like on the MKI 1TB models. Fast idle is controlled by linkage and a manual fast-idle lever, not a stepper motor.
I would have thought the TPS was a physical adjustment on those models, but I'm not sure.
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I have a 2012 V7C, same color as yours. Mine has the metal gas tank, does yours? Mine is bone stock, only 'mod' I have done so far is to use non-resistor plugs and since I mostly ride in town, went to B7ES from B8ES plugs. I have ordered the Lafranconi red tip mufflers as there is considerable discoloration on the catalytics. I consistantly get 44mpg in town and into the lower 50's on highway rides, with an overall average of 48mpg. So far the only problem I have is re-starting hot, it will not idle unless I hold the throttle up for about a minute, it will however still accelerate normally. One other 'mod' has been a Slipstreamer windshield, makes a big difference in cold weather riding. I have almost 18,000 miles on it, but I strongly suggest when you change tires to pull the drive shaft off and grease everything good, Luigi is stingy with lubing stuff at the factory.
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The ECU in the V7C is the 15RC, it is well written & robust. It will adapt itself to various pipes, usually quite happily. Do re-set the ECU auto learning after mounting new pipes, either through Guzzidiag, or by leaving the negative terminal off for several minutes. It should adjust itself within a few hundred kms.
Note - It's usually recommend that it's better run with the baffles in, and with the standard air filter.
Beetle used to supply a map for the V7C, free because it needed so little work. It's no longer of the website (GRiSO.org) so I would email him about it. It does turn off the lambda.
I've never had fuelling issues on mine & you shouldn't either. I average 4.2L/100k (67mpg imperial). If it's doing much more than that or you're not sometimes getting more than 70mpg, the throttle bodies need balancing. That a vacuum gauge/manometer job. Can make a significant difference to fuel economy. I like to do this job with Guzzidiag - easily to read the rpm & then straightforward to reset the TPS & Autolearning. A simple mechanical throttle lock is also helpful here.
The TPS on these is a simple potentiometer on the RH throttle body. That black plastic lump. Not adjustable. Though it cab be re-set electronically.
Can recommended you get onto the forum Moto-Guzzi-750@groups.io - lots of helpful info, especially in the "Files" section. Whatever you want to know, there's a good chance it's there already.
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Just a thought - it's a 2010, so I suspect some of your hoses are likely to be approaching their use-by date - ends getting hard, brittle & splitting. Certainly the fuel overflow under the tank, and then the breather hoses. Keep an eye on them. Replacement OEM are too expensive, anything that fits & that will take a little heat & a little oil should be fine.
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So Malik, the TPS position can be reset/learned using GuzziDiag then?!?
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So Malik, the TPS position can be reset/learned using GuzziDiag then?!?
Yes. I usually first re-set the TPS, then re-set the auto learning. Unlike some of the Cali's & the Bellagio, the V7's TPS is not adjustable manually, can't be moved to change the voltage. The only thing you can do (I believe/think) is re-set it (I use Guzzidiag) or replace it. At least it can be replaced - I've an idea that the TPS on the 1TB is integral to the throttle body, not sure it can be, and haven't yet taken that off to check.
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Beetle is no longer a member here .
Dusty
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Thanks for the replies, I plan to have a good ride today as 32degrees predicted! The bike has been my fathers since new and always been fine with no blue pipes or problems apart from a loose plug lead once. Sadly it's a plastic tank and it had expanded enough to fall off the tank bobbins so I widened themwith spacers and it now fits straight again. I've also put a nik in the cap rubber seal and I can smell that it breathes now through the cap ok to reduce expansion . The rear tank mount had to be ground out close to the tank to get the mount back on with the rubber cut for space? About 18mm out? The new pipes have straight through central baffles which are re packable. So to reset the Ecu is it just a case of disconnect the battery for a while as that cured the engine light. Such a shame the chrome on the rims and handlebars is so poor but other than that I've cleaned the bike up to as new condition as it only done 9k mainly dry miles. I'll see how she runs and check the plugs after but even with the original pipes the plugs were very pale in colour. [img]https://i.ibb.co/R3y1QH7/IMG-3907.jpg[img]
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It's a shame about the tank, but if you are ever thinking about changing to a metal one, keep in mind that as well as the tank itself you will need to factor in the cost of the paint job, a fuel pump to fit, the tank cap surround, and the fuel hose to the injectors. It was worth it for me, but I put serious miles on mine.
The chrome on my rims is not the best either. I try to keep on top of with more or less regular applications on elbow grease & polish - first scrub the worst off with aluminium foil, then I use the 2 part Purple Polish. I find my rims also rust on the inside - I've cleaned up the rust, applied rust converter, then an etch primer, plus a clear enamel, then bind the inside with self amalgamating tape from the ships chandlery. It works, but the long term solution is sand blasting & powdercoating or re-chroming - I may actually to get to that - eventually.
You too may find the OEM sidecover grommets are inadequate for their purpose. Alternatives are available cheaply from aftermarket sources - opt for some that seem a little firmer & use rubber grease on the prongs.
The spark plugs (BR8ES) and caps are cheap. I recommend a new set of both.
Again, balance the throttle bodies. It makes a difference.
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Oh, and do remove the bevel box and grease the drive shaft splines. I do it again at each rear tyre change.
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Well it was 33 degrees and the bike ran well. The exhaust haven't spoilt the running and on hard acceleration they sound fantastic. They are a little noisy however so I'm going to look at slightly more baffling to tone them down just a little. Because the cans are shorter they look better but the ends are closer to my ears! My hands felt a little numb after a couple of hours due to vibes which I think may be amplified by the exhausts. Also itchy bum in hot leathers due to high temperatures but pleased with the ride. As long as the tank holds fuel I'll not be replacing it due to ridiculous costs. I am worried about changing the fuel filter in case the mounting holes are out so I'll leave it alone as I doubt it will be blocked at 9k miles. I prefer the plastic tank shape too. The air filter change looks like fun but not had a go at that yet. It's had a set of plugs since new.
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(https://i.ibb.co/3RrcDXY/IMG-3956.jpg) (https://i.ibb.co/bXxYjmF/IMG-3957.jpg) Wel her you can see my Dunstall replica baffles inside the new cans. They make it sound much better with a deeper Le Mans exhaust note. (https://i.ibb.co/mG8qMmW/IMG-3936.jpg) I also added new fibre sound lagging and drilled bigger holes in the perforated tubes. I think they look and sound great for less than £50 the pair.
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Very smart. I like it.
Approve of the pricing, too. Where did you get the mufflers? I've a V7 project in the wings that could need another pipe option.