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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: GeorgiaGuzzi on August 19, 2020, 12:09:38 AM
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Had a good ride today except for some rain around Lexington KY. Rolling thru Columbus OH on the way to Cleveland and I noticed a faint wobble/weave. At first I thought it was toad grooves, but it stayed despite changing lanes. I started paying attention and it got worse. Pulled off the interstate, bearings look good. Eased it to the closest hotel, something is bad wrong. I just installed new bearings, made sure to follow manual to the T. Either I messed up the bearings or I’ve got some broke spokes. Either way this is the last straw. I’m renting a truck tomorrow, load up the bike and go home. Get it fixed again, and sell it. Use the proceeds to have a mechanic look at my Quota and that will be my only motorcycle. Does Guzzisteve still wrench on bikes for a living? Anyways, time for some shut eye.
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions, I was really looking forward to trying out some of the spots! Oh well, next year, with a Guzzi!!!
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That’s a pretty damn mature way to deal with a kick in the guts like that one.
There’s no guarantee that the Guzzi will be perfect, but the combined knowlege at your fingertips is a nice secure feeling... :bow: :thumb:
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so, what kind of bike is it?
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so, what kind of bike is it?
2003 Victory V92c. The last year for the classic. Freedom motor (92 CI/1500cc) and they finally got the transmission right. But it doesn’t evoke any strong feelings one way or the other. It’s a great bike, but to put up with issues like it’s had requires a level of passion that I frankly don’t have. Right now I’m like Rhett, “frankly my dear, I don’t give a damn”!
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2003 Victory V92c. The last year for the classic. Freedom motor (92 CI/1500cc) and they finally got the transmission right. But it doesn’t evoke any strong feelings one way or the other. It’s a great bike, but to put up with issues like it’s had requires a level of passion that I frankly don’t have. Right now I’m like Rhett, “frankly my dear, I don’t give a damn”!
Sure sounds like there was "some issue" with the front wheel bearings (?), and frankly, that can happen with any make / model of motorcycle. Good luck with the fix or your ultimate decision toward your next bike... :cool: :thumb:
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I have a 2012 Victory Cross Country Tour since new and I could not be happier with the the reliability, ease of maintenance and handling. IF I were you I would buy the last of the newest breed as they really were the best and price wise very inexpensive. From ABS to heated seats and adjustable controls this is the most confortable bike I have ever ridden. This from someone who has owned many of all brands including a 2007 Norge and too many HD's and BMW's.
(https://i.ibb.co/b6vSxRd/2019-09-03-16-04-30-copy.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b6vSxRd)
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I have a 2012 Victory Cross Country Tour since new and I could not be happier with the the reliability, ease of maintenance and handling. IF I were you I would buy the last of the newest breed as they really were the best and price wise very inexpensive. From ABS to heated seats and adjustable controls this is the most confortable bike I have ever ridden. This from someone who has owned many of all brands including a 2007 Norge and too many HD's and BMW's.
(https://i.ibb.co/b6vSxRd/2019-09-03-16-04-30-copy.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b6vSxRd)
Would have to agree with SemperVee on this one... :thumb: :cool: :wink: (2014 Victory Vision Tour)...and arguably, one of the most comfortable TWO-UP bikes out there!!
(https://i.ibb.co/zfFd4rX/IMG-0949.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zfFd4rX)
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Sorry your trip got messed up. I've only had 1 trip that ended in a rental truck, it was day 14 of a 17 day trip ... and while maybe I could have sorted things out, I was kind of done, and my friend said he was done too, so we rented a one way moving truck and loaded both bikes up for the trip home.
I think the "long trip away from everything" bike has to be as new and reliable as possible. Unfortunately those bikes tend to be a bit boring. :grin: Like a Honda ST1300.
I'm not sure having the 20 year old odd ball Quota as the long trip bike is a good plan (coming from fellow Quota owner). Unless you mechanic the heck out of the thing ... like go through every component/system/sub-system and check/refresh/rebuild. And replace stuff just to be sure. For example ... at one point my voltage regulator was fine ... then it wasn't ... how was I to know when it was going to mess up? Should I have replaced a perfectly fine voltage regulator when I got the bike? Or carry a spare? :grin: How many guys totally rebuild a fine working brake system? Like a master cylinder rebuild kit for a working master cylinder?
I really like the Honda VFR1200X as a long distance bike ... and you can still buy a new leftover one. Just a bit dull. Kind of like they took a Stelvio and removed the character/soul. :laugh: Been thinking about this one, just haven't pulled the trigger yet.
Hope the trip back in the truck can be a bit fun (still go see some sights?) and good luck sorting out/selling the Victory.
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Thanks guys. Input much appreciated especially usedtobefast’s. I got a free upgrade from a frontier to a ram. (Guzzi content!)
(https://i.ibb.co/Zz9Q9bH/5-E11-B872-1-E78-4-C14-B7-FD-4-EABBCDDDAF8.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Zz9Q9bH)
(https://i.ibb.co/qBwBdZd/E74-C0-B41-8260-4-A64-A38-C-000-B12-B69297.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qBwBdZd)
(https://i.ibb.co/tHYw1TD/9072172-E-5-E80-46-E8-A73-F-7-EDD80-D4-C8-AF.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tHYw1TD)
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So, at the end of the day...what was the issue causing the wobble on the poor Victory?!?
(https://i.ibb.co/JrJqZjn/Screen-Shot-2020-08-19-at-10-25-58-AM.png) (https://ibb.co/JrJqZjn)
(https://i.ibb.co/tB6dS4n/Screen-Shot-2020-08-19-at-10-25-51-AM.png) (https://ibb.co/tB6dS4n)
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stating the obvious here - that bearing is tits up...
Mark
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What kind of bearings did you put in? No Indian dealer in Columbus? Just wondering. :huh:
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I had an experience that might sound familiar.
I was going to do a 12,000 km road trip on my Griso so I replaced the front wheel bearings with a set from AllBalls, pretty straight forward, I have done it lots of times.
At the end of the trip I tried to take the front wheel off to replace the rubber but the axel was stuck, I finally got it out by making a puller from 1/2" ready rod.
Imagine my surprise when I found that one of the new bearings I installed had siezed and was spinning on the axel and worn half through.
No more Chinese bearings for me if I can avoid it.
(https://i.ibb.co/RNWxrM2/a4e81520231ee6836c41f3d6b6724fe3-motorcycle-mechanic-monkey-business.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
You are exactly right. Any part that someone needs for ANY MOTORCYCLE had better make sure that it is not manufactured or made in China, especially electrical or metal parts as they are both
junk! Been There and done that enough to know.
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What kind of bearings did you put in? No Indian dealer in Columbus? Just wondering. :huh:
I used all balls. I’ll check the box when I get home for country of manufacture. There is an Indian dealer, but they have a two week backlog for service. Ditto several other places.
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Bummer. Hope all goes well. Even SKF is made all over. Arthur out your way just retired after setting up a plant in Flowery Branch. He set one up in Dalian, China and one in Western NY. They also made bearings in India. SKF is a Swedish Firm but also made bearings in Germany. All Balls sounds real off brand. :shocked:
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I'll take that as a warning, though I normally buy bearings from the local bearing supply house.
Does All Balls have any sort of warranty?
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There's nothing quite like having a trip ruined by a mechanical issues to get you to swear off a particular model or brand of motorcycle.
Which reminds me of an old joke (I won't get it quite right, but...) An old miner and his wife were riding their mule across the desert. Suddenly, the mule, being a mule, stopped abruptly, throwing them to the ground. The old miner went to the mule and said, "That's ONE!" They remounted and rode on. A little way down the trail, the mule stopped again. The old miner went around to the mule's face and said, "That's TWO!" They coaxed the mule into motion again for a mile or two, when yet again, the mule abruptly halted. The old miner went around to the mule's face and said, "That's THREE!" pulled out his revolver and shot the mule dead. The miners wife went ballistic! " What did you do that for, you damn old fool? Now we're stuck out here in the middle of the desert!" The old miner just looked over at his wife and said, "That's ONE!"
I always loved that old joke.
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sorry to hear this but it is almost 30 years old if you can believe that (i have a hard time writing it because 1992 seems like yesterday). I had a 2007 Kingpin Tour Deluxe and for 25,000 miles it was perfect mechanically. I have only owned one other bike I could say that about and it was a 1997 r1100rs that went from 23,500 when I got it to 50,000 when traded. As great as it was mechanically, it was a little vanilla compared to the Harley I traded for it. I traded the Vic on a 2003 K1200RS with very low miles, but that one cost me a bundle over the 32,000 miles I put on it until the reardrive when kaput. luckily I was not on a trip when that happened.
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just go to the local bearing house. the same part number can be had for $12, 15, 18, $25 depending on how long u want it to last.
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And, at the local bearing house you can see where it was made before you pay for it.
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You are exactly right. Any part that someone needs for ANY MOTORCYCLE had better make sure that it is not manufactured or made in China, especially electrical or metal parts as they are both
junk! Been There and done that enough to know.
I think I can say without too much risk that there wont be a new motorcycle made anywhere in the world without some Chinese made parts on it, esp switch gear and electrical components. Looks like it's no new bikes for you:)
Just like anywhere there is good and bad stuff made in China. The brand is more important than the country of origin these days as the major well known brands keep the quality control tight no matter where the components are actually made.
Ciao
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I think I can say without too much risk that there wont be a new motorcycle made anywhere in the world without some Chinese made parts on it, esp switch gear and electrical components. Looks like it's no new bikes for you:)
Just like anywhere there is good and bad stuff made in China. The brand is more important than the country of origin these days as the major well known brands keep the quality control tight no matter where the components are actually made.
Ciao
Exactly!
When we were kids, Japanese crap was to be avoided. Now it's the best. There's good quality stuff made in China so the trick is sorting it out from the junk. Even Harbor Freight has some good stuff - and it's ALL made in China. Isn't it?
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SKF has an "Explorer" series of bearings that are supposedly the top of their production run. They are not priced much beyond their standard line. They are advertised as Explorer by the mail order houses. I've had very good luck with this line (in that I've never worn one out).
PS: Took my 21 year old V11 cross country and return. I wouldn't hesitate to do the same with the 43 year old T3. No problem doing long trips on old machines. They just have to be properly maintained old machines.
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Wow, would have thought even a lesser quality bearing would not have quit on you that soon. Did the bearing seal get injured at some point letting lube get washed out during the rain you encountered? I'd have to give Victory a pass on this issue, though I do understand when it's time to move on, it's time to move on...
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Exactly!
When we were kids, Japanese crap was to be avoided. Now it's the best. There's good quality stuff made in China so the trick is sorting it out from the junk. Even Harbor Freight has some good stuff - and it's ALL made in China. Isn't it?
No, check the tool chest of any professional mechanic and see how many Harbor Freight tool you find. I also have a couple HF large sockets which I may use once a year but used daily they will not hold up. The metal is simply sub standard.
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I said Harbor freight even has some good stuff - meaning some of their stuff is good. I didn't say which stuff was good. :wink:
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Wow, would have thought even a lesser quality bearing would not have quit on you that soon. Did the bearing seal get injured at some point letting lube get washed out during the rain you encountered? I'd have to give Victory a pass on this issue, though I do understand when it's time to move on, it's time to move on...
Me too. I’ll find out tomorrow. Today I’m going to do my best impression of an immovable object! Got the Vic unloaded, and rental truck returned. Now time for a “staycation”
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I said Harbor freight even has some good stuff - meaning some of their stuff is good. I didn't say which stuff was good. :wink:
Fare enough 👍
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Exactly!
When we were kids, Japanese crap was to be avoided. Now it's the best. There's good quality stuff made in China so the trick is sorting it out from the junk. Even Harbor Freight has some good stuff - and it's ALL made in China. Isn't it?
I can remember going shopping with my mom and her sister, my Aunt Alice. Occasionally, we'd end up in a 5 and dime store (McCrorys, Woolworths, etc) and I'd immediately rush to the toy section. Lot of stuff that was stamped "Made in Occupied Japan," if I recall correctly. Of the cheaper toys, the small tin flywheel cars were the cheapest. I didn't realize how cheap until I pried open the tabs holding the body to the 'chassis,' and found the inside of the body still had the logo from the Conquest Lard can it was made from.
The other cheapies were the little wire framed wind up rubber band planes, that were silk covered, with USAAF stickers on the ends of the wings. Almost impossible to trim so they'd fly.
One I liked was called a tomahawk, that consisted of a wooden handle and wooden 'hammer' that held caps (from cap guns. We'd put 3-4 caps in the hammer, then insert the projectile, a small plug with feathers on it, and strike the gound with a healthy swing. The caps exploded, and the feather'd projectile would head for the stars!
Did things change once Japan got back on their feet!
Bob
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You certainly can’t blame the bike for the failure of the aftermarket (All Balls) bearings installed by the owner. Though I have read similar reports about All Balls bearings failing in short order. My oem Polaris sourced Victory wheel bearings are still performing perfectly at 76K miles.
I did purchase a set of All Balls wheel bearings a couple years ago just to have on hand. At this point I wouldn’t trust them without verifying they have adequate grease under the seals. I’ll likely let them roll around the bottom of a trash can and replace the All Balls bearing sets with either SKF or FAG bearings from a local bearing house.
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Good quality tapered roller bearings should outlast the bike with proper preload and lube. Unless one failed I wouldn't replace it.
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Good quality tapered roller bearings should outlast the bike with proper preload and lube. Unless one failed I wouldn't replace it.
Taper roller disappeared with my '66 BMW. They required skill to setup with proper preload. Set up properly and kept clean they ran forever.
Ball bearings are "just fit them into a properly designed hub and drive away". Anyone can replace ball bearings.
Properly selected for the application ball bearings will last a really long timr.
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Tapered roller bearings are used in automotive applications because they handle side loads much better. Yes, ball bearings are easy, but they don't hold up as well. Roller bearings are over-kill on a motorcycle, but can outlast the bike easily. All of my airheads have tapered rollers including the swing arm and steering. As I recall, the LM4 steering head uses tapered rollers, but earlier bikes like the 850T used ball bearings. Ball bearings will do fine in a motorcycle, but if it's got a sidecar mounted you want rollers.
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Tapered roller bearings are used in automotive applications because they handle side loads much better. Yes, ball bearings are easy, but they don't hold up as well. Roller bearings are over-kill on a motorcycle, but can outlast the bike easily. All of my airheads have tapered rollers including the swing arm and steering. As I recall, the LM4 steering head uses tapered rollers, but earlier bikes like the 850T used ball bearings. Ball bearings will do fine in a motorcycle, but if it's got a sidecar mounted you want rollers.
Ural switched all wheels to ball bearing a few years back with no problems.
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Tapered roller bearings are used in automotive applications because they handle side loads much better. Yes, ball bearings are easy, but they don't hold up as well. Roller bearings are over-kill on a motorcycle, but can outlast the bike easily. All of my airheads have tapered rollers including the swing arm and steering. As I recall, the LM4 steering head uses tapered rollers, but earlier bikes like the 850T used ball bearings. Ball bearings will do fine in a motorcycle, but if it's got a sidecar mounted you want rollers.
All of the "big blocks" '67 V700 onward used tapered roller bearings in the steering head, as well as in the swingarm pivot (up to the CARC bikes? which I know little about). The single and twin-leading-shoe drum brakes of Loopframes used tapered rollers as well, the 4LS drum uses ball bearings. The last Loop out of production was the '76 V700 (for police and miliatary only) which still had a single leading rear brake and tapered roller bearings. The Loop tapered rollers are easy to set up, if cleaned and repacked on occasion they will last "forever".
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Well guys and gals, we have a winner of what happened to cut short my road trip.
(https://i.ibb.co/vsfN31g/293-D010-F-90-FB-46-DA-9-AB6-E1-CAD4-BB484-D.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vsfN31g)
(https://i.ibb.co/txcfhGK/6001712-C-7-F08-4-ABF-8104-80-E5-B8849-AE3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/txcfhGK)
So, turns out the All Balls brand bearing on the pulley side terminally failed. The reason I replaced it was because the old bearing on the same side was failing. Turns out All Balls is made in China, which while I’m not anti-China I do suspect their metals based on previous experiences. I’m still selling the bike, I’m going to do another post about that because the bearing failure is not the ultimate reason I’m selling.
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SKF bearings would probably have been better even the ones made in Dalian, China. :tongue: Hope the repair & sale goes well. :thumb:
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No chance the inner spacer was left out of the installation? Only time I've seen bearings eaten up like that is under excessive preload (or a load the bearing wasn't designed for).
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Improper bearing installation would also cause that. I'm NOT saying improper installation caused this particular issue. But, I've seen many people fail to use the proper sized tool to seat bearings. Many use a 'close enough' sized socket and ruin the bearing by hammering it in place.
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Well guys and gals, we have a winner of what happened to cut short my road trip.
<Turns out All Balls is made in China, which while I’m not anti-China I do suspect their metals based on previous experiences.
The last time I changed a set of wheel bearings, it was on my 3 ton single axle utility trailer, I did the job on the weekend and rather than the quality SKFs from General Bearing Supply I would normally use, I used jobber bearings/races from Benson Auto Supply.
The difference in quality was very apparent, you could tell just by looking at the steel in the new ones it was crap,,, if weight was any indicator of quality, the new jobbers in the hand felt 1/3-1/2 the weight of the old ones I had removed. aaarrrggghhhh.
In the future I'll make sure to have good SKFs on hand, BEFORE I start tearing things apart.
Glad to hear that you got stopped and home safely, and it's an easy fix.
Good luck with your decision with the bike.
Kelly
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No chance the inner spacer was left out of the installation? Only time I've seen bearings eaten up like that is under excessive preload (or a load the bearing wasn't designed for).
There is no inner spacer per se on this model Victory. Not even seals on the ends of the bearings ie bearing with 3-4 mm of space with a seal in the 3-4 mm of space. The bearings came with seals, but the wheel had no seals in place when I removed it and if I installed the seals the outer spacers would not fit. there is an inner sleeve that goes between the bearings the the axle shaft passes thru. It was installed properly. No excessive preload, I made sure to tighten everything to spec exactly. And I wasn’t loaded down that heavy. Maybe 35 pounds of gear all told. Nowhere close to two up weight.
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There is no inner spacer per se on this model Victory. Not even seals on the ends of the bearings ie bearing with 3-4 mm of space with a seal in the 3-4 mm of space. The bearings came with seals, but the wheel had no seals in place when I removed it and if I installed the seals the outer spacers would not fit. there is an inner sleeve that goes between the bearings the the axle shaft passes thru. It was installed properly. No excessive preload, I made sure to tighten everything to spec exactly. And I wasn’t loaded down that heavy. Maybe 35 pounds of gear all told. Nowhere close to two up weight.
Have you checked the parts manual to make sure that the spacer/sleeve wasn't left out originally thus causing the original bearings to fail? Most unusual for this type of installation to have no spacer. Even wheels fitted with a spacer thats too short will tend to eat wheel bearings. Its the classic issue with bikes that have short wheel bearing life.
EDIT ....re reading you mention no inner spacer but there was an inner sleeve? So was there an inner sleeve that the axle passes through that engages with the inner bearing races? This sleeve or spacer as I call it is designed to take the compressive load from tightening the axle nut so the bearing inner races aren't loaded which causes premature failure. As mentioned even if this spacer is fitted but is too short in length it causes shortened bearing life due to the loads exerted by the axle tension on the inner bearing races trying to squeeze them together. Ball bearings primary load path is radial not lateral.
Ciao
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Well, Phil, you have found the cause of the bearing failure. I left a couple of millimeters on the ends of the spacer because I thought it shouldn’t be rubbing against the inner bearing races. So I should have made sure the spacer was snugged up. Of well, mea culpa.
However, this just proves what a great resource the people here are!
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It’s just the price of knowledge. Thanks for telling us.
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OEM bearings from online places like www.partspitstop.co m are only $30 for the set for a 2003 V92 Cruiser. Plus they show the Illustrated Parts Breakdown (IPB) making it very clear how things go together and what other parts are involved.
The oem wheel bearings for my later 2012 Victory CCT are $90/set and have Made In Japan right on the package.
I'd guess if you have a local bearing supply store high quality quality bearings can be had for much less.
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Well, Phil, you have found the cause of the bearing failure. I left a couple of millimeters on the ends of the spacer because I thought it shouldn’t be rubbing against the inner bearing races. So I should have made sure the spacer was snugged up. Of well, mea culpa.
However, this just proves what a great resource the people here are!
Ok, good to know what the issue was and it's a straight forward fix.
Ciao
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Well done, Phil, for thinking of that. It hadn't occurred to me the inner spacer could be the culprit.
It's obvious now - the clue being the original bearing failing as well.
Glad you got to the bottom of it, GG, and can move on. That sure settles the issue for me.
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Well done, Phil, for thinking of that. It hadn't occurred to me the inner spacer could be the culprit.
It's obvious now - the clue being the original bearing failing as well.
Glad you got to the bottom of it, GG, and can move on. That sure settles the issue for me.
Thanks. I always check the spacer length when I replace wheel bearings for the first time on a wheel or I think the wheel bearing has failed prematurely. I don't know why but the Italians seem a bit lax with this compared to the Japanese.
Ciao
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It's the same with the old airheads (where I come from) as well - they weren't very well set up from the factory and needed fine tuning. Unless I've got the wheel bearings out, I just check for play or binding. I obviously assumed all was good in that department and didn't even think of it in this case, since it's something I'd have noticed first off. We all know the problem with assumptions, but most of the time they're below the level of consciousness so don't get inspected. Good of you to bring it up.
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One I liked was called a tomahawk, that consisted of a wooden handle and wooden 'hammer' that held caps (from cap guns. We'd put 3-4 caps in the hammer, then insert the projectile, a small plug with feathers on it, and strike the gound with a healthy swing. The caps exploded, and the feather'd projectile would head for the stars!
Bob
My favourite toy. :thumb:
My striker was a brass "combstion chamber" that had a groove machined in it and you tied a piece of string to it. You just had to make sure you stood to one side when you threw it down. O.S.H would have a fit these days.
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It's the same with the old airheads (where I come from) as well - they weren't very well set up from the factory and needed fine tuning. Unless I've got the wheel bearings out, I just check for play or binding. I obviously assumed all was good in that department and didn't even think of it in this case, since it's something I'd have noticed first off. We all know the problem with assumptions, but most of the time they're below the level of consciousness so don't get inspected. Good of you to bring it up.
Here's another wheel bearing tip/learning. For quite a few klms on my V11 I had what I would describe as a light clatter/or rattly vibration through the l/h foot peg on a "floating" throttle only. It wasn't alarming but noticeable as something different. I suspected the drive shaft or rear wheel bearings and check but they seemed ok. I checked the wheel by the usual grab the wheel and twist method and all seemed good. A while later I did something on the bike, cant remember what in the workshop and seemed to notice rear wheel movement. I grabbed a piece of wood and levered against the tyre and swing arm and there was movement. Long story short you sometimes need more force at least at the rear wheel to identify a bad bearing. The drive side was totally shot and had very few klms left in it before it would have failed. Still dont know why the feeling was in the l/h peg when the drive side bearing was the issue, but if you feel this sensation it's a wheel bearing.
Another one. On my ST2 Ducati commuting to work I noticed the front brake lever free travel kept changing. I pull up at a set of lights and it would be normal and after a few klms and corners it would be coming almost back to the bars. Next stop after a small straigh section, lever normal. had me looking for a brake defect until I checked the front wheel bearings....Both shot. What was happening was the worn wheel bearings were allowing wheel movement which would after a few klms and corners was pushing the pads back into the calipers. A stop at the lights and they were pumped back again and would even stay there for a few klms esp on a straight road but corners and they would push back again. Replaced the front wheel bearings and all fixed. You may ask didn't the steering feel a little vauge with shot front wheel bearings? the answer id yes it did but I didn't realise until they were changed out and I got my brakes back to normal and also the steering was now fantastic. the degradation in the steering was gradual and you tend to compensate and not realise how bad it is until something like this happens. Learnings.
So varying front brake lever travel......check the front wheel bearings.
Ciao
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When the rear wheel bearings failed on my EV, I just walked a few miles to the auto parts store and replaced the bearings in a hotel parking lot.
Luckily there was a microbrew along the way to let me take a break.
(https://i.ibb.co/Fs9J16X/20160626-150517.jpg)
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I had an EV that spat all the balls out of the front on one side, I was worried that I would have to trailer it back but no it ran just fine with only one bearing, I did buy a small can of oil and with a straw put oil in where the balls came out of thinking the two races would be rubbing together.
So if you have an EV and the wheel bearing quits, don't panic just take it easy and you will be fine, there was no damage done to the wheel.
Keep riding it would be a little spooky to me. Could there not be a quick catastrophic failure in a situation like that?
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I had an EV that spat all the balls out of the front on one side, I was worried that I would have to trailer it back but no it ran just fine with only one bearing, I did buy a small can of oil and with a straw put oil in where the balls came out of thinking the two races would be rubbing together.
So if you have an EV and the wheel bearing quits, don't panic just take it easy and you will be fine, there was no damage done to the wheel.
I remember Ian Gowanloch doing this once on a Motoplast Kawasaki. Hard on the failed side brake pads,caliper and disk as these components are now trying the support the failed bearing side. Not something I would consider doing Roy unless home was just around the corner.
Ciao
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(https://i.ibb.co/PtX5Y6d/20170711-171639.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PtX5Y6d)
These are off my sidecar wheel. Same indication as Phil. Rear brake needs to be pumped up after turns.
Happens all too often, about every 10k miles or so depending on the curves. This particular failure was repaired in a WG members garage in Fairbanks Alaska. I had a spare set with, and was able to restock my supply while in town. Obviously ball bearings are wrong for this particular application. I eventually plan to have the hub machined to fit tapered rollers. I just need to find a round TUIT.
Here's another wheel bearing tip/learning.
Another one. On my ST2 Ducati commuting to work I noticed the front brake lever free travel kept changing. I pull up at a set of lights and it would be normal and after a few klms and corners it would be coming almost back to the bars. Next stop after a small straigh section, lever normal. had me looking for a brake defect until I checked the front wheel bearings....Both shot. What was happening was the worn wheel bearings were allowing wheel movement which would after a few klms and corners was pushing the pads back into the calipers. A stop at the lights and they were pumped back again and would even stay there for a few klms esp on a straight road but corners and they would push back again. Replaced the front wheel bearings and all fixed. You may ask didn't the steering feel a little vauge with shot front wheel bearings? the answer id yes it did but I didn't realise until they were changed out and I got my brakes back to normal and also the steering was now fantastic. the degradation in the steering was gradual and you tend to compensate and not realise how bad it is until something like this happens. Learnings.
So varying front brake lever travel......check the front wheel bearings.
Ciao
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I remember those. We used to use scissors to trim all the paper we could thereby able to stuff more caps into the hammer.
It would sound like a magnum pistol and the projectile would fly so high and far that it was frequently lost. If the projectile was fired enough times like that the hammer was too enlarged to make good power. It sure did make our ears ring though.
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I guess you guys always have a backup then, I was 200 km from home
I was 100 km from the I5 on Cascades highway, I crept along for a while until I realized nothing was going to happen stopped at the first bike shop I could find.
Even with no balls in the bearing it still offers some support.
No Roy not really. If it has lost its ball it ain't supportin anything. The only thing with balls left was you:) big ones to continue riding it:) As I said the support was the brake caliper,pads and disk on the failed side now keeping the failed side up, along with the good side coping with the added leverage from the one bearing wheel.
Ciao
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No Roy not really. If it has lost its ball it ain't supportin anything. The only thing with balls left was you:) big ones to continue riding it:) As I said the support was the brake caliper,pads and disk on the failed side now keeping the failed side up, along with the good side coping with the added leverage from the one bearing wheel.
Ciao
You are right Ciao as I, unfortunately, have seen the effects of a bearing failure and it’s not only disastrous to the bike it can be disastrous to the rider and passenger. In the end it’s a decision an individual makes and then lives, or not, with the consequences.
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Some guys just don't understand us, Roy. No biggie. I'd probably have done the same thing.
I recall my first bike, a Honda 150 dream, locked up the rear wheel at about 35mph five miles from home. Fishtailed to a stop without crashing. Couldn't see anything wrong. Started it back up and the bike rolled normally. Rode it back home at five or ten mph and pulled the rear wheel. Found one of the sprocket mounting bolts had fallen inside and jammed the works.
Sometimes you just do what you've gotta do. I've been either dirt poor or really tight with my cash so have had to figure out solutions to whatever came up. It can be a lot of fun, actually, if you're not under the gun time-wise.
A mechanic friend told me a story about his VW dying in the middle of the night on a remote section of HWY 1 in California. This was back in the 60s. It was dark, of course being the middle of the night, and cold, so he couldn't really diagnose what was wrong. But he did figure out something was wrong with the fuel delivery. It wasn't getting any. The solution he arrived at was taking apart a ball point pen and putting the writing end into the fuel line. He squished the pointy end down really fine and pointed it into the carb throat. It ran poorly, but was able to hobble along at about 35 and make it where he needed to go.
When you've worked on your own stuff, you get a 'feel' for it and can sort of perceive it and just know if something will work or not. If it's really dangerous, or not - how much (or little) to expect from it or how hard it can be pushed.
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There's still the inner race and the outer race between the axel and the wheel
I was in a foreign country a long way from home, I would do the same again if I had to.
Thats all i'm going to say.
I do understand Roy and i'm not here to win an argument but to pass on hopefully safe and sensible information to people. I've done sketchy stuff in the past and gotten away with it but I'd not recommend it publicly to anyone and upon reflection almost certainly wouldn't do it again. That's what judgement, experience and maturity brings to the table.
So my advice to anyone out there is if you find a failed wheel bearing on a ride no matter where and when park the bike and sort out an alternative. Better a side of the road breakdown in a foreign land than a hospital bed or worse in a foreign land.
Ciao
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Of course you are right there Phil. It was bad of me to suggest someone might do as I did :evil:
Since that incident I take a long hard look at wheel bearings every tire change.
On a trip I usually take a spare even if it's an old one, I'm quite capable of changing one on the side of the road.
If something disastrous was going to happen it would have while the bearing was spiting out the balls.
The only alternative I had was call a tow truck, as it happened I made it at terrible risk to life and limb back to a shop that could change it out.
There was no stress on the brake components, a single ball race is quite capable of handling minimal side thrust.
Cheers
Roy
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On my last road trip just before I took the Breva off the road for winter I found that the front tire had done the rapid disappearing act. There is a bike shop in the isolated town I was staying at run by a very obliging and helpful guy.
He said he put the bike on his table, and as he wandered down to the rear gave the front wheel a spin before he removed it. As he got to the rear he heard a noise from the luggage rack, which stopped when the front wheel stopped spinning. Did it again, same thing. The front spun freely. He had a good look at the bearings when he removed the wheel; one had seized and the other was notchy. Fortunately, both the axle and the hub were undamaged. Bearings were made in France, can't remember whether they were Saeco, NTN or SKF. A recognized brand anyway.
Was REALLY pleased he picked it up; the seized one went straight in the bin but he kept the "good" one to show me. :shocked: I would never had made it home. Top service and all done at a very realistic price.
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Did he have any explanation for the failure?
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Did he have any explanation for the failure?
Nope. Checked it all out and couldn't see anything that would cause it. The first thing he did was to check where they were made, hence he knew they were made in France. 29,000 miles, should have lasted two - three times longer.
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So, just to follow up this experience. If you out riding and your rear wheel bearing goes out, if at all possible stop immediately! I don’t know how Guzzi’s are designed, but a Victory V92c does extensive damage when the bearing goes out. I’m going to have to source a one new axle spacer, hub spacer, and an entire rear wheel. I’m also going to need new rear pads, as the rotor ate into the pad all the way to the metal. The bearing got utterly destroyed.
The wheel had a broken spoke. I don’t know it that contributed to it or not. Either way, a rear bearing failing is expensive if you ride on it! As I have found out.
(https://i.ibb.co/Gv85d0r/FB7729-BA-52-CA-430-D-BE61-D42-EA0-CDD4-AD.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Gv85d0r)
(https://i.ibb.co/L1QSTsH/F11-D2-FCD-E499-411-F-A5-B2-688-AC1-FF0-EB0.jpg) (https://ibb.co/L1QSTsH)
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So, just to follow up this experience. If you out riding and your rear wheel bearing goes out, if at all possible stop immediately! I don’t know how Guzzi’s are designed, but a Victory V92c does extensive damage when the bearing goes out. I’m going to have to source a one new axle spacer, hub spacer, and an entire rear wheel. I’m also going to need new rear pads, as the rotor ate into the pad all the way to the metal. The bearing got utterly destroyed.
The wheel had a broken spoke. I don’t know it that contributed to it or not. Either way, a rear bearing failing is expensive if you ride on it! As I have found out.
(https://i.ibb.co/Gv85d0r/FB7729-BA-52-CA-430-D-BE61-D42-EA0-CDD4-AD.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Gv85d0r)
(https://i.ibb.co/L1QSTsH/F11-D2-FCD-E499-411-F-A5-B2-688-AC1-FF0-EB0.jpg) (https://ibb.co/L1QSTsH)
Yep👍