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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Solorider73 on September 08, 2020, 08:01:55 PM
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Update June 2023 with 10,600 Miles
New Rear Drive from Piaggio.
Fixed
Rear hub had a hair line crack allowing oil to pass the seal when hot. MG replaced the hub under warranty with no leaks at 1500 miles as of this writing.
Original
Rode my 2019 V7 III Stone for a few hours yesterday. Looking over the bike when I got home, I noticed dried oil on the rear wheel. The vent plug is clear and no oil has been added since it's 600 mile service. It appears to be coming out around the hub. I assume this is a prelude to the infamous rear drive seal leak? Any thoughts? Currently has 3100 miles.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-bg5FPtK/0/d958d6ef/X2/i-bg5FPtK-X2.jpg)
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Veering slightly away from topic, but the manual doesn't call for final drive oil replacement at 600 miles, does it? I was thinking not until 12,000.
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You may be right, I'll have to look at the manual. I just assumed all fluids were changed at the first service.
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I recall being surprised that engine and gearbox get changed at 600, and was surprised that the final drive wasn't due for a long time.
So, I haven't done mine yet, so I don't know anything about it, but could the oil be a result of an overfill?
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I recall being surprised that engine and gearbox get changed at 600, and was surprised that the final drive wasn't due for a long time.
So, I haven't done mine yet, so I don't know anything about it, but could the oil be a result of an overfill?
I have not placed any new oil in since new so it's not likely from over fill unless it occurred at the factory.
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Hope it gets handled without much fuss. I'll be paying attention to what you find out, just passed 2,000 on mine...
Oh, and I'm pretty sure first service on all V7III models is at 900 miles, not 600.
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Take a 10mm Allen wrench and remove the plug from the rear, nothing should run out but be prepared for it to be over-full.
I found mine had water in the oil, I suspect from riding in the rain or perhaps washing.
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Take a 10mm Allen wrench and remove the plug from the rear, nothing should run out but be prepared for it to be over-full.
I found mine had water in the oil, I suspect from riding in the rain or perhaps washing.
Thanks I’ll try it after work today and report back.
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Veering slightly away from topic, but the manual doesn't call for final drive oil replacement at 600 miles, does it? I was thinking not until 12,000.
The manual calls for the first service to be performed at 1500 kilometers. (932 miles.) IIRC, you are correct about the rear drive but...
I did notice some extended intervals that I thought were optimistic to say the least. That being said, exceeding said service interval cannot hurt. Even though it is a few bucks more out of my pocket, I think I'll do the gearbox and final drive when I do the engine oil and filter. There is simply nothing detrimental to doing more frequent service.
John Henry
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Take a 10mm Allen wrench and remove the plug from the rear, nothing should run out but be prepared for it to be over-full.
I found mine had water in the oil, I suspect from riding in the rain or perhaps washing.
My experience with water in the final drive, which happened often to me before sealing up the rubber boot, always resulted in leakage out from the breather. If this is radial, then methinks an overfilled system is just an add-on headache that’s not hard to remedy. Correct me if I’m wrong, but leakage from the hub screams of a bad seal.
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My experience with water in the final drive, which happened often to me before sealing up the rubber boot, always resulted in leakage out from the breather. If this is radial, then methinks an overfilled system is just an add-on headache that’s not hard to remedy. Correct me if I’m wrong, but leakage from the hub screams of a bad seal.
When I removed the drive shaft for greasing I found some water at the far end spline, I suspected this came in around the boot but also the flange where the hub bolts to the drive shaft tunnel has no gasket so it could get in there
The check valve in the vent is a one way (ball bearing sitting on a seat, no spring) that would normally lead to a negative pressure as the hub heats then cools, it could possibly stick to the seat and cause over-pressure as the hub goes from cold to hot.
BTW I found the hub on my bike gets almost too hot to hold your hand on after 100 miles or so of brisk riding.
UPDATE November 2024
I found that the Q strap holding the boot in place creates a perfect inlet for water thrown up from the front wheel, I replaced this with a better worm drive clamp and never had the problem again
In my opinion Q straps should never be used to hold a boot in place there is no radial pressure where the strap enters the ratchet head.
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I'm replacing the mushroom vent with a banjo bolt/tube as has been recommended in various posts on this subject. I just checked mine and with 3K miles of mixed riding it was clogged. There was quite a vacuum when I opened the fill plug too. Draining the drive showed some evidence of water in the oil but it was not overly full.
Here's the link to a related thread: https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=96730.0 (https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=96730.0)
Here's what I ordered:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Oil-Feed-Banjo-Bolt-Kit-M10x1-5mm-for-SUBARU-IHI-VF30-VF35-VF37-1-5mm-Hole/153450384580?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Oil-Feed-Banjo-Bolt-Kit-M10x1-5mm-for-SUBARU-IHI-VF30-VF35-VF37-1-5mm-Hole/153450384580?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)
(https://i.ibb.co/4YD4Nkc/s-l400.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4YD4Nkc)
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Ah, right. Forgot the breather can clog up. I have the banjo bolt and hose ready to be fitted should that become an issue for me, but I’m holding off from doing it immediately in order to see if sealing the rubber boot indeed fixed my own water problem.
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Makes you wonder how shaft bikes do water crossings. Mmm.
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Makes you wonder how shaft bikes do water crossings. Mmm.
Dunno. Those consequential moments got edited out of the Charlie and Ewan videos in favor of more road spills.
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Several weeks ago I bought a quart of Motul synthetic 85W/140 for my 900 mile dealer service tomorrow. Then I read malik's post https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=107379.msg1701379#msg1701379 recommending non-synthetic. So I checked the owner and service manuals. Both said synthetic for engine and gearbox but did NOT say synthetic for final drive. Yesterday I bought a quart of Castrol 85W/140 which I will have the dealer use tomorrow. Yeah I know the service intervals so don't bother reminding me.
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Veering slightly away from topic, but the manual doesn't call for final drive oil replacement at 600 miles, does it? I was thinking not until 12,000.
When I bought the Classic new in 2010, I dropped the engine oil at 35km (shop to home). There was a lot of metal swarf clustered on the magnet as well as sparkling in the oil. Same thing at 599 & at 1,000km. Interesting. Over time and oil changes the amount (& size) of the metal on the magnets of the engine, gearbox & final drive gradually reduced. I conclude from this that when new there's a lot of sharp bits that are gradually smoothed with use. However, given that most riders do not do so, and the engine, gearbox & final drive appear to last a long tome without problems, I'd hazard a guess & say the practice is of marginal utility - those moving parts appear to be built so as to cope with those bits of metal floating around. Even so, changing the oils more frequently, especially in the early days, shouldn't hurt.
Back on topic - at 3,000 miles, the final drive seals should not be leaking. If there is not over much oil in there, it could possibly be a bad seal, and thus a warranty job. I've a mate with an older LeMans - it always leaked at the final drive. Several rebuilds & new seals didn't fix it for long, until he changed the final drive casing. It doesn't leak any more - likely the machining on the original casing was slightly off. Once every blue moon, something like this happens.
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Makes you wonder how shaft bikes do water crossings. Mmm.
It seems the V85 has a hole at the bottom of the swingarm where the water usually collects, probably for just this purpose. That bike is expected to venture into the less civilised byways. Greasing the whole of the drive shaft would seem to be a wise precaution.
I once was caught out in bulldust country with serious rain. When wet, bulldust turns into sticky clay, coats the tyres so there is no tread, and is scraped off by the mudguard and the swingarm. When I eventually removed the V7's swingarm, there was still the coarser particles of that bulldust living inside the swingarm, rust all along the shaft and the grease at uni joint and splines was still red from the dust. That clay had been squeezed past the boot into the swingarm. Next time this happens, I'll get on it a lot quicker.
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My experience with water in the final drive, which happened often to me before sealing up the rubber boot, always resulted in leakage out from the breather. If this is radial, then methinks an overfilled system is just an add-on headache that’s not hard to remedy. Correct me if I’m wrong, but leakage from the hub screams of a bad seal.
I removed the rear plug after work today. Oil looks good in level and color. No grey or milky colors and I could see the oil level from the rear with a flash light and my finger. I don't think it's leaking much as it's hard to see with the poor lighting in my garage. However in the bright sunlight I can see the streaks of dried oil coming from the hub. I'm assuming a bad seal at this point. I had already checked the vent bolt and it wasn't clogged. Since it's still under warranty, I've made an appointment to have it checked.
I appreciated all the great feedback. I will change the vent bolt to one of the suggestions above once I get the seal repaired. I'll update when I get a result from the dealer.
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Makes you wonder how shaft bikes do water crossings. Mmm.
Great observation. I going to breakout my Google fu and look up BMW GS rear drive leaks. Seems they would have the most complaints given people actually take them off road.
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Update:
Rear seal was leaking and replaced under warranty. I rode it home which is around 100 miles with no leaks, so I'm happy with the result. Hopefully this is the first and only rear seal leak for this bike.
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Update:
Rear seal was leaking and replaced under warranty. I rode it home which is around 100 miles with no leaks, so I'm happy with the result. Hopefully this is the first and only rear seal leak for this bike.
Someone needs to update their signature. :thumb:
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Done :thumb:
I took the V85 for it's 900 mile oil change and picked up the V7.
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Update:
I have about 1000 miles on my V7 III Stone since the rear seals were replaced under warranty. Last week after a ride, I noticed what looked like some oil on the rim, but it wasn't much and I wrote it off as road grime. I took it out today for a 225 mile ride and yes it appears to be leaking rear drive oil again from the hub. I checked the breather cap and it wasn't blocked or stuck. I may go ahead and try the banjo bolt as was previously mentioned, but I don't have much faith in that being the issue.
I'm beginning to think the rear drive is just defective. :violent1:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-mKf4HZD/0/0aa275fa/L/i-mKf4HZD-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-NnGvKCP/0/bcbc9465/L/i-NnGvKCP-L.jpg)
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Solorider73 -- what lubricant are you using? The non-synthetic Castrol 85W/140 I cited above is leak-free for my 2019 V7 III 3K miles.
I have a good multi-brand dealer but I do NOT let them choose fluids -- I provide them because that ensures I know what is used. Everything else they provide because MG is pretty much their only choice.
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:cry: Bummer. Hope you can get a replacement easily.
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Solorider73 -- what lubricant are you using? The non-synthetic Castrol 85W/140 I cited above is leak-free for my 2019 V7 III 3K miles.
I have a good multi-brand dealer but I do NOT let them choose fluids -- I provide them because that ensures I know what is used. Everything else they provide because MG is pretty much their only choice.
I don't know for sure since the dealer assembled it, but it did have Castrol on the ticket.
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:cry: Bummer. Hope you can get a replacement easily.
Yea, I'm going to try the banjo bolt and if it still leaks I will take it back to the dealer.
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Castrol makes several 75W-140 gear oils that are synthetic which is popular these days. The non-synthetic 85W-140 GL-5 is carried by O'Reilly among others. And (MG content) it's cheaper.
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Hate to be dim, but what exactly am I looking at in those photos? Is it weeping enough to cause a slippery tire, or a low level of oil?
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Hate to be dim, but what exactly am I looking at in those photos? Is it weeping enough to cause a slippery tire, or a low level of oil?
It's hard to see in the pics, but there are oil streaks on the rim and tire. It's not low on oil yet. When it happened before, it started as weeping and gradually got worse.
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When replacing inboard large lip seal there are some pitfalls which some workshops may or may not be aware . First do not push the lip seal any more than flush with the casing as it can touch the large ball race if pushed too far.
Second check surface on crown gear shaft where lip seal runs .It is a good idea to polish this surface ie 1200 wet and dry . I did this job on 750 Breva no leaks now .My Stornello seems Ok at 11000 Kim's. I use non synthetic in FD and change at same time as eng.Hope this is helpful have a Merry Christmas .
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I ride my V7iii in the rain a lot, water was leaking in at the bottom of the boot and over-filling the hub.
The clip inside the boot is a poor design, it doesn't hold the boot against the bottom of the tunnel, I added some gasket cement and it seems to have stopped the water ingress., I bought a new boot and I will make a revised clip to hold it in place.
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When replacing inboard large lip seal there are some pitfalls which some workshops may or may not be aware . First do not push the lip seal any more than flush with the casing as it can touch the large ball race if pushed too far.
Second check surface on crown gear shaft where lip seal runs .It is a good idea to polish this surface ie 1200 wet and dry . I did this job on 750 Breva no leaks now .My Stornello seems Ok at 11000 Kim's. I use non synthetic in FD and change at same time as eng.Hope this is helpful have a Merry Christmas .
Thanks for the suggestions.
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I ride my V7iii in the rain a lot, water was leaking in at the bottom of the boot and over-filling the hub.
The clip inside the boot is a poor design, it doesn't hold the boot against the bottom of the tunnel, I added some gasket cement and it seems to have stopped the water ingress., I bought a new boot and I will make a revised clip to hold it in place.
So far mine hasn't had any water intrusion. My oil still looks good and clear. Sealing up the boot would be good preventative maintenance.
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Mine developed the leak at a bit under 3,000 miles. It has been "fixed" under warranty and is in storage at the dealership. Next Spring will tell the tale. Fingers crossed it doesn't become an ongoing issue. I doubt that I'll hang on to it if so.
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Mine developed the leak at a bit under 3,000 miles. It has been "fixed" under warranty and is in storage at the dealership. Next Spring will tell the tale. Fingers crossed it doesn't become an ongoing issue. I doubt that I'll hang on to it if so.
I really like my V7 and hope a second repair will resolve the issue. Having said that, if the next repair doesn’t resolve it then it will need a new home. I generally buy new bikes and this is the first one I’ve ever had a warranty claim against.
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I ride my V7iii in the rain a lot, water was leaking in at the bottom of the boot and over-filling the hub.
The clip inside the boot is a poor design, it doesn't hold the boot against the bottom of the tunnel, I added some gasket cement and it seems to have stopped the water ingress., I bought a new boot and I will make a revised clip to hold it in place.
K-Roy,
Can you give us some photos of the problem, and your solution.
Joe
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I look for an API "MT-1" rating. This is a manual transmission rating and contains a seal conditioner. Not all gear lubes carry this API certification, nor contain seal conditioners. It may have nothing to do with a Moto Guzzi rear drive leak, but it certainly would not hurt anything.
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My Castrol choice was a tradeoff: "Castrol SAE 85W-140 [and Castrol SAE 80W-90]; AP Gear Lubricant; 1 Quart; Castrol AP (all-purpose) Gear Lubricant is a multi-purpose, extreme pressure gear oil that has superior thermal durability and will provide transmission, differential and other application protection beyond that specified for the current SAE J2360 (formerly MIL-PRF-2105E), API GL-5 and API MT-1 (80W-90) requirements."
While both were GL-5, only the 80W-90 offered MT-1 while MG specified 85W-140. And I ride in SoCal summers. If I get any leakage I'll switch to the 80W-90 for a few K miles. And if I still get leakage I'll ask for warranty service.
API Gear Oil Specifications
GL-5 Active The designation API GL-5 denotes lubricants intended for gears, particularly hypoid (see note) gears, in axles operating under various combinations of high-speed/shock load and low-speed/high-torque conditions.
MT-1 Active The designation API MT-1 denotes lubricants intended for non-synchronized manual transmissions used in buses and heavy-duty trucks. Lubricants meeting the requirements of API MT-1 service provide protection against the combination of thermal degradation, component wear, and oil-seal deterioration, which is not provided by lubricants in current use meeting only the requirements of API GL-1, 4, or 5.
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Thanks, I was not aware of the MT-1 spec. More good info here—seems like an attempt to make gear oil have the seal preserving qualities engine oil has.
https://www.lelubricants.com/wp-content/uploads/pdf/techtips/079%20Gear%20Oils.pdf
For what it’s worth, I’ve always run Mobil 1 75W-140 in the final drive, which meets the GL5 spec, but apparently not MT-1. I’ve never had any problem with leaking, with 100,000 miles so far.
My hunch is the seal is sensitive to the smoothness of the metal it bears on. If it’s smooth and set up right, it works a long time and doesn’t leak. Otherwise, you get problem.
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For what it’s worth, I’ve always run Mobil 1 75W-140 in the final drive, which meets the GL5 spec, but apparently not MT-1. I’ve never had any problem with leaking, with 100,000 miles so far. My hunch is the seal is sensitive to the smoothness of the metal it bears on. If it’s smooth and set up right, it works a long time and doesn’t leak. Otherwise, you get problem.
Yes, Sir. That's pretty much it.
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Next Spring will begin year two of my ownership, and warranty. I plan to ride the snot out of it, and hopefully it's smooth sailing. If it has to go in more than once next season for this leak, however, it will be time to think about a lemon law filing. Perhaps that would be the sort of wake-up they need...
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Hi I don't post much but do watch I had a similar issue with my 2013 v7
It had sat for a very long time coastal air causing a number of issues rusty tank etc that I am working through anyway diff started leaking considerably worse than yours unusually for me I started looking at dismantling and replacing seal ( the correct way ) spoke with a work mate a mechanic tells me an old used car dealer trick add a coke bottle cap full of brake fluid to the diff oil it swells and softens the seal since doing this problem solved I was hesitant but figured I would be changing the seal so worth a try worked for me no doubt though if I had warranty I would use it
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K-Roy,
Can you give us some photos of the problem, and your solution.
Joe
Here is the boot and clip removed, the ends of the clip are very sharp its stiff, there's nothing to grab on to. I put a couple of holes in the rubber before I got it apart.
(https://i.ibb.co/y4HW0Hj/DSCN0482.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qJTkBTQ)
Notice how a large part of the boot is unsupported by the clip, from 7 to 8 O'clock, this just so happened to be right where it gets splashed with water.
From the rust you can tell its been wet in there I figure there must have been at least 50cc of water in the rear hub, there is no seal at the hub inlet shaft.
(https://i.ibb.co/84TNJ7Z/DSCN0476.jpg) (https://ibb.co/R4ZY1Dw)
The easy fix would be to just run around the boot with silicone or some other sealant. If you do this be sure to check the hub for water as well.
You should really drop the swing arm off at some stage to grease the splines, I did mine when I put the new tire on.
I patched up the holes I put in my boot and ordered a replacement, it was quite cheap.
I'm going to make a new clip from a SS bicycle spoke and it will go past 360 with a small bend or loop at each end for circlip pliers. The clip doesn't need to be that strong especially if you have it sealed as well. I will probably wait for the next tire change.
I put some non hardening gasket goo on the flange face where the hub bolts on just to repel water.
At the same time I put a small rubber dam in the tunnel with a drain screw, so far I have had no water ingress in spite of riding in torrential rain.
I might as well show you the drive shaft again. Actually if you click on one of the images you might be able to view the album.
(https://i.ibb.co/jw1bfdT/DSCN0481.jpg) (https://ibb.co/R6VYb19)
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Kiwi,
Thank you. Did you drill + tap for a drain screw?
MG940,
Interesting trick. I'll retain that.
Joe
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Numerous threads on the OEM vent clogging/not working. I went with the banjo bolt and breather hose fix.
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Numerous threads on the OEM vent clogging/not working. I went with the banjo bolt and breather hose fix.
The problem is that most of those threads the OP never comes back with the actual remedy. It’s just the breather bolt is so bad everyone just assumes that’s the problem. As I had stated, my breather bolt was not stopped up. I pulled the breather bolt off and could hear the bb moving. I could blow through it with no resistance. I plan to put a banjo bolt on it for preventing maintenance, but I’m confident it’s not the cause of the leak. The first time it leaked it started as a seep and slowly got worse. I suspect smithswede had the right answer, some have poor seal finishes. Time will tell and I will keep updating until it’s fixed or I trade it.
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The problem is that most of those threads the OP never comes back with the actual remedy. It’s just the breather bolt is so bad everyone just assumes that’s the problem. As I had stated, my breather bolt was not stopped up. I pulled the breather bolt off and could hear the bb moving. I could blow through it with no resistance. I plan to put a banjo bolt on it for preventing maintenance, but I’m confident it’s not the cause of the leak. The first time it leaked it started as a seep and slowly got worse. I suspect smithswede had the right answer, some have poor seal finishes. Time will tell and I will keep updating until it’s fixed or I trade it.
:thumb: agreed - similar problems may not have the same solution
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Notice how a large part of the boot is unsupported by the clip, from 7 to 8 O'clock, this just so happened to be right where it gets splashed with water.
Would a cable tie work? Vs the metal clip? 100% coverage all around, pull tight, etc. Or is there no room?
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Would a cable tie work? Vs the metal clip? 100% coverage all around, pull tight, etc. Or is there no room?
Cable ties were never intended as hose clamps, they just have to hold a cable in place. If you look at a tie it makes a Q shape, it doesn't hold tight where the tail is.
I found a metal clip that seems to do a better job, there are plenty of better clips in a hardware store.
Kiwi,
Thank you. Did you drill + tap for a drain screw?
MG940,
Interesting trick. I'll retain that.
Joe
Yes, just a 6mm thread, I have a short bolt with an "O" ring to seal it, inside just beside the hole i glued a small piece of rubber mat. There was a natural spot a few inches from the flange, I can just turn it out with my fingers, picture added. I believe there may have been a fitting at that spot before. ,underneath about 3" from the hub.
(https://i.ibb.co/72fxWbb/EPSON283.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Fgrkwnn)
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Thanks Kiwi,
The drain plug is on my list of mods to do.
Joe
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FD oil leaking persistently from cush drive area onto wheel rim .If you have checked the vent is unblocked and your FD oil level is correct then I would be 99% sure one of the the crown shaft lip seals is leaking most probably the large inboard one. This is a $20 viton seal about 3 hours to change. The hardest thing is getting the inner race of the roller bearing off otherwise fairly straight forward. Certainly no need to sell your V7 Guzzi for this problem.
BTW I just use a 5 mm good quality ty- rap on drive shaft boot .Much kinder than the metal hose clip and seals adequately for my riding conditions .
Happy New Year.
Duncan
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I wanted to provide an update on my rear drive leak. I took it back to the dealer about a month ago after riding with a weeping rear drive for a while hoping the weep would get worse and easier to find. When I took it in, the guy at the desk said "it's probably the rear seals, we see those a lot". I told him they had already changed the rear seals and it didn't solve the problem and to look harder. Well they called me today to let me know that the rear drive gear had a hairline crack that was allowing oil to bypass the seals. This makes sense sense because I wouldn't see any weeping until I got around 100 miles on a ride. It was repaired under warranty.
I'll have to get it home and ride it for the final verdict, but it is promising that they did find a root cause.
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I'm pleased to report that since last December my bike has not leaked again, I'm convinced it was water leaking into the hub via the leaky boot that caused the problem in the first place
Sealing the boot it seems to have fixed the problem, touch wood.
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I wanted to provide an update on my rear drive leak. I took it back to the dealer about a month ago after riding with a weeping rear drive for a while hoping the weep would get worse and easier to find. When I took it in, the guy at the desk said "it's probably the rear seals, we see those a lot". I told him they had already changed the rear seals and it didn't solve the problem and to look harder. Well they called me today to let me know that the rear drive gear had a hairline crack that was allowing oil to bypass the seals. This makes sense sense because I wouldn't see any weeping until I got around 100 miles on a ride. It was repaired under warranty.
I'll have to get it home and ride it for the final verdict, but it is promising that they did find a root cause.
:thumb:
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Okay a little more information for completeness. The person I spoke to at the dealership apparently didn't understand the components that were replaced. According to the bill, the component that had a crack was not the gear assembly, but the hub assembly aka "Flexible Couplings Hub".
Item 16 in the diagram.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-gMHdWkv/0/6ad6962d/M/i-gMHdWkv-M.jpg)
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Would be interesting to know exactly where the cush drive shaft item (16) cracked it's a fairly robust steel part.
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Would be interesting to know exactly where the cush drive shaft item (16) cracked it's a fairly robust steel part.
Agreed, pretty robust party to fail. However, it has been leaking since new, so it may have been a defective part from new.
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Okay a little more information for completeness. The person I spoke to at the dealership apparently didn't understand the components that were replaced. According to the bill, the component that had a crack was not the gear assembly, but the hub assembly aka "Flexible Couplings Hub".
Item 16 in the diagram.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-gMHdWkv/0/6ad6962d/M/i-gMHdWkv-M.jpg)
I'm at 1200 miles since the hub was replaced with not even a wisp of oil on the rear drive. I think I will call it fixed at this point.
Thanks for all the input.
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:thumb:
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When searching for leak fixes for my Quota I found this....
"Leaky Rear Drive?
The best fix for the Sport I and Centauro rear drives that leak is to let the pressure out when it's hot, then tighten it back up. The only problem is that if the seal is actually blown, you may have to replace it, then do this procedure. The earlier '97 Sports were claimed to have the wrong size nut that spins inside the pinion seal. This is not true. I've replaced those with an "updated" version and had the same problem. It wasn't until a couple years ago that I discovered the simple "suction" fix works great. Please do not install a breather kit with a hose. It will just boil out the hose onto your tire anyway."
I like the simple, easy and no cost option. Going to give it a go on the Quota.
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When searching for leak fixes for my Quota I found this....
"Leaky Rear Drive?
The best fix for the Sport I and Centauro rear drives that leak is to let the pressure out when it's hot, then tighten it back up. The only problem is that if the seal is actually blown, you may have to replace it, then do this procedure. The earlier '97 Sports were claimed to have the wrong size nut that spins inside the pinion seal. This is not true. I've replaced those with an "updated" version and had the same problem. It wasn't until a couple years ago that I discovered the simple "suction" fix works great. Please do not install a breather kit with a hose. It will just boil out the hose onto your tire anyway."
I like the simple, easy and no cost option. Going to give it a go on the Quota.
Might work if the parts are machined correctly.
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Update at 10,600 miles.
After riding on the new hub for ~5000 miles, the rear drive started leaking again. I happened to be at the dealer when it leaked so I left it for them to inspect. The following week, the dealer called and stated that they couldn't see anything wrong with it so they had pushed it to Piaggio for guidance since this bike is on it's third rear drive leak. The bike is out of warranty, so I didn't have much hope Piaggio would do anything. To my surprise the agreed to replace the rear drive if I would pay the labor of $230. I now have a new rear drive and hope that my leaky rear drive problems are behind me.