Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: ohiorider on September 14, 2020, 04:33:53 PM
-
I think the answer is 'no.' but wanted to make sure. 2nd question ...... if all the smallblock swingarms are double sided with an axle, how easy or difficult to remove and replace the rear wheel and tire? Both my previous Guzzis were big blocks with single side CARC final drive. I'm fairly sure after talking with John Henry, they may not come with a center stand.
Must be getting old ..... sure not getting better!
Bob
-
I think the CARC bikes were the only single sided swingarm bikes.
I haven't had to take my rear wheel off yet, but I have an Alpina on order so that time is coming.
-
ohiorider -- where are we going with this topic? Asking for a friend or what...?
-
ohiorider -- where are we going with this topic? Asking for a friend or what...?
Yo, Bert ..... asking for a lifelong friend .... me! :grin:
As long as I'm posting .... Biz, good to hear from you! Hope you're able to dodge all the firestorms in the SW. Of course, it's difficult to burn sand in southern AZ, but you guys are experiencing some really hot weather. Hang tight.
Bob
-
Bob,
Smallblock rear wheel removal isn't stupid easy like the CARCs, but it's hardly a bear.
No they don't come with centerstands, but they are easily added.
Rear wheel removal can be approached multiple ways:
* Remove the rear pumpkin
or
* Remove the left exhaust pipe and/or left shock and pivot it out of the way.
I believe it may help to let some air out of the tire too.
-
The Lario is stupid easy. Remove lower rear shock bolt. Drive out axle. Roll out wheel. Why they made it harder on the "new improved small block v 2.0" is beyond me.
No. There is no single side swing arm small block.
-
Yo, Bert ..... asking for a lifelong friend .... me! :grin:
As long as I'm posting .... Biz, good to hear from you! Hope you're able to dodge all the firestorms in the SW. Of course, it's difficult to burn sand in southern AZ, but you guys are experiencing some really hot weather. Hang tight.
Bob
Our big fire was earlier in the year and went on for weeks, we were socked in with smoke on a few days.
Thankfully we've just started to get reliably under 100 degrees, I'm getting tired of the heat.
-
The Lario is stupid easy. Remove lower rear shock bolt. Drive out axle. Roll out wheel. Why they made it harder on the "new improved small block v 2.0" is beyond me.
No. There is no single side swing arm small block.
Nah, the SSAs (CARCS) are stupid easy. Take off lug nuts, remind e wheel.
-
Bob,
Smallblock rear wheel removal isn't stupid easy like the CARCs, but it's hardly a bear.
No they don't come with centerstands, but they are easily added.
Rear wheel removal can be approached multiple ways:
* Remove the rear pumpkin
or
* Remove the left exhaust pipe and/or left shock and pivot it out of the way.
I believe it may help to let some air out of the tire too.
kev got it
on the v7's youd deff be easier with a milano or a rough or a night pack vs. a special or a cafe classic
but its the same as kev says on the older smallblocks... left exhaust off, flip up the shock, and flat the tire-- assuming you have a centerstand.. I usually put a 2x4 under the stand
-
Depends on how you define "smallblock". The Galletto scooter (160cc or 190cc) is a single cylinder with a true, one-sided swingarm.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
(https://i.ibb.co/jZ8JjPd/G160-P-0063.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jZ8JjPd)
-
Depends on how you define "smallblock". The Galletto scooter (160cc or 190cc) is a single cylinder with a true, one-sided swingarm.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
(https://i.ibb.co/jZ8JjPd/G160-P-0063.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jZ8JjPd)
Too small, Patrick! :laugh:
Bob
-
Bellagio (930) and Griso 800 were the smallest of the CARC bikes I believe, but not small blocks. I havent tried to remove the rear tire on the V7 yet, but I don't think it is that big of a deal.
The Single Side High Exhaust on the Stornello will make tire changes relatively easy. If that is a concern/deal breaker, may be worth a look.
-
I think Kev m is pulling our driveshaft with final drive removal.
So I looked at my V7 III Stone which has an H&B centerstand. I think removing the left muffler, rear caliper and ABS sensor would provide adequate space to remove the rear wheel leaving the left shock in place. Even if the shock must be moved out of the way, I'd still remove the caliper and sensor because bending the tone wheel would put you in an unhappy place TCS- and ABS-wise.
But as fascinating as this discussion is, it doesn't answer my original question: What's this all about ohiorider? Are you writing a book? Are you contemplating a smallblock for your stable? Don't be shy. :smiley:
-
With the V85, if you remove the torque pin that stops the caliper from rotating under brake application
This one...
(https://i.ibb.co/hmN5vCj/C39-F7-F3-D-F07-D-4583-95-C3-6-AE6982-F9-BA0.png) (https://ibb.co/hmN5vCj)
the rear wheel is very easy to remove/replace.
Trying to get the wheel tyre combination out is harder if you don’t...(but it can be done).
-
Bob, you are correct regarding the center stand, but as Kev said, can be added. I had one installed prior to taking delivery. Although I have some time before I need to replace the tires, I expect it to be fairly easy. When I look at pics, I think the III's have a slightly more upswept exhaust. It **might** be necessary to pull one of my mufflers in order for the axle to come out, but maybe not. Kev would likely know for sure. I honestly have not paid attention to that very closely.
I believe I will be able to roll the tire/wheel out from underneath with just the center stand.
I haven't had to do it on our III yet so can't say.
Also, I BELIEVE I needed a block of wood under my Mk I's centerstand for clearance when I last did the rear tire on it. But that was before I had the lift.
-
Thanks Kev. I think the Milano I have use the shorter fenders that are available in the accessory catalog, with the lights being mounted on a metal hoop above the fender. This of course varies by model. In my particular case, the fender comes off very easily with some small bolts so I'm good either way. (I popped it off when I did the C-Bows.)
John Henry
-
Thanks Kev. I think the Milano I have use the shorter fenders that are available in the accessory catalog, with the lights being mounted on a metal hoop above the fender. This of course varies by model. In my particular case, the fender comes off very easily with some small bolts so I'm good either way. (I popped it off when I did the C-Bows.)
John Henry
Yeah, good point, duh. Our Carbon Dark has that set-up too.
-
EDIT: The big plastic mudguard on the V7s is a bit cumbersome to get a wheel past, but doable as noted. And agreed that propping the bike on the center stand further raised by a small black helps, too. The smaller mudguards on the newer V7s, Scrambler kit, and Stornello definitely help, as well as the Scrambler’s/Stornello’s one-side exhaust.
After switching out the big mudguard for the smaller Aluminum one and installing a one-sided high exhaust, I actually enjoyed removing the rear wheel now.
It may not be pretty, but utility-wise...
(https://i.ibb.co/KKGzQWq/D74-E94-B5-D88-E-47-CD-B28-C-C4-C8-F11-B7-BAE.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KKGzQWq)
(https://i.ibb.co/qDDsJFt/0-B6-B6-D94-E61-A-4-ED6-92-E8-A61-B8-E3-BEA71.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qDDsJFt)
-
While examining my V7 III rear wheel removal options, I saw the brake torque pin Huzo referred to. I wasn't familiar with this design but after Huzo cited it I went to GPM and looked at a V85. Very different of course but principle was the same. I think for a V7 III Stone with a centerstand the procedure would be: run a tie strap from front wheel to centerstand so your motorcycle doesn't accidentally fall over; remove left muffler; loosen axle clamp bolts; remove torque pin; place block under rear tire for support; partially remove axle bolt leaving the rear wheel supported in the final drive; completely remove axle capturing the complete brake assembly and move it out of the way without hanging from brake line (put wood spacers between brake pads to keep them separate); remove block under wheel; remove wheel (and tire). I'll give this a try later this week. I always take just my wheels to the tire guy rather than the motorcycle so I need the practice.
-
While examining my V7 III rear wheel removal options, I saw the brake torque pin Huzo referred to. I wasn't familiar with this design but after Huzo cited it I went to GPM and looked at a V85. Very different of course but principle was the same. I think for a V7 III Stone with a centerstand the procedure would be: run a tie strap from front wheel to centerstand so your motorcycle doesn't accidentally fall over; remove left muffler; loosen axle clamp bolts; remove torque pin; place block under rear tire for support; partially remove axle bolt leaving the rear wheel supported in the final drive; completely remove axle capturing the complete brake assembly and move it out of the way without hanging from brake line (put wood spacers between brake pads to keep them separate); remove block under wheel; remove wheel (and tire). I'll give this a try later this week. I always take just my wheels to the tire guy rather than the motorcycle so I need the practice.
Don't forget you need enough room to clear the cush drive rubbers between the final drive and wheel. Oh and to make sure they stay in place upon assembly/installation.