Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: kballowe on October 23, 2020, 03:33:47 PM
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Does anyone else use a Dremel tool and a cutoff wheel to cut windshields ? I've been doing it that way for years and it works well. A little cut at a time, then move - trying not to melt too much. Dress the edge with progressively finer sandpaper.
This one is acrylic, but we've cut Lexan, also.
What do you use ?
(https://i.ibb.co/hZc0rG6/IMG-20201023-150805-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hZc0rG6)
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When fitting replacement airplane plexiglass windshields, I used a muffler cutter with the guard removed. Basically just a large Dremel. Just take care to just make many shallow passes the full length of the cut and spend some time polishing the edges first with a file to take the burrs off and then several grades of sandpaper to end up perfectly smooth and shiny.
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I used a saber saw, put tape over plastic and drew my line on that.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/DR-650/i-CZHWTJG/0/c96516fe/XL/IMG_2038-XL.jpg) (https://fotoguzzi.smugmug.com/DR-650/i-CZHWTJG/A)
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Does anyone else use a Dremel tool and a cutoff wheel to cut windshields ? I've been doing it that way for years and it works well. A little cut at a time, then move - trying not to melt too much. Dress the edge with progressively finer sandpaper.
This one is acrylic, but we've cut Lexan, also.
What do you use ?
(https://i.ibb.co/hZc0rG6/IMG-20201023-150805-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hZc0rG6)
I have and do. I use one of their course cutting wheels, at a medium to low speed, cover the piece being cut with 2-3 layers of painters tape, mark and cut. Most important is to take your time and go slow. I modified an old large windshield from my Norge, and cut a relief in the bottom to match the headlight on the Stornello. Cut was fairly clean and I finished off with 150 then 300 grit sand paper.
(https://i.ibb.co/vmLg97t/IMG-20200211-181034228.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vmLg97t)
(https://i.ibb.co/jDVVfRs/IMG-20200211-181458074.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jDVVfRs)
(https://i.ibb.co/Xs3hhfR/IMG-20200211-182159985.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Xs3hhfR)
(https://i.ibb.co/XYmn3DJ/IMG-20200211-194601231.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XYmn3DJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/vcwZfXf/IMG-20200211-194614367.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vcwZfXf)
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I used a saber saw, put tape over plastic and drew my line on that.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/DR-650/i-CZHWTJG/0/c96516fe/XL/IMG_2038-XL.jpg) (https://fotoguzzi.smugmug.com/DR-650/i-CZHWTJG/A)
Ditto! :thumb:
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Exactly, Foto! I have found that a fine tooth metal cutting blade works the best.
Be well, Stay well,
DougG
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To polish the edge after cutting, use sandpaper to start with, then a sharp knife held at right angles to the edge of the plastic and drag it. This will leave a good shiney surface.
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This looks like surgery on PF3?
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Has anyone here tried using a jig saw , and if so what blade ? Thanks , Peter
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Has anyone here tried using a jig saw , and if so what blade ? Thanks , Peter
Search results of jig saw and saber saw:
The terms saber saw and jigsaw were essentially used interchangeably from the 1940’s all the way up through about the 1980’s. Thus, you still hear plenty of ‘older generations’ referring to contemporary jigsaws as saber saws. For all extensive purposes, there’s no difference between the two. With the introduction and popularity of the reciprocating saw (sawzall) though, the term saber saw is no longer being used at all, and will probably be obsolete in a decade or so. Like we said, to our knowledge no one is currently manufacturing anything called a saber saw.
As for windshield cutting, I apply painters tape, first pass with a Dremel small cutting wheel to score a line, then use the jig saw for the final cut following the score line. Sanding block to smooth and polish with progressively finer paper.
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Jeeeze.. you guys are killin me. Use a fine blade on a band saw with a (ahem) pecker installed to allow you to support the plastic, After the cut is made, use a sanding disc on a die grinder to smooth it up, then take a propane torch, and let the tip of the flame lick the edge as you move it over it to make it smooth and polished. Takes maybe 15 minutes. I detailed the whole thing on the Lario rehab thread that photoblockit nuked. :evil: They can rot in hell..
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This looks like surgery on PF3?
Yes, Sir !
(https://i.ibb.co/YTWn1mh/IMG-20201023-175228-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YTWn1mh)
(https://i.ibb.co/602k4TY/IMG-20201023-175104-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/602k4TY)
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I used a saber saw, put tape over plastic and drew my line on that.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/DR-650/i-CZHWTJG/0/c96516fe/XL/IMG_2038-XL.jpg) (https://fotoguzzi.smugmug.com/DR-650/i-CZHWTJG/A)
I've also done it a couple of times using a variable speed saber saw with a fine tooth blade. Like you, I taped it off and drew it out, then sanded the edges. You couldnt even tell it was cut when finished.
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Has anyone here tried using a jig saw , and if so what blade ? Thanks , Peter
Plastic cutting blade here.
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Ditto on the fine blade jig saw blade with the windshield taped off. I just get within an 1/8" or so of the line, then I hit it with a belt sander loaded with 80 grit. That lets me get right on the line I drew, and get a well formed curve.
Then, the tape comes off, and I hand sand and round the edge with progressively finer grits.
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Along this line I would like some thoughts. Traded my old ATV for another. On the first ATV I put a universal ATV windscreen on, these however are made out of a very soft and flexible plastic. I have mounted the old screen on my new ATV which went fine except the gear shift lever is higher up on the new one and interferes with left turns. Want to cut a hole to allow the shift handle to pass through. Anything different cutting this soft stuff?
GliderJohn
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Yes, Sir !
(https://i.ibb.co/YTWn1mh/IMG-20201023-175228-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YTWn1mh)
(https://i.ibb.co/602k4TY/IMG-20201023-175104-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/602k4TY)
Back to the issue of what PF3 fits which Guzzi. I hope this wasn't the one (Honda Shadow 750) that was supposed to fit?
Just curious if instead of sawing, could a heat gun be used to make the required modifications?
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For all extensive purposes, there’s no difference between the two.
The sabre saw is a hand-held powered reciprocating saw. It is similar to, but larger than, a jigsaw. The sabre saw uses a toothed blade, chiefly to cut through wood and other soft materials. The lack of a large sole plate, which a jigsaw possesses, significantly reduces the controllability of the sabre saw. Wikipedia
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Exactly, Foto! I have found that a fine tooth metal cutting blade works the best.
Be well, Stay well,
DougG
Yeppers!
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https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/jigsaws-and-sabre-saws-the-difference-3536880#:~:text=The%20terms%20jigsaw%20and%20sabre,They're%20the%20same%20tool.
"The terms jigsaw and sabre saw seem to be used interchangeably in the marketplace. And while different tool manufacturers have marketed their saws under both names, there's no recognized difference between a jigsaw and a sabre saw. They're the same tool. A quick look at the history of this handy portable saw reveals why there were two names, to begin with."
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In my world a jig saw has a fixed position and base plate. The saber saw is portable with no base to put under the piece being cut.
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I prep the surface like fotoguzzi does, but use this tool
(https://i.ibb.co/RCgdcx5/Screen-Shot-2020-10-24-at-9-55-31-AM.png) (https://ibb.co/dQfxDdh)
So far so good
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Hi all, 10-24-20
To clarify...I have cut a few cycle windshields in my time. Put blue tape on both inside and outside of the windshield, use a scribe to mark the cut line, I use a variable speed hacksaw and a fine metal blade to make the actual cut. I do not use a sawzall (saber saw). A variable speed hacksaw is much more precise and generally easier to manage while cutting.
I do not mean to get into the great saber saw/hacksaw debate...I'm only defining the terms as I use them.
thanks and Be well,
DougG
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I've always been a bit wary, using a jigsaw on an expensive windshield, worried that it might get in a bind and crack. Have used a band saw on some of the easier cutting....i.e. where ya don't have to spin the whole windshield around.
However, I've had good luck with a jigsaw and a "metal" blade, cutting that 0.20" acrylic from the home improvement stores. Maybe one of these days, I'll try that on an actual windshield.
(https://i.ibb.co/J7CpQj9/jigsaw-and-plastic.jpg) (https://ibb.co/J7CpQj9)
geojson polygon (https://geojsonlint.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/zbnPydn/IMG-20200707-194057-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zbnPydn)
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Handsome work K. Did you make the deflectors too?
Be well, stay well,
DougG
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I've used a rototool (Large version of the Dremel) . Tape both sides of windshield and mark cutting line with a Sharpie. If working on a bike-mounted screen, a dropcloth or shower curtain will catch the cutting debris.
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Handsome work K. Did you make the deflectors too?
Be well, stay well,
DougG
Yep. Acrylic from Lowe's. ❤️
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Hi K,
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Hi K, 10-24-20
Nicely done sir!
Be well, Stay well,
DougG
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Jigsaw with a wood panel blade after taping both sides. not too aggressive that way Then a big coarse flat file followed up with a sanding block.
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I used a metal cutting bandsaw to get it close then the final shape on a belt sander. I rounded the edges a little with sandpaper when done and didn't bother polishing the edge because it matched the stock cut pretty well right off the sander.
Obviously the screen wasn't on the bike at the time...
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I just cut down my Airflow windshield on the EV and I went with the Dremel with the hole cutting attachment and a straight edge (yard stick) clamped to the windshield. Worked great.
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I use a grinder with a wafer metal cutting wheel.
Finish the edges with a random orbital sander.
Sabre saws make me nervous about vibration and cracking.
So do jigsaws!
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That's what happen with my first attempt trying to cut wit a saber saw. Luckily I didn't cut off as much as I thought I needed and now it's just right. I'm looking over not through but still in calm air.