Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: gallazblue on March 31, 2021, 01:37:21 PM
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Hey everyone!
I’m going to change the seals of the final drive on my V50 III, last time I opened it, the locking tabs were loose, I’ve been advise to change them for Schnorr washers, do any of you know the size needed ? (M8/M10?)
Also, do you think it would be a good idea to change the screws as well ? Any of you know the size used ?
Thanks a lot I appreciate it !
Enzo
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There are 6 on ring bolts that have tabs 8mm, there are 6 on back cover and 6 on brake disc. There are 4 studs on swingarm to rear drive, all are 8mm That makes 22 if you put them on all.
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There are 6 on ring bolts that have tabs 8mm, there are 6 on back cover and 6 on brake disc. There are 4 studs on swingarm to rear drive, all are 8mm That makes 22 if you put them on all.
That’s the information I was looking for, thanks!
Would you recommend to change ones in particular, I had in mind to replace the locking tabs by schnorrs washers, but I can add them to the 22 of them, if that can improve with sealing
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On my 1980 V50 II I replaced the rear drive locking tabs with schnoor washers five years ago. It was a rather simple and easy operation, if my memory serves. The rear drive has been trouble-free since, so I assess that it was a useful, worthwhile mod.
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I just put 4 on the 6mm bolts that hold the rocker shaft in place, they had star washers before and two fell out.
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On my 1980 V50 II I replaced the rear drive locking tabs with schnoor washers five years ago. It was a rather simple and easy operation, if my memory serves. The rear drive has been trouble-free since, so I assess that it was a useful, worthwhile mod.
Ok great! Nice to hear it won’t be an hassle.
Do you remember by any chance the tightening torque used on those screws ?
Thanks !
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I just put 4 on the 6mm bolts that hold the rocker shaft in place, they had star washers before and two fell out.
Ok perfect, thanks for all the info.
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Have you removed the hardened plate that was covered in the service bulletin?
I did a tutorial on the small block rear drive mod many years ago, but it still needs to be done if you haven't done it. A quick search finds this on the old small blocks, too..
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=89034.60
More here with a picture of the mod getting oil to the front bearings..
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=99910.0
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Ok great! Nice to hear it won’t be an hassle.
Do you remember by any chance the tightening torque used on those screws ?
Thanks !
Greg Bender has a guide for old loops but I think you could probably use it for almost any Guzzi, just find an equivalent bolt. https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_torque_specifications.html
Note the rocker shaft is quite low 4.2 - 5.7 because the bolt only goes a few threads into the shaft (or it would block the oilway, thanks to Charlie for researching that for me)
It looks like a normal setting for 6mm bolt is 7
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Have you removed the hardened plate that was covered in the service bulletin?
I did a tutorial on the small block rear drive mod many years ago, but it still needs to be done if you haven't done it. A quick search finds this on the old small blocks, too..
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=89034.60
More here with a picture of the mod getting oil to the front bearings..
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=99910.0
Hello Chuck,
-Have you removed the hardened plate-, are we talking about the plates under the crown wheel bolts? Or I may be missing something.
About the mod, I've been thinking about it as I'm going to change the gaskets/washers, I'm just a bit worried about getting the right angle, but it seems like a worthy mod.
Question :
"The plates need to be removed, and Schnorr washers installed under the bolts. It'll take a puller to do this."
I don't get this part, do I need a puller to take off the plates? Or to install the washers? (sorry for the silly question, I'm trying to collect all the info I can get before starting)
I appreciate your help,
Enzo
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Greg Bender has a guide for old loops but I think you could probably use it for almost any Guzzi, just find an equivalent bolt. https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_torque_specifications.html
Note the rocker shaft is quite low 4.2 - 5.7 because the bolt only goes a few threads into the shaft (or it would block the oilway, thanks to Charlie for researching that for me)
It looks like a normal setting for 6mm bolt is 7
Ok noted.
Thank you for the link, it's going to be greatly useful!
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Here's one for your bike page 30 for rear drive torque
https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/V35V50V65_041983_Atelier(GB).pdf
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Hello Chuck,
-Have you removed the hardened plate-, are we talking about the plates under the crown wheel bolts? Or I may be missing something.
About the mod, I've been thinking about it as I'm going to change the gaskets/washers, I'm just a bit worried about getting the right angle, but it seems like a worthy mod.
Question :
"The plates need to be removed, and Schnorr washers installed under the bolts. It'll take a puller to do this."
I don't get this part, do I need a puller to take off the plates? Or to install the washers? (sorry for the silly question, I'm trying to collect all the info I can get before starting)
I appreciate your help,
Enzo
Yeah, you need a puller to remove the bearing so you can get the plate out.
I'm just a bit worried about getting the right angle,
It's not rocket science. Just eyeball it from the side and do the best you can. You are trying to get lube to the front bearing.. as in hand grenades, close is good enough. :smiley:
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Yeah, you need a puller to remove the bearing so you can get the plate out.It's not rocket science. Just eyeball it from the side and do the best you can. You are trying to get lube to the front bearing.. as in hand grenades, close is good enough. :smiley:
Ok great. I'll try it this week-end and let you know how it went, thanks for suggesting this mod!
-After that, the center shim can be rotated to form a pocket so the crown wheel will throw oil into it and make it's way to the front bearing. You'll need to open up a hole as the shim isn't symmetrical.-
Photos aren't up anymore, are we talking Q being rotated ?
Enzo
(https://i.ibb.co/nDvSqHS/Image3.png) (https://ibb.co/nDvSqHS)
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Uhh, from 11 years (!) ago.. :smiley:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/75d152a9ab6948d7/V50%20stuff%20015.JPG)
this is the center shim that needs to be rotated to make the pocket. From memory :rolleyes: this is the only hole that needs to be opened up..
Edit:
That is "I" on the drawing. there is a gasket on each side of it that need to be rotated, too, naturally.