Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: sdcr on May 16, 2021, 06:43:44 AM
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There is a California II for sale, that appears to be in fair shape from pics. Doubt it had regular maintenance. Has an open air box with foam filters.
What should I be looking out for....?
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I still got one. 1st year they were putting crappy button head hardware on them. I changed all of them, the head strips out. Some of the best Guzzi's out there, seen many with over 200K mi. Carbs wear out 1st. I have 32mm on mine with Malossi foam filters.
There is a few nice one out there right now.
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Steve,
Just sent you a pm....
John
I still got one. 1st year they were putting crappy button head hardware on them. I changed all of them, the head strips out. Some of the best Guzzi's out there, seen many with over 200K mi. Carbs wear out 1st. I have 32mm on mine with Malossi foam filters.
There is a few nice one out there right now.
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- oil lines should be replaced with stainless (originals will fail at the fittings)
- cam chain requires manual adjustment of the tnsioner; it's best to replace with a later Guzzi auto-tensioner (there are non-Guzzi alternatives that I have no experience with)
- clutch. a good number of Cal2s have a tranny-to-case alignment issue that causes premature wear on the inner hub and the fly wheel. This results in the clutch not disengaging when the lever is pulled in because of the taper wear on the teeth.
- exhaust cross-over will likely burn through at around 150,000 miles
- side stand: the bracket will crack. best to look closely.
Here is a summary of mine when it hit 300,000 miles
Engine
-piston/rings - original
-Crank/rods/bearings – all original
-Cylinders – original
-Valves - replaced once at around 100,000 miles
-valve train and cam shaft - original
-oil lines – replaced with stainless at 250,000 miles
-Cam chain - the original was replaced at 60,000 at which point I changed to the latest Guzzi auto-tensioner. Since then it's been replaced once for no particular reason except that it seemed a reasonable thing to do (the tensioner was left alone). I think that these things may actually last forever.
-Oil changed every 2,000 miles (conventional mineral).
Transmission
-Transmission - original
-Clutch - worst part of the bike. The original clutch lasted less than 5,000 miles (replaced under warranty). I get about 35,000 miles (sometimes more) before the splines are worn to a taper, and the clutch no longer releases. This problem seems more common to Cal2s than anything else. I've been using the deep spline since 1993; it's better, but doesn't end the problem.
-gaskets - sump pan set replaced twice (accidentally torn). Valve cover replaced at ~50,000 miles with sample set of orange silicone gaskets. Never replaced since. Base gaskets original, head gaskets replaced with new valves.
- gear oil replaced every 6,000 miles. Same moly mix always used in the tranny/rear end (Guzzi recommends this in the rear drive box, but not the transmission)
-windshield - I've always liked the OEM shield , but since two cracked out at around 100,000 each, I replaced it with a National Cycle shield. It works better, anyway
Exhaust
-exhaust - nothing wrong with the original except that it's impossible to remove the rear wheel without removing the left exhaust. Replaced ages ago with a set of Dunstall replicas, which can stay put when the wheel comes off.
-Exhaust cross-over - these things seem to burn up after180,000 miles.
Rear Drive Box
-Rear end box - wheel splines replaced at 200,000 miles, otherwise original
Drive shaft and coupling - original
U-joint - seems to be good for around 60,000 miles. After having the thing disintegrate along with the carrier bearing, I'm pretty conscientious about replacing the carrier bearing more often than the u-joint. The carrier bearing gets replaced with every clutch change (it's cheap).
- gear oil replaced every 6,000 miles. Same moly mix always used in the tranny/rear end.
Bodywork
-Seat - Original. Go figure; I love the stock seat!
-saddle bags and trunk – original, but I no long pack enough to need them.
Other
-Air induction - Got tired of messing with the airbox with each clutch change, so I changed to K&N. These cannot possibly be as good at filtering as the OEM filter, so I am careful to keep them well oiled.
-Throttle cables - replaced at 245,000 miles after the metal ends became a little sloppy. Otherwise they would seem to last forever.
-Speedometer - still works, but now reads about 15% too slow (I rely on an electronic bicycle unit)
-Tachometer - still works with original cable.
- rotor- replaced once
-Points - After dealing with a balky mechanical advance mechanism, I replaced the whole thing at 150,000 miles with a Lucas (!) Rita. Perfect order ever since.
-Brakes - original rotors, but they're clearly worn (but not warped).
-light bulbs - replaced one turn signal bulb, everything else is original.
-starter - rebuilt three times and then replaced by French unit. It's a pretty cheap thing to do.
-metal fatigue failures - side stand bracket, right-rear shock attachment bolt, horn brackets, nose-piece of starter.
-grips, replaced after the original waffle surface was worn smooth.
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Daniel,
Thanks. :thumb:
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I think they are attractive motorcycles! This one was for sale a couple of years ago. I was tempted but must draw the line somewhere.
(https://i.postimg.cc/hj1xqhxF/1984-Moto-Guzzi-Califfornia-II-Convert-1-X3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bDddxy3L)
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Buy it, it's cheap
Edit: Went for $1595
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Switches will melt if higher watt bulbs are used without relays. Plastic around bulb sockets can melt. Original bags crack around mounting points. Steering stop eventually migrates away from lower triple tree and can shave off the aluminum nubs that are supposed to contact the frame mounted stop. Easy fix by using a pry bar to bend the steel bracket forward, closer to the tree. Plastic alternator cover mounting holes will deform if tightened too much. Fork lug can break on the side that holds the large end of the axel if the pinch bolt is over tight. Should be done up just snug and using a torque wrench here is asking for trouble. Mufflers can fall apart internally. Sharply slap the end of the muffler and listen for rattle. Transmission may have the plastic caged bearings on the shafts that can fail if exposed to molybdenum additives. Besides what’s been mentioned that’s mostly it. Decent bikes that can go a couple hundred thousand miles . I like the waffle cone pattern grips that came on the bike, I put them on all my own bikes.
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Gentlemen,
I missed the bidding, but I’m in contact with the owner. Will update if/when I get it
Thank to all of you for the tips, tricks and sound advice. Terrific group on this forum.
John
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Lets see some pics when you get it ! The older I get, the more I like these bikes.
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Gentlemen,
I missed the bidding, but I’m in contact with the owner. Will update if/when I get it
Thank to all of you for the tips, tricks and sound advice. Terrific group on this forum.
John
Alot of times the bidder don't want it, don't respond, or whatever. Good luck. I still have all the stock stuff for mine. Long skunk hard seat, front forks, airbox. Even mufflers.
Hope you get it. There is one like new down here but seller want's good money for it, worth it, it's nice.
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Thanks Steve, I guess you saw the one In EBay? I might be look8ng for a skunk seat if I get it.
Nobody bid on it, even though it was starting at 1595. Still trying to get a hold of the seller.
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I had a 1983 model with the skunk seat....looked just like Dave's picture. Really a great highway bike at the time....not so much in town because it is pretty long legged. Eventually, I put it on consignment sales at Moto America in Lillington, NC which was also the home of the national importer. It sold pretty quickly for a fair price. I was back down there a month or two later and asked if the owner was happy. Emily told me he was happy....until it was stolen off the streets in Philadelphia. Always felt bad about that.