Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: ohiorider on May 31, 2021, 07:11:58 PM
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I've owned only two Guzzis ..... a 2008 1200 Sport and a 2012 GRiSO 8vSE. Both were CARC final drive bikes, meaning both of them could have their rear wheels removed by simply unscrewing 4 lug bolts that held the wheel to the final drive. Good stuff ..... similar to BMW.
I MIGHT be up for one more Guzzi ..... probably the V7 850cc model, but need some info on how simple or difficult rear wheel removal and replacement is compared to the single side swingarm CARC bikes. Combined with a center stand (or in the case of the GRiSO, the Becker Technik stand,) those were a piece of cake!
I'm currently riding a 2016 Triumph T120 chain drive bike. For me, wheel removal and replacement on this bike is a real PIA! Love the bike ..... hate doing the rear wheel removal and replacement!
Would appreciate any of your thoughts on rear wheel removal and replacement on the newer small block V7 bike. I know they're not single side swingarm bikes. So ...............??
Bob
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Rear wheel removal used to be a "piece of cake" on (older) small-blocks, but I find doing the same job on the new V7s a bit irritating. Not what I'd call "easy" by any means.
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I did mine the other day. It was a hassle but now that I have done it the next time will be a piece of cake, just a little time. Gluing the rubbers in helped a lot. Not tight just enough to hold them in place. Worked for me.
kk
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Have done the job twice on the same V7 . Basically it won't ever be as easy as a single sided swingarm or as difficult as a chain driven dual sided swingarm bike . As mentioned , sticking the cush drive rubbers in place makes the job much easier .
Dusty
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The V85 is easy if you don’t try to dodge the removal of the caliper mount, accomplished by undoing this
(https://i.ibb.co/yRnQDTP/69-AF2-D60-BD6-D-47-F3-856-F-F35-B5-AB41-CD9.png) (https://ibb.co/yRnQDTP)
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Could you elaborate a bit?
I have read the replies with interest since I will, at some point, need to do this. I see what others have said about the cush drive rubbers. Beyond that, is it the fender making it difficult? Looking at mine, which has shorter metal fenders, it looks as if I should be able to do this with just the center stand. Looking at it, it looks much like the 1100 Cali's.
To Bob's question: I'm guessing that most modern V7 variants would be similar, if not the same, as the V7 850.
John Henry
It mostly just comes down to there being little clearance between the wheel and swing arm, and the need to keep the cush drive rubbers in place as the wheel is mated to the rear. Not really a big deal, but makes it less than dead simple.
No problems with the full size fender on my MKI, however I do put the centerstand up on a block of wood for additional clearance, if I'm not using the lift with the drop out plate for the wheel.
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On the early small blocks, there was no need to remove the brake caliper, etc. Just knock out the axle..
<snapping suspenders> Some kid must have decided he could "improve" on that, and he can stay off my lawn.
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For me I would not put a lot of wright on easy removal of the rear tire into the decision of what bike to get. With the cast wheels flats can be plugged without tire removal. Otherwise you will only need to do it when you change a tire. How often will that be? If you really rack up the miles it could be twice a year. :weiner:
I would consider how much you will enjoy riding the bike as a high priority and the ease of changing rear tires quite a bit down on the list. If youy really do not want to do it you could always take it to a shop. :evil: Just my 2 cents and worth about as much. ;)
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I bought a V7 Special with spoked wheels. After removing/replacing the rear wheel a couple of times, I spent $500 via eBay on a pair of cast wheels so I could plug a puncture. There was no way in the world that I could repair a rear (tubed) flat tire on my bike on the roadside by myself...and I have a centerstand. Spoked-wheel V7s are for urban riders whose toolkit is a cellphone. Sealing those wheels is not cheap if someone like Woody's Wheelworks does it - and no one knows how permanent the seal is.
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It is a real pain to remove and replace the rear tire on a modern small block. I don’t consider it feasible on the road. If I can’t patch it, it’s time to call a wrecker.
The trick when doing this at home is to elevate the back end about 18 inches off the ground while keeping the back end level. Give yourself plenty of clearance to bring the wheel up and in since there’s not much room to try to come in at an angle with limited clearance.
Glue the dampeners in. Grease them and the fingers on the rear drive so they mate together easily. Remove rear brake caliper and left shock absorber. You may want to deflate the tire too. Consider having the right size dowel in hand as a false axle to help keep everything aligned if you are doing this by yourself.
Like anything it gets easier with practice but I don’t think it will ever be a breeze like unbolting the wheel from a single sided swingarm.
On the other hand, since it won’t be a snap, you might as well service the rear brake caliper while you are there. Grease the drive splines. Grease the rear clutch actuator arm.
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On the early small blocks, there was no need to remove the brake caliper, etc. Just knock out the axle..
<snapping suspenders> Some kid must have decided he could "improve" on that, and he can stay off my lawn.
This ^^^!
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Assuming the new V7 850 has the same rubber isolators as the other V7, as others have said, they are the only hassle. I used shoe glue to fix them in place and silicone caliper grease to help slide over the tangs on the drive.
I use bungy cables to temporarily hold the tire on the rear differential while replacing the rear caliper and re-inserting the axle.
Have done the R&R twice. First time had some 'learning curve' issues, second time was a breeze. No where as easy as the CARC, but not that bad IMO.
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The solution with the re-assembly is simple:
- put the axle into the swing arm from the WRONG direction (i.e the drive side)
- push the axle in far enough so it just clears the drive tangs
- lift the wheel, WITHOUT the rubbers, up to the right height
- push the axle through the wheel the wrong way and into the LH swing arm
- the wheel is now perfectly aligned with the centre of the drive and there is a gap between the wheel and the drive
- insert the rubbers with your hand between the drive and the wheel
- slide the wheel into engagement with the drive
- remove the axle and insert it the right way with the caliper bracket, spacer. etc
Gonzo
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I just preformed this task for the first time on my V7(3),,
when i do it again, I will remove the rear fender, to keep from having the raise the bike so high.
Not the easiest thing to do as I could find little area to jack up on.. pipes, evap can, oil pan, and various other bit limit jacking points....
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GonzoB makes sense! When you've seen those shock absorber rubbers fall out five or six times, try his method. I'll bet that's how they do it in Mandello!
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The solution with the re-assembly is simple:
- put the axle into the swing arm from the WRONG direction (i.e the drive side)
- push the axle in far enough so it just clears the drive tangs
- lift the wheel, WITHOUT the rubbers, up to the right height
- push the axle through the wheel the wrong way and into the LH swing arm
- the wheel is now perfectly aligned with the centre of the drive and there is a gap between the wheel and the drive
- insert the rubbers with your hand between the drive and the wheel
- slide the wheel into engagement with the drive
- remove the axle and insert it the right way with the caliper bracket, spacer. etc
Gonzo
I finally figured out about inserting the axle backwards the third time I did one. Makes things easier, but still not as easy as the older small-blocks.
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Cherry picker engine hoist. Way easier. :thumb:
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If you don’t have a fancy lift or nice shop equipment, a regular house ladder and two ratchet straps work great. Put the ladder over the bike about midway. Remove seat. Add a ratchet strap to each side rail near the battery and attach to a rung on the ladder. Slowly and evenly ratchet up the back of the bike, leaving the front wheel on the ground.
You can get a LOT of clearance this way and the bike is held securely.
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Personally, I'm all for them (swing arms). The alternative is not very good.
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There is more to CARC than being single sided. It is a derivative of the Magni patented parallelogrammo swingarm for shaft drive motorcycles. Improving the riding experience greatly.
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And there's me getting slightly peeved, each time I have to remove the Caliper on my Stelvio, to remove the rear Wheel . . . :grin: