Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: moto on July 22, 2021, 03:09:46 PM
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For the last 20 years I've never separated the right-side downpipe from the crossover on my T3. They were stuck when I bought it. Now I have a reason to separate them.
Soaking with PV PB Blaster and tugging isn't working. What's the secret?
Moto
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Heat, and possibly a lot of it, shifts most things after a couple of cycles
Be aware of fuel, cables and anything else that might burst into flames
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Heat, penetrating fluid of your choice, lots of foul language and of course... a BFH. :wink: Good luck...
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Hacksaw... they probably won't work too good after tho.
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:popcorn: I have a pair of Milich Special rusty Bubs on the AeroLario. I'd really like to get them apart to repack them, but so far no joy.
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It will take a good deal of finesse so as to not damage the pipe, but you can try the two hammer method. Using a small ball pein as backup against the pipe, strike the pipe gently on the opposite side that your holding the first hammer against. Working your way around the pipe , the idea is to just stretch the metal and loosen the corrosion . Easy does it .
Paul B :boozing:
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I removed the entire exhaust system in one piece which made all of the methods described here much easier.
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A good soak in aerokroil. Then get a small block of wood and a rivet gun or air chisel with a flat tool or flush rivet set with an air reducer valve. Put the wood against the end of the pipe or muffler. Gently drive (with the rivet gun) the pipe in the opposite (on) direction you want it to go. This breaks (hopefully) the rust adhesion. Squirt more spray into the seam and let it soak. Repeat the process. Use a small hard piece of wood to drive it back where it was. After it is semi loose, get a shop towel and a pipe wrench to work the pipe back and forth til you can drive it off with the wooden chisel.
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1. Order that new set of pipes you’ve always wanted.
2. Remove the old set in one piece after hanging it up on the center stand and front wheel for 40 minutes and snapping off at least one exhaust port stud.
3. Put the old set in the garage where you will trip over it for two years before taking it to the town recycling pile.
4. Rebuild the entire motorcycle around the new shiny pipes.
5. Post every step of the process.
6. Spend six months sorting the bike.
7. See an interesting wreck in someone’s garage, buy it for a song and sell the perfectly restored Guzzi for 60% of the parts cost.
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removing as one piece is your best bet. how bad are they?
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Someone mentioned Kroil penetrating oil and that is what I use on guns, great stuff! Let that soak in for a couple days and then hit the are with a rubber mallet a few times and then try. If that doesn't work use heat and if that doesn't work you are on your own. Good luck!
Scott
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Heat, penetrating fluid of your choice, lots of foul language and of course... a BFH. :wink: Good luck...
yep! It pays to study at the feet of the masters!!!!
and whatever you do, don't put a "g" on the end of your favorite curse words.
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For the last 20 years I've never separated the right-side downpipe from the crossover on my T3. They were stuck when I bought it. Now I have a reason to separate them.
Soaking with PV Blaster and tugging isn't working. What's the secret?
Moto
What you need is PB Blaster; much stronger than PV. :evil:
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Hmm. Thanks to several for sincere suggestions. The methods now on the table, alone or in combination, are:
1) soak
2) heat
3) the two hammer method (Paul B, aka RinkRat II)
4) chisel from the end of the outside pipe, after first hammering the joint together (Shorty)
5) relocate the clamp to below the joint and hammer on it instead of the pipe end
6) ratchet strap and a golf cart, or "how to remove a stuck exhaust Grumman style"
I found (5) on Youtube, being performed on a Ford car exhaust: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBW411D8UUM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBW411D8UUM).
Number (6) is here, performed on an airplane: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8RK9icStf4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8RK9icStf4). It basically adds a ratchet strap for pulling after (1) and (2).
Two things that differentiate my T3 exhaust from the Ford and Grumman examples is the longer overlap of the joint, about 1 1/2 inch, and twenty years of bonding.
The two hammer method is indeed "a thing": I found it used to remove tie rod ends and to get nuts off of bolts (on the internet). I am impressed by the specificity of Paul B's advice, in the use of a small ball peen hammer on one side and "striking gently" on the other. Paul, have you successfully used this method on exhaust pipes? I've been trying, but no luck so far. I'll keep trying. I REALLY like the "Easy does it" admonition at the end of your post. That's my very favorite level of effort!
To clarify, I'm not particularly desperate here. The crossover-exhaust header combination is off the bike, and I don't plan to reuse either part, though I might pass one or both downstream to someone in greater need. It's a mixture of pride and OCD for me to separate them. The first is a sin and the second a disease. Maybe I'll snap out of it.
Thanks, all.
Moto
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My advice is to heat it cherry red then cool it rapidly with a water hose, it will probably slip apart then, if not repeat until it does. Your finish may not survive if that matters.. Learned this at the feet of a master, works with nuts and bolts as well. I've told many people about this, few believers. Those who have witnessed it are believers. First time I saw it it was a bleeder in a steel caliper, after heating and cooling it broke loose with very little pressure from a wrench and unscrewed with my fingers, simply amazing, like magic and I ain't no magician!
Brian
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We used PB Blaster on pee soaked wheelchair bolts when I was in rehab equipment repair. That shit WORKS! We called it panther piss :grin:
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My advice is to heat it cherry red ................
Brian
First time I saw it done was by the shipyard Shipwright Foreman where I first worked
We had a RFA ship come in for a refit, and they couldn't secure the hatch properly because one of the 1 inch securing bolts was seized
Oxy/Propane to bright cherry red and an air chisel got normal service back sharpish
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Moto, as a millwright for 35 years I've used that technique for just about every type of stuck apparatus man made. The level of force is dependent on the ability of access and if your trying to re use the part. I've also used the cherry red method, but that will change the appearance of the item. Keep soaking too!
Paul B :boozing:
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heat will allways work just a matter of how much. Matt
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Alternate between hot and cold with CRC Freeze-Off super penetrant
https://www.autozone.com/greases-and-gear-oil/multi-purpose-anti-rust-lube/p/crc-freeze-off-super-penetrant/898352_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:GEN:71700000069889792&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0emHBhC1ARIsAL1QGNe-V1ajoQ0QRbzV-S8R7TlY242ssRV2VWc2bplBS00l3Jy4m8169ysaAmwyEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
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After disassembly and cleaning or installing new exhaust components, coat mating surfaces {sliding fits,flanges & gaskets} with Nickel Anti seize . Don't use copper antiseize, it can corrode stainless steel and doesn't have the high temp quality.
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After disassembly and cleaning or installing new exhaust components, coat mating surfaces {sliding fits,flanges & gaskets} with Nickel Anti seize . Don't use copper antiseize, it can corrode stainless steel and doesn't have the high temp quality.
Thanks. I'll be using chromed exhaust parts, not stainless. Is nickel best for that? What about molybdenum disulfide?
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Permatex black silicone adhesive sealant also seems to work well.
Another use for anti sieze...HD specifies it for pivot points on the shifter and brakes pedals. Go figure?
Tom
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Google "Anti-Seize". The companies, A.S.T. Industries; CRC Industries; Bostik, have detailed explanations of Where, When, Why to use grease, lubricants, anti-seize. My experience with nickel anti-seize goes back sixty years using it on aircraft and oceanographic instrumentation and machinery. It doesn't react with dissimilar metals under extreme heat or extended periods exposed to salt water
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Wait, there’s more! Nickel anti-sneeze color matches with the exhaust and aluminum
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When using the method I described it is the rapid water cooling that does the work.
Brian
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When using the method I described it is the rapid water cooling that does the work.
Brian
Yep,
The rapid temp change can help break the bond that corrosion has made