Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Gerry on August 23, 2021, 01:06:21 PM
-
Hi all,
Speedo, odometer stopped working and Red Triangle with service text on the LCD screen, and I think it is the front sensor so I ordered a new one from Harper's.
Do i need to remove the tank to get at the plug end of the cable? I have removed the right side mid and lower fairing but that just revealed where the cable dissapears under the tank.
Can anyone describe where the end of that cable plugs into the loom?
Thanks!
Gerry
-
I can't tell you where that plugs in but do seal your new sensor where the cable exits the sensor body with a dab of silicone sealant.
These sensors are very simple reluctance sensors but when water wicks into the interior they will be rendered useless.
-
If it's the same as my old 05 B11 non ABS bike if memory serves you should be able to finagle it out by un bolting the tank and lifting it a bit until you can see the plug
It's a 3 pin wide flat plug
Roy's right water in the sensor can cause a whole world of pain!
-
Thanks Roy and Tris
Gerry
-
I wasn’t able to change mine with tank on. Thought I could cut the old wire and pull it through but zip ties to tight. Did yours just quit working or did you have the wheel off
-
I wasn’t able to change mine with tank on. Thought I could cut the old wire and pull it through but zip ties to tight. Did yours just quit working or did you have the wheel off
Sorry for the late response, I lifted the tank high enough to see that the wire disappears under the air box... damn!
Too hot and humid in the shop to work on her now but it looks like a major operation to get to the plug.
It quit working.
Thanks for the response.
-
Sorry for the late response, I lifted the tank high enough to see that the wire disappears under the air box... damn!
Too hot and humid in the shop to work on her now but it looks like a major operation to get to the plug.
It quit working.
Thanks for the response.
They are such a simple sensor, just a tiny magnet with a coil of fine wire wound over the top, if you are able to find the plug you should be able to read a circuit across the pins, a few hundred Ohms I think. The sensor works by projecting a magnetic field, as the target passes through the field it sets up an AC signal in the coil
What happens to them is water wicks in around the cable and shorts the coil connections out or it can corrode the wires off,
It might be worth removing the sensor and warming it up for a few days to drive the moisture back out but if its open circuit don't even bother.
Seal around the cable entry area with a silicon sealant, this will prevent moisture entering between the cable and the sensor body.
-
Mine somehow got damaged when new tires installed. Checking it with multi meter had good readings, same as rear and new replacement. Are you having trouble getting a new one.
-
I replaced both F/R sensors on my '08 Norge and I couldn't see other way to access front sensor than removing tank. Perhaps a precocious and mechanically-adept child? :grin:
When removing the tank, I use a small wooden 2X4 block to support the unbolted end of the tank so both hands are free to manipulate the fuel line connection.
The parts were readily available from AF1 Racing in Austin, TX.
-
Should learn to get the tank off, it’s 10 minutes once you’ve done it a couple of times.
You can give it a new oil pressure switch while the airbox is off and doing the inner plugs is dead easy,
It’s worth it.
-
They are such a simple sensor, just a tiny magnet with a coil of fine wire wound over the top, if you are able to find the plug you should be able to read a circuit across the pins, a few hundred Ohms I think. The sensor works by projecting a magnetic field, as the target passes through the field it sets up an AC signal in the coil
What happens to them is water wicks in around the cable and shorts the coil connections out or it can corrode the wires off,
It might be worth removing the sensor and warming it up for a few days to drive the moisture back out but if its open circuit don't even bother.
Seal around the cable entry area with a silicon sealant, this will prevent moisture entering between the cable and the sensor body.
Thanks Roy,
yes, I'm definitely going to test it before I bother removing the cable assembly from the bike.
And I am going to seal the new one for sure, thanks for the advice.
Mine somehow got damaged when new tires installed. Checking it with multi meter had good readings, same as rear and new replacement. Are you having trouble getting a new one.
I got a new front one from Harper's Moto Guzzi so I'm good there. So you're saying that testing it with a multi-meter does not show a failed sensor? I found a forum post on how to test the sensors, have to find it again but it seems like it came up in a quick google search. I'll have to review it. Thanks!
I replaced both F/R sensors on my '08 Norge and I couldn't see other way to access front sensor than removing tank. Perhaps a precocious and mechanically-adept child? :grin:
When removing the tank, I use a small wooden 2X4 block to support the unbolted end of the tank so both hands are free to manipulate the fuel line connection.
The parts were readily available from AF1 Racing in Austin, TX.
Thanks for the advice on supporting the tank whilst fighting the fuel line Q-release fittings, I have done that before when I replaced the fuel filter. I am probably going to order a rear to have on hand and at the time I ordered the front sensor from Todd he did not have a rear one in stock so I'll give AF1 a try if Todd doesn't have any rear sensor.
Should learn to get the tank off, it’s 10 minutes once you’ve done it a couple of times.
You can give it a new oil pressure switch while the air-box is off and doing the inner plugs is dead easy,
It’s worth it.
Thanks Huzo, yes, I have taken the tank of a couple of times so it's no worry, I just hate messing with it LOL
And wouldn't you know that I just filled the tank before the speedo failed.
Also thanks for the suggestion to replace the spark plugs, good idea maybe I'll do the pressure switch too.
Thanks again for all the help,
Gerry
-
A thinwall socket is mighty handy for removal/installation of the inner plugs. If the old ones don't look too bad, I throw one under the seat (where the evap canister used to live) for an emergency backup spare. Same thing with the alternator belt: the old one looked good when I replaced it at recommended service interval, so I kept the old one and it lives in the tank bag just in case :wink:
-
I think the multi meter test works depending on what’s wrong. If it’s an open circuit yes. I’m guessing the magnet on mine got knocked around and the windings still checked ok. I’m thinking windings aren’t supposed to come into contact with magnet but that’s based on my experience with guitar pickups and a bad memory. Either way my old read the same as the new and when I replaced it everything worked again