Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: mtiberio on September 22, 2021, 03:31:20 PM
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Tell me I don't have to unbolt the caliper from the caliper hanger?
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At least you don't have an early Spot. :grin: :boozing:
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I was surprised to find out that you have to remove the battery and battery tray to replace the front rubber battery strap.. (try and say that 3 times really fast)
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IIRC only one bolt and loosen the other one.
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IIRC only one bolt and loosen the other one.
UGH
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Might be different on the Le Mans 4, but on my 1983 Le Mans III, I recall just separating the carrier, from the swing arm pin, and suspending it.
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IIRC only one bolt and loosen the other one.
That will clear the caliper from disc & then line up carrier w/large cut-out on disc like the rest. I use the allens w/kind of a ball on end.
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Jeez, Mike, I would have thought you would have done this at least a few dozen times over the decades! :evil:
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He has a pit crew. :shocked: :shocked: :shocked: :grin:
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Never have I pulled a rear wheel on a LM4. First time I have ever owned one. Had a LM3, which is same as T-3 tech.
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Shouldn't be that hard. Just make sure the rear of the bike is higher for clearance to take the wheel & tire out. 2x6 under the center stand then a small 2x4 under each foot. No need for a lift but if you have one, even better.
I usually remove the caliper off the bracket. Shouldn't be that hard. :thumb:
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I know of several guys who take the rear drive off their Tontis when they take the wheel off.
Then it's a trivial matter to grease the drive shaft splines at the same time.
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If it’s the same as a wire wheeled Tonti, I do unbolt the caliper and zip tie it up to the frame. The removable panel in the cheap lift tables is handy. +1 on unbolting the bevel box. It gives you a chance to grease the drive shaft as well.
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IMO some rear wheels as in Cali3/ 1100, EV and, as Mike reports the LM4 , it may just be easier to separate the caliper from the bracket than to try finagling the wheel off with bot items bolted to each other. YMMV
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My Lemans 4 is undergoing a race bike conversion (land speed racer). There is no fender behind the saddle/frame. Pulling the wheel straight back is no issue. I regularly pull the rear drives to change gearing, etc, so grease is not an issue. Currently I'm running a 110/90-18 rear tire (narrower/smaller diameter than the stock 130/80) on the 3" rear rim. Getting it out is not an issue. I also run short shocks to lower the bike, so the tire is already pretty high in the air when on the center stand (which will be removed for racing). Of course removing the 2 bolts holding the caliper on is easy, I just prefer to be able to pull the rear wheel with only having to take off the axle nut and loosening the pinch. Spoiled I guess...
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My Lemans 4 is undergoing a race bike conversion (land speed racer). There is no fender behind the saddle/frame. Pulling the wheel straight back is no issue. I regularly pull the rear drives to change gearing, etc, so grease is not an issue. Currently I'm running a 110/90-18 rear tire (narrower/smaller diameter than the stock 130/80) on the 3" rear rim. Getting it out is not an issue. I also run short shocks to lower the bike, so the tire is already pretty high in the air when on the center stand (which will be removed for racing). Of course removing the 2 bolts holding the caliper on is easy, I just prefer to be able to pull the rear wheel with only having to take off the axle nut and loosening the pinch. Spoiled I guess...
I used to like watching your races... :sad:
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I know of several guys who take the rear drive off their Tontis when they take the wheel off.
Then it's a trivial matter to grease the drive shaft splines at the same time.
:thumb: Yep, every rear tire change but not because of caliper or mount bracket interference with wheel removal, I just do it to grease splines.