Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Beowulf on October 07, 2021, 11:46:03 AM
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Honestly debated to post this at all. Had an interesting time over a week ago. Riding home from work and my bike completely stalled out in traffic while moving. Started up again and same thing. Got the bike over to the nearest gas station. Did the usual checks, enough gas(I'm a simple guy) that sort of thing. Worked my way down the usual suspects and phoned a friend pointed me in the direction of the kickstand sensor. Anyways found enough indications to determine it was the kickstand sensor most likely. Darn thing idled fine in Neutral soon as I popped in gear it would die and once and a while it would go a few feet hit a bump and boom no happy motor noises. Phoned a friend got home with the bike.
Called my dealer and guided by a very patient parts guy bypassed the switch to the kickstand. Went and rode around the island and no issues. Called back to the dealer to inform them of my success and am now awaiting a new switch. I have to send the old one back but they are covering it under warranty which I think is really decent of them.
In the meantime I have popped out the wires of the plastic connector and used electrical tape neatly holding them together. So far so good. I have also had the charcoal evap can conveniently "fall off". Noticeable improvement IMO. Other than that in the middle of selling one house and buying another and its been an epic month. Any thoughts or opinions if what i did bypassing the switch is good or bad idea(other than forgetting to put up the kickstand).
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I had that happen to a bike just as I pulled out of the driveway. In my case it was a connector under the side cover to the side stand switch that wasn't seated fully.
My Road Glide doesn't have a side stand switch and I somehow never forget to put it up, but on all of my other bikes I use the side stand switch to shut the bike off when I am parking somewhere. I find it easier to hold in the clutch and brake while doing this instead of popping in neutral so I can shut the bike off and then putting it back in gear so there is no chance of rolling forward.
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Thanks for posting up Beowulf, glad you've got it sorted and patched up enough to ride. I think it's only decent of MG to cover the replacement, glad that's no hassle.
What improvement did you notice when you removed the evap canister? Thanks.
Sarah
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Is is an actual electronic sensor, or a mechanical switch?
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Thanks for posting up Beowulf, glad you've got it sorted and patched up enough to ride. I think it's only decent of MG to cover the replacement, glad that's no hassle.
What improvement did you notice when you removed the evap canister? Thanks.
Sarah
What I noticed when removing the canister is no more groaning from the tank venting. Also my service stand fits better with nothing hanging in there.
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Mech Switch Chad, stuff not needed, lots of riders delete the thing. I been doing that for guys since G5's were new, converts too.
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I have been waiting for the one on my V7III to fail, when it does I will replace it with a reed switch hermetically sealed in plastic or a brass tube activated by a small magnet.
Here's the switch I added to my Eldorado front brake, (click to zoom), the magnet is glued to the lever.
(https://i.ibb.co/4Yjzf54/DSCN0789.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4Yjzf54)
The nice thing about modern bikes with an ECU, the interlock switches are only drawing milliamps, no significant current.
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Thanks, Beowulf. My bike had an obvious fueling hiccup at lower RPM's that disappeared entirely once I removed the canister, I was wondering if you'd experienced the same. From reading on the various forums and groups some '21's have the issues while others don't. Enjoy that bike, and be double certain to kick that kickstand before launching.
Sarah
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Yes I’m response to the hiccup it was particularly in lower rpms and now the canister is gone much improved. I will be extra cautious on the kickstand. Appreciate the replies
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Thanks :bike-037:
Sarah
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I have been waiting for the one on my V7III to fail, when it does I will replace it with a reed switch hermetically sealed in plastic or a brass tube activated by a small magnet.
Here's the switch I added to my Eldorado front brake, (click to zoom), the magnet is glued to the lever.
(https://i.ibb.co/4Yjzf54/DSCN0789.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4Yjzf54)
The nice thing about modern bikes with an ECU, the interlock switches are only drawing milliamps, no significant current.
Hey Kiwi Roy....I like your switch set up and if I get ambitious enough I might try adapting one to my Eldo side stand. I hate to admit to how many times I've taken off on the Eldo with the stand deployed and that stupid thing doesn't seem to retract on contact.
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Hey Kiwi Roy....I like your switch set up and if I get ambitious enough I might try adapting one to my Eldo side stand. I hate to admit to how many times I've taken off on the Eldo with the stand deployed and that stupid thing doesn't seem to retract on contact.
My Eldorado has the short prop stand, it doesn't do any harm if I leave it down, if a bike has the long lock in-place Police stand the consequence of riding off with it down might be more serious.
The reed switches I have are limited to 2 Amps, they will weld closed if you go much over that, I have LED lamps for the Blinkers, Stop/Tail so 2 Amps is adequate, you would need to use a relay to interrupt the ignition.