Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: MotoGuzzi750 on December 14, 2021, 11:58:51 PM
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Hi experts,
Cant believe I hooked up 2004 Breva 750 battery terminals to jumper cables wrong way today -- and now it starts but wont stay running!
Stupid me/too distracted, while trying to jump start the bike. It was running normal before this.
I was able to get it started using the jumper cable before few days before with no problems.
So I suspect the wrong terminals connection must have fried something somewhere.
The fuel light comes ON, even though there is enough fuel in tank.
I am thinking could the fuel pump blown away by the wrong battery terminal connections?
But then why would it even start? How do I check if fuel pump is working correctly?
I am suspecting fuel pump, because the engine starts, so it must be getting fuel, but it cannot sustain the fuel supply,
and the fuel light comes ON.
Where do I begin to sort this mess out?
I would appreciate any/all help on this.
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For the short time that it runs, does it respond to the throttle?
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When you turn the key On does the pump prime for a couple of seconds?
Why were you attempting to jumper the bike in the first place, was there something wrong or just a flat battery?
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_750_Breva.gif
We need to know if the revolution sensor (2) is working, you havent had that out have you?
The revolution sensor picks up a signal from the engine and the ECU turns On the Injection relay (12) which in turn powers up the injectors, coils and fuel pump.
The best thing you can do at this stage is monitor the relay with a small lamp, that will tell you an awful lot about what's going on. Wrap a small wire around the 87 pin of the relay and run it to a small lamp with the other side grounded.
When you turn the bike On you should see the light come on for a couple of seconds then go Off, it should come back On when the bike is cranking over to let you know the powers to all the vital parts.
If you could check that and get back to us.
BTW if you look at the relay (11) you will see it has a diode inside, thats called the safety diode, its there to prevent any damage if you accidentally put the battery in backwards. It won't let th relay close and put the wrong polarity onto the ECU.
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You havent had the tank off by any chance, did you re-connect the pump properly?
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Did you jump it from a car or a bike? A big jolt from a car could have fried the EI. Maybe pull and ground the plugs and check for spark.
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For the short time that it runs, does it respond to the throttle?
yes, it does respond to throttle for the short time it runs. Then cant keep running as i keep turning the throttle.
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When you turn the key On does the pump prime for a couple of seconds?
Why were you attempting to jumper the bike in the first place, was there something wrong or just a flat battery?
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_750_Breva.gif
We need to know if the revolution sensor (2) is working, you havent had that out have you?
The revolution sensor picks up a signal from the engine and the ECU turns On the Injection relay (12) which in turn powers up the injectors, coils and fuel pump.
The best thing you can do at this stage is monitor the relay with a small lamp, that will tell you an awful lot about what's going on. Wrap a small wire around the 87 pin of the relay and run it to a small lamp with the other side grounded.
When you turn the bike On you should see the light come on for a couple of seconds then go Off, it should come back On when the bike is cranking over to let you know the powers to all the vital parts.
If you could check that and get back to us.
BTW if you look at the relay (11) you will see it has a diode inside, thats called the safety diode, its there to prevent any damage if you accidentally put the battery in backwards. It won't let th relay close and put the wrong polarity onto the ECU.
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You havent had the tank off by any chance, did you re-connect the pump properly?
Yes, it was a flat battery. I ran it around the block before I parked it.
Q: How do I check if the pump primes for couple of seconds after turn ON the key?
SOmewhere I read that you need to listen to gas tank for whirring sound?
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Did you jump it from a car or a bike? A big jolt from a car could have fried the EI. Maybe pull and ground the plugs and check for spark.
Jumped it from car. Cant believe I didnt pay attention to polarity. My bad day :(
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When you turn the key On does the pump prime for a couple of seconds?
Why were you attempting to jumper the bike in the first place, was there something wrong or just a flat battery?
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_750_Breva.gif
We need to know if the revolution sensor (2) is working, you havent had that out have you?
The revolution sensor picks up a signal from the engine and the ECU turns On the Injection relay (12) which in turn powers up the injectors, coils and fuel pump.
The best thing you can do at this stage is monitor the relay with a small lamp, that will tell you an awful lot about what's going on. Wrap a small wire around the 87 pin of the relay and run it to a small lamp with the other side grounded.
When you turn the bike On you should see the light come on for a couple of seconds then go Off, it should come back On when the bike is cranking over to let you know the powers to all the vital parts.
If you could check that and get back to us.
BTW if you look at the relay (11) you will see it has a diode inside, thats called the safety diode, its there to prevent any damage if you accidentally put the battery in backwards. It won't let th relay close and put the wrong polarity onto the ECU.
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You havent had the tank off by any chance, did you re-connect the pump properly?
I feel somewhat relieved that there is protection diode to prevent damage from accidental reverse polarity.
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When you turn the key On does the pump prime for a couple of seconds?
Why were you attempting to jumper the bike in the first place, was there something wrong or just a flat battery?
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_750_Breva.gif
We need to know if the revolution sensor (2) is working, you havent had that out have you?
The revolution sensor picks up a signal from the engine and the ECU turns On the Injection relay (12) which in turn powers up the injectors, coils and fuel pump.
The best thing you can do at this stage is monitor the relay with a small lamp, that will tell you an awful lot about what's going on. Wrap a small wire around the 87 pin of the relay and run it to a small lamp with the other side grounded.
When you turn the bike On you should see the light come on for a couple of seconds then go Off, it should come back On when the bike is cranking over to let you know the powers to all the vital parts.
If you could check that and get back to us.
BTW if you look at the relay (11) you will see it has a diode inside, thats called the safety diode, its there to prevent any damage if you accidentally put the battery in backwards. It won't let th relay close and put the wrong polarity onto the ECU.
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You havent had the tank off by any chance, did you re-connect the pump properly?
No. I have not touched revolution sensor yet, if thats what you mean. Had no reason to.
I will be trying the lamp check like you said in post.
I have to mention that the bike was suspected of having a bad fuel filter before this incident.
Before this incident the bike would run normally only with full tank of gas. It would struggle to stay running when fuel ran out about 1.5 Gallons from the full fuel tank. I didnt get a chance to address that issue yet. I would just refill the gas tank when it would start sputtering/dying after using about 1.5-to-2 gallons of fuel.
I am also thinking of checking/replacing fuel filter this time, after i get it running normally.
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When you turn the key On does the pump prime for a couple of seconds?
Why were you attempting to jumper the bike in the first place, was there something wrong or just a flat battery?
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_750_Breva.gif
We need to know if the revolution sensor (2) is working, you havent had that out have you?
The revolution sensor picks up a signal from the engine and the ECU turns On the Injection relay (12) which in turn powers up the injectors, coils and fuel pump.
The best thing you can do at this stage is monitor the relay with a small lamp, that will tell you an awful lot about what's going on. Wrap a small wire around the 87 pin of the relay and run it to a small lamp with the other side grounded.
When you turn the bike On you should see the light come on for a couple of seconds then go Off, it should come back On when the bike is cranking over to let you know the powers to all the vital parts.
If you could check that and get back to us.
BTW if you look at the relay (11) you will see it has a diode inside, thats called the safety diode, its there to prevent any damage if you accidentally put the battery in backwards. It won't let th relay close and put the wrong polarity onto the ECU.
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You havent had the tank off by any chance, did you re-connect the pump properly?
Yes, I had the tank off to replace the plastic tee. will double check the fuel pump connector.
Q: How to locate this replay on bike ? I see there is row of replays under seat.
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Please dont use the jumper cables, a car battery can put out 1,000 Amps or more, get a small charger or battery tender that doesn't have the potential of letting out magic smoke.
I don't know the Breva relay layout
If you take an Ohmmeter you should be able to get continuity from the pump socket 2 to the 87 contact in the relay base, You might even be able to plug your light into the pumps connector 1 - 2
I see Guzzisteve has chimed in, he has a lot more experience than I do, follow his suggestion.
Your fuel delivery sounds weird, perhaps you should fix that first.
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To find out which relay is which I look on schematic and write down color of wires going to it. They are not always in same location on each bike. When bike is assembled they just hang them on, not always in same position.
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To find out which relay is which I look on schematic and write down color of wires going to it. They are not always in same location on each bike. When bike is assembled they just hang them on, not always in same position.
Ok, understood, thanks for the tips on schematic and tracing by color. Trying this next..
On unrelated note, I am under slight pressure to move the bike before end of month, as I am moving.
Hopefully i will be able to get enough repairs done, and continue to work on non-essential repairs at the new location, where I will have ample time to diagnose/repair/test etc.
As a worst-case, I am thinking of asking my friends help to load bike in his Honda Odessey van somehow and move it, if i cant get it running by then. Otherwise I may have to hire a tow truck/movers at big bucks :(
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A u haul trailer might cost less if you know someone with a hitch. Or make a post on Craig’s list asking for help. Maybe a nice biker with a trailer would help you out?
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A u haul trailer might cost less if you know someone with a hitch. Or make a post on Craig’s list asking for help. Maybe a nice biker with a trailer would help you out?
This, A U haul M/C trailer is about 15.00 a day so just make sure the vehicle you rent or borrow to move has a hitch and electrical plug and use it if you have not figured out your issue. Good luck.
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Guzzi is a relatively small community even worldwide, so much so strangers often are willing to help a fellow enthusiast.
It might not hurt to keep us know where you are and maybe someone can help.
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No. I have not touched revolution sensor yet, if thats what you mean. Had no reason to.
I will be trying the lamp check like you said in post.
I have to mention that the bike was suspected of having a bad fuel filter before this incident.
Before this incident the bike would run normally only with full tank of gas. It would struggle to stay running when fuel ran out about 1.5 Gallons from the full fuel tank. I didnt get a chance to address that issue yet. I would just refill the gas tank when it would start sputtering/dying after using about 1.5-to-2 gallons of fuel.
I am also thinking of checking/replacing fuel filter this time, after i get it running normally.
The sort of information that would have been salient to mention in the original post. Personally I'd address the fuel feed issue including the tank venting before looking for other problems that may or may not exist.
Ciao
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Just go in the bar on the corner and ask "Who owns that pick up outside" Might find someone needs a few bucks.
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Motoguzzi750 - it may be helpful to step back, take a breath and revert to “fuel, air, spark”. I would pull each fuel hose from the tank, turn on the petcock and make sure that there is fuel flow. You may want to drain the tank and pull and clean or replace the filters. It would be a good time to flush the tank and get good fuel. Then check spark. It’s like a puzzle waiting for you to play.
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Guzzi is a relatively small community even worldwide, so much so strangers often are willing to help a fellow enthusiast.
It might not hurt to keep us know where you are and maybe someone can help.
Good point. I am in San Fran South Bay Area, CA.
will be happy to get any help. Thanks for asking.
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To find out which relay is which I look on schematic and write down color of wires going to it. They are not always in same location on each bike. When bike is assembled they just hang them on, not always in same position.
Update: Today I was able to locate the red wire with brown strip on the relay ( going by color in schematic ).
I have stripped off about 1/4 inch from this wire near relay. Planning to attach a small wire with bulb to it as per your suggestion tommorow morning. Lets see how this goes.
I was wondering why would the low fuel light come up when the gas tank is full?
Not sure if this points/hints/is useful info.
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I was wondering why would the low fuel light come up when the gas tank is full?
Not sure if this points/hints/is useful info.
I was wondering that as well but I think will be revealed when you take the pump out, I assume its an in-tank pump.
I think the low fuel sensor may be a float activated reed switch on this bike as opposed to the thermistor used previously.
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Update: Today I was able to locate the red wire with brown strip on the relay ( going by color in schematic ).
I have stripped off about 1/4 inch from this wire near relay. Planning to attach a small wire with bulb to it as per your suggestion tommorow morning. Lets see how this goes.
I was wondering why would the low fuel light come up when the gas tank is full?
Not sure if this points/hints/is useful info.
Does the Breva 750 have an electric petcock. What you describe almost sounds like the wires swapped on an EV with an electric petcock and electric fuel sensor. If you swapped the wires, the low fuel light came on, and you sometimes had odd running issues since it was starved for fuel.
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Breva 750 is pump in tank model.
Brian
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The Breva is a thermistor.
Here is a picture of the Breva 750 pump assembly and thermistor.
(https://i.ibb.co/6R0JpHT/IMG-1735.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6R0JpHT)
(https://i.ibb.co/K5ydXhX/IMG-1734.jpg) (https://ibb.co/K5ydXhX)
(https://i.ibb.co/3MxsH2g/IMG-1731.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3MxsH2g)
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The sort of information that would have been salient to mention in the original post. Personally I'd address the fuel feed issue including the tank venting before looking for other problems that may or may not exist.
Ciao
Both venting hoses are Not connected and saw that one of venting pipe is corroded a bit. I will try to reconnect, clean venting pipe.
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The Breva is a thermistor.
Here is a picture of the Breva 750 pump assembly and thermistor.
(https://i.ibb.co/6R0JpHT/IMG-1735.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6R0JpHT)
(https://i.ibb.co/K5ydXhX/IMG-1734.jpg) (https://ibb.co/K5ydXhX)
(https://ibb.co/3MxsH2g)
Thanks for clearing that up, it shows a thermistor type it should not turn on as long as its below the fuel level
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Both venting hoses are Not connected and saw that one of venting pipe is corroded a bit. I will try to reconnect, clean venting pipe.
The nipple on the water overflow is known to corrode & block on the Breva. Then, instead of flowing out the bottom, the water goes into the tank with the fuel. Happened to a mate - we took the pump out, found parts on it were rusted. The pump was replaced with a secondhand one & the nipple cleaned of corrosion. Needless to say, he checks his overflows more often now.
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The sort of information that would have been salient to mention in the original post. Personally I'd address the fuel feed issue including the tank venting before looking for other problems that may or may not exist.
Ciao
Update/Good News:
I decided to follow your idea/fuel feeding issue, and it worked like charm !
When I pulled out fuel pump ( it was easier to pull out of tank than I expected/read horror stories of ),
found out that the pump motor had come off the fuel pump assembly, and was just hanging around by the wires.
Somehow the plastic claws that hold the fuel motor in place and deformed enough/bent outwards, so the claws were not holding fuel motor in place.
Since this was my first time to work on any fuel pump, I could not immidietly see that as a problem, I didnt know the correct position of fuel motor in fuel pump assembly. It came to my mind suddenly, and decided to test if my thinking was correct or not.
I had to decide on how to keep fuel pump motor in correct/original place in the assembly.
I decided to go with wraping a metal wire arond the motor including the original plastic claws/clamps.
I had previously chrged battery fully indoors using the charger.
WIth fully charged battery and fuel pump motor in correct position, it bike started and stayed running like a champ !
No low fuel light this time.
Oh yeah, I also cut-off rubber grommets to get gas tank bolt aligned, which was a pain before.
I have not yet done riding test or run it until using up all gas in tank, but somehow I feel confident about that.
Thank you all for your valuable support and tips/tricks/guidance ! really appreciate that.
Take care.
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Sounds like another ethanol related plastic deformation?
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Update/Good News:
I decided to follow your idea/fuel feeding issue, and it worked like charm !
When I pulled out fuel pump ( it was easier to pull out of tank than I expected/read horror stories of ),
found out that the pump motor had come off the fuel pump assembly, and was just hanging around by the wires.
Somehow the plastic claws that hold the fuel motor in place and deformed enough/bent outwards, so the claws were not holding fuel motor in place.
Since this was my first time to work on any fuel pump, I could not immidietly see that as a problem, I didnt know the correct position of fuel motor in fuel pump assembly. It came to my mind suddenly, and decided to test if my thinking was correct or not.
I had to decide on how to keep fuel pump motor in correct/original place in the assembly.
I decided to go with wraping a metal wire arond the motor including the original plastic claws/clamps.
I had previously chrged battery fully indoors using the charger.
WIth fully charged battery and fuel pump motor in correct position, it bike started and stayed running like a champ !
No low fuel light this time.
Oh yeah, I also cut-off rubber grommets to get gas tank bolt aligned, which was a pain before.
I have not yet done riding test or run it until using up all gas in tank, but somehow I feel confident about that.
Thank you all for your valuable support and tips/tricks/guidance ! really appreciate that.
Take care.
Good news indeed. The pumps are normally assisted in the plastic mount claws by a plastic tie wrap as well. Congratulations on your first troubleshooting success
Ciao
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Great!
I like happy endings. Show us a picture of the bike.
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Been there and done that!
Replaced all the rubber bits on K100RS (BMW).
Bike died in Vermont.
Start, idle and rev fine but die under load.
Turns out an in tank fuel hose fell off the in tank pump.
The injectors were being gravity fed.
I had no idea that injectors could run when only gravity fed.
So I never investigated the fuel pumping system.
Tuition for that lesson was $700 counting flat bed ride to the dealer.
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Just go in the bar on the corner and ask "Who owns that pick up outside" Might find someone needs a few bucks.
I think I spoke too soon when I said bike started and kept running like a champ :(
1. Yes, It did start and ran at idle speed and a short drive at ~45mph for about 30-40 mins.
2. Then as I took it out for longer ride, after couple of miles, I felt/heard sputtering, throttle not responding, and "EFI" and "Low Fuel" light came ON ( gas is was almost full ).
3. Bike was able to run for few mins after lights and sputtering and went dead while riding on road :(.
4. I was able to stop on shoulder of the expressway, and put on hazard lights.
5. Waited for 5-10 mins, tried to start it, it started, ran for about a mile and then stalled. This time trying to re-start all I could hear was clicking sound from relay etc.
6. I called a tow truck and got it back to my place, as there was no other option I could think of.
I suspect:
1. Since it ran fine at idle when parked, could it be that battery is not getting charged ? I may be loading battery more during riding as opposed to parked at idle, as I turn ON the High beam lights during riding, which maybe using more current.
How do I test if the battery charging circuit is operating properly ?
I hope its just simple battery not getting charged issue, and not some completed EFI/Fuel Pump issue.
Will try to jump start/check battery voltage tomorrow/asap.
Meanwhile please, provide any help/guidance.
Thanks in advance.
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Sounds like it may be a charging issue, possibly something you caused working on the bike
Measure the Voltage while running it should go from about 12 Volts after starting to 13+ at 2000+ revs in fairly short order if its charging.
Its a fairly simple system on the Breva, look for a blown fuse or one of the connectors not plugged in.
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I recommend getting a battery Voltmeter, an easy place to wire it is across the park light in the headlight bucket there its only connected while the key is On, that way you will never be in any doubt, I have one of these on my V7. Running heated gear its very easy to overtax the charging.
https://www.amazon.com/DAIERTEK-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Universal-Terminals/dp/B08D1QNH6G/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&keywords=Automotive+Replacement+Voltmeter+Gauges&qid=1639801185&s=automotive&sr=1-12-spons&ts_id=15729811&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQlNFR0RUT0Y1NUcxJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTgzOTc3MVM1SERRTEFaV1JOTCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDQ3NjAzMU0xTDVUUDVFVkI2RiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
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Sounds like it may be a charging issue, possibly something you caused working on the bike
Measure the Voltage while running it should go from about 12 Volts after starting to 13+ at 2000+ revs in fairly short order if its charging.
------------------------------------------------------------
I recommend getting a battery Voltmeter, an easy place to wire it is across the park light in the headlight bucket there its only connected while the key is On
https://www.amazon.com/DAIERTEK-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Universal-Terminals/dp/B08D1QNH6G/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&keywords=Automotive+Replacement+Voltmeter+Gauges&qid=1639801185&s=automotive&sr=1-12-spons&ts_id=15729811&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQlNFR0RUT0Y1NUcxJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTgzOTc3MVM1SERRTEFaV1JOTCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDQ3NjAzMU0xTDVUUDVFVkI2RiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Yes, I am suspecting battery charging issue more and more, as it started and ran fine for about 30-40 mins, with freshly overnight indoors charged battery, which I had installed back in morning.
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Looks like it. The plastic clamps holding fuel pump motor were deformed. Dont know if previous owner/s used ethanol based/added fuel or not.
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Good news indeed. The pumps are normally assisted in the plastic mount claws by a plastic tie wrap as well. Congratulations on your first troubleshooting success
Ciao
Thank you so much and everyone who helped here.
I didnt see any plastic tie wrap around pump motor. The wrap would have helped, I am fairly sure.
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Great!
I like happy endings. Show us a picture of the bike.
Thanks.
Ok, I will try to post a picture asap.
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Sounds like it may be a charging issue, possibly something you caused working on the bike
Measure the Voltage while running it should go from about 12 Volts after starting to 13+ at 2000+ revs in fairly short order if its charging.
Its a fairly simple system on the Breva, look for a blown fuse or one of the connectors not plugged in.
------------------------------------------------------------
I recommend getting a battery Voltmeter, an easy place to wire it is across the park light in the headlight bucket there its only connected while the key is On, that way you will never be in any doubt, I have one of these on my V7. Running heated gear its very easy to overtax the charging.
https://www.amazon.com/DAIERTEK-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Universal-Terminals/dp/B08D1QNH6G/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&keywords=Automotive+Replacement+Voltmeter+Gauges&qid=1639801185&s=automotive&sr=1-12-spons&ts_id=15729811&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQlNFR0RUT0Y1NUcxJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTgzOTc3MVM1SERRTEFaV1JOTCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDQ3NjAzMU0xTDVUUDVFVkI2RiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
I like your idea of voltmeter. Will start looking into that asap. Thanks for your help.
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Sounds like it may be a charging issue, possibly something you caused working on the bike
Measure the Voltage while running it should go from about 12 Volts after starting to 13+ at 2000+ revs in fairly short order if its charging.
Its a fairly simple system on the Breva, look for a blown fuse or one of the connectors not plugged in.
------------------------------------------------------------
I recommend getting a battery Voltmeter, an easy place to wire it is across the park light in the headlight bucket there its only connected while the key is On, that way you will never be in any doubt, I have one of these on my V7. Running heated gear its very easy to overtax the charging.
https://www.amazon.com/DAIERTEK-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Universal-Terminals/dp/B08D1QNH6G/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&keywords=Automotive+Replacement+Voltmeter+Gauges&qid=1639801185&s=automotive&sr=1-12-spons&ts_id=15729811&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQlNFR0RUT0Y1NUcxJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTgzOTc3MVM1SERRTEFaV1JOTCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDQ3NjAzMU0xTDVUUDVFVkI2RiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Yes, you were correct. It was a blown fuse. Thank you so much for your help/guidance.
I was able to check the fuses, and found one of 30amp fuse was blown ( certainly caused by my mistake of jump starting using car ).
I have replaced that fuse, and then found that there is about 13.4/13.5 volts at around 2500-to-3000 rpm.
Drove the bike bike, and now it runs with no problem !
Now, the fuel pump, fuel leak, blown fuse all have been sorted, and finally i am able to drive the bike whenever i want to :)
Happy about that, and learned so much from this.
Thank you all so much !
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Sounds like it may be a charging issue, possibly something you caused working on the bike
Measure the Voltage while running it should go from about 12 Volts after starting to 13+ at 2000+ revs in fairly short order if its charging.
Its a fairly simple system on the Breva, look for a blown fuse or one of the connectors not plugged in.
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I recommend getting a battery Voltmeter, an easy place to wire it is across the park light in the headlight bucket there its only connected while the key is On, that way you will never be in any doubt, I have one of these on my V7. Running heated gear its very easy to overtax the charging.
https://www.amazon.com/DAIERTEK-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Universal-Terminals/dp/B08D1QNH6G/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&keywords=Automotive+Replacement+Voltmeter+Gauges&qid=1639801185&s=automotive&sr=1-12-spons&ts_id=15729811&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQlNFR0RUT0Y1NUcxJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTgzOTc3MVM1SERRTEFaV1JOTCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDQ3NjAzMU0xTDVUUDVFVkI2RiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
I like your idea of voltmeter.
Any suggestions as to where to install voltmeter on bike ?
I will also, try to think of a good place.
I could use some tips on how to go about tapping the parking light supply as you mentioned.
Thanks.
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Yes, you were correct. It was a blown fuse. Thank you so much for your help/guidance.
I was able to check the fuses, and found one of 30amp fuse was blown ( certainly caused by my mistake of jump starting using car ).
I have replaced that fuse, and then found that there is about 13.4/13.5 volts at around 2500-to-3000 rpm.
Drove the bike bike, and now it runs with no problem !
Now, the fuel pump, fuel leak, blown fuse all have been sorted, and finally i am able to drive the bike whenever i want to :)
Happy about that, and learned so much from this.
Thank you all so much !
Your charging voltage looks too low to me. You should be getting 13.8 to 14.2 max
Ciao
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I like your idea of voltmeter.
Any suggestions as to where to install voltmeter on bike ?
I will also, try to think of a good place.
I could use some tips on how to go about tapping the parking light supply as you mentioned.
Thanks.
One way is to pinch a sheetmetal bracket between the handlebar clamps.
I just spliced a wire to the park light wire inside the headlight bucket
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Your charging voltage looks too low to me. You should be getting 13.8 to 14.2 max
Ciao
Ok. Understood. I will try to keep an eye on that.
Thanks.
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One way is to pinch a sheetmetal bracket between the handlebar clamps.
I just spliced a wire to the park light wire inside the headlight bucket
Ok. Understood. Thanks. I will try to do same/similar.