Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: mattst on January 02, 2022, 09:26:33 PM
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hi team
mk2 I am working on has a stuck clutch as it hasn't been ridden for about 20yrs.. Im not confident to hop on it and take it for a ride to free clutch up that way
I got no problems with getting gear box out
How do I free clutch up ?
undo the 8 bolts and take it out and clean it up and check spring length etc ?
When I put it back in do u need to line it up with the arrows on the fly wheel? or just put it all back in..?
also alignment ? what does that mean ?? do I need that tool or can I make something up to help with that ?
any pointers or help would be much appreciated
thanks
matt
NZ
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Maybe somebody will be along with the link to This Old Tractor. Welcome to the madness.
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The MG Cycle clutch tool is very handy since it compresses the pressure plate to remove the ring gear bolts and lines up the clutch plates. If the bike is running I would try dropping it into first a few times to see if you can free the plates. Crabbing the bike is a lot of work and will invariably lead to other repairs if the bike hasn’t been used in 20 years.
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You have to align the flywheel to the crankshaft but it doesn't sound like you will be removing or disturbing that. The pressure plate needs a very specific alignment to the flywheel to ensure that the springs seat properly in their recesses. The clutch plates and floater plate need to be accurately centered before everything is clamped down and that requires a specialty centering tool.
Start by reading some of the manuals here:
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_tonti_workshop_manuals___shop_manuals___service_manuals.html (https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_tonti_workshop_manuals___shop_manuals___service_manuals.html)
More than you need, but a wonderful series of pictures here:
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/projects_roy_smith_2013-03-19_install_the_flywheel_and_clutch.html (https://www.thisoldtractor.com/projects_roy_smith_2013-03-19_install_the_flywheel_and_clutch.html)
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
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If the clutch lever moves, tie it back to the handle bar and smack the flywheel through the timing plug hole with a brass or other soft punch and a big hammer. Put the front wheel against a wall, start engine an d drop into first gear. Might work, might not.
Brian
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Riding the bike with the clutch lever pulled in is by far the easiest way to free a stuck clutch. If you are uncomfortable doing it, find someone who is. Last one my friend did, took a few trips around the block to free up. And that clutch worked fine after releasing. Maybe 20 years will not be so kind for you, but I would try that first before a teardown.
Mike
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This is a good thread with lots of suggestions and advice.
kk
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=103455.0
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A customer's BMW R100RS had a very stuck clutch. I pushed the bike up the slight incline in front of my shop, turned it down hill, started the engine, pushed it as fast as I could before my leg cramped up, pulled in the clutch, dropped it into 2nd gear and then rolled on and off the throttle with the clutch still pulled in. About the third on/off throttle, it finally released. Worked perfectly well afterwards.
Did the same thing to my Yamaha XT500 years ago.
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I would try getting it to break loose as mentioned, clutch lever pulled and ride in first or second gear on and off throttle abruptly. You may get it to free up , but. What is the mileage? If it is the original clutch it has the shallow spline hub and plates which are quick to get notchy and cause the clutch to grab unpredictably. The Trans output splines are likely due for a clean up and dry lube, the engine rear seal and trans front seal are due for replacement. Also the clutch push rod seals and thrust bearing. The cam plug should get the jb weld seal as well. You'll be glad you went in and refreshed all of the above when you're done. Lots of us here have been there and happy to help you along. That's a bike that's worth every dime you put into it , so no sense cutting corners. Keep us posted!
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I ended up pulling gear box out as wanted to have a look at how the clutch all went together, took a bit of time the first time but pretty easy . the push rod appears to be fused to the clutch thrust piece? I take it this is not normal ??
(https://i.ibb.co/d44S6zZ/IMG-5853.jpg) (https://ibb.co/d44S6zZ)
I guess I just separate these two parts ??
thanks for every ones help here
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Riding the bike with the clutch lever pulled in is by far the easiest way to free a stuck clutch. If you are uncomfortable doing it, find someone who is. Last one my friend did, took a few trips around the block to free up. And that clutch worked fine after releasing. Maybe 20 years will not be so kind for you, but I would try that first before a teardown.
Mike
How do you get it started ?
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That hub shows pretty significant notching, I would defiantly replace with new deep spline version. I went with the SD tech plates and the slightly more expensive laser cut center plate .also the double o ring actuator / plunger , and lighter springs. Replace flywheel bolts/locks as well and pushrod seals of course. here
https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=4766
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How do you get it started ?
Put it in neutral and warm up the motor until it idles on its own. Shut it down, put it in gear (2nd?), hold on and crank it up... :bike-037:
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^ I think you missed the post where he took it apart :) .
Also as said before your clutch hub is crap , get the new 4mm splined on and friction plates to go with it .
I own a Le Mans 2 (for over 1/4 million kilometers) . Peter
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Usually the fused clutch thrust plate and pushrod is a sign of the arm outside the box exerting pressure onto the pushrod causing it to spin all the time which it's not designed to do. I think it can also happen if the pushrod thrust bearing fails.
Pull the pushrod bits out of the endcase on the gearbox and have a look, they can be pulled out with pliers, just don't go at it like "a shaved ape"*
Wiser heads will confirm or have a better theory
John
*paraphrasing Professor Roper
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Usually the fused clutch thrust plate and pushrod is a sign of the arm outside the box exerting pressure onto the pushrod causing it to spin all the time which it's not designed to do. I think it can also happen if the pushrod thrust bearing fails.
Pull the pushrod bits out of the endcase on the gearbox and have a look, they can be pulled out with pliers, just don't go at it like "a shaved ape"*
Wiser heads will confirm or have a better theory
John
*paraphrasing Professor Roper
This, and as others have said, the transmission input gizmo (technical term) is toast. MG Cycle sells a kit of new clutch plates, intermediate plate and input gizmo. Have a look at the flywheel while you are at it. If someone continually holds the clutch in at stops, the uneven firing order wears all the stuff that is free to rattle.