Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: kidsmoke on January 04, 2022, 01:41:37 PM
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Seeking recommendations and or service related anecdotes for knocking out this task in the next few weeks. I know there are upgrades out there. Would you recommend? Which and why? Leave all that alone and just replace the oil/seals and run it? Seeking all input
The Jackal has non adjustable forks.
I'll throw these in here so you can feel free to be specific on suggestions
(https://i.imgur.com/9aOtizX.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/v0akcVn.png)
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You could upgrade the springs in the forks. Depends on your loads that you run. Heavier fork oil to slow the damping too but again depends on you and your riding. I'm 155lbs and usually rode alone w/stock trim. Original suspension was fine for me. If I used it for touring and with a pax then I'd modify it.
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Don’t over tighten #31 , especially on the side with the large axel hole when it’s put back together. I broke one forty plus years ago. A new spring set is nice occasionally. I don’t remember which ones I used but they are progressive wound from MG cycle and I thought they improved the ride.
Edit: it only has those screws on the one side according to the parts illustration
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You could see if you could get a 2nd hand set of EV forks for some adjustability
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I agree with Tom about fork oil, also I like fork gaiters to keep fork tubes clean and free of stones chipping them.
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I just did this task recently on the Cali Stone I’m reworking in the garage. I haven’t tested it out yet but I went the route of the upgraded Hyperpro springs and their oil. It will be a while getting back on the road to test for me, but anyhow, just fyi. I also added gaiters and new fork seals, the latter of which (the old ones) were damn near impacted.
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I appreciate the feedback! Please keep it coming.
The shop manual states SAE 10 weight fork oil. How dramatic a change is jumping to 15 going to make?
Fyi, in full ATGATT trim I'm 200#, rarely 2 up, but it does happen, couple of rallys with bags on the back if I'm lucky. Also, added Ikons to the rear last season.
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I also added gaiters and new fork seals, the latter of which (the old ones) were damn near impacted.
care to share a shot of Gaiters and where you found 'em. This was on my list as well.
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Ace told me when I put new seals in my Jackal to use 7# oil in front forks. And don’t cal those boy’s in Wis. and try to get the Allen for tube drain. They told me they didn’t Handel them because any metic allen would work. Bull sh#$&. You need one with o ring seal.Rudy
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Ace told me when I put new seals in my Jackal to use 7# oil in front forks. And don’t cal those boy’s in Wis. and try to get the Allen for tube drain. They told me they didn’t Handel them because any metic allen would work. Bull sh#$&. You need one with o ring seal.Rudy
Thanks Rudy
And you went with the #7 oil? notice any change?
I'm assuming you mean screw #34 in the diagram?
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FWIW, I use hydraulic oil in my forks. It's a little heavier and feels perfect to me. Fork oil on these rough roads is just too light.
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Yes on #7 oil. No. 33 screw.Rudy
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I’ve been using motor oil, multi weight. Works well and the forks don’t know the difference.
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You could see if you could get a 2nd hand set of EV forks for some adjustability
This is a path I've looked at, tried snagging an old EV last summer for the tubeless rims and the forks.
The ideal would be to swap the tubes and internals from adjustable Bassa/EV forks into the existing Jackal fork lowers. Can this be done?
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Hey man, unless you go complete fork swap I would think about the 7 wt fork oil and progressively would springs.
The oil will affect the dampening and is pretty cheap to drain and replace until you find something you like.
The fork spring swap made a huge difference on my Norton, well worth the money.
Part of my spring service on the GRiSO will be replace fork oil. I plan to run what the factory recommends. I haven't taken advantage of any of the suspension adjustments available but with the new rear shock upgrade I imagine I will be fiddling around with it.
For reference I run ATF in my Soviet POS, 5 wt in the race bikes, 7 wt in the dirt bikes and 20 wt in the Bultaco.
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Guts from a Bassa or Sport or any of the other bike that used the same upper tube are compression and rebound adjustable.
The adjustment dial are different. I used Bassa. I really can't tell any difference when making adjustments. I even change the oil weight.
I used the drop in, I couldn't tell any difference. The were a mess to make adjustment and required a couple of hour.
Leave them stock and run 20 weight oil in them.