Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Beowulf on January 21, 2022, 05:30:23 PM
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Well I got on the bike to go to meet my wife for a date and soon as I twist the throttle and go it goes and than I stop and it continues to rev freakishly high. I don’t know what I did to offend it this time but the tech is the last one to work on it. Thoughts? I’m beating my head right now. Darn thing is in the shop for two months for fuel relay, previous to that kickstand switch, neutral switch is scheduled to be fixed and now this. :violent1: I’m trying to be patient but this is something else.
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Good luck with everything.... :rolleyes: :shocked:
There is nothing more frustrating than a new, modern motorcycle with technical issues!! :shocked: :shocked:
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I've had this problem before. Throttle cable has worn/kinked/binding, and not allowing to return
Another very slight possibility, the lube you used on the cable is to thick, colder weather i's even thicker and binding.
But my guess is, time for a new cable.
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I've had this problem before. Throttle cable has worn/kinked/binding, and not allowing to return
Another very slight possibility, the lube you used on the cable is to thick, colder weather i's even thicker and binding.
But my guess is, time for a new cable.
Thank you. I feel like an idiot but soon as wiggled the cables the throttle kicked down to an idle. It’s definitely in the cables. I will clean and find what’s going on tomorrow but at least I have answers. Much appreciated.
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Could also be when the bike was assembled, the mechanic misrouted or kinked the cable.
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Two months for a relay? Might need to find a new shop.
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I should think the 850's cables are the same as my earlier V7's - twisted stainless wire in a Teflon lined sheath. Lubrication is not required, but should be avoided. The lube ends up causing the cable to stick, and some lubes melt the Teflon. If they don't run freely, remove them them, check for integrity & smooth action. Replace with new if necessary.
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Could be as simple as when the tank was installed (provided it was removed) they routed the cable under the tank mount instead of over, or vise versa.
Tom
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I should think the 850's cables are the same as my earlier V7's - twisted stainless wire in a Teflon lined sheath. Lubrication is not required, but should be avoided. The lube ends up causing the cable to stick, and some lubes melt the Teflon. If they don't run freely, remove them them, check for integrity & smooth action. Replace with new if necessary.
It is better to grease, with a "dry" teflon grease (PTFE).
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On my 2017 V7III the throttle cable inners are steel covered by what looks like Nylon I took the throttle grip apart and was shocked to find the return cable broken, it was rusted right through in 3 places.
Even if you dribbled oil into the cable it is not able to get to the steel because of the Nylon sheath, they are not well thought out IMHO
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=113804.0
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If you do want to lube the cables, I’d use lube for wire feed welders. It will not do anything detrimental to the cable liner. It is conducive so the only problem I’ve had with it is when I use it on a cable that terminates inside a carb, it could short out the spark plug if too much is used.
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It’s not a reflection of you or your bike, but getting something like a Guzzi means you have to develop some mechanical skills.
You should not have to, but this is the way of it.
The first instinct I would have obeyed in this case was to see if there was any free play in the cable, or disconnected the cable from the drum and checked for binding in the cable or the quadrant...
It can be a steep learning curve initially and absolutely exasperating, but you pick up skills as you go and it can be part of the “charm...” :rolleyes:
I am exactly the same as you when my computer stops..
I have no diagnostic skills whatsoever and only learn barely what I need, to get done what I have to. The bike does not hate you, but with these things you have to fill in the gaps between what you expect and what you got.
Once you have done that, you will have your bike “sorted” and will enjoy it more than you thought you were going to.
Just stay in touch here and there is very little that cannot be thought through with the combined knowledge of the group.
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If you do want to lube the cables, I’d use lube for wire feed welders. It will not do anything detrimental to the cable liner. It is conducive so the only problem I’ve had with it is when I use it on a cable that terminates inside a carb, it could short out the spark plug if too much is used.
Conductive John.
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If you do want to lube the cables, I’d use lube for wire feed welders. It will not do anything detrimental to the cable liner. It is conducive so the only problem I’ve had with it is when I use it on a cable that terminates inside a carb, it could short out the spark plug if too much is used.
You've lost me on how a cable that terminates in the carb could effect the ignition secondary circuit?!?
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If you do want to lube the cables, I’d use lube for wire feed welders. It will not do anything detrimental to the cable liner. It is conducive so the only problem I’ve had with it is when I use it on a cable that terminates inside a carb, it could short out the spark plug if too much is used.
Hmmm yes.
I know you will have a reason to think that, but I too wonder what it is..? :popcorn:
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It’s not a reflection of you or your bike, but getting something like a Guzzi means you have to develop some mechanical skills.
You should not have to, but this is the way of it.
The first instinct I would have obeyed in this case was to see if there was any free play in the cable, or disconnected the cable from the drum and checked for binding in the cable or the quadrant...
It can be a steep learning curve initially and absolutely exasperating, but you pick up skills as you go and it can be part of the “charm...” :rolleyes:
I am exactly the same as you when my computer stops..
I have no diagnostic skills whatsoever and only learn barely what I need, to get done what I have to. The bike does not hate you, but with these things you have to fill in the gaps between what you expect and what you got.
Once you have done that, you will have your bike “sorted” and will enjoy it more than you thought you were going to.
Just stay in touch here and there is very little that cannot be thought through with the combined knowledge of the group.
Well I realize the bike is Inanimate object and it doesn’t hate me and that mechanical skills are indeed necessary. I was just mentally done at that point. I have an odd sense of humor and find ways to amuse myself by titles such as this and it helps me not to throw a wrench. It just not what I expected after only 5000 miles.
I to am at a loss when computer programs are involved and relays and the electrical end of things. I’m certainly not a mechanical genius but I am able to do what I need. I currently am swapping out a clutch on my wife’s mini for instance.
I found the cables had been routed the wrong way when I pulled the tank today and corrected the issue. So far so good.
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If you are doing a clutch on a Mini you have more than average skills. A shop owner I know did one a ways back it was a massive job. I don’t remember what he had to do but I think he may have had to pull the engine.
kk
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If you are doing a clutch on a Mini you have more than average skills. A shop owner I know did one a ways back it was a massive job. I don’t remember what he had to do but I think he may have had to pull the engine.
kk
So there’s several ways to do it. I found a suggestion to drop the subframe with the vehicle lifted which gave me access to lower the transmission once unbolted and roll it out with a jack. It’s been a job but not impossible. Waiting on a seal but these dual mass fly wheels are interesting stuff. It’s honestly an impressive design.
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Well I realize the bike is Inanimate object and it doesn’t hate me and that mechanical skills are indeed necessary. I was just mentally done at that point. I have an odd sense of humor and find ways to amuse myself by titles such as this and it helps me not to throw a wrench. It just not what I expected after only 5000 miles.
I to am at a loss when computer programs are involved and relays and the electrical end of things. I’m certainly not a mechanical genius but I am able to do what I need. I currently am swapping out a clutch on my wife’s mini for instance.
I found the cables had been routed the wrong way when I pulled the tank today and corrected the issue. So far so good.
Nah, it hates you. Drop it off at my place, we will get along ;-)
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So there’s several ways to do it. I found a suggestion to drop the subframe with the vehicle lifted which gave me access to lower the transmission once unbolted and roll it out with a jack. It’s been a job but not impossible. Waiting on a seal but these dual mass fly wheels are interesting stuff. It’s honestly an impressive design.
Maybe that is what he did, I don't remember. I do know he had to tear half the car apart.
kk
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So I need help. I’m at a loss and need a direction to go. My problem is that the bike revs when the throttle is pulled and won’t idle back down and if it does it hangs up and continues to idle at high rpm. Honestly this is most problematic vehicle I have owned.
1. The throttle itself moves freely and returns to position as usual.
2. The bike will start and idle but the kill switch no longer works.
3. When the clutch is released without gas partially while running the throttle kicks down.
4. I have checked the valves while cold. They are properly adjusted.
5. I have fuel. But the bike while just idling sputters. I replaced the spark plugs with new. I have changed the air filter and don’t see anything bad.
6. The clutch is in adjustment per the manual. The neutral light does not work but the bike shifts to neutral.
7. Kickstand sensor has been replaced and is working. I realize some of things don’t correlate but I’m trying to give a complete picture.
8. Nothing looks corroded or out of place. I have pulled the tank and looked at several diagrams and traced the throttle cables throughout the bike no kinks or corrosion is visible to me.
Please if you could advise me what to look for I’d appreciate it because I believe this a phenomenal design for a motorcycle and feel this not the usual for this brand or model.
P.s
I plan on contacting AF1 tomorrow for further advice.
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Sounds like a vacuum leak. Something may have been left disconnected during the troubleshooting and repair.
Dave
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Your Kill switch and Neutral switch do not work?
RPMS hang when you release throttle?
RPMs drop on clutch release?
If your bike is under warranty, take it to a good shop, even if you have to ship it. Don't let those monkeys play with it anymore.
But if I remember, you have removed the AIC/reed valves, removed the evap system, and a few other things. Those may effect your hanging RPM issue, but have nothing to do with loss of the neutral light and gear indicator, or that the engine kill switch doesn't work.
Someone buggered something pretty badly. I'd have the tank off, go over all the TB vaccum lines and connections, the reed valve mods, then track down the loss of neutral light and then the kill switch issue.
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Your Kill switch and Neutral switch do not work?
RPMS hang when you release throttle?
RPMs drop on clutch release?
If your bike is under warranty, take it to a good shop, even if you have to ship it. Don't let those monkeys play with it anymore.
But if I remember, you have removed the AIC/reed valves, removed the evap system, and a few other things. Those may effect your hanging RPM issue, but have nothing to do with loss of the neutral light and gear indicator, or that the engine kill switch doesn't work.
Someone buggered something pretty badly. I'd have the tank off, go over all the TB vaccum lines and connections, the reed valve mods, then track down the loss of neutral light and then the kill switch issue.
I did remove the evap canister but nothing else is removed. I may reattach it. Just to rule it out.
You may be thinking the previous v7ii I had with ran great. I did remove and swap quite few things on that.
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I did remove the evap canister but nothing else is removed. I may reattach it. Just to rule it out.
You may be thinking the previous v7ii I had with ran great. I did remove and swap quite few things on that.
Didn't you also bypass the secondary air system? (blows air over the exhaust valve/port) Just trying to help you track the issues down. The Evap system got pretty complex in later years. I removed it off my Griso and Norge and 1200 Sport, but left it on the Stornello due to it being a bit different. The V7iii & 850 look a bit more complex.
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Didn't you also bypass the secondary air system? (blows air over the exhaust valve/port) Just trying to help you track the issues down. The Evap system got pretty complex in later years. I removed it off my Griso and Norge and 1200 Sport, but left it on the Stornello due to it being a bit different. The V7iii & 850 look a bit more complex.
Honestly appreciate the brainstorming. The only thing I did with this bike was removed the evap canister and plug the line and let the other one breathe for the tank vapors. I didn’t touch anything else until the kickstand sensor failed and I bypassed it to have transportation to work. I hope I haven’t come off to prickly to anyone. Really appreciate everyone’s input just stumped. Could removal of the evap canister theoretically cause this?
I checked all possible vacuum leak locations that are obvious to me. Is there another area I can check?
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If I read right. The neutral light, kill switch and hi idle has shown up after the shop worked on it?
Kill switch: Find a wiring diagram and see if you can find a connector for it. Pull apart, inspect and attach. Shop may not have fully seated it.
Neutral light: Same as above.
Hi idle: Check again to make sure it routed as smooth as possible. Check to make sure outer cable ends are seated and the inner ends are working smoothly. If not too difficult, remove the TB end and slide the outer housing and see if it feels sticky. If this throttle has the return cable, make sure it's adjusted properly. If you do remove the cable end from what it attaches to, make sure that piece is not sticky.
Hope this helps a little,
Tom
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If I read right. The neutral light, kill switch and hi idle has shown up after the shop worked on it?
Kill switch: Find a wiring diagram and see if you can find a connector for it. Pull apart, inspect and attach. Shop may not have fully seated it.
Neutral light: Same as above.
Hi idle: Check again to make sure it routed as smooth as possible. Check to make sure outer cable ends are seated and the inner ends are working smoothly. If not too difficult, remove the TB end and slide the outer housing and see if it feels sticky. If this throttle has the return cable, make sure it's adjusted properly. If you do remove the cable end from what it attaches to, make sure that piece is not sticky.
Hope this helps a little,
Tom
I will go over what you mentioned and report back this week. Appreciate the responses. I emailed Af1 to see about getting it to them. But I will certainly check this out. If anyone has an idea please by all means mention it and if it turns out good I’ll buy you a pizza. If not I’ll still appreciate the attempt.
I find it weird so many electrical problems have occurred.
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Honestly appreciate the brainstorming. The only thing I did with this bike was removed the evap canister and plug the line and let the other one breathe for the tank vapors. I didn’t touch anything else until the kickstand sensor failed and I bypassed it to have transportation to work. I hope I haven’t come off to prickly to anyone. Really appreciate everyone’s input just stumped. Could removal of the evap canister theoretically cause this?
I checked all possible vacuum leak locations that are obvious to me. Is there another area I can check?
Not prickly at all, but understand the frustration. I'm sure the forum will help you track it down. Removing the canister in and of itself wouldn't create an issue I know of unless the 'plug' in the vac line is leaking.
MI disabled the evap system on my Griso by plugging the lines to the TBs and drilling out the check valve allowing the tank to vent through the canister, and still look intact for the enviro nazi inspection. On my others (Norge/1200 Sport) I removed the whole system, ran the vent lines to below the frame, and connected the throttle bodies with a line.
I'm more concerned about the new problems of kill switch and neutral light/gear indicator not working. I'm thinking the shop buggered those up.
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I should have also mentioned this. If you can get to the neutral light switch on the trans. You could take a multi meter on continuity function and touch one lead to the switch where the wire hooks up to and one to the trans or any ground, the battery ground for instance. Confirm in neutral and see it it shows/beeps for continuity. At least the switch on older bikes work this way.
Tom
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:angry:
Sarah
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Wow ! what a frustrating sequence of events. I'd quickly have fallen out of love with such a problematic bike, kudos for so much patience.
On my Stornello I'd plugged and rerouted so many vent and emission tubes I finally pulled the tank and airbox in an effort to mentally map and reroute potential problem spots. From memory the main places that could suck air into the engine are an inlet in the top of the "Y" piece that connects the throttle body to the cylinder heads, the head vents on the valve covers that relieve crankcase pressure, and the inlet into the back of the oil pan down by the kickstand.
Maybe rig up a temp gas feed and clamp these hoses sequentially, hoping to find one that evens out the idle. Certainly sounds like a vacuum leak - mine did the very same thing when I started it without the airbox.
This is all based on my V7II, the 850 may differ.
Good luck ! I'm still working towards a decent power curve without the flat spot. Can tell once these things are dialed they're a ton of fun.
Rich
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Wow ! what a frustrating sequence of events. I'd quickly have fallen out of love with such a problematic bike, kudos for so much patience.
On my Stornello I'd plugged and rerouted so many vent and emission tubes I finally pulled the tank and airbox in an effort to mentally map and reroute potential problem spots. From memory the main places that could suck air into the engine are an inlet in the top of the "Y" piece that connects the throttle body to the cylinder heads, the head vents on the valve covers that relieve crankcase pressure, and the inlet into the back of the oil pan down by the kickstand.
Maybe rig up a temp gas feed and clamp these hoses sequentially, hoping to find one that evens out the idle. Certainly sounds like a vacuum leak - mine did the very same thing when I started it without the airbox.
This is all based on my V7II, the 850 may differ.
Good luck ! I'm still working towards a decent power curve without the flat spot. Can tell once these things are dialed they're a ton of fun.
Rich
You describe why I chose to leave the evap system in place on my Stornello. Have you tried a Beetle map on your Stornello? His map turns that flat spot into a bump in torque/power. First time I took it out with the new map, I pulled the front wheel up for a second. I had gotten use to that flat spot in the 3-3.5K range, and gave it a bit more throttle. When I did this after the re-map, the flat spot all but went away. I occasionally have a cold start surge issue, but only when the temps are in the 40-50's.
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Good suggestions I’m hoping to get time to diagnose but with work it’s difficult. I too will vouch for the amazing transformation a beetle map produced for my V7 ii.
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You describe why I chose to leave the evap system in place on my Stornello. Have you tried a Beetle map on your Stornello? His map turns that flat spot into a bump in torque/power. First time I took it out with the new map, I pulled the front wheel up for a second. I had gotten use to that flat spot in the 3-3.5K range, and gave it a bit more throttle. When I did this after the re-map, the flat spot all but went away. I occasionally have a cold start surge issue, but only when the temps are in the 40-50's.
I just ordered it this morning ! fingers crossed it's the magic bullet... or at least an enchanted pellet.
Rich
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You describe why I chose to leave the evap system in place on my Stornello. Have you tried a Beetle map on your Stornello? His map turns that flat spot into a bump in torque/power. First time I took it out with the new map, I pulled the front wheel up for a second. I had gotten use to that flat spot in the 3-3.5K range, and gave it a bit more throttle. When I did this after the re-map, the flat spot all but went away. I occasionally have a cold start surge issue, but only when the temps are in the 40-50's.
2 things
* IIRC the vent system plumbing (mostly to from airbox) VARIES on MkI, II, and III models with the Stornello possibly bring different from the rest.
* Though clamping off EVAP vent inlets to the throttle body can be fine, you don't want to clamp off crankcase outlets (like the valve cover vents) unless you want to cause gasket leaks. Crankcase ventilation exists so the pressure pulses caused by piston motion don't blow out gaskets. And the return line to the oil pan is simply to get some of that oil back to the pan from the airbox. It's not got any way to effect idle
As for the idle problem itself sure check for vacuum leaks on the intake tract but that's the only place that can effect it. If you can't find a mechanical problem with the intake or cables, then it's time to think electronic. Look at sensor input and idle air control valve condition/operation.
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First time I took it out with the new map, I pulled the front wheel up for a second.
Personally, I would be even more impressed if it had enough power to pull your hat off your head.. :evil: (any V-7) My map is good, and not changing a thing.. Leaving the emissions alone on this one..Zero benefit over then a bit of weight, and or the looks of it gone..
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Come on fellas, no map, no matter how good is going to make a Heron head small block pull wheelies, even little ones! One can pull a wheelie on one if they know the technique, but yo aren’t going to raise the front tire off the ground because you installed a new map. :grin:
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Come on fellas, no map, no matter how good is going to make a Heron head small block pull wheelies, even little ones! One can pull a wheelie on one if they know the technique, but yo aren’t going to raise the front tire off the ground because you installed a new map. :grin:
Most big blocks too. No matter what head is on them. :grin:
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Come on fellas, no map, no matter how good is going to make a Heron head small block pull wheelies, even little ones! One can pull a wheelie on one if they know the technique, but yo aren’t going to raise the front tire off the ground because you installed a new map. :grin:
Don’t say that too loud. My bike is taking enough things personally lately. You might offend it even though it doesn’t have a beetle map currently . :evil:
I was wondering did anyone have their V7 850 need a reflash? None of this occurred till after that it. I know it doesn’t account for everything but I just want to confirm that there is actually a reflash for this bike and the dealer isn’t messing up again.
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2 things
* IIRC the vent system plumbing (mostly to from airbox) VARIES on MkI, II, and III models with the Stornello possibly bring different from the rest.
* Though clamping off EVAP vent inlets to the throttle body can be fine, you don't want to clamp off crankcase outlets (like the valve cover vents) unless you want to cause gasket leaks. Crankcase ventilation exists so the pressure pulses caused by piston motion don't blow out gaskets. And the return line to the oil pan is simply to get some of that oil back to the pan from the airbox. It's not got any way to effect idle
As for the idle problem itself sure check for vacuum leaks on the intake tract but that's the only place that can effect it. If you can't find a mechanical problem with the intake or cables, then it's time to think electronic. Look at sensor input and idle air control valve condition/operation.
I should've made it clear the clamping of hoses a brief endeavor, only to determine what affects the idle.
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I should've made it clear the clamping of hoses a brief endeavor, only to determine what affects the idle.
No, I picked that up, but I still don't think it's worth it. Breather really shouldn't effect idle. Not like that.
Nor oil drainback.
Gotta be something else.
My money is on the IACV mechanically or electrically (if no other mechanical cause is found).
EDIT - You should look at the wiring diagram to see if there is any commonality between the neutral circuit, IACV circuit or other circuits that might have been touched during diagnostics or service. Like even a common ground or sub-harness connector or the like.
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Just because the throttle cable closes at the grip doesn't mean it is at the throttle bodies. Check by hand that they close fully and if not find the cause. Start with simple stuff first as that's what it usually is.
Good luck🤞
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Just because the throttle cable closes at the grip doesn't mean it is at the throttle bodies. Check by hand that they close fully and if not find the cause. Start with simple stuff first as that's what it usually is.
Good luck🤞
Disconnect the throttle cable from the quadrant.
At that point you’ll be able to check that the quadrant is snapping shut and the cable is free.
Take off the air inlet tract and visible see if the butterfly is closing.
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Don’t say that too loud. My bike is taking enough things personally lately. You might offend it even though it doesn’t have a beetle map currently . :evil:
I was wondering did anyone have their V7 850 need a reflash? None of this occurred till after that it. I know it doesn’t account for everything but I just want to confirm that there is actually a reflash for this bike and the dealer isn’t messing up again.
A little bird told me to make sure you check your airbox. If the shop overfilled it with oil then:
"If it's pumped a load into the airbox it may well of fouled the air pressure sensor in the MUIG-3. When that happens all sorts of weird idling problems can occur."
Which makes a lot of sense.
Easy enough to check as well.
Kev
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Come on fellas, no map, no matter how good is going to make a Heron head small block pull wheelies, even little ones! One can pull a wheelie on one if they know the technique, but yo aren’t going to raise the front tire off the ground because you installed a new map. :grin:
Your bad Chad.... Well wrong at least. It happened....... "There I was................" lol
Seriously though, it did, but believe what you want. More important point is that the Beetle Map on the Stornello turned the 'flat spot' at 3000 +/- into a very nice bump of power.
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If you say so. I suppose some sort of perfect storm came together and made it possible.
More likely you experienced full or close to full fork extension, which is impressive in of itself.
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So I’m going to check out the suggestions when I get a breather from work this weekend. Been quite a week. Just an update AF1 contacted me again offering another helpful suggestion and is checking into getting the bike up to Austin. At any rate I’m done with dealer here, they seem nice but I’m not very confident in their abilities.
So hopefully Af1 finds a way to transport it and if not I’ll bring up in a week or so if I can’t find it in the next couple of days. I will update with further developments.
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Not trying to hijack your thread, and I do have empathy regarding this situation. But, your experience is a reminder of the frustrating situation, that buyers of new MG bikes face. Either a complete lack of vibrant, dedicated dealers nearby, except for a basic retail store, that may try to be helpful, but usually don’t instill confidence. I’m in the Philly metro area, and there are just two Moto Guzzi dealers that I would consider a purchase from, with the closest in Connecticut, about 2 hundred miles north.
Anyway, back to your situation, and I do hope that between the good folks here, and AF1, you can get that resolved. The 850 V7 is a sweet machine.
So I’m going to check out the suggestions when I get a breather from work this weekend. Been quite a week. Just an update AF1 contacted me again offering another helpful suggestion and is checking into getting the bike up to Austin. At any rate I’m done with dealer here, they seem nice but I’m not very confident in their abilities.
So hopefully Af1 finds a way to transport it and if not I’ll bring up in a week or so if I can’t find it in the next couple of days. I will update with further developments.
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If the cables are intact and you roll back the throttle how can the bike over-rev?
Has it ever backfired?
My V7III backfired one day and blew the throttle body apart, this wasn't obvious.
When I finally got it to start it would rev up (air leaking in) then idle for a while (as throttle body sucked together)
It was only a year into its warrantee so I dropped it off at the dealership, they discovered the air leak,
I assume they fixed it in 5 minutes with a screwdriver.
I felt like a fool lol.
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I pulled the tank off completely from the Guzzi. Can someone explain this to me?
(https://i.ibb.co/Yh1RJvb/15-E79-BFD-5-AF0-441-C-9-D12-C0539-B88189-F.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Yh1RJvb)
I’m checking everything I can. I’d just like to say Af1 is coming to pick the bike up tomorrow it looks like. I’m impressed just want to say the customer service is outstanding.
The houston dealer it seems left this with one of the breather hoses to the tank detached. It seems other things are missing screws but I can’t verify yet.
(https://i.ibb.co/94wcR2m/F4-A06013-CD54-4402-8-EC2-9-D54-F6955026.jpg) (https://ibb.co/94wcR2m)
2014 bmw 535i 0 60 (https://statewideinventory.org/bmw-0-60-times)
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Hope AF1 comes thru today, if their service dept is anything like their online retail shop you're in the best of hands.
Sarah
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Met Af1 delivery driver in Houston today. They picked up the bike and promptly emailed when the delivery driver got to Austin with it. If your gonna buy a Guzzi or have it worked on go to MPH or have Af1 work on it if your in the Houston area.
Will update as I find out more. Big thank you to DaveDel as he facilitated a trailer and a lot of his time to help me out today to get the bike to Houston. I can already tell with Af1 being so prompt to communicate this Gonna be much better.
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I only know AF1 Racing by purchasing (LOTS of) Ural parts from them. Their customer service is outstanding and they communicate very well. The ONE time (out of many) there was a minor problem with an order, they went out of their way to expedite the shipping of the replacement part.
If this attitude is found throughout their organization, you are in good hands.