Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Mayor_of_BBQ on April 25, 2022, 07:13:43 AM
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Hi all!
Yes, first off I KNOW 'they will just turn blue again'
When I first got my ambo running I made the mistake of riding it with the brand new MG Cycle repro header pipes on it before I had the carbs sorted.
Within a couple hundred miles of shakedown, one pipe (left) began to blue at the bend, while the other did not. This was great, because it helped me figure out the carb tuning needed attention, but not so good because one pipe got a massive headstart in the bluing process...
Now that the bike is running well and all that nonsense is figured out, I would like to clean the bluing off and kind of 'reset' the process so that the pipes blue and age together consistently. As it sits now, looks like something is wrong with the bike, cause one pipe is fully blue and the other still looks perfect (about 1,200mi since the rebuild at this point)
I have tried:
1. 'Chrome stick' (this thing looks like a tiny deodorant stick- got it at the harley dealership)
2. Wizard's Metal polish (the pre-moistened pink cloth that smells real good)
3. Blue Job Chrome Polish (a powder from Amazon with many high ratings)
None of these have budged it a bit... if anything they just made the pipe 'shiny blue' instead of 'dull blue'
Can anyone name a product that will actually remove the bluing from a chromed steel header pipe with hand buffing/elbow grease?
left side: blue
(https://i.imgur.com/hboJDMS.jpg)
right side: not blue
(https://i.imgur.com/TVNEESX.jpg)
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Good luck!
I have the same issue with my 83 CB1000C Honda.
The owner owner at some point in time let it idle to long or ran it with the choke on for an extended time.
I’ve tried everything the market has to offer.
Severe blueing is a condition in the metal itself and there’s apparently nothing to remove.
I guess we’ve just got to live with it and get on with more riding and less looking 🤔
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Bradford derustit wonder gel. But unless you have dual wall headers the discoloration will come back in short order.
(https://i.ibb.co/6Dfsx4Y/wonder-gel-8-oz-bottle.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6Dfsx4Y)
Thanks P14 for the suggestion.
Have you actually used it and can confirm it will remove the blueing that’s in the metal?
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Let nature take its course. The only way to stave off blueing is double walled pipes or stainless and even that discolors to a nice straw brown. Titanium goes rainbow. Personally, I have never disliked the effect. The inner wall of the doubles can get so hot as to buckle inward and choke off the exhaust.
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I have no problem with blueing
I know it will come back if I polish it off
I am only asking because the two pipes are very disparate colors, and I want them to blue over time at the same rate to essentially match instead of 1 shiny chrome and 1 very blue
I feel like I already explained that in detail
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If you want them to blue at the same rate you need to get the cylinders to burn fuel at the same rate. If one is bluing faster there is an imbalance.
Do ya'll read these posts or just the thread titles?
As I stated in the first post of this thread:
When I first got my ambo running I made the mistake of riding it with the brand new MG Cycle repro header pipes on it before I had the carbs sorted.
Within a couple hundred miles of shakedown, one pipe (left) began to blue at the bend, while the other did not. This was great, because it helped me figure out the carb tuning needed attention, but not so good because one pipe got a massive headstart in the bluing process...
Now that the bike is running well and all that nonsense is figured out, I would like to clean the bluing off and kind of 'reset' the process so that the pipes blue and age together consistently.
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I have nothing new to offer, other than a congratulations on a very nice looking loop! Gorgeous, blue pipe and all ! :thumb:
Rick Duarte
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Thanks P14 for the suggestion.
Have you actually used it and can confirm it will remove the blueing that’s in the metal?
Dan, we might have to throw in together on this stuff and share custody of the bottle... it's $70 for 8oz!!! and I only need about a tablespoon! :whip2:
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Ok here's a thought, set the other carb to let the clean header catch up to the blue one. If looking the same is the end goal, it may justify the method.
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Dan, we might have to throw in together on this stuff and share custody of the bottle... it's $70 for 8oz!!! and I only need about a tablespoon! :whip2:
I’m in.
Wife ordered a bottle of the stuff, 100.00 bucks. Hopefully there’s a refund guarantee in case it don’t work.
If it works I’ll send it to you👍
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There used to be a product called Blue Away, past tense as I don’t see it available anywhere. It would remove the blue at the expense of the shine. I would be surprised if anything will remove the blue without damaging the finish.
Pete
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I’m just not convinced that when a metal gets so hot that it turns blue that there’s anything that can be rubbed off with any product??
For 100 bucks, I hope I’m wrong.
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Pipes been blue at the first bend from the heads since almost new on my fuel injected 2013 V7R. Always kinda liked that titanium blue look.
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I called the product company BRADFORD DERUSTIT, company and inquired about a warranty.
The rep I spoke with advised no and inquired as to the use I was attempting to do.
I advised remove blueing from a motorcycle chrome exhaust header.
The rep was honest and told me the product would not just remove the blueing but also the chrome and that re-caroming would be necessary.
Therefore as I thought, There is no way to just remove blueing from a chrome exhaust header. One of a few options.
Re/chrome
Replace
Wrap
Or as I’m going to do, ignore it.
(https://i.ibb.co/q1Fj2xB/7-D3-A1-E47-4508-44-F0-A001-7-B688781-F7-AE.jpg) (https://ibb.co/q1Fj2xB)
I canceled the order Mayor.
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I used Mothers Mag polish and a long piece of cheese cloth rolled into a narrow strip, wrapped around the pipe, and with a bit of elbow grease I was able to remove the bluing on my one header pipe. After adjusting the valves correctly, came VERY tight, they are now more or less even.
Scott
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Hi all!
Yes, first off I KNOW 'they will just turn blue again'
Now that the bike is running well and all that nonsense is figured out, I would like to clean the bluing off and kind of 'reset' the process so that the pipes blue and age together consistently. As it sits now, looks like something is wrong with the bike, cause one pipe is fully blue and the other still looks perfect (about 1,200mi since the rebuild at this point)
My 2¢....
You have a very nice lookin' bike! If you can't get the bluing off to your satisfaction, buy a new pipe or a pair and sell the takesoffs. I'd be satisfied with a nice used pair (like yours) for a price I couldn't refuse. I'm sure others here would be happy to make you an offer for your potential takeoffs. The downside I see is MG cycle is showing no stock on the chromed pairs right now.
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The reason double skinned headers were invented was because there is no realistic way to remove or control bluing long term.
Ciao
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This was great, because it helped me figure out the carb tuning needed attention, but not so good because one pipe got a massive headstart in the bluing process...
Now that the bike is running well and all that nonsense is figured out, I would like to clean the bluing off and kind of 'reset' the process so that the pipes blue and age together consistently.
I've got the same situation on my T3. What did you do to better balance the carbs? Both plugs look the same color - I thought that indicates the same mixture and burning temp (thus same exh. header temp).
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I've got the same situation on my T3. What did you do to better balance the carbs? Both plugs look the same color - I thought that indicates the same mixture and burning temp (thus same exh. header temp).
"Reading" plugs for the purpose of determining mixtures on a road engine is pretty much a waste of time and you can't realistically use header blueing as a reference for cylinder tuning or balance between cylinders. Cylinders can run at varying EGT's even with the same qty of fuel injected to both and the balance correct at idle. On top of that when is the bluing occurring? at Idle? at 5% throttle cruising around the country roads? at 8% throttle at 60mph on the freeway? Then there is the variation in the chrome itself to consider. The only way to have any meaningful information with regards to EGT is to fit each header with an EGT probe and log or display the readings. My Daytona engine runs fine, idles fine and is balanced nicely and has around a 20 deg difference in header temps at idle. No big deal. That extra 20 deg may be all thats needed to blue one header more/faster than the other.
Ciao
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Ceramic Coating.
You can get it in a chrome-like finish.
Cleans with a damp rag.
Will not 'blue'.
Worked a treat on the SS headers on my Honda.
G
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Thanks for all the responses, looks like I will just wait for them to even out over time
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Well this is probably a retarded idea, but I did this decades ago on a Bonneville that for some not remembered reason, blued one pipe a bunch more than the other. I broke out the oxy/acetylene torch and carefully heated the lesser blued pipe until it matched the other. YMMV.
Larry
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Well this is probably a retarded idea, but I did this decades ago on a Bonneville that for some not remembered reason, blued one pipe a bunch more than the other. I broke out the oxy/acetylene torch and carefully heated the lesser blued pipe until it matched the other. YMMV.
Larry
That’s the best way, anything that takes the blue off will dull the chrome. I knew a guy who had a T that the pipes had perfectly matching blue, people wondered at it and figured he was a master tuner, which he was but that’s how he did it.
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Thanks for all the responses, looks like I will just wait for them to even out over time
Until then, you can park your pretty Ambo next to one of my crappier bikes with the darker pipe towards my bike. Then you could just say it's a bad reflection....
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Mark at MG Classics coats the INSIDE of the headers with high temp paint when NEW. It prevents the usual bluing later.
I have also seen them ceramic coated (Cerakote) with “chrome”, and it looks pretty damn nice. Not that expensive.
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Well this is probably a retarded idea, but I did this decades ago on a Bonneville that for some not remembered reason, blued one pipe a bunch more than the other. I broke out the oxy/acetylene torch and carefully heated the lesser blued pipe until it matched the other. YMMV.
Larry
This guy gets it!
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New here but had Harleys in a past life(sorry).
Barkeepers Friend on a damp cloth. Easy, fast and causes no damage at all. Just did it on my 73 Sport(I know, blasphemy). No it’s not a trophy, and I don’t mind the patina but just got it and figured I’d give it a clean(er) start again.
Mine are uneven.. more on the right but figured maybe because the pipe downturn is closer on that side or messed up mixture in the past. Might still be an issue but the damn thing runs awesome so not worried, I’ll adjust if necessary down the road.
Also use it on any bare metal… fenders, bars, controls. Stuff is made to remove discoloration and from from pots and pans… but for almost anything metal, and even some more… it’s a miracle.
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Wow. Such a nice bike. Stunning. Blue pipes? Didn't notice.
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I've only done this a couple times, but this works.
https://shop.dursol.com/collections/motorrad/products/autosol%C2%AE-anti-blau?fbclid=IwAR3274jVOA-qLG8YHkkBeAhcqOyNlzuj9x-0nlssCw2QHrck7j2GeTQw7PI
I have one CYL on my XS1100 that blued one of the 4 pipes. Didn't realize I had a mixture issue till I put on a cheap set of MAC pipes. The OEM's were double walled, and never showed, but the MAC pipes were single walled and one blued. The others were fine.
I for the most part however, don't worry about stuff like that, but I will likely go over all the chrome on the Convert when I put the newly painted parts on. Figure she should look as good as possible at least for a little while.