Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: bad Chad on June 04, 2022, 05:04:38 PM
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I used to run 29ish in the front, and 30-32 in the rear, mainly because that's what my dad said worked best for heavy bikes.
I have since, come to the conclusion that for general riding on any modernish Guzzi, 32F 35R is a better all around pressure, better tire life being the big gain.
I found running pressure close to mfg recomendations, seems to work best, don't you think?
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1976 Convert
Avon Road rider 110/90/18 F/R
32F 34R
Solo ridden
Vetter fairing
Stock saddle bags
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You could ask Chuck Peterson about new tires on an old v700 running the V700 tire pressures with new tires wasn't a pleasant experience
TOMB
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36 front and back Centauro and Cali Stone
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I run anywhere between 32 and 38. I try to get the front and back about the same. I don't put a lot of thought into it.
-AJ
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I like 40/40 as a starting point, on my bikes...all weigh about 550 lbs, running Pilot Road 4's...seems to be the sweet spot.
I'm ok if the front drifts down to 36, but below that I add some air.
Having a TPMS installed allows me to check that PSI goes up 10% on both front and rear on hot days, which is just fine...seems to be the optimal combo of stickiness and mileage on my bikes (Norge, Griso, Scura).
Maybe some of the lighter bikes run lower PSI...not sure.
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I put recommended pressures in my phone for each bike so that I don’t have to keep reading the sidewalls. Then I don’t look at my phone and just shoot for 32 on all the bikes.
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I put a label on the handlebar of each bike with the min/max F/R.
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If you run TPMS its easier to work out, on my Eldo if I run 36 in the rear after an hour it may have climbed to 47 if I set it at 40 after an hour may have increased to 45. I have converted all my bikes to tubeless and depending on bike around 37 front and 40ish on rear , I get good tyre mileage and am happy with wear. I dread to think how much tube type must increase running at a low pressure. I think tire pressure is a personal thing depending on engine power and how spirited you ride. Its the rear that does all the work front tyres remain more stable and can be run lower, also ambient temperature, road surface and how heavy the bikes laden all play a part. MTBW
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I’m re-tired (snicker) from tired pressure threads when i found my two dial gauges read 4 pounds off from each other. That threw all theories out of the garage window
However…
The damn NAPA $8.99 pencil gauge takes new top shelf honors. It even reads in 1/10ths if you can believe it.
Re the v700 I believe I kept raising the pressures when I needed to drop them..there was a tiny wiggle at speed from the front end..just a small (ahem) one…
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I tend to like to run my tire pressure a little harder than normal...but that's just me :wink: :cool: :thumb:
* 1998 Centauro GT - 38F / 40R for around town....for trips packed with gear....40F / 42R...
* 2014 Victor Vision Tour - 40F / 42R - all the time, because it is such an 871 pound whale... :rolleyes: :shocked:
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That's so old school, I prefer 2245.16 hectopascals front and rear with my blend of nitrogen, helium, argon. krypton and radon. Dried to a minus 114 degree dew point at 2 bar. I'm finding the radon under my house is depleting so Ill look for an alternative soon.
Paul B :boozing:
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That's so old school, I prefer 2245.16 hectopascals front and rear with my blend of nitrogen, helium, argon. krypton and radon. Dried to a minus 114 degree dew point at 2 bar. I'm finding the radon under my house is depleting so Ill look for an alternative soon.
Paul B :boozing:
Helium is starting to become in short supply...better stock up while you can! :thumb: :thumb:
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Thanks for this. I was apparently being lazy - I was running my air through dehumidifying coils and a desiccant can, then re-humidifying with distilled deuterium vapor. I'm sure my tread life has suffered as a result, to say nothing of safety!
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I start with the manufacturers recommended tire pressures.
Where I go from their depends on my intended use. The 10/20 percent rule works well for spirited or heavily laden riding. Lowering the pressures for sand and mud works well. Max sidewall pressure if trying to eek out the most fuel economy, while riding economically.
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Depends! Tube or tubeless?
I used to run tubes in tubeless tires for extra safety, and then compensate for the extra un-sprung weight by filling them with the aforementioned helium blend. But as PJPR01 noted, helium is becoming scarce. So nowadays I run without the tubes, but before inflating I wash the tires with a 3.2% glycerine solution. This relaxes the rubber slightly to allow for even expansion under inflation, thus avoiding any potential for weak spots developing.
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The conservative riding I do makes it a non issue, but I generally shoot for 30 front, 35 rear.
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The book says from memory about 32 front, 34 rear on the Breva.
I tend to run about 36 both unladen. The little Breva is a bit susceptible to tar snakes so front is raised a bit and it feels a lot better. Up to 38 rear with a load on for touring.
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Not too hard really.
Use Michelin Pilot 6’s and stuff 40 psi into them, confident in the knowlege that anything else won’t be as good… :popcorn:
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The conservative riding I do makes it a non issue, but I generally shoot for 30 front, 35 rear.
How often do you check/replace the power steering fluid ?
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40 and 40 ,better mileage harder ride on bad roads,lower pressure,softer ride,I guess.
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Used to run 30 in the front 34 in the back on my Cal. Saw here some time ago that most found the bike rode better with higher pressures. Run 32 in the front 36 in the back now. The Monster specs are 32 and 36 also. Rides nice with the Roadsmart III's that I put on.
Larry
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According to Grant at Horizons Unlimited:
Check/set your cold tire pressure and go for a ride, fifteen minutes or longer. Check your tire pressure; if correct it will be 4 psi higher than before the ride. If more that 4 psi higher your cold pressure is too low. If less that 4 psi higher your pressure is too high.
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What happens if you riding in the rain or if you keep you bikes in a heated garage then go out for a ride when its 20 degrees? As for "the ride" what type of riding should you do to calculate if see if you have the proper starting pressure? Aggressive riding 15 minutes TOTD type stuff or 15 minutes of casual riding 45 MPH 2 lane back road riding. Doing either the same tire will be a very different temp when checked.
That is why when riding tight technical twisties I put ice water in the tars to keep them form over heating and the cubes act like dynabeads for perfect balance. Then when you get to where you are going you have a nice cold drink ready to dispense out of the Schrader.
Do the test rides at the speed/tempo that you normally ride. If you do both casual and spirited rides you should test both.
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How often do you check/replace the power steering fluid ?
I keep it full.
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I find it interesting how recommended tire pressures have risen through the years. I think my R75/5 recommended tire pressures were 27 front, 32 rear. It seems now running recommended pressures result in a harsh ride. I swear I could feel the difference in running over a dime compared to a nickel. Roads are rough where I live so I run my tire pressures at the lower end of the practical range. The nearest four lane road is over an hour away so I do little high speed riding. I don’t care about tire life especially now as I can't wait to get the crappy tires off my V7lll, the tires on my new Bonneville aren't much better. It also has a radial on the rear and a bias ply on the front.
kk
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Interesting thread. Something to consider-depending on the bike, the older they are the more conservative the rake is, putting less weight on the front. Cruisers follow that trend. So what?
My Monster is very sensitive to front tire pressure changes. You notice a five lb difference because it has a bit more weight on the front/steeper rake. I notice the same on my Buell. My older bikes- Triumph, Velocette, not so much. I run the tire pressure displayed on the sidewall and adjust from there.
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I start with the recommended stock settings and go from there.
This can change with tires. For example, the stock Stornello front tire, I needed to run at 32 and lower or the front was too twitchy. When I put on the Shinko 705's, I found the opposite and the 32 low pressure made the tire grabby. 36-38 is best.
Some bikes are pretty oblivious to tire pressure, some are very sensitive. The GRiSO feels like a fat unyielding pig when not running at 36F/38R.
It is (for me) a process of learn and adjust. When I fined the sweet spot I steal the wife's label maker and print it on a tape and stick to the bottom of the seat because I cant remember anything, and 6 motorcycles and 4 cars can get confusing. Thankfully 34-36F and 38-40R is common for 4 bikes and 1 car.
It is all about feel for me.
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I found running pressure close to mfg recomendations, seems to work best, don't you think?
I start with Manufacturer's suggested PSI, but use the 10% Rule to dial it in to my load and riding conditions.