Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Piston Broke on August 18, 2022, 10:42:27 AM
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I am often reminded that I am not an electrician but this one is aggravating because it should have been simple. I installed a new right handlebar switch on my '76 T-3 which consists of four simple wires, three of which pass through a Molex connector into the headlight bucket and one wire to ground. As of now the starter button works and the engine is turning over but won't start. I don't think I'm getting spark which leads me to believe the kill switch has not been wired correctly(how? It's two fricken wires!). As you can see from the images, one wire goes to the ignition key and one goes to the coil. When the kill switch is depressed(engine stop), there is continuity between those wires. I have so many questions but what are yours to help me get this girl running again? I did a frame off rebuild last year and now two wires are kicking my butt!
(https://i.ibb.co/fDgKnPx/IMG-1588.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fDgKnPx)
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(https://i.ibb.co/vXfTGR8/IMG-1589.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vXfTGR8)
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On my T3 the two wires have to be connected to turn on the ignition and separate to shut it down.
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That Emgo switch has a backwards logic compared to the T3's OEM switch. You need continuity for the motor to run, since the power to the coils goes through that switch.
You simply need to put your switch into the kill position to get continuity. Think of it as a anti theft device!
Moto
I see Ron just gave you the right information. His advice applies to all T3's, not just his.
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If I'm reading this right, You would want continuity in the run position, not in the stop. Could the switch be for a magneto where you ground the mag to stop it?
Tom
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I share your logic but I can't get it to start no matter if the switch is engaged or disengaged. It all worked fine before I replaced this switch.
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I share your logic but I can't get it to start no matter if the switch is engaged or disengaged. It all worked fine before I replaced this switch.
Run a voltmeter between frame ground and coil hot to see if you are getting 12 VDC at the coil when the system key is turned ON and switch is in RUN position.
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That Emgo switch has a backwards logic compared to the T3's OEM switch. You need continuity for the motor to run, since the power to the coils goes through that switch.
You simply need to put your switch into the kill position to get continuity. Think of it as a anti theft device!
Moto
I see Ron just gave you the right information. His advice applies to all T3's, not just his.
This. The kill switch on all of these systems *that I know of* simply breaks the circuit from the key to the coils.
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This. The kill switch on all of these systems *that I know of* simply breaks the circuit from the key to the coils.
And it's not a bad idea to wire in a relay to take the load off of the switch.
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He might not have continuity from the positive to the kill switch. You may need to run a wire from your positive to the kill switch for it to even work backwards…
See if you have voltage between ground and your kill switch wire with key on.
I did this a few years ago on a T3.
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And it's not a bad idea to wire in a relay to take the load off of the switch.
Agreed. Those are wimpy little contacts.