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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: wirespokes on June 21, 2023, 12:51:24 PM
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I just bought a 2003 Cali hydro with a bad engine. It's got everything to put it back together, but for one little detail. The bike sat out for ten years under a carport with cylinders and sump off. The crank journal is rusty. :rolleyes:
The rest of the bike is pretty nice, so I've got the choice of replacing the crank or swapping in a '97 1100 Engine. What do you think - is there any problem swapping in the 97?
What's a good used crank worth?
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No need for a new crank. Have the rusty journal ground undersize and fit new rod bearing shells. The shop that does mine charges $150.
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You might have an issue with temperature sensors. The older motor probably has an oil mist temp sensor in the left valve cover. The newer motor will have a very different sensor embedded into the casting of the right cylinder head. So the connectors and wire lengths will be very different. Swapping the heads would solve that. Since you are down to the crank, a head swap doesn't sound like much.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
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Thanks guys!
In the meantime I took a little well-used crocus cloth (not much bite left) and polished the journal. The corrosion went away quickly leaving some minor etching I can't feel with a finger nail. It's only about 1/4" strip across the journal. The rest of it looks almost perfect. I'm happy with that and will go with it.
The story is that the PO (who I bought it from) bought it new. At that time it had supposedly had the upgrade kit installed. He rode it 60K and the cam disintegrated.
So now it has a new cam (It's not rusty, thank goodness!) and the valve springs replaced. Hard to imagine why the thing sat outside with the cylinder ports open and the sump off. I'd have cut plastic bits to fit over the openings and duct taped them on. Who knows?? But that's the way it is (was).
Now I'll need to read up on the hydros so I can put it back together. I'm a little concerned having heard all the stories about them.
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I would like to hear how this works out :popcorn:
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I would like to hear how this works out :popcorn:
Yeah, I hear you. Do I feel lucky??? Well do I?? (Don't know...)
The more I read, the more I feel like I should just replace the engine. But on the other hand these things are supposed to be wonderful once sorted.
I'm curious - are the hydro cams different than normal cams? I'd think so, that'd make sense to me. But I'd like to know for sure.
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Before throwing in the towel on the original engine, I would finish cleaning the journal, with a final polish with crocus cloth, then mic the journal. If it's in spec, I would use it. YMMV.
Larry
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Didn't the older engines use dual timing sensors? One in the timing chest and another at the flywheel?
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That's my plan, Larry. The journal did polish up nicely and looks great. I'm going with it.
Timing sensors - dual timing sensors... oh man. Electronics, that's why I've stuck with the older bikes without sensors and brains and fuel pumps and injectors and all those troubles. But here I am now, so I'll wade in and figure this one out.
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He rode it 60K and the cam disintegrated.
When the cam disintegrated, bits of metal went through the oil pump and hopefully caught by the filter. You might wish to strip the oil pump for debris or damage inspection.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
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if the electronics get too much you can always whack two PHM40s on there and make spark at the crank in front of the alternator.
My cal 1100 runs beautifully so equipped.
Pm me for jetting if you do.
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Cool project! A hydro with carbs and the belt drive cam (from another thread). Maybe bored out and exhaust tinkered with. Beetle for mapping and you have a rare one still as good as ever!
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You guys are making me feel better about this project more and more. :thumb:
I haven't fooled with an oil pump yet, though it doesn't seem like a big deal. Just pull the front cover. Right? No biggie.
Belt drive cam? Is that stock? Guess I'll find out when the front cover is off.
I've got a set of 40Dells - what's involved mounting them? Will they slip onto the FI intakes?
I'm amazed by the amount of chrome on this thing - even the final drive is chromed. And there are places where the chrome is chipped off and the aluminum shows black. I suppose if it's kept clean it shouldn't be a problem. Don't like the idea of corrosion creeping under the chrome and bubbling it up. Ugly!
But that hasn't happened yet. I'm sure it seemed like a good idea to protect the metal, but I'm not a fan of chromed aluminum.
One other thing - the swingarm. it's miles long. Is there a shorter one that could be swapped in?
After checking out some of the custom builds using EVs (what does EV stand for?) I'm feeling better about this project. The first step is put the engine back together and get it running. I've read up some on these engines and have a few questions:
1. What's involved with shimming the valve springs? New ones have been installed, but I'd better check the work was done right.
2. I've read the valve lash needs to be set. What's the spec? Set and forget? Or is there a service interval? And, along that line, how are you supposed to set the lash if the adjusters have been snapped off? That would indicate it's a one time thing. Right?
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Endless information--------------------------------
https://guzzitek.org/atelier/gb/1100/California1100_Atelier_Compil.pdf
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what does EV stand for?
Evoluzione, or evolution. The '98 had a whole bunch of changes introduced at once that substantially upgraded the California in the eyes of many buyers and particularly the press.