Wildguzzi.com
General Category => Bike Builds, Rebuilds And Restorations Only => Topic started by: Canuck750 on December 16, 2023, 05:16:45 PM
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This summer I met the fellow who started the Rocky Mountain Giro in Nakusp BC and we got talking about Motobi/Benelli egg motor bikes. I had rebuilt a spare 250 4-speed motor and was interested in finding a rolling chassis to form the start of another Giro bike, in this case it needs to be 250 cc or smaller and 1969 or older.
The fellow had some spares I could take a look at, when I went out to his place he offered me a nearly complete 1969 125 Sport Special, identical to the 250 Sport Special except for the motor. I bought this project and am in deep restoring it, the paint is original and will be saved. The stainless fenders cleaned up real nice and the frame parts have been powder coated. These port Specials have 18" wheels front and back, clip-on bars and a gas tank and seat unique to this model, 1969 ~ 70 only I believe and very few imported to North America.
(https://i.postimg.cc/y83CHM3Y/IMG-7536.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RWmD1bTj)
(https://i.postimg.cc/L6XMyYHP/IMG-7537.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8sq3cCfk)
the 5 speed bikes have a wider swing arm and rear hub as the engine drive sprocket sits further from the motor on the 5 speed bikes. I was able to modify the rear hub, sprocket carrier and brake plate to bring the sprockets into alignment with the wheel about 6 mm off center. I will try and offset the hub in the wheel to accommodate that.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Wz7Vj1qM/IMG_7793.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/m1hJyRwD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/C500Wq5h/IMG_7794.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5YsDzj8T)
Plenty of work to do over the winter, wheel building, seat re-upholstery, source exhaust, re-wire, etc....
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That's going to turn out nice !
Oh and as usual, we'll need more pictures !
:bike-037:
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Man, Jim, you live on a slippery slope. That’s another great looking bike. I’ll be watching.
Curious about the smooth top triple tree. Is it alloy or stamped steel painted argent?
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Man, Jim, you live on a slippery slope. That’s another great looking bike. I’ll be watching.
Curious about the smooth top triple tree. Is it alloy or stamped steel painted argent?
Hello Clint,
The triple trees are alloy, painted silver, I couldn’t find a powder colour I liked locally so I used POR-15 stainless steel in a spray bomb, this POR-15 paint is the toughest stuff I have found that is almost as durable as powder.
I just ordered the exhaust from Detlef Burian at Benelliparts.de. Plus a few other small things that were missing. I found new polished alloy flanged rims; 1.85 x 18” from the Jawa Shop in the Czech Republic, for the air including delivery, under $150 US.
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This bike is so cool! Finding one in restorable shape is very rare indeed. Fabulous
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This bike is so cool! Finding one in restorable shape is very rare indeed. Fabulous
Thanks Dave!
You know I am a sucker for anything Italian, I keep being attracted to these small displacement bikes. When I saw the quality of the original paint I knew it was coming home with me.
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A couple parts came in the mail, new fork seals (4) and a pair of reproduction dust caps, these Marzocchi forks are the same as on my 1972 Benelli 170 Enduro, they take 160 ml of fork oil.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1tTQSCfT/IMG-7723.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/njv5Y1KY)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3NvHxXGw/IMG-7726.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zH8QdR0m)
Cleaned the headstock loose balls, fresh grease and fitted the triple clamps, the headlight brackets were polished along with the clip-ons
(https://i.postimg.cc/h46DRjmj/IMG_7730.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vD7FWG3F)
polished up the scratched fenders with a wool wheel in my 4" hand grinder, man do these FaceBook advertised polishing wheels do the job with a green wax stick, so much easier to hold the fender between my knees and move the polisher back and forth rather than holding the fender while I move it across a bench top polisher.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Z5F4NxMB/IMG_7729.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v4BJFfMb)
some pretty deep scrapes in the rear fender but its much better than it was, I think just a finishing polish will smarten them up for good
(https://i.postimg.cc/s2jy4Gkn/IMG_7728.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v4NpQTH9)
The chromed spring bands that wrap over the fork dust caps are in pretty bad shape, I need to find some reproductions.
I did order some new '250 Sport Special' side panel decals and a new gel battery that matched the size and look of the original and new 6v headlight and tail light bulbs from B&B Mechanica in Italy - they use the Ebay name 'Bebricambi' plenty of vintage Italian motorcycle parts, new and used on their Ebay store.
Time to move the 'project' to the lift bench before it gets any heavier to lift of the table.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9fL28FVc/IMG_7727.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yJ32WKkG)
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I got most of the electrical redone over the past couple days, made a new wire harness with new wire from British Wiring and new open barrel crimps. I was lucky to source a new CEV ignition cut out switch. Waiting on lots of parts to arrive; rims, piston pin, gaskets, head to come back from the machine shop, exhaust coming from Europe, seat from the local
Upholstery shop, new shock springs, speedometer … etc.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Y9KBWW16/IMG_7774.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R3RYrqph)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nrn8dfSM/IMG_7781.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/62b13gXN)
(https://i.postimg.cc/DwNT7D0Y/IMG_7787.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YvQV3d11)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BQqspHRN/IMG_7790.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/z3P9XbzR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/25qCvYgD/IMG_7795.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hJBFWkSy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XJd3H8V1/IMG_7796.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yg1wW030)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YCDph0nR/IMG_7792.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rDW6HVLR)
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I am always pleasantly surprised what NOS parts continue to turn up, William Kuhen - Ebay seller 'Santo Di Motocieli' has listed some hard to find NOS Benelli, Motobi, Aermacchi etc parts over the years, I got this new in the box speedometer from him this week, fair price and suoer fast shipping.
(https://i.postimg.cc/HxJfXq90/IMG_7829.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9Rh8jNSz)
I replaced the 125 Sport Special side cover decals with '250 Sport Special' reproductions to go along with the 250 motor I have fitted. the original chrome plating has polished up nicely, the condition of the original copper paint continues to impress me
(https://i.postimg.cc/HLV7gFXZ/IMG-7833.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zLYfwtdK)
B&B Mechanica in Italy provided a new headlight trim and reproduction battery along with the decals.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RhQWdmxF/IMG-7834.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V0vss36Q)
almost out of things to do while I wait on parts to come in, Buchanans's for new spoke nipples, Bennlei Parts.de for exhaust and a piston pin, springs for the rear shocks, the seat to be recovered .....
I had new stainless steel shock springs made, after polishing they turned out great.
(https://i.postimg.cc/c1kPSCFH/IMG_7855.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G9YXPLww)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8CdqQbYQ/IMG_7856.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mcDd77R8)
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I received my new stainless steel spoke kits from Buchanan’s on Friday, built a pair of wheels today.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZnD1LBkK/IMG-7956.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QK148MxR)
The original chrome plated steel Radeli rims are rusty and I don’t want to pay to have them rechromed. The aluminum rims I bought from the Jawa Shop in Czech Republic were cheap at $200 for the pair with shipping but the punched holes in the rims were too big for the original spokes nipples and too small for the new nipples Buchanan supplied. After speaking with Buchanan’s I was told to increase the rim holes to 7.5mm, they were about 7.35mm so it took a second to run the drill through each hole.
I covered the aluminum rims with masking tape as I hate scrapping rims assembly the spokes.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zf14pYQW/IMG-7948.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fVBHTpDT)
(https://i.postimg.cc/504Tdqb2/IMG-7954.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kVHfWS20)
The spokes were made about 6mm too long so after I tried the wheels a due grinder was used to flush the spoke to the nipple.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SN3B2M7g/IMG-7955.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vc7qCDKn)
The rims were probably punched for a bike with a larger hub as the spokes don’t fit all that great, they kink slightly at the nipple, it will work but I wish it were better. I could try and angle drill the hole in the rim but that could just weaken the whole wheel. You get what you pay for….
(https://i.postimg.cc/8P78zHWF/IMG-7957.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w7Y4WDwH)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BbvrD5VV/IMG-7958.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1nL71FPG)
The RaceTech front suspension upgrade kits arrived this afternoon, cartridge emulators and new springs, should make a difference.
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The wheel looks great! A major milestone complete. You are the only person that will ever notice the drilling is not perfect. :police:
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The wheel looks great! A major milestone complete. You are the only person that will ever notice the drilling is not perfect. :police:
Thanks Dave!
It bugs me to no end though, OCD issues.
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Thanks Dave!
It bugs me to no end though, OCD issues.
OCD works to the benefit of our bikes, but can certainly be annoying at times. :grin: I have a very slight lacing issue on one of my wheels that even I have a hard time seeing up close, but I know it's there. Ha
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I spoke with Matthew at RaceTech suspension a couple weeks ago, after discussing the potential to upgrade the Marzocchi 32mm forks he asked for pictures and dimensions of all the internal pieces. Matthew called me back and confirmed that he could supply new springs and cartridge emulators to bring the forks into this century.
$415 including shipping to Canada with excellent instructions and everything dialled in according to the bikes weight, intended use and my (over) weight.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QM3w95yF/IMG-7961.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9DLJs4V2)
Pretty simple to install, the lower damper rods need the four original bleed holes enlarged to 5.5mm and two more bleed holes drilled. The top of the damper rod needed the welded cap machines to fit the emulator and spacer supplied. Also supplied are plastic preload spacers that need to be cut flush with the top of the fork tube. Then just add 110mm of 15wt fork oil and it’s all done.
(https://i.postimg.cc/cHHkXf2D/IMG_7965.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7CFNLJx7)
(https://i.postimg.cc/4xkMs7Hd/IMG_7971.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xc5gPdRD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jjhB8x5j/IMG_7973.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/p9p0rtKN)
(https://i.postimg.cc/mr40NzTq/IMG_7975.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3kLS3w4C)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Nf3hFCSQ/IMG_7977.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YhzDyRtP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/5NLJBMwX/IMG_7979.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1fmbS27S)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Njxwn7CY/IMG_7981.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/75bcG7yQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/50Xd6c4N/IMG_7983.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xJVF44NW)
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Fantastic thread!
That is one of the coolest looking bikes I have ever seen, even prior to being restored.
In my next life, I want to do something similar.
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Fantastic thread!
That is one of the coolest looking bikes I have ever seen, even prior to being restored.
In my next life, I want to do something similar.
Thank you!
It’s a fun little bike, once I get the seat back from the upholstery shop it’s really going to start to come together.
I am shifting more to older small bike to restore, cheaper to buy and cheaper to restore than a big twin or multi. For actual riding around town I think a 250 - 350 is just right.
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It feels good to get it back on two wheels, without the brake shoes, I dropped them off yesterday for relining and arcing.
I got the new piston pin I was waiting on to install the cylinder, the original pin is playing hide and seek in my shop
(https://i.postimg.cc/Njj5LrNq/IMG_7988.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/crPsb6yX)
hose clamp ring compressor
(https://i.postimg.cc/q7tqxHV1/IMG_7989.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zLrqqMfh)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pLR1jP8t/IMG-7993.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LnQTKKNy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/mgsKSQvJ/IMG_7994.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pps0WnXJ)
The machine job installed the exhaust guide off center so the valve grind can not be done accurately, damn!! plenty of daylight shining through as a large crescent, it is so obviously not installed right
I put a 200 head on it to see if it would fit but the recess for the cylinder is much smaller on the 200.
Now I am hoping the machine shop can get the guide out and installed true, the guide was oversize and I don't think the machinist put a micrometer on it before he drove it though the head. I supplied the guides and just assumed the shop would measure them before installing them
(https://i.postimg.cc/rFSPzDDJ/IMG_7995.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rKwJPFC0)
(https://i.postimg.cc/WbRy2G1z/IMG_7996.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LhTDDZfF)
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Thanks Dave!
It bugs me to no end though, OCD issues.
Yes Jim, it just isn’t….”you…”
This is what I did to bore my Norge spoke holes from blank.
(https://i.ibb.co/m5tYq5M/IMG-4624.png) (https://ibb.co/m5tYq5M)
(https://i.ibb.co/t4RR4vh/IMG-4625.png) (https://ibb.co/t4RR4vh)
It guarantees the spoke will be STRAIGHT..!
Just the lightest lick will take the high point off the hole.
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Thanks Dave!
It bugs me to no end though, OCD issues.
Never buy a Ural. Sometimes the number of spokes in the hub is different from the number of holes in the rim...
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Yes Jim, it just isn’t….”you…”
This is what I did to bore my Norge spoke holes from blank.
(https://i.ibb.co/m5tYq5M/IMG-4624.png) (https://ibb.co/m5tYq5M)
(https://i.ibb.co/t4RR4vh/IMG-4625.png) (https://ibb.co/t4RR4vh)
It guarantees the spoke will be STRAIGHT..!
Just the lightest lick will take the high point off the hole.
What a cool tool!!
Did you make that or purchase it?
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What a cool tool!!
Did you make that or purchase it?
Just thought it up and built it.
If you sight down the hole where the drill goes, you’re looking straight at the point of the locating dowell at the other end, putting the drill through that hole means the nipple is sitting square in the chamfer.
You’ve to make sure that the locating dowell is placed where the bend in the spoke will be the the hub.
The semi circular end on the barrel ensures a centralised placement in the indentation. Absolutely imperative when boring a blank from scratch.
The first 1/8” hole required a sleeve in the barrel that stepped the size down to pilot diameter, then out with the sleeve and in with the final size to take the blind nipple.
Bingo…!
I’ll post it to you if you need it.
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Yes Jim, it just isn’t….”you…”
This is what I did to bore my Norge spoke holes from blank.
(https://i.ibb.co/m5tYq5M/IMG-4624.png) (https://ibb.co/m5tYq5M)
(https://i.ibb.co/t4RR4vh/IMG-4625.png) (https://ibb.co/t4RR4vh)
It guarantees the spoke will be STRAIGHT..!
Just the lightest lick will take the high point off the hole.
Very slick!
Good on ya Mate!
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Just thought it up and built it.
If you sight down the hole where the drill goes, you’re looking straight at the point of the locating dowell at the other end, putting the drill through that hole means the nipple is sitting square in the chamfer.
You’ve to make sure that the locating dowell is placed where the bend in the spoke will be the the hub.
The semi circular end on the barrel ensures a centralised placement in the indentation. Absolutely imperative when boring a blank from scratch.
The first 1/8” hole required a sleeve in the barrel that stepped the size down to pilot diameter, then out with the sleeve and in with the final size to take the blind nipple.
Bingo…!
I’ll post it to you if you need it.
Excellent work!
I am going to live with the way the spokes fit for now but if I ever decide to strip the wheels down I may ask for some measurements of your custom alignment tool to make one of my own
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Excellent work!
I am going to live with the way the spokes fit for now but if I ever decide to strip the wheels down I may ask for some measurements of your custom alignment tool to make one of my own
No worries.
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That is a really pretty wee bike there Jim. Nice to see it being brought back to pristine condition, and with a larger motor. :thumb:
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That is a really pretty wee bike there Jim. Nice to see it being brought back to pristine condition, and with a larger motor. :thumb:
Thanks Muzz!
I arced the relined brake shoes on my lathe after shimming the cam arm so the shoes are perpendicular to the brake plate. I welded up a simple tool from scrap metal I had to keep the shoes from rocking while spinning in the lathe. Two 6mm set screws snug up to the shoes and hold them from moving while the tool is trimming the lining. Should be decent stoppers.
A very experienced tech (50 years in the business) at a local brake shop that relined my shoes told me how to properly set the back plate in the lathe, shim the cam arm and secure the shoes to get the best performance out of the brakes.
(https://i.postimg.cc/NG1MQfkL/IMG_8048.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rzwcJTbL)But
(https://i.postimg.cc/4dc37JCL/IMG_8050.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LYHSGF8L)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wvwwNdhN/IMG_8053.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XGyKMm1N)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jSY4LjG9/IMG_8054.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3d9vq3rC)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LsYPDFKf/IMG_8055.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QBDVNPMx)
(https://i.postimg.cc/02Pps4DR/IMG_8056.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JtYy3PpP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/JztxfgC7/IMG_8058.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFGc5fMv)
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You guys are unbelievable. Imagine you, Dave and Charlie under one roof!
I lost interest in my “- purchased” Benelli 250SS, and sold it last fall. Went to a good guy, so I’m happy.
Cam
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You guys are unbelievable. Imagine you, Dave and Charlie under one roof!
I lost interest in my “- purchased” Benelli 250SS, and sold it last fall. Went to a good guy, so I’m happy.
Cam
Thanks Cam!
I finished the front end and then found a pretty cool upgrade for the front brake
(https://i.postimg.cc/mDV9m5cn/IMG_8079.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/622T3zfV)
Benell / Moto Guzzi used this double sided single leading shoe Grimeca brake on the early 250 cc two stroke twins, I think Ducati used one very similar on the 350 Desmo. Its got functioning vents on both brake plates, the stock Benelli brake 'vents' are fake.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QNkL9Yc4/IMG-8038.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I bought a reproduction exhaust from Detlef Burian in Germany www.benelliparts.de
Took a little trimming of the header pipe, about 4" too long to fit into the muffler
(https://i.postimg.cc/RVr3vWXw/IMG_8089.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DmgfgwVz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Y0QCvxbY/IMG_8090.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JH4Lgjwz)
A new 428 chain fitted
(https://i.postimg.cc/BvhL3NVv/IMG_8085.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cKn4M7Zq)
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I got this in the mail from the UK yesterday, a Grimeca double sided single leading shoe front brake, I spent an afternoon stripping off a horrible silver paint job smothered in soft clear urethane. Then sanding, still plenty of wet sanding and finishing plus getting the shoes relined.
(https://i.postimg.cc/k4QzWLY4/IMG_8168.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LYsxpQpK)
I think this will be a great upgrade
(https://i.postimg.cc/RZhk2shs/IMG_8174.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hXFZd09T)
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This just keeps getting better and better !
:thumb:
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Great score- I think you’ll like that four shoe grimeca, Jim. The bike is looking great!
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I got this in the mail from the UK yesterday, a Grimeca double sided single leading shoe front brake, I spent an afternoon stripping off a horrible silver paint job smothered in soft clear urethane. Then sanding, still plenty of wet sanding and finishing plus getting the shoes relined.
(https://i.postimg.cc/k4QzWLY4/IMG_8168.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LYsxpQpK)
I think this will be a great upgrade
(https://i.postimg.cc/RZhk2shs/IMG_8174.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hXFZd09T)
the 4LS grimeca might be a bit too much for the little benelli ,
the horrible paint is stock , i've got a new one somewhere in the shed , it came painted.
they are heavy , but apparently efficient.
I bought mine as a upgrade for the V7sport , but ended up fitting disks instead .
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The brake is a double sided single leading shoe. It was stock on the Benelli 250 twin two stroke with drum brakes (and the corresponding Moto Guzzi bade engineered model) the brake also came on the Ducati Mark 3.
I managed to finally get all the original paint off and the pieces sanded and initial polishing done.
I agree that a double sided Twin leading shoe drum brake would be overkill.
The swept area of the brake shoes is about identical between the stock single leading shoe front brake and this double sided single leading shoe brake but I suppose that both sides are single leading there may be some brake improvements.
Honestly I wanted it because the backing plate vents are functional and it looks cool. 😊
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Some progress on fitting a mechanical tach. I had a spare Benelli tach from my Benelli 650S restoration, the white face replica Veglia from India is as expected junk, the drive fitting thread is wrong, the glass came cracked, etc…
I bought an aluminum tach mount and Veglia 90 degree drive from Italy. The cable that came with the left side cover fits perfectly.
(https://i.postimg.cc/6p5sXFR4/IMG-8227.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qzYDcb1p)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qMGfWptd/IMG-8226.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZC0DdtFf)
(https://i.postimg.cc/JhG9yJp1/IMG-8225.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WDc9CDRK)
I now have to machine the left side cover from a 5 speed motor to fit this 4 speed engine. Not too much to shave off.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9McQ5LWx/IMG_8228.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/t1mjFtnP)
I owe Huzo credit for this Tim drilling idea, I bought another 18” front rim to fit to the double sided a Grimeca front brake hub. I made a 1/8” steel plate, formed to the diameter of the rim. Two steel bungs turned on the lathe with 10mm through hole. A removable sleeve that is 10mm outside diameter and 7.5 mm inside. A second sleeve that is 7.5 mm outside and 3.5mm inside. I used a piece of 3.5mm wire to form a spoke guide tool.
(https://i.postimg.cc/R0KnMGSm/IMG_8211.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DWfz6r4p)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HkKQWVbw/IMG_8215.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Yv64b2n0)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vT3VJBQ6/IMG_8214.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Cnn5DwnF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/50WLvT7j/IMG_8213.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kVw2P1dd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/T3HcykvW/IMG_8210.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fVmdpfLw)
I drill a 7.5 mm through hole for the nipple then remove the guide sleeve and drill the dimple 10mm just enough to seat the spoke. The rim is set into the jug on the plywood sheet and the hub is dropped over a 15mm shaft welded to a steel plate. The curved steel plate with the the two bungs welded in are for the inner and outer spokes, each have a slightly different angle.
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Thanks, Jim & Huzo. Great to see that jig in action.
I had wanted to build something like that over the years. Some rims like 4402 borranis found on HD Sprints, are similarly drilled just a little different than proper Borranis or Akronts for a Ducati Single. So the spokes flex just a little, like your earlier pics show. Never had a failure but such things bug me, too. I can see one of those jigs happening in my future.
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Thanks, Jim & Huzo. Great to see that jig in action.
I had wanted to build something like that over the years. Some rims like 4402 borranis found on HD Sprints, are similarly drilled just a little different than proper Borranis or Akronts for a Ducati Single. So the spokes flex just a little, like your earlier pics show. Never had a failure but such things bug me, too. I can see one of those jigs happening in my future.
The jig worked well, somethings I didn’t explain very well.
First I made the steel curved plate, lots of heat and bending it across an old 18” steel rim. I ran a piece of 3.5mm steel rod, 90 degree bend at one end that drops into the holes in the hub. The other end of the 3.5 mm dummy spoke passes through the rim, then I put the curved steel plate against the protruding end of the dummy spoke and marked the contact point, then I drilled a large hole through the plate. Next I placed the first hollow dowel with the 3.5mm ID over the dummy spoke and passed this through the big steel bung with the 10mm hole, from the other (outer side) I inserted the hollow dowel with a 10mm OD through the hollow bung and grabbing the dummy spoke and smaller hollow sleeve. I aligned all of these three pieces and dummy spoke I. The hole through the plate and when the dummy spoke was running entered through the rim I welded the bung to the plate, repeat for spokes running in opposite direction.
Then I once again passed the dummy spoke throttle rim with the small 7.5mm OD sleeve, push the curved plate up against the dummy spoke and from the outside push the hollow pin with the 7.5mm ID through, once the dummy spoke is centered I clamped the curved plate to the rim and a second clamp holding g the curved plate to the plywood base. Then remove the spoke and small sleeve and drill through the rim with a 7.5mm bit. The. Pull out the larger hollow sleeve and with a 10mm bit and just touch the dimple to make a seat for the nipple big end.
(https://i.postimg.cc/HszzmYSz/IMG_8208.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Tpygq6v5)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jdtcBwhC/IMG_8207.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5jK8CtTM)
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I got the tachometer sorted, the engine side cover needed the front back section milled down 7mm to fit this 4 speed motor.
(https://i.postimg.cc/xTYsZWmB/IMG_8256.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rznC0ZQ9)
The tach drive unit needed a slotted fitting on the end of the flywheel nut, I don’t have all the bits Benelli used so I just milled up a slotted and threaded insert that screwed into the tall flywheel nut.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wMYWgrGy/IMG_8253.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R6G1Tg94)
(https://i.postimg.cc/6qVM3hkH/IMG_8254.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sGXYH5DS)
The cable fits nicely and I am pretty happy with the way the tachometer position and mount turned out.
(https://i.postimg.cc/6p5sXFR4/IMG_8227.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qzYDcb1p)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qMGfWptd/IMG_8226.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZC0DdtFf)
(https://i.postimg.cc/JhG9yJp1/IMG_8225.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WDc9CDRK)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gjpKfZx3/IMG_8262.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R6PftqQ0)
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Looks fantastic!!!!
Nice work!!!
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Its getting serious now!
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I have made some progress with the Benelli 250, the upholstery shop finished the seat cover, an experienced craftsman with over 40 years experience who is also a motorcyclist and does a lot of work for vintage enthusiasts. The seat pan was powder coated and the foam was saved with just a top layer of new foam, the grab strap is not installed yet, he copied the heat stamped pattern of the original cover and I am quite pleased with the look
(https://i.postimg.cc/DZsbvZt5/IMG-8337.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/47f3wJ4h)
(https://i.postimg.cc/m2V4vj1g/IMG-8336.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QHBv5pq2)
I had repaired the stainless steel side bands by knocking flat the dents with a tiny brass punch, sanding the stainless smooth and polishing then fitting new stainless bolts and nuts
(https://i.postimg.cc/CxLDGwqL/IMG-8343.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dLpLvP6z)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qqmNv3vf/IMG-8345.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tnxqr76D)
The front brake is together, new aluminum rim, Buchanan's stainless spokes, the hub and brake plates took a lot of hours to sand out the pits and scratches and polish them up, the four brake shoes were relined and the shoes arced on the brake plates in my lathe.
As per the original Benelli design for securing the stays to the fork legs, the plates just slip over the cast lugs on the fork lower leg and the fender bracket acts as a stop to keep the stays in position, this is how Benelli designed the dual front brake on the Tornado 650S and the 250C - 2 stroke twin that used the dual sided drum brake.The thinking must have been that the greater mass of the cast lugs were stronger than loading the 6 mm diameter threaded studs that hold the front fender. Every photo I could find on-line where this dual sided front brake is fitted to an egg motor Benelli or Motobi uses this mounting design.
I drew the brake plate stays in AutoCAd and had the pieces water jet cut from 3/16" stainless steel
(https://i.postimg.cc/kM2tXjdD/IMG-8338.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Rqz0gLhz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/xTgNTB4r/IMG-8339.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bsDwmVPL)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rmWc7LxB/IMG-8342.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7GxpTdB9)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rpRLtLnD/IMG-8340.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1gSdLbZS)
I need to make up a pair of custom length front brake cables and I am going to machine a front brake lever dual cable perch to match the design used on the V7 Sport. The parts I got from Italy are pretty flimsy in my opinion and do not fit the cable adjuster in the lever perch nor does the cable holder really fit the lever. easy enough to make new pieces out of stainless steel to match the much better Moto Guzzi design.
(https://i.postimg.cc/NGPm6KcJ/s-l1600-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Wtgdjbtg)
I am waiting on a machine shop to repair the damage done to the cylinder head by the previous shop I had used. I had provided new custom made valve guides to be installed and the seats cut to the new valves provided. The shop failed to measure the outside diameter of the new guides and just drove them into the head, cracking the aluminum and setting the guides crooked. The shop told me I should have told them the guides may be over sized and either the head needed boring or the guides turned down to suit. I though a machinist should have actually measured the guides before just pressing them in!
After six weeks of trying to get the first shop to repair the head I just gave up and took the head to a new shop that will remove the guides, weld and bore the head and make new guides.
Very disappointing but sometimes I have to just move on and get the job finished.
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The first "machine" shop isn't qualified to work on lawn mower engines.
Sometimes you just wont be able to get satisfaction. Good on you for moving on.
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The progress looks great, Jim.
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The progress looks great, Jim.
Thanks Clint!
(https://i.postimg.cc/FHkJQhHV/IMG-8413.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5X1tBdvX)
I finished fabricating the dual brake cable lever parts, copied the Guzzi V7 Sport setup, the parts need zinc plating to finish it off. I used a 2.8 slitting saw blade to cut the cable paths in the dowels, I don't know what the steel composition is of the pieces I turned, but after two cuts with coolant the darn blade is dull. I just need to cut the cable ends and solder on brass ferrules
(https://i.postimg.cc/mDBcMMNm/IMG-8414.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Mc3KJnLB)
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I made up two cable ferrule ends today, I had a length of scrap 10mm diameter brass, turned down to 6.4mm, drilled a 2.7mm through hole, parted off at 7mm, opened up one end of the ferrule to 4mm.
(https://i.postimg.cc/kGSCbCk3/IMG-8417.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WqsCBBNX)
I am not too comfortable soldering cables, it seem the cable needs a lot of heat while the brass gets hot super quick, lots of flux and then solder
(https://i.postimg.cc/RVc9CM7w/IMG_8419.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F7swDXnK)
I think its a good solder joint?
(https://i.postimg.cc/BZP4y5tY/IMG_8420.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rzTBRr1x)
The 6.4mm ferrule just slides into the 6.5mm opening in the post
(https://i.postimg.cc/0yPvbLnF/IMG_8421.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tYSwcvLN)
and the two cables are finished
(https://i.postimg.cc/x152HtFC/IMG_8422.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VJJpPBwQ)
now if I could just get the damn head back from the second machine shop I could finish this bike and get to tuning it and final sorting
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I needed to zinc plate a couple small parts I made for the dual brake cable pull, I always send parts out to my local zinc plater who does very good work with a very quick turn around but for two parts I really didn't want to bother him. I have a Caswel power source and some plating supplies so I dug out the box and set up a small plating operation.
(https://i.postimg.cc/XvBzVDQW/IMG-8429.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/94Vpbb6g)
Plenty of YouTube videos on line showing variations on the process, I used plain white household vinegar and Epsom salt with a few drops of Caswel zinc brighter, warmed the solution in a microwave to about 120F. In the small container I used I put in about a tablespoon of salt.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fyV3FmM8/IMG-8428.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rRLFRd04)
The videos seem to adhere to between .2 and .4 amps, about 15 minutes. I experimented with higher volatage / amps and found 0.4 amps was working the best.
(https://i.postimg.cc/TPnKvTMX/IMG-8430.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CZLhjTxv)
The results are no where near as shiny as the professional work I get done but it will suffice in a pinch.
(https://i.postimg.cc/639nH87P/IMG-8432.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mc5Pk2y3)
at least it won't rust
(https://i.postimg.cc/QdJGTM7t/IMG-8434.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NKFzhBpq)
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The plating is a nice touch, Jim. So many original fasteners and pieces on the older Italian bikes were dull vs shiny. Those look great.
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Almost ready to start up the Benelli.
Mac D from New York State sent me a NOS head complete with guides! I reamed the guides and lapped in the new valves and it’s perfect. Amazing Mac had this NOS head wrapped in waxed paper from Cosmopolitan after all these years!!
(https://i.postimg.cc/bvTCTrY2/IMG-8460.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4KYQ4J9J)
(https://i.postimg.cc/VvSKmFqj/IMG-8466.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Fk4yx3nR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zG8j355t/IMG_8471.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mtpM6vPC)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yYcwRVR0/IMG-8463.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9rX85HJf)
Lots of small jobs completed over the last two days, fitted a throttle cable, it is a Venhill kit that I shortened to suit, replace the tach cable with a NOS item from William Kuhen, stripped and cleaned the petcocks, new fuel lines, I installed a Guzzi fender cable guide for the speedo cable, adjusted the drive chain, set up the carb for what is hopefully a good base point. I installed new points and condenser and set the static timing, new period correct high tension lead and a ‘pink’ Magnetti Marelli spark plug.
I flooded the crank case with 4 litres of oil and kicked the engine over at least 150 times, then drained the oil and refilled the crankcase with 2 litres of Castrol 10-40. I am getting a nice bright spark from the magneto ignition.
(https://i.postimg.cc/gkRSnNhJ/IMG-8481.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CzhH2CmT)
Then I hit a snag, no lighting or horn, I had replaced all the wiring but like the 200 Motobi I restored last year I initially kept the stock rectifier and regulator along with the convoluted wiring through the light switch.
After a lot of messing about I again abandoned the old reg / rec and fitted a full bridge rectifier and rewired the guts inside the headlight shell, mostly eliminating the CEV terminal block and wiring all of the lighting and horn circuits off the battery and feeding the new full bridge rectifier direct to the battery for charging from the two wire lighting coil.
(https://i.postimg.cc/t4Q3wbYR/IMG_8493.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3d100PXz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/T3VVXsDV/IMG_8495.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9DfRdJ10)
I hooked up the 6v gel battery and as I had hoped I have a functional horn, brake light, head light and tail light plus high and low beam. I won’t know if the rectifier is functioning until I start the bike up but it should work. A good friend who was an electronic tech at the local university found me a rectifier to work and it cost less than $18! It takes two wires from the light coil and sends out DC + and -
(https://i.postimg.cc/D04Gpphb/IMG_8482.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Wqjthnh2)
The reproduction header and muffler fit much better than expected, just one slight modification to the header Janet mid frame.
I welded on a new tab for the steering damper and steering g lock, I thought I had made the correct shape but when I installed the steering damper I saw I had to redo it, careful MIG welding and touched up with Por 15 black paint.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fRf8vyBQ/IMG_8479.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DSmQv29x)
I am contemplating making up custom rear sets for the bike, not sure wher to begin, perhaps modify a set of Tarrozi pieces?
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I’ve been studying some of the different Ducati single rear set configurations lately for my simmering projects. I would think you could weld up very comparable parts that would look more period-correct than Tarozzi pieces.
Original period-correct Ducati/Italian fixed and folding foot pegs for rear sets aren’t hard to source. Making and fitting folding pedal for the left side so the kick lever will clear is the normal dilemma..
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I’ve been studying some of the different Ducati single rear set configurations lately for my simmering projects. I would think you could weld up very comparable parts that would look more period-correct than Tarozzi pieces.
Original period-correct Ducati/Italian fixed and folding foot pegs for rear sets aren’t hard to source. Making and fitting folding pedal for the left side so the kick lever will clear is the normal dilemma..
Good points Clint, I need to find some pictures of period Italian light weights to come up with some ideas.
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After sorting out the ignition circuit I got the little single to fire on the second kick, sounds good, engine responds well to throttle. Stock 24mm Dellorto carb and stock energy transfer ignition
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKxGGVWXg0A
After starting it and letting it warm up a couple times the kick start made a pop sound and swung with no resistance, something broke in the pawl ratchet, the motor will need to come out and the cases split, luckily I have plenty of spare parts, its a setback but something that just takes some time to resolve
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I got back to the Benelli yesterday, pulled the motor and split the cases, the slick start shaft has a sprung square plunger that has a ratchet engagement to the starter gear. The back of the shaft has a plug welded in to close the jetway, the very sparse weld had popped free.
(https://i.postimg.cc/C5JtjhRz/IMG-9133.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vxg3ydLs)
(https://i.postimg.cc/NM6Zj7Y8/IMG-9135.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hzG2CmXh)
A liberal use of the MIg and the case is closed so to speak
(https://i.postimg.cc/P57g352D/IMG-9138.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3kgfWYMr)
(https://i.postimg.cc/KvGh4V11/IMG-9142.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rzPPPfCT)
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Been watching your projects. All I can say is I wish that I was as talented!
Great work, keep it up.
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Been watching your projects. All I can say is I wish that I was as talented!
Great work, keep it up.
Thank you for the kind words, its more perseverance than talent, I break half of what I fix!
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I needed to zinc plate a couple small parts I made for the dual brake cable pull, I always send parts out to my local zinc plater who does very good work with a very quick turn around but for two parts I really didn't want to bother him. I have a Caswel power source and some plating supplies so I dug out the box and set up a small plating operation.
(https://i.postimg.cc/XvBzVDQW/IMG-8429.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/94Vpbb6g)
Plenty of YouTube videos on line showing variations on the process, I used plain white household vinegar and Epsom salt with a few drops of Caswel zinc brighter, warmed the solution in a microwave to about 120F. In the small container I used I put in about a tablespoon of salt.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fyV3FmM8/IMG-8428.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rRLFRd04)
The videos seem to adhere to between .2 and .4 amps, about 15 minutes. I experimented with higher volatage / amps and found 0.4 amps was working the best.
(https://i.postimg.cc/TPnKvTMX/IMG-8430.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CZLhjTxv)
The results are no where near as shiny as the professional work I get done but it will suffice in a pinch.
(https://i.postimg.cc/639nH87P/IMG-8432.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mc5Pk2y3)
at least it won't rust
(https://i.postimg.cc/QdJGTM7t/IMG-8434.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NKFzhBpq)
Very nice. I have a 50 year old 12v, 13 amp battery charger that I use for electrolysis. Still going strong.