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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Moda253 on February 14, 2024, 02:35:14 PM

Title: idle speed adjustment
Post by: Moda253 on February 14, 2024, 02:35:14 PM
Heya, my 2000 jackal is currently idling somewhere between 1900-2000 rpms. That seems a little high to me and no the idel adjustment lever is not pulled down.

I am not sure how to adjust the idle on this bike.
Title: Re: idle speed adjustment
Post by: MattP on February 14, 2024, 02:54:36 PM
Most likley a intake leak
Title: Re: idle speed adjustment
Post by: Huzo on February 14, 2024, 03:38:45 PM
I don’t know if you have cables/carburettors of FI, but if yours is cables/carbs, loosen off the cable adjusters everywhere, to make sure there is no hanging up or jamming of the cables.
Back the idle adjustment screws off at the carbs and see if it comes down.
If not, then go the air leak route as mentioned. When chasing high idle symptoms, I always like to find out first if it’s one or both cylinders hanging up. You can check this by starting cold and see if one pipe gets hot quicker.
Title: Re: idle speed adjustment
Post by: Vagrant on February 14, 2024, 05:36:40 PM
Heya, my 2000 jackal is currently idling somewhere between 1900-2000 rpms. That seems a little high to me and no the idel adjustment lever is not pulled down.

I am not sure how to adjust the idle on this bike.

It might not be pulled down but I bet it's stuck or horribly miss-adjusted.
Title: Re: idle speed adjustment
Post by: n3303j on February 14, 2024, 06:32:31 PM
Assuming it's like my '98 V11 it is injected.
The idle stop screws control the butterflies on the throttle bodies.
There are other screws there that shouldn't be touched.

There's quite a bit of linkage on the way to the butterflies. The V11 is a dual cable setup guaranteeing a shut down when throttle is closed. Seem to remember each of these cables is individually adjustable. You want to be sure that the "CLOSE" cable is adjusted so it will bring the butterfly to the idle stop screw.

There is a cam controlled by the "choke" lever. It sets an alternate low speed stop on the linkage that ties the two throttle bodies together. You want to he sure this stop is clear of the linkage in the low speed position. Again there are cables, pivots, stop screw and all involved with this choke. It all has to work correctly.

The best way to check all this out is to pull the tank,seat and side covers. Then grab a flashlight and manual then move and follow every control until it is obvious what each does. Then make sure your controls allow the throttle plates to close to their stops.

I got my first acquaintance with this "joy" when I decided to set the TPS and sync the throttle bodies. Glad I had a whole day to play the game. Been perfect since
Title: Re: idle speed adjustment
Post by: Wayne Orwig on February 16, 2024, 08:57:33 PM
Did not read the other comments. Sorry if I am duplicating this.

In those years, if you have a single throttle cable in particular, the throttle cam can rub on the air box and hang up causing a high idle or worse.

Make sure the fast idle lever and cable are working properly. With the fast idle lever off, it should not ouch the throttle cam at all.
If all of that is correct, then adjusting the idle stops really needs to be done with a carb sync and TPS adjust.
Title: Re: idle speed adjustment
Post by: John Croucher on February 16, 2024, 09:30:03 PM
There are 4 cup shaft seals. Two on each butterfly shaft.  They can be installed wrong from the factory, worn out or both.  O have rebuilt 3 sets of intakes  all three had some of the shaft seals installed wrong.