Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: texasmoto on October 22, 2024, 06:16:47 PM
-
I'm rebuilding an 850T3 and finally got the transmission in. I went to reconnect the clutch cable but I'm not sure about the routing. The clutch cable housing seems like it's too big for the slot in the transmission. I don't see anything in the parts diagram, but surely this can't be right.
(https://i.ibb.co/3YLsFdJ/20241020-183428.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3YLsFdJ)
-
(https://i.ibb.co/W2LRSTf/28093010.jpg) (https://ibb.co/W2LRSTf)
Threaded end goes through boss at transmission. I think you have it backwards.
(https://i.ibb.co/m685pYT/Screenshot-20241022-203104-Chrome.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m685pYT)
-
It looks like the wrong cable to me.
-
My T3, as from the factory, has an adjusting barrel up on the clutch lever assembly and the the threaded section with the 2 jam nut is on the transmission.
Sounds like your adjusting barrel is misplaced. A whole new clutch lever assembly is available for less than $60.00 if you need one, from the usual sources. It includes the barrel adjuster.
-
Like N3303J said it's up side down.
-
https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=981
This is one from a good supplier
-
Seeing a pic of what is going down at the handlebar lever end of the cable, as currently installed, would be of curiosity to me. Would most likely answer the question pretty quickly.
TdF
-
Alright, so turns out it was back'rds, and yeah it fits through the transmission much better, but it still looks like there is something missing on the other end!
I had it the other way because the adjuster mechanism is threaded.
But now, obviously the adjuster at the handlebars will just flop around now and fall off. I mean, it works but it doesn't look great.
This is the stock clutch housing, I just sanded it because it was corroded. The cable is identical to what came off the bike, albeit newer. Opted for the newer one because the older one has some melted bits from rubbing against the exhaust.
(https://i.ibb.co/PNZFGfM/20241024-151858.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PNZFGfM)
(https://i.ibb.co/BTTbP2Y/20241024-151908.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BTTbP2Y)
-
Your hand lever is missing the adjustment mechanism.
(https://i.ibb.co/dgrsDDB/17605570-02.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dgrsDDB)
Note threaded barrel and thumbwheel as part of hand lever.
-
^^^ he's right. Time to look in you shop for a thumb wheel and the threaded cable receiver. Gots to be somewhere :evil:
Tom
-
Your hand lever is missing the adjustment mechanism.
(https://i.ibb.co/dgrsDDB/17605570-02.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dgrsDDB)
Note threaded barrel and thumbwheel as part of hand lever.
What they wrote. ^^^ I have good used of the missing bits (threaded barrel, thumbwheel, detent spring and ball) if you don't have them.
-
I did not know there should be a spring and ball. Makes sense to keep the wheel from spinning on it's own. Now if I ever have to pull one apart to lube, I'll watch for those bits. Thanks for the info :thumb:
Tom
-
At the least, once you get all the parts correctly in place, if you have issues with cable/clutch adjustment, try putting the two lock nuts on the forward side of the tab on the transmission, rather than either side of it as you have now. Before you complain that the cable is junk.......
TdF
-
At the least, once you get all the parts correctly in place, if you have issues with cable/clutch adjustment, try putting the two lock nuts on the forward side of the tab on the transmission, rather than either side of it as you have now. Before you complain that the cable is junk.......
TdF
I believe the "proper" way is one nut on each side of the tab.
Now with that said, I have put the two nuts together on one side of the tab jamming them together. For as long as I can remember with my bikes I have done it that way. The cable always seemed to "fit" better that way.
Tom
-
Well, it could be somewhere in these boxes lol, let's see! Thanks everyone
-
Well, it could be somewhere in these boxes lol, let's see! Thanks everyone
It’s in the box labeled “ interesting but obviously useless parts” :grin:
-
Factory manual:
(https://i.ibb.co/5F23z4R/C-Cable.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5F23z4R)
TdF
-
Opted for the newer one because the older one has some melted bits from rubbing against the exhaust.
This may be much more than a cosmetic issue. Make sure you route the new cable properly or you will be back in the same boat.
When the clutch cable rests against a hot exhaust, the outer rubber waterproof coating gets melted. It is relatively thin. Now, the inside wound steel body is allowed to touch the hot exhaust and steel transmits or conducts heat very well and very quickly. Inside the wound steel body of the cable is a hollow liner (probably Teflon or such) to provide self lubrication and a slippery surface for the inner working cable. If the outer wound steel body gets hot enough, it melts the hollow Teflon core which oozes as a puddle into the helix of the inner working cable. When the bike cools off, this melted inner core now turns rock hard including the embedded inner working cable. You have just fully destroyed the cable. Make sure you find ways to restrict movement of the clutch cable. Air flow around the engine at speed can easily move the cable into contact with the exhaust. Your job is to prevent that air deflected motion.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
-
(https://i.ibb.co/6J3SPSC/20241025-211748.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6J3SPSC)
Well there it is!
i don't know what the word is to describe this mechanism, but once again moto guzzi reminds me of 70s japanese bikes but 'chonkier' :wink:
-
(https://i.ibb.co/6J3SPSC/20241025-211748.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6J3SPSC)<br
Almost there. But you have used up most of your adjustment at the hand lever. Move both nuts to the forward position on the transmission boss and you should be perfect.
-
While you're at it (dealing with the clutch lever) make sure the lever isn't floppy. If it is, it will rub the cable when engaging the clutch. That will lead to broken strands and then failure. There's a bushing in there that can be replaced to remove the play. I've often found allen bolts with threads all the way to the head in this position. I don't know if they came from the factory that way or were replaced by someone, but that's not the way to do it. It needs a bolt with a smooth shoulder or it'll wear the bushing.
-
I took the photo before fine tuning. I prefer a lever with no slack for faster shifts. I don't know if that is expecting too much from an old machine, but once it is running and riding I'll dial the clutch in further.
-
I took the photo before fine tuning. I prefer a lever with no slack for faster shifts. I don't know if that is expecting too much from an old machine, but once it is running and riding I'll dial the clutch in further.
NO slack will cook your throw out bearing. T3 does not favor speed shifting. Much happier with double clutching.
-
Floppy is bad, but so is taut. The cable and mechanism press on a small radial bearing at the back of the transmission. It is designed to handle short term, intermittent loads as in shifting. It does not handle constant loading very well. When it fails, the simple cheap bearing can cause a lot of expensive work and damage. Always keep a little bit of freeplay in the cable at rest.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
-
On some bikes the freeplay changes as the operating temp changes. Always have a mm or two freeplay. The clutch arm on the transmission also has a adjusting screw. Some manuals list a dimension for initial setting of that arm
-
Definitely do not remove all the free end-play from the clutch cable as pehayes said! And for sure, do not try to shift swiftly or you'll be rounding out the shift dogs. Fixing that is an expensive chore. Sorry, it's just the nature of these bikes and their transmissions. They can shift quickly, but you've got to get a feel for them first. One thing that helps with clean, smooth shifts is preloading the foot lever.