Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: brider on November 24, 2024, 11:13:11 AM
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Thinking it's now "time" to spring for a motorcycle lift, my first thought is what to do with it when it's not in use...
My garage has enough free room for my festering Cal 2 and my Norge right behind it (nearest the garage door), with just enough room all-around the 2 to access them from both sides. So if my Norge was up on the lift now, as I finish putting the swingarm & wheel back on, what would I do with the lift when I'm done? What do you guys do? Is a lift only practical if it doesn't have to ever be moved? Actually, I could move the lift to the Cal 2 position so it would be used if/when ever I get around to fixing it, but the question remains.....
HF has one I've been eyeing for a while, and I know it might have some drawbacks (I've read about them in the past on these pages) but at the price point and after crouching on the floor to do my latest operation it seems like a must-have. And it has small wheels on one end that allow it to be moved.
What's the standard MO for a small garage with limited space?
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Park the Cal 2 on the lift when not in use.
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That’s what I do.
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I’ve got a harbor freight lift and I ended up putting it in the storage shed to be drug out when I need it.i have to hook it to a small tractor cuz I don’t have a concrete path to roll it on. Snot an ideal solution but I ran out of room. I used it for a work table for awhile but even that told me I need more room to have it set up.
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Park a bike on it that you use the least.
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I have a HF lift for 10 yrs or so. I have a Honda 750 I am working on ( for 10 yrs) on it :boozing:
The
Cylinder blew a SEAL, they do not stock the cylinder anymore, , I will have to pull it and see if i can replace the seal. Someday.
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I use my MC lift for so much more than lifting a motorcycle, if I sold all my motorcycles, I'd probably still keep my lift.
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We always have one on the lift regardless is it needs work or not
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Kept thinking about a lift for 15 years.
It's really not the answer for removing a Guzzi from its engine / transmission.
Finally braced a couple of ceiling rafters 48 inches apart so they could easily handle 750 pounds.
Added a pair of eye bolts (not screws) 48 inches apart and equipped each with a come-along hoist.
Now when I want to work on a bike I add a rope loop around a structurally sound part at each end of the bike and hoist the bike into the air. No pushing or pulling and clamping to get on the lift. Makes dropping and reinstalling engines a breeze. No more problems removing wheels (both at same time if desired). Wanted a "not level" lift? Easy enough to lift each end as needed to whatever angle desired.
Now the "lay on the floor work can be done sitting comfortably on an inverted 5 gallon bucket. When done I ratchet the two hoists just over head height until next time they are needed.
Glad I never bought a lift.
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Normally use the lift as a parking space for a bike but, at the moment due to space being tight (Land Rover in the bike workshop) I am using the lift as a welding bench and, actually it works very well, being metal and about the right height for repairing the bulkhead, plus the wheel clamp and adjustable height are a bonus for holding large sections.
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I have had a Harbor Freight lift for 15 years or so now. It is in my basement workshop/garage. I have it in an area I can get all around it so it never moves. It is also directly under a 13" structural I-beam so when I want to suspend something, I lift it on the lift, strap it to the beam, and lower the lift until the weight is off the lift. Works like a charm. I have lifted bikes like my Norge, Stelvio, V85TT, Huseberg, and Altas. Today or tomorrow I plan on hanging, upside down, an Arctic Leopard EX800 that I just got. I want to fabricate a carbon and Kevlar skid plate and plan to mold it right on the bottom/sides of the bike. I sometimes park a bike on the lift when not in use, but mostly it is open. I don't know what I would do without it.
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My 2¢.... I bought a HF lift about a decade ago for less than $299 (had a coupon :laugh:). The wheel vise was terrible, I replaced it with one I got at J & P Cycle for about $70. I'm always using the lift for something (extra workbench, catch all, etc.) when there's not a bike on it. I suppose if the time comes where it is in the way, I've thought about storing underneath my PU truck in the other side of the garage.....I think I have the ground clearance. The lift ram has always seeped oil so I keep a hunk of cardboard underneath it and check the oil every couple years. Don't know if the ram is rebuildable or replacements are available....will worry about that when the time comes. If the ram is left extended for several months in the extended position, it will rust. I leave an oil dampened rag wrapped around the ram if I leave the lift in the "up' position for winter projects. I'm glad I got the HF lift, I haven't used my small scissor type mc lifts since and recently gave one away bc it hasn't been used since the HF lift arrived. I woulda loved one of those high end Handy, etc. pneumatic mc lifts but the budget just aint/wasn't/isn't there.
Art
(https://i.ibb.co/D7YSrp8/20200321-085403.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D7YSrp8)
(https://i.ibb.co/jhwtn8d/20220109-110740.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jhwtn8d)
download pinterest pictures (https://imgbb.com/)
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Here's what my do when I'm not using them. I don't find it to be much of a bother to move things around when I need to use one or both.
(https://i.ibb.co/KmzJghk/Lifts.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KmzJghk)
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Kept thinking about a lift for 15 years.
It's really not the answer for removing a Guzzi from its engine / transmission.
Finally braced a couple of ceiling rafters 48 inches apart so they could easily handle 750 pounds.
Added a pair of eye bolts (not screws) 48 inches apart and equipped each with a come-along hoist.
Now when I want to work on a bike I add a rope loop around a structurally sound part at each end of the bike and hoist the bike into the air. No pushing or pulling and clamping to get on the lift. Makes dropping and reinstalling engines a breeze. No more problems removing wheels (both at same time if desired). Wanted a "not level" lift? Easy enough to lift each end as needed to whatever angle desired.
Now the "lay on the floor work can be done sitting comfortably on an inverted 5 gallon bucket. When done I ratchet the two hoists just over head height until next time they are needed.
Glad I never bought a lift.
I also use a come along suspended from the trusses. I have a track attached to the trusses so I can move it back and forth. It isa track that is used for sliding garage/barn doors. I have used it primarily for lifting heavy outboard motors on and off boats and placing them on or taking them off a motor stand. I should have used it on the V7 when doing my tires, I thought about but didn't do it.
kk
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Quote from: guzziart on Today at 02:23:49 PM (https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=122199.msg1892731#msg1892731) Don't know if the ram is rebuildable or replacements are available....
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My lift is by 'Clarke' but it looks similar to yours, probably from the same manufacturer?
The ram on mine developed a leak, so much that it wouldn't lift any more. I bought a 'Clarke' repair kit that included all the seals, 'O' rings etc. - didn't cost much, all working again and that was more than 10 years ago.
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I think the HF lift is fine for all but pro wrenches. Make's maintenance a breeze. The cyclinder may need some care, but that's an easy task. There is a bar to rest the deck upon, relieving the cylinder of pressure in situ. Well worth the savings over the alternatives, IMHO.
Like you, I now suffer from a small garage. Having the bike properly strapped allows me to pull the lift out from the wall for 360 degrees of use, and back to the wall the rest of the time. And as others have said, they serve many utilitarian purposes. Mower deck/snowblower service. Extra table space for a project. Catch 'em on sale and don't look back!
I use a color-keyed Baxley rather than the stock wheel chock. works a treat.
(https://i.imgur.com/OkArrRG.jpg)
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I have a HF lift as well. I find it so useful that I don't worry about when I am not using it.
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I will say years ago I bought a HF lift and when I got it home rolled it into the 2-car garage (single 16-foot garage door) I though thtis thing takes up a ton of floor space and was second guessing my decision. Once I got it positioned I then realized that it when a bike is parked on it it takes up no more room than a bike parked on the floor. I then realized when i was out riding I could care less how much space the lift consumed as I was not there so it didn't matter if it took up the entire garage. I also anticipated using the life one or twice a week at most and it turnd out I use it almost daily for something or another.
After 8 or 10 years of faithful service I decided I wanted an electric over hydraulic lift and decided on a Titan EXL1500 with front, rear and side extensions so I could work on the zero turn and just have more work surface when tearing into a bike. Turns out the Titan did highlight one of the HF shortcommings. The HF lift has a fully extended work height of 30 or 31 inches. While this seems plenty high its not and I'm only 5'-9". I never realized it but when working with the HF lift I was alway slightly hunched over and after a couple hours my back would be hurting. The Titan has a deck heigth of 40 or 42 inches and now when working on a bike I stand erect and my back does not hurt even after a full day.
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I have three HF lifts in the shop, only one has a wheel vise, nothing but the stop plate on the other two. Don't need a chock or vise for way I do things.
HF lift #1 is an air/pump model which came with a built in leak. Patrick Hayes made a new pump assy. to fix his and sent me one as well. No more leak.
HF lift #2 also came with a built in leak - the release valve was so poorly machined that it tore an o-ring. I made new parts to fix this one myself.
HF lift #3 I bought used from a friend. Best of the bunch - no leaks, lifts to full height with less pumps.
If anyone is looking for a Handy lift, my friend Stephen in Wash., D.C. has one he'd like to sell. Contact me if interested.
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In my shop no flat surface goes unused, it can always be used as a workbench. In winter just park a bike on it and roll it into a corner or up against a wall.
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In my shop no flat surface goes unused, it can always be used as a workbench. In winter just park a bike on it and roll it into a corner or up against a wall.
Exactly, it's perfect for rebuilding that old toboggan...
(https://i.ibb.co/nDttMsV/IMG-3686.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nDttMsV)
Welding up an old snow plow...
(https://i.ibb.co/1JJMqZq/IMG-3802.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1JJMqZq)
fb private photo viewer (https://imgbb.com/)
Or even working on an old Guzzi...
(https://i.ibb.co/7nXg3cC/IMG-2484.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7nXg3cC)
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I've seen pictures of ramps being sunk into the floor or the floor built up to ramp level.
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I would love to have my lift built into the floor. Not so much for parking a car over it, but much easier to push the bike on. The only real downside is you loose the 7" or so of lift height.
Because of the slopes leading into my garage, the only way I can get a complete bike on the lift is to ride it on under power. With no gas tank and a few other bits off the bike, it can be pushed.
For riding the bike on, my lift came with side pieces for use with 4 wheelers. Instead of mounting them to the table, they just sit on the floor so I have a place to put my feet down when I need to stop or balance. I have read that some will make them out of wood or the like and make them usable for storage.
Tom
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I would love to have my lift built into the floor. Not so much for parking a car over it, but much easier to push the bike on. The only real downside is you loose the 7" or so of lift height.
Because of the slopes leading into my garage, the only way I can get a complete bike on the lift is to ride it on under power. With no gas tank and a few other bits off the bike, it can be pushed.
For riding the bike on, my lift came with side pieces for use with 4 wheelers. Instead of mounting them to the table, they just sit on the floor so I have a place to put my feet down when I need to stop or balance. I have read that some will make them out of wood or the like and make them usable for storage.
Tom
Loss of elevation, the recess in the floor is a dirt/debris trap and if the lift goes tits up what are the chances you can get one the exact L/W/H to replace it. Personaly I like haing the lift mobile. I can back the truck into the garage and up to the lift to load/unload heavey objects or there are times when i need to load a bike in th ebed of the truck and no one s around to assist, I push the lift into the driveway loanf and lift the bike then back the truck up to the lift and poosh it across into the truck. FWIW do not do this with a the HF lift as it will tip foward due to its design.
Not usre how leaving the side extension laying on th efloor beside the life do better than installing them to the lift so you have a big flat surface area for the bike and your feet??
(https://i.ibb.co/Yc2bjJY/Titan-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Yc2bjJY)
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With the extensions mounted, I have to bend/reach over the extensions rather than stand right next to the bike. If I'm just doing a few quick things, the extensions are left in place and I stand on them. If it will take me a bit to do my work, I move them out of the way.
Tom
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The absolute best motorcycle tool I've ever bought was the Harbor Freight lift. I use it all the time. Not only when working on my multiple motorcycles, like yesterday's project of replacing the fork seals on the V85tt, but also as a work table for any number of projects in the garage. When not in use it resides under the truck in the garage. I've owned it for at least 10 years and never had any issues with it. I would gladly buy another one if this one broke or got worn out.
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Buy enough of a lift to add some versatility Since this is a Guzzi site, might as well think out of the box a bit.. :evil:
(https://i.ibb.co/my685pB/PICT0004.jpg) (https://ibb.co/my685pB)
(https://i.ibb.co/FJp4b2p/5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FJp4b2p)
(https://i.ibb.co/KKwZmdC/PICT0001.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KKwZmdC)
(https://i.ibb.co/mSqcQkK/PICT0009.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mSqcQkK)
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I think the HF lift is fine for all but pro wrenches.
(https://i.imgur.com/OkArrRG.jpg)
Sorry, thread creep: I think the red LM IV is the sexiest motorcycle ever made. (sigh). But back to the lift:
I read thru all these posts and I didn't realize all the alternate stuff I would SURELY use the lift for, so thanks for the rationale(s).
I guess as long as I have the Cal 2 in it's festering, un-rideable state, the lift could occupy it's footprint and floor space would be a non-issue. Tho only downside I see is the act of "crabbing" a Tonti on a lift; wouldn't the lift height work against you? I fear I may have to crab my Cal 2 in order to resurrect it.
Also: How is the act of putting a pig like the Cal 2 on it's centerstand (or my Norge, actually harder, but the bike isn't as big) on the lift accomplished? The Cal 2 is TALL, and I envision riding onto the lift and not being able to touch my toes on either side, which brings me to my next question....
Seems to me now that you can't ride the bike onto the lift, you have to push it.....So depending on the ramp angle that's gotta be hard with a heavy bike. No?
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Sorry, thread creep: I think the red LM IV is the sexiest motorcycle ever made. (sigh). But back to the lift:
I read thru all these posts and I didn't realize all the alternate stuff I would SURELY use the lift for, so thanks for the rationale(s).
I guess as long as I have the Cal 2 in it's festering, un-rideable state, the lift could occupy it's footprint and floor space would be a non-issue. Tho only downside I see is the act of "crabbing" a Tonti on a lift; wouldn't the lift height work against you? I fear I may have to crab my Cal 2 in order to resurrect it.
Also: How is the act of putting a pig like the Cal 2 on it's centerstand (or my Norge, actually harder, but the bike isn't as big) on the lift accomplished? The Cal 2 is TALL, and I envision riding onto the lift and not being able to touch my toes on either side, which brings me to my next question....
Seems to me now that you can't ride the bike onto the lift, you have to push it.....So depending on the ramp angle that's gotta be hard with a heavy bike. No?
I mentioned the side extensions metal or wood to put your feet on when powering up the lift.
Centerstand. Once the bike is clamped in the chock. Put a screw type scissor jack.lift platform under the rear trans mount. Might need to use a block of wood or two to get to the rear trans mount. If the headers are off, you might just be able to use the frame. Jack up and then lower the centerstand.
Crabbing. I have done this on a Handy lift with the front wheel in the chock AND THE FORKS/TRIPLE CLAMP STRAPPED TO THE LIFT and an engine lift/cherry picker with the lift at it's lowest locking point. You can do most of the work with the lift raised. When it comes time to undo the last bolts holding the upper frame to the lower frame rails...... Depending on how you plan to lift the frame, you can if needed lower the lift to it's lowest locking point and use for instance an engine lift, chain hoist to rafters or an A frame or the like. With the Handy and the cherry picker I use, I can lift the frame with the Handy at it's lowest locking point and slide the trans right out with no issues. At the worst, the last bits of your work will have your knees on the ground or crouching.
Hope this helps,
Tom
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One of my 4 bikes is always parked on the HF lift. Currently the XR1200 is being ‘overwintered’ on it. Have had the lift for about 8 years. Replaced the OEM chock with a different one. Whole sub culture of farkles around the HF. Always seems to take a few more foot pumps than it should ( even though I topped of the hydraulic fluid) to get to max height. However, for $220 it was hard to beat.
Surprisingly easy to move around garage bay w/o a bike on it when deck is raised.
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Brider, I just line up the 1/2 - thickness cement block on the left side of the lift and it's easy to walk right up without getting out of balance.
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Brider, I just line up the 1/2 - thickness cement block on the left side of the lift and it's easy to walk right up without getting out of balance.
FWIW, I use a small plastic one-step to give me level footing to deploy the bike center stand once on the lift.
- Also, to decrease the ramp angle I place a footlong 2x4 or 2x6 underneath the lower ramp edge to make rolling the bike up the ramp easier.
- Also, to get the bike up onto the center stand I place a footlong 1x6 or 2x6 in front of the rear tire, roll the bike on the footlong and go for the C-stand.
As I age I'm trying to work smarter not harder.
Happy Holidays!
Art
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My lift has casters and so I need to figure a way to chock them so the lift stays put. I don't want to remove them because they make the lift so easy to move when its necessary. Its those small diameter steel wheel casters.
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Maybe replace the casters with a locking version? Just make sure the replacements can take the weight.
Tom
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If it's a HF ramp there are adjusters underneath to lock it in place.
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My lift has casters and so I need to figure a way to chock them so the lift stays put. I don't want to remove them because they make the lift so easy to move when its necessary. Its those small diameter steel wheel casters.
No matter what brand lift there should be a way to raise lower the casters.
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I have a harbor freight and my vehicle has the clearance that I can just park over top of it.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Our-Current-Collection/i-TC4NszF/0/Kxx6q2QLvdLrvgz4GmQ7PqmRGbtSpLLknLVn2fB2h/L/20221022_145527-L.jpg) (https://curtedwards.smugmug.com/Our-Current-Collection/i-TC4NszF/A)
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Funny! I park my Sammy on top of mine too. Problem is there is a big oil puddle to clean up each time.
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No matter what brand lift there should be a way to raise lower the casters.
This is a scizzor lift, not a HF, I added the casters myself, they are not adjustable. No space to add a crank down lift to lock the position...
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My lift has casters and so I need to figure a way to chock them so the lift stays put. I don't want to remove them because they make the lift so easy to move when its necessary. Its those small diameter steel wheel casters.
Maybe try placing 4 wood blocks under the lift to raise it enough to get the casters/wheels of the ground. Since my garage floor has a slight slope to the sewer, I shim my lift accordingly so it's level. I use a 2x4 and a crow bar to lever the lift up then place the appropriate sized wood shim underneath the front caster (and screw lock) & rear wheel.....in your case it would be underneath the lift frame, I reckon.
Art
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That could work! As long as the shims don't slide...I could attach some sandpaper for friction. Thank you guzziart
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That could work! As long as the shims don't slide...I could attach some sandpaper for friction. Thank you guzziart
Or a piece of rubber mat under ach shim for a more long term solution.
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I have a harbor freight and my vehicle has the clearance that I can just park over top of it.
Good to know and thanks for the pic! I've always though my HF lift might be capable of being stored under our pick up truck but after seeing your Sammy over it I'm thinking it definitely will.
Art
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In my shop no flat surface goes unused, it can always be used as a workbench.
Same here! :laugh:
(https://i.ibb.co/74R9cDH/350-12082024.jpg) (https://ibb.co/74R9cDH)
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i tuck my Samurai in for the winter, so I straddle mine and park over it. The Samurai has the clearance to be able to.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Our-Current-Collection/i-TC4NszF/0/K7cj5Qz9t6GTmgSrT2C6FmnRBqrdHpdr8NK5jtwSJ/M/20221022_145527-M.jpg) (https://curtedwards.smugmug.com/Our-Current-Collection/i-TC4NszF/A)