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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: DoubleGuzzi on January 17, 2025, 06:02:33 PM
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Looking for some advice and relevant details on ownership.
Having had my wee Breva rekindle my interest in Guzzis and just sold my Street Twin, I'm keenly eyeing a few Carbons for sale at prices that I can just about stretch to. They vary in exact model year, 2018/19 and the highest mileage is a paltry 16,000 miles approx.
Can I pick your combined brains/experiences? What are the pitfalls of ownership and what should I be aware of upfront?
I'm not concerned about it being only 744cc compared to later V"7"s, in that a primary consideration is vehicle weight.
I honestly could do without the matte paint finish and prefer glossy. What do you guys use to clean and protect the finish, without it turning to a shiny satin look?
In a similar vein, what about care for the exhaust pipes and silencers (mufflers)? On black finish Triumph pipes, I've used factory recommended Motorex Protect & Shine but that was for black chrome. A couple of photos that I've seen of Carbons show signs of the pipes being polished to some degree.
How does one go about touching up inevitable paint chips?
Did some bikes come from the factory with red wheel rim trim, or has it just been a particular addition on one of the bikes that I spotted?
Engine-wise, are there any significant/worthwhile changes compared to the 2008 744cc Breva? Bigger clutch with lighter action, for example? Ever so slightly more powerful and barely noticeable?
What's the consensus on the best tyres to use? (Controversial/personal, I know)
[I'm also considering the Shine version, kinda circumventing the black finish queries, at the expense of being blinded/dazzled.]
Thanks for any insights.
:popcorn:
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Mechanically all V7III variants are essentially the same though details vary in the form of fender, instrument, and wheel configurations.
But they are all ABS/TC equipped hemi head 6-spd smallblocks. They make decent power, a bit of punch over the heron head models, yet very efficient (low to mid 50's mpg range despite more power).
There's a little more weight than the earlier models but I don't really notice it.
We've had ours since new but only a gentle 8k miles or so. I guess that's pampered with that I've not needed to touch up anything. I clean the bodywork with Plexus or Pledge. I tend to use the Plexus on the tank to maintain the matte finish, though I would use the Pledge too and not worry if it got a little shiny.
The cast wheels are the same as all the other cast wheels since the intro of the 1tb Stone up until the 850 models. Any red trim was added by an owner.
The motor is noticeably more powerful than any of the Heron Head models but that probably isn't much in the big picture of things. I do think it is more highway capable than my MkI Stone.
I also think the suspension is a hair better out of the box than earlier models but still relatively poverty pack.
I'm quite happy with both my MkI and MkIII though I'm really considering a Mk whatever the F the new ones are gonna be.
But I'm still keeping these two.
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There's a little more weight than the earlier models but I don't really notice it.
Thanks: I was hoping that you'd chime in. :bow:
Have you got any definitive figure for this, as in my poking around, I get varying weights?
I usually go on dry weight for comparisons: 189kg is exactly my expectation - not light but just bearable.
Dry Weight (lbs/kg)
417 / 189
Wet Weight (lbs/kg)
461 / 209
Seems like the carbon fibre goodness (I have a fetish for it) is of little/zero consequence.
Mid 50(UK) mpg is what I'm seeing from most sources - seems about the same as the Breva and a big drop from the Street Twin. :cry: One might have thought the 6-speed box and changed cylinder heads would make improvements to fuel consumption. If 'muricans had to wear the same costs as Brits do for go-go juice, you'd cry too.
(Pledge is a household furniture polish in the UK and I'm still Googling Plexus ;) )
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Those weight figures sound about right. It's a guess as the OEM specs are a little suspect being the exact same as other variants.
I actually do think the carbon fiber bits look good even if overall they have little impact vs plastic or aluminum on other models with regards to actual weight.
But honestly at the end of the day I don't feel any big differences between our three bikes and the lightest is 400# wet and the MkIII heaviest is probably only around 460# wet.
My MkI heron head only gets 40-45 mpg (US) so the MkIII hemi getting 50-55 mpg (US) feels like a jump to me.
I can get more if I'm really conservative.
Jenn can do better but she's half my size and manages nearly 60 mpg on her Duc so there's that.
Yes on Pledge that's the same stuff I'm talking about.
Plexus is an overpriced plastic cleaner/polish but I really like it and use it on our helmets and windscreens.
https://www.plexusplasticcleaner.com/about.html
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Back in the '70s, we all used Pledge on our visors but not used that in many moons! I very occasionally use Hard Shell Turtle Wax as an external protecting skin (helmet shell & visor) - demister spray on the inside, to augment the near ineffective dual layer visor. A few minutes light soak with a damp kitchen towel, to remove bugs etc.
Reading about the Plexus Plastic Cleaner, it seems to include ingredients to shine. The previously mentioned Motorex isn't too dissimilar. Even products such as Armour All (however it's spelled) have a tendency to shine dull surfaces. Hmm, think I need a rain-check for this one, perhaps literally.
:clock:
P.S. Another ~10mpg is always welcome. :wink:
P.P.S. I've been spoiled by the (lack of) weight of my previous Winter bike: Duc M600
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I just picked up a Carbon Dark and as Kev says, it's a vanilla V7 III underneath with all the good and bad that comes with that model. The suspension is adequate at best so many will upgrade both ends. I replaced the OEM shocks with adjustable Hagons and put spacers w/ lighter oil in the forks. May spend the $$ for cartridge emulators in the future. The other thing to watch/maintain is the rear drive mushroom vent as they can get stuck closed and when that happens, oil will blow past the seals when things get hot. A small fly screen is nice to reduce wind blast a bit and protect the speedo.
Matching tires are a little hard to find. I like the softness of radial tires and think the OEM Pirelli bias tires are a bit skiddish. Went with a set of Bridgestone A41s. Lastly, I like the TCS at the lowest settings as it can be quite intrusive otherwise.
(https://i.ibb.co/VDvYNqH/carb6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VDvYNqH)
(https://i.ibb.co/BPDR1KJ/carb4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BPDR1KJ)
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Not that you asked, but if I was going to the effort to remove the forks and do some work I'd put a set of Gold Valves in while it was opened up.
They work great on the V7, are not expensive, and if you source them from Hamlin, who's done at least 100 of them, you'll get it right the first time.
It's really not $$ and the improvement is way more than the price tag.
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I just picked up a Carbon Dark ..
Looks like the pipes have maintained their flat black look - the plush surroundings make it difficult to tell on the 'mattness' of the tank. ;-)
Is it the damping that's the issue as, I'd be tempted to transplant the red springs onto the replacement shocks, if possible.
Making me wonder whether I should really pickup a cheap(er) V7III and source the carbon goodies, as/when they appear on the used market. Just a thought.
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Looks like the pipes have maintained their flat black look - the plush surroundings make it difficult to tell on the 'mattness' of the tank. ;-)
Is it the damping that's the issue as, I'd be tempted to transplant the red springs onto the replacement shocks, if possible.
Making me wonder whether I should really pickup a cheap(er) V7III and source the carbon goodies, as/when they appear on the used market. Just a thought.
I dunno. But if you really dig the look of the carbon there's a lot that goes into it from the four carbon fiber body parts to the red valve covers and calipers, to even the color of the tank badges and stripe.
You could spend quite a bit chasing that.
Ironically I didn't realize until after Jenn had picked it out that it was one of the few models to essentially have all one color/matching bodywork since so many of the smallblocks come with only the front fender matching the tank. I'm hindsight I really hate that visually and sorta lucked into two smallblocks with matching fenders.
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Sorry fellas (particularly Kev M): I rejected a higher mileage, cheaper, fiery red head for a very shiny one.
What gets me is how cheap they are Stateside, compared to UK. Still, I felt it was a reasonable deal for something with only a 500 unit production run and only one of 20 in the UK.
Took the opportunity to grab a centre stand (previously on a V7 Special - hope it fits!) and some used Hagon Nitro shocks (no need to try switching out to the red springs). The 'joys' of feeBay. :violent1:
Let's hope that I enjoy my new purchase, as and when it arrives - a couple of weeks of wondering.
:popcorn: :bike-037:
Will the wee Breva remain in the stable for Winter duties? Time will tell.
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(Blog) update..
The Shiny Carbon arrived in the small hours (great courier!) and I took it out for a sneaky 5 mile test ride this afternoon. Brrr @3.5degC.
First impressions:
Wow that non-Heron head sure makes the top end more chunky than the Breva - looks like a bigger capacity motor.
The shine actually looks better in the flesh than in pics, to my eyes (typical of Guzzis, IME).
The bike has a fresh MOT (roadworthy certificate) but boy, are the brakes poor! The front reminds me of the standard crappy setup on my ex-'18 Street Twin i.e. lack of both feel and power. The back is wooden, devoid of sensitivity and near ineffectual. For Brembos, there's something not right and I've queried the stealer dealer on whether new pads have been installed. Either way, I'll remove the pads to see what's going on - I can sense a set of GG organics pads will be on the shopping list. The existing (likely HH-rated) pads may just be heavily glazed but I prefer pads to wear out quicker than discs.;)
As promised, a new (JMT) battery had been fitted, though I may eventually substitute it for a LiFePo4, if a good deal comes my way. I couldn't persuade the dealer to install a lithium instead of the AGM; maybe it was due to already getting him to knock £225 off the bike's listed price. :evil:
The back tyre has seen better days, in having age related cracks running around a lot of the sidewalls close to the rim. I've seen worse but really it should have been flagged as an advisory during the MOT process. Far too early to tell but initial impressions are that the front end handling is similar to when I had Pirellis on the Breva. Very slight slow speed tuck-in. A pair of Mitas may be on the cards, depending on their performance on the Breva.
It'll be interesting to see if I can adjust to the ergonomics; the footpegs are positioned exactly were I want to put my legs when I come to a stop. The pegs are wider apart and further forward than what I've been used to for decades. The only other bike to have been like this was strangely my wife's ex-F650GS. I've already begun to research rearsets! (Too expensive.) It'll be a bit like switching between auto and manual gearbox cars, I reckon: fight muscle memory.
Well laid plans.. The (used V7 Stone) Hagon Nitros are 290mm eyelet spacing so therefore too long for the V7III (Why though? Arrgh!). They may find a home on the Breva, as they're in better condition than the current dual spring Hagons. Ideally, I'd drop to slightly shorter than standard shocks, for a lower seat height - I'll be dropping the forks 10mm to begin with, anyway.
A (black) used and a bit chipped Givi rack arrived today, which should be fine for the occasional/possible long weekends away. The extended side arms on this rack may give enough support for a 30 year old pair of throw-over Cordura saddlebags. If not, I have a pair of generic shock-attached supports kicking about the garage.
I'll play around with a couple of fly screens that I have, though I may end up purchasing a cheap Chinese clear one, from that fella Ali. Time will tell.
Before I get too deeply involved, I'm gonna attempt to put on the main/centre stand. Thanks to a couple of posts/threads here, it doesn't look too bad to do, as long as it fits. ;) It'll let me position the bike at the back of the garage better, for the next couple of months, until weather/salty roads improve.
:blank:
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EBC HH front and rear make it stop. Wear isn't a factor. Drop the forks15MM. Bridgestone A41 for the rear and the same or a T32 for front.
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EBC HH front and rear make it stop.
I'm looking at EBC organic GG, as I prefer the initial feel from organic pads. Being softer, they wear the discs out less plus heat up quicker, for general road use. Yes, they do fade under hard use but I don't do track days and my days of crazy fast +60 miles group rideouts are past.
Availability and cost are factors in my tyre choices. I previously enjoyed dual compound Bridgestones when touring, as well as scratching: always went for the BT range though on Zephyr 1100, '98 900 Trident and 955 Sprint ST.
Visually, those A41s look more suitable for the Rough and at ~£260(GBP) a pair kinda steep for my wallet! My budget go to tyres used to be Continental but even the ContiGo are over £200 a pair.
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Pretty much finished updating my Carbon. A41s front and rear. Dart Marlin fly screen. Cylinder guards. Racetech springs in front and 10mm longer Hagon adjustable shocks in back.
(https://i.ibb.co/cKWVTdmr/carb3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cKWVTdmr)
(https://i.ibb.co/jvLB2tWG/cyl-guard.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jvLB2tWG)
(https://i.ibb.co/ynPWLMZ3/front-bstone.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ynPWLMZ3)
(https://i.ibb.co/1f9MYtLB/rear-bstone.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1f9MYtLB)
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Those A41s actually look OK fitted. :thumb:
Crash bars are the same shape as I fitted to the Breva. I'm considering the ones that sit under the cylinder heads instead, though nearly twice the price for aesthetics. Would the underside head ones offer much resistance in a tip-over? Likely I'll stick with the cheaper option.
You went with longer shocks, I need shorter if anything - to bring it closer to the confidence inspiring Street Twin seat height.
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Those A41s actually look OK fitted. :thumb:
Crash bars are the same shape as I fitted to the Breva. I'm considering the ones that sit under the cylinder heads instead, though nearly twice the price for aesthetics. Would the underside head ones offer much resistance in a tip-over? Likely I'll stick with the cheaper option.
You went with longer shocks, I need shorter if anything - to bring it closer to the confidence inspiring Street Twin seat height.
Not sure what what you mean by "under the cylinder heads" as the ones I installed are the smallest made for the V7 so far as I know. Anything lower still or less obtrusive may not offer much, if any, protection to the cylinders. As for shocks, I can still flat foot the bike with my 29" (74cm) inseam. If you do go with something shorter than stock then be sure to lower the fork tubes in the clamps a corresponding amount. The stock suspension is probably sprung for a 160 lb (72kg) rider so I had to go with almost 50% stiffer springs for my weight and luggage needs.
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The AX41S that I came across in the UK, have a completely different pattern, which confused me a little. :violent1:
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/9bUAAOSwFORnGian/s-l1600.jpg)
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S413bbf2744ce48f08237215bdf843812T.png)
I'm a 28/29" inseam circa 75Kg net weight and not flat-footed on the bike: shock preload set near softest. Of course, regarding the fork drop.
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Interesting. Haven't seen that style engine guard before. As for the tires, mine are A41 while the ones you show are AT41 (at least in the US).
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Interesting. Haven't seen that style engine guard before.
Shows them on the 850 - I assume (perhaps wrongly) that they'd fit on the V7III. :undecided:
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I'm looking to fit a carbon fibre Fender Extender - does anyone know if this might fit? From the seller's description:
Fits
V7 Café (2008-2016), V7 Classic (2008-2013), V7 Special (2008-2016), V7 Stone (2013-2014).
V7 II Special (2008-2016), V7 II Stone 2008-2016) and V7 III Special (2016 onwards).
It will NOT fit the following
V7 Clubman racer, V7 Stone 850, V7 Stone Centenario 850, V7 Special 850, V7 II Clubman Racer, V7 III Stone, V7 III Anniversario
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Shows them on the 850 - I assume (perhaps wrongly) that they'd fit on the V7III. :undecided:
Odds are that is a bad assumption!
As to the A41 it is a 90/10, the pic you show is the off road one. Not what you want.
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And so it begins.. taken in fading light, so crappy quality:
(https://i.imgur.com/EK8XHdR.jpeg)
That screen is a cheapy (~£5) from Ali and I had it on the Breva just to try it out - I'm about to put the early Breva standard one back on it, as it's better for Winter use anyway. At the same time, I dropped the forks 13mm - didn't wanna go too far without preload slugs etc. Additionally, I've raised the headlight to just a few mm below the bottom of the speedo housing.
Speaking of bad assumptions..
The V7 Special centre stand will need a different stop bracket fabricated, if/when I manage to remove that long cross member Allen bolt. I've ordered up some new 1/2" hex bits, to see if I get a better fit onto the bolt.
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Interesting on the brakes. I wonder what is different from mine (or if it's just me, but I don't think so - the brakes on my V7s have both been fine for single disc setups, certainly more powerful than some other bikes that have been in the fleet around the same time and no worse than any other single discs I've had).
Shows them on the 850 - I assume (perhaps wrongly) that they'd fit on the V7III. :undecided:
That might be a bad assumption.
I am starting to think that I can't/shouldn't have THREE smallblocks which means I might have to get rid of one if I get a V7 Sport.
So that got me looking into whether or not I could scavenge some of the accessories from the Carbon Dark to use on a new one.
For comparison I looked up things like my frame sliders and the C-bow racks - and BOTH had different part numbers for the V7III vs. the V7IV (850s). So although I'm not a 100% certain, it does seem likely that there are changes/difference that make some accessories non-compatible. Hell, the first thing people here did was say that the seats for the I-III wouldn't fit the IV and vice-versa.
I'm looking to fit a carbon fibre Fender Extender - does anyone know if this might fit? From the seller's description:
Quote
Fits
V7 Café (2008-2016), V7 Classic (2008-2013), V7 Special (2008-2016), V7 Stone (2013-2014).
V7 II Special (2008-2016), V7 II Stone 2008-2016) and V7 III Special (2016 onwards).
It will NOT fit the following
V7 Clubman racer, V7 Stone 850, V7 Stone Centenario 850, V7 Special 850, V7 II Clubman Racer, V7 III Stone, V7 III Anniversario
That's a WEIRD list and I'm somewhat skeptical that it is correct because of questionable model years. Like the Cafe Classic was one year not 08-16. And the V7C ended in 2012, and 08-16 would mean 2TB bikes, MKI and MKII bikes. Etc etc etc.
Now the REAL thing to look for is the fact that the V7III models came with TWO DIFFERENT REAR FENDER SETUPS depending on the model.
Models like the Stone and Special came with full rear fenders like the earlier MKI and MKII (and V7C run). This uses a hidden fender support and mounts to the chassis one way and the tail light/license plate assembly attaches to it.
Models like the Carbon Shine and Carbon Dark use an abbreviated rear fender and a separate sub-frame that supports the tail light/license plate assembly. This makes the fender size/shape different. Meaning something that attaches to the fuller fender might not mount the same way. Also the sub-frame and how it mounts changes things back there as well.
Speaking of bad assumptions..
The V7 Special centre stand will need a different stop bracket fabricated, if/when I manage to remove that long cross member Allen bolt. I've ordered up some new 1/2" hex bits, to see if I get a better fit onto the bolt.
IF memory serves you need to loosen some other things to get the frame cross member out. Maybe it was the peg/control mounts or something like that. Let me know if you are still having problems and I'll go poke around the Carbon and try to stir my memory.
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Interesting on the brakes. I wonder what is different from mine (or if it's just me, but I don't think so - the brakes on my V7s have both been fine for single disc setups, certainly more powerful than some other bikes that have been in the fleet around the same time and no worse than any other single discs I've had).
The brakes on my V7lll are quite good. When I bought my Bonneville the brakes on it were less effective than the V7 After wore in they were about equal even though the Bonneville had twin discs. My Audace had excellent brakes. The brakes on my Mandello are superb.
kk
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Yeah, I'm not off to a great start, with regards to compatibility.
Seller description:
Moto guzzi v7 850 givi luggage rack off 2018 bike
Given the supposed year, I was expecting the rack to be not from a 850. Drat! The rear mounting point seems to be in a different location and wider apart. I guess it was from a later 850. :cry:
Re: fender extender.
I should've been clearer, as the term is used exclusively AFAIK (due to rhyming I guess), to describe a front mudguard extension, in the UK.
Brakes.
Through a DIY-made aluminium alloy bracket (I'll decline to spell it improperly :lipsrsealed: ), I retrofitted the later 4-pot Brembo setup to my Street Twin. The original twin-pot Nissan was dire to say the least! They (Brembo) were actually a little too powerful and able to totally get the front end "in a twist", if used fiercely.
Yesterday, I braved the cold (for me) and inspected the brakes. They had been cleaned, to a large degree, by the dealer service, as promised. Being a fully-floating disc and 4-pot Brembo, I thought to myself, "Aye, something not right here". I've scrubbed the front and back pad faces with a relatively soft copper brush, followed up with Wurth brake cleaner on both pads and discs. The pads are Brembo front (suffixed part # FF?) and MG marked rear - I hope to grab a 10% discount on a full set of EBC organic GG-rated, tomorrow. I'll keep the originals as spare.
As with the Breva, I'll likely try bleeding the rear with the caliper sitting on top of the disc, to raise it above the master cylinder. The front will get the brake lever tied back to the bar overnight treatment.
I won't know the outcome until it goes back on the road, likely in April.
[I do hope the floating disc ain't gonna cause MOT issues, like the rattly ones on a Laverda 750S Formula!]
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Duh, I should have picked that up on the fender extenda. Well you got a shot there.
Ironically maybe the problem with the rack is what I described, the fender sub-frame differences. I mean 2018 should all be V7III (unless it's from a V9).
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Could just be a typo and the seller meant to post 2018 750. Contact the seller before buying to clarify.
Just ordered "Best Brembo" pads for my Carbon Dark from MG Cycle https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_122&products_id=5209 (https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_122&products_id=5209). Rears are in stock but these fronts are pending.
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Grabbed the 10% discount on "EBC Motorcycle Brake Pads DMX" to get £31.43 for both front & rear. No opinionated "Best" marketing in sight. :wink:
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I find the stock seat rather harsh and uncomfortable after 20 minutes given my bony butt. Depending on your own personal level of, um, cushioning, you may want to get a seat pad. What I did was to buy another V7 seat and refit it with better foam for longer rides. This Milano saddle has an extra inch of high density memory foam on the front half (came from an office chair cushion I bought on Amazon for $15).
(https://i.ibb.co/7dqvYbmH/seat-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7dqvYbmH)
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^ I have same issue: bony butt syndrome! Typically, 100 miles and my bones don't recover. Been down many roads (bad pun) with a Corbin (Sprint ST) for longer tours and I custom made two seats for the Bonnie, with gel inserts. I also have the problem of not thickening the saddle/raising the seat height.
That's a rather nice looking seat cover that you have and would suit my Shine well. I'm pondering a used seat (on a watch list) at a sensible price, with a thought to carving up the foam etc. I need to consider the patterns on them, should I decide to lower them an inch, for example.
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Argh! The new U.S. Pro/Bergen hex key isn't enough to grip the made-from-chocolate long bolt. It's gonna be a right PITA to remove that cross member, to fit a centre stand. I'll need to do a "rain check" on this task. At the moment, I'm thinking that I need to source a replacement bolt and nearly drill out the thread at the right-hand side. Perhaps then, it'll free off.
The new brake pads arrived, so that *should* be straightforward. :rolleyes:
Also, a very basic alarm arrived today, so let's see where I can squeeze that in. It's really only an attempt to deter kids from playing on the bike with/without the consent/encouragement of the parents!
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^ I have same issue: bony butt syndrome! Typically, 100 miles and my bones don't recover. Been down many roads (bad pun) with a Corbin (Sprint ST) for longer tours and I custom made two seats for the Bonnie, with gel inserts. I also have the problem of not thickening the saddle/raising the seat height.
That's a rather nice looking seat cover that you have and would suit my Shine well. I'm pondering a used seat (on a watch list) at a sensible price, with a thought to carving up the foam etc. I need to consider the patterns on them, should I decide to lower them an inch, for example.
Any V7 III seat will work. Again, this one is from a Millano but any full size bench is easy to modify. I cut the step in the OEM seat about 3" further back, cut a level base for the new foam, than added about 1.5" to the front, tapering down to 1" towards the rear to level out the seat. The OEM seat cover had enough material and stretch to accommodate the extra foam without modification. Biggest challenge was getting the staples to fully penetrate the seat base. I used 6mm stainless staples in my electric staple gun and had to redo about half the staples due to bending.
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Argh! The new U.S. Pro/Bergen hex key isn't enough to grip the made-from-chocolate long bolt. It's gonna be a right PITA to remove that cross member, to fit a centre stand. I'll need to do a "rain check" on this task. At the moment, I'm thinking that I need to source a replacement bolt and nearly drill out the thread at the right-hand side. Perhaps then, it'll free off.
Huh?!?
I used a decades old set of pretty short 3/8" drive Craftsman bits and don't recall any trouble.
How long does it have to be?
And you're saying the head is rounding?!?
On the seat thing I wrote a reply this morning but couldn't figure out how to insert a photo with my phone and gave up. The gist of it is that I have had 7 different seats for my smallblocks, and still have 5 of them. My favorites are the Corbins.
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DoubleGuzzi it might be helpful to heat the threaded righthand side of the through bolt, as I believe mine had a thread locker used on it from the factory. It was very resistant to removal. As a last resort if the hex tool has a loose fit on the bolt then sometimes coating the end of the tool with valve grinding compound will help to tighten the tools grip on the bolt.
Mine is a 2018 V7 III Milano. Our personal specifications are very similar and your general fit and feel observations closely mirror mine.
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Yes, the Allen bolt is a bit rounded off from when I attempted to loosen it with an existing hex bit and torque bar.
Today, I tried heating the right-hand side with a cheapo 300W hot air gun and a wee spray of Plusgas but I'm loathe to apply too much force to what remains of the Allen bolt head. I don't want to bubble up the paint on the frame by applying too much heat but the heat gun was struggling to raise the temp. to anything near hot, at current ambient temperature. Perhaps a direct contact with a 80W soldering bolt will be better. I need to source another bolt before trying again, so that'll be sometime in the future. I have thought about skimming an old 10mm hex bit down to just over 8mm - could be tricky. Or maybe a sacrificial torx bit could be used. I don't have any grinding paste lying around but even a little Solvol Autosol might act as a packer. ;)
Regarding the seat.. So it sounds like I should stick to looking for V7III variants and not any earlier/alternative models; could be pricey even 2nd-hand.
My stapling technique has improved from my early days and I had no issue recovering a Bonnie seat with a custom leather cover, after foam 'tweaks'. The electric staple gun force adjustment makes quite a difference to how well and cleanly the staples pierce the seat base, IME.
Corbins weigh a ton!
At least the front brake pads slipped in easily - the existing Brembo ones can't be that worn, as the pistons needed hardly any push-back to fit the new ones. Either that the EBC are thinner to begin with. :blank: I got too cold in the garage, to fit the rear ones, this evening.
Got a space for the basic alarm and it's now physically fitted, ready for a hook up & test. I needed to wrap some insulating tape around the cable entry point, to at least have some semblance of waterproofing. Do you need a clue as to where these alarms are designed/made? At £10, it's hardly a big investment though.
Speaking of cheapo-sourced items, I've got another set of heated grips to fit. They have been excellent on the Breva and with an integrated sliding switch, very discreet. From past experience, £14 well spent, though they do need a fuse added (I already have suitable holders) and strictly speaking should be wired via a small relay - gonna need some more spade connectors, IIRC.
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Mine is a 2018 V7 III Milano.
That is a really nice machine and were in not for my carbon fibre fetish, would likely had taken my limited pennies. Double clocks, glossy paint and aluminium mudguards/sidepanels; what's not to like? :thumb:
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How long does it have to be?
Checked a parts fiche this morning:
M10 pin 2B002817 - £22 delivered, ouch!
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Checked a parts fiche this morning:
M10 pin 2B002817 - £22 delivered, ouch!
I was talking about the driver bit.
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I was talking about the driver bit.
Ahh, I manage to use a short one. I didn't fancy the prospect of the (existing) long one that I have - twist and keeping square-on to the bolt head.
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Meant to post this the other day but can't seem to figure out how from the phone. Easy from the laptop though so.
Since you have a Carbon Fiber fetish...here's my Corbin with the Carbon Fiber look leather:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNYuboO0Z7J_8IpK8HHLusgfoueVRLXDWzUEzLsYVOWFhrYQwPG62ZDh5xZ2KLzCzcjBGy2PtUhx3ZKGInDQCl6-3SjVP8roglVPeo1w-5WxZmoyt_d-MlsCYXIHbCIhzgxktYaYzJg638EjrGwgFiQ7A=w1563-h879-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczM6KYAkWE-0ib3yRj7pTd_9ZTdcO1xihhHLYY27ocBQSLb-UWYpHWVUwlFQ_XXS7MfVgyycACTXksSC0Z1mqXezjm2VohvYIL_Hg0Gz6vJLHEEmBB4_wRaUjD9V9-GSBvHsRnG4-3cJ1mp3qeXcvjyjvg=w1245-h879-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
Edit - I think I got it. The tag needs both height and width dimensions to work.
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OMG! Carrrrbon! :drool:
I daren't think the cost: my Sprint ST Corbin (Gunfighter & Lady) was £250 back in 2000, IIRC.
$649 + shipping Yikes!!
(You nasty man, you. :tongue: )
BTW:
[img width="600" .. :wink:
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OMG! Carrrrbon! :drool:
I daren't think the cost: my Sprint ST Corbin (Gunfighter & Lady) was £250 back in 2000, IIRC.
(You nasty man, you. :tongue: )
BTW:
[img width="600" .. :wink:
Guilty on both counts.
Happy to fix the images, but I've never figured out the particulars on sizing with this board. Can you talk me through it - or just correct this line:
[img width="600"]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNYuboO0Z7J_8IpK8HHLusgfoueVRLXDWzUEzLsYVOWFhrYQwPG62ZDh5xZ2KLzCzcjBGy2PtUhx3ZKGInDQCl6-3SjVP8roglVPeo1w-5WxZmoyt_d-MlsCYXIHbCIhzgxktYaYzJg638EjrGwgFiQ7A=w1563-h879-s-no-gm?authuser=0[/img]
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^ Looks OK on the face of it but I had to find the jpeg (jpg) link in imgur (not easy) to get it to work. Might be the same for googleusercontent.
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^ Looks OK on the face of it but I had to find the jpeg (jpg) link in imgur (not easy) to get it to work. Might be the same for googleusercontent.
That might be the rub - I'm lazy and keep all my photos in one place.
Oh and yeah on the price of the Corbin, though with "options" (Leather) it I seem to remember it coming to $750.
But it's only $$$
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A little bit of bling on the crashbars, for the redheads?
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S737d3c275921491e91a58d40ac0281b3g.jpg)
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A little bit of bling on the crashbars, for the redheads?
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S737d3c275921491e91a58d40ac0281b3g.jpg)
Wait, just to be clear, you're saying your crashbar now has a crashbar? :shocked: :boozing:
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Wait, just to be clear, you're saying your crashbar now has a crashbar? :shocked: :boozing:
You're crazy! :tongue:
These are bumpers for crashbars - spotted when I was perusing plain ones. Not applicable to your steed, with the sticky-out crash bungs. :shocked:
You fixed yer pics! :cool: (Albeit the aspect ratio is wrong on the main image.)
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You're crazy! :tongue:
These are bumpers for crashbars - spotted when I was perusing plain ones. Not applicable to your steed, with the sticky-out crash bungs. :shocked:
You fixed yer pics! :cool: (Albeit the aspect ratio is wrong on the main image.)
I am crazy.
Yeah too lazy to boot up the laptop and get the actual ratio, for now. EDIT - waiting for Jeep motor to cool off so booted up and fixed.
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..and fixed.
Ahh, OCD abated.
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I purchased a M10x260mm Allen bolt - it's a High Tensile one, so not ideal but considerably cheaper than BZP and A2 ones that I could source. This gave me a fallback should things 'go South'..
I finally got the crossmember bolt removed; likely due to the combination of Plusgas penetrating fluid, heating the thread end with a small butane torch and whacking a T55 bit onto the hex head (unsuccessfully - couldn't quickly find my big hammer). The resulting mashing the bolt head gave a slightly tighter fit with my new Allen bit and I eased out the bolt - hurrah! The centre stand is now secure on the bike..
Why Guzzi, why? The positioning of the centre stand stop bracket is approx. 20mm further forward on the V7 Special, compared to the V7III Carbon. I'll need to make up a small bridging bracket, to the rear pegs mounting point. I may also need to bend/reposition the bottom of the bracket so that is aligns with the stand's rubber stopper.
Trials and tribulations..
:coffee:
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Why Guzzi, why? The positioning of the centre stand stop bracket is approx. 20mm further forward on the V7 Special, compared to the V7III Carbon. I'll need to make up a small bridging bracket, to the rear pegs mounting point. I may also need to bend/reposition the bottom of the bracket so that is aligns with the stand's rubber stopper.
Trials and tribulations..
:coffee:
Hmmm, really? It's the OEM stand and not the HB one?
I can't imagine what with the different on the Special vs the Carbon that would change the mounting point of that bracket.
I didn't have a problem with mine, though I bought it used and can't confirm part numbers. But I THINK it was off a Special or maybe it was a Stone. I forget.
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Hmmm, really? It's the OEM stand and not the HB one?
Seller's description:
I have for sale a Moto Guzzi V7 Special Main Stand off my 2023 motorbike The stand is in good condition and has a bolts etc
It's pretty much unused - just a few scuffs from a bike sitting on its stand. I assume OEM and no sign of any HB logo/stamp. Looks as if it was from a 850, being a 2023 bike and would account for any difference? Can't think why though. Thinking more about it: I have both silencers off, so will compare bracket position with them side-by-side.
I'm toying with the idea of removing the cotter pin from the pivot point, to replace with an R-clip. This makes it easier to remove the stand most of the time and only refit for maintenance/storage/major cleaning tasks. They're a substantial weight!
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Seller's description:It's pretty much unused - just a few scuffs from a bike sitting on its stand. I assume OEM and no sign of any HB logo/stamp. Looks as if it was from a 850, being a 2023 bike and would account for any difference? Can't think why though. Thinking more about it: I have both silencers off, so will compare bracket position with them side-by-side.
I'm toying with the idea of removing the cotter pin from the pivot point, to replace with an R-clip. This makes it easier to remove the stand most of the time and only refit for maintenance/storage/major cleaning tasks. They're a substantial weight!
Because the 2023 is a MKIV/850, the Carbon is a MkIII (V7III) and there are differences. I'm guessing in the exhaust and peg mounts among other things. I feel like the swingarm/rear drive is different on the 850's.
The OEM stand for the V7III was a different part number and is no longer available.
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The saga continues..
Upon selling my now surplus Triumph 2-1 exhaust and standard sidepanels, I've purchased cheapo preload fork caps and as new factory V7-III Lowered Comfort Gel seat. The waiting game marches on..
:clock:
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Where did you find the adjustable fork caps?
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Where did you find the adjustable fork caps?
There are a couple of listings on Ali but for some reason, they price them considerably higher than for other machines at about $46 - $44+delivery at the Jungle. Cheap compared to suspension specialists! I had been trying to negotiate a cheaper price from one of the sellers but decided to check feeBay, in the interim. Bizarrely, a pair of black ones have been drastically reduced in price, leaving silver ones just slightly cheaper than Ali.
With the reduction, plus a 5% coupon code, got the black ones for £22.80 all inclusive. Not too shabby a "saving"! Nothing ventured..
[This is where the V7 variations screws things up again. :rolleyes:]
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/jPQAAOSwNzJgOzCF/s-l1600.jpg)
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Further to my previous question regarding Fenda Extenda/fender extender, I got that aforementioned real carbon fibre one fitted. It required a little bit of gentle filing down the outer edges, where it starts to extend down the sides of the mudguard. I stuck it on with "Waterproof No More Nails", holding it in place with a couple of large woodworking clips (giant washing line pegs), for 24 hours indoors.
The weave pattern was never going to be the same as that on the Carbon Shine, given not only the grey fibre used but also the low angle of the weave. It doesn't bother me as I still prefer the look, over ABS. It could be a better match for Darks though.
I was freezing out in the garage and it was failing light, so initial pic is lousy.
(https://i.imgur.com/T87c5IV.jpeg)
If I get really tired of the look, I'll remove and spray satin black, knowing that it still ain't plastic. :violent1:
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Some more good news..
The cheap preload fork caps fit! Hurrah!
Easy fitting:
- Take the load/sag out of a fork leg (jack under sump, on centre stand but I expect just turning the bars, whilst on side stand, to be enough)
- Remove plastic fork cap cover, if fitted
- Unscrew existing the fork cap - may be torqued up and a large socket is best to use, rather than a spanner
- Take out the existing spacer washer
- With the new fork cap at the minimum preload setting, now screw the cap in. Only a little downward pressure is required, showing how 'weak' (low spring rate) the original springs are. I started the threads by hand
- Tighten up the fork caps - you may need to add a little bit of preload (8mm ring spanner), to give clearance for a socket.
It'll be a few weeks before I start to play with preload/sag settings.
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Some updates..
Fork caps
(https://i.ibb.co/jcR9pCP/IMG-20250222-171017-462-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jcR9pCP)
The unused frame attachment for the Racer's rear master cylinder has found a purpose: fused relays, that can be linked together.
(https://i.ibb.co/7J7WP5ZN/IMG-20250222-171227-257-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7J7WP5ZN)
Positioned there it is a bit tight for getting the sidepanel back on, so I'll likely make a small bracket to move the relays more into the void behind the battery. It's easy to join the controlling wire(s) of the relay(s) to one of the three green/black ignition-switched wires on the underside of the fusebox. Only one relay is currently used, for heated grips: 5A fuse replacing the supplied 30A.
(https://i.ibb.co/9mQfhq28/IMG-20250222-171049-335-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9mQfhq28)
An idle switch is now added, to eventually control the low beam headlight, when I remove the rim to change bulbs and wire in an additional DRL.
(https://i.ibb.co/Vcp7rL03/IMG-20250222-171126-906-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Vcp7rL03)
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Further additions..
Tri-wing fork cap adjusters.
(https://i.ibb.co/pjmM6dRL/IMG-20250303-150321-087-2.jpg) . (https://ibb.co/pjmM6dRL)(https://i.ibb.co/MkL5cLH8/IMG-20250303-150339-891-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MkL5cLH8)
Replacement reflector, with LED, wired as an additional brake light. Instead of the weird bracket of the original, I used an off-cut of double-sided carbon fibre sheet. The newly added sheet is pop riveted to the plastic license plate holder and wiring goes up to just under the existing tail light.
(https://i.ibb.co/VYFpTSJX/IMG-20250303-150439-100-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VYFpTSJX)
I found a use for the space between the grab rail and tail light. A cheap tool roll of the same type that I had on the Street Twin. Useful for various bits & pieces.
(https://i.ibb.co/ksWCQz58/IMG-20250303-150416-599-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ksWCQz58) . (https://i.ibb.co/TMzMnpk4/IMG-20250303-150357-466-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TMzMnpk4)
You may have spotted the factory lower comfort gel seat. I still find the seat pan a little bit too wide when my feet are on the ground - it digs into the inside of my thighs. I've been too spoilt by the skinny waist of a Street Twin.
Oh, and I had a spare Oxford DRL lying about the garage, so wired it up to the pilot light..
(https://i.ibb.co/p6XkyQyG/IMG-20250303-150528-855-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/p6XkyQyG)
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Needed to lift the tank, to access the relays, for fitting a manual main light switch. I've discovered a considerable amount of surface rust on the chrome tank underside. :shocked: I rubbed a fair bit off with liquid chrome cleaner, followed up with a wipe of WD40. That'll be a task that I'll need to return to, soon: I'll mull it over for a while. Wire wool/Brillo pad scrub down, then painted with Kurust? Dunno yet.
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First proper outing on the bike today.
A 44 mile round trip and already my butt was starting to ache a little - so much for the MG lowered gel comfort seat. :sad:
This bike is certainly a different experience to my Breva and on this initial run seems to be be better overall compared to the 2018 Speed Twin. It's far too soon to draw any strong conclusions though.
Compared to the Breva..
- Clutch is lighter, though I'm gonna strip the rear of the Breva to check for a gunged up and/or collapsed bearing.
- 6 speed box almost seems like overkill with the ratios spaced too close together.
- The engine is more tractable at low revs, even though I never found the Breva to be lacking in that department.
- Currently, the Breva appears to be quicker and pulls stronger at higher speeds. :undecided:
- The forward pegs makes higher speeds less sustainable, at least on first impressions.
- Fuel economy seems to a considerable improvement and better than expected.
- The automatic low fuel trip meter was a great surprise to get. :thumb:
Just initial impressons.
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I coulda told you about the gel seat.
Something is wrong, there's no way the Breva should have been faster or pulled stronger at higher speeds.
Oh forward pegs made me chuckle... Try a Dart Flyscreen, out in the Pinelands I spend all day at 50-70 mph. I am not fighting the wind at all.
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I coulda told you about the gel seat. -- Ahh, but(t) you have a height advantage in being able to add inches of padding ;)
Something is wrong, there's no way the Breva should have been faster or pulled stronger at higher speeds. -- Yup. Needs further trials/investigation. I'm beginning to doubt the dealer serviced valve clearances, for example. Was surprised at this one, though the Breva pulls stronger than the Speed Twin did!
Oh forward pegs made me chuckle... Try a Dart Flyscreen, out in the Pinelands I spend all day at 50-70 mph. I am not fighting the wind at all. --
Cruising at 50-75mph is a non-issue with the small flyscreen that I have fitted and is pretty relaxing.
(https://i.ibb.co/N69VBcLF/IMG-20250325-152642-186-web.jpg) (https://ibb.co/N69VBcLF)
I did wonder if I'd keep bashing my lower shins when coming to a stop, with the relatively forward pegs. Amazing how quick one becomes accustomed to it though and it didn't pose a problem.
Further edit: the Pirelli tyres are rancid! Reasonably stable until they hit white lines or uneven surfaces. I'll put up with them until they wear down at least a bit. (The horn has since been replaced by a larger than standard chrome one.)
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Ahh, but I'm the end I'm on a pair of Corbin seats and not the huge thick one I bought. Whatever that's worth. It's just that of the 7 seats I've had the OEM gel was among the worst.
Oh and I don't get why you're fighting to hold on at speed then. * Shrugs *
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..Corbin seats ..
Oh and I don't get why you're fighting to hold on at speed then.
Corbins are huge expense by the time the weighty things are sent over The Pond. The one I had for the Sprint ST weighed a ton and really only came into its own after about 300 miles/day travels. [A hard slab to sit on at first!] If I eventually get a hold of a cheap used seat, I may end up building a custom one, like I did for the Street Twin - if I keep the CS for long enough. It would be good to have a seat that was comforting (though low) enough to use up a tank of petrol.
I don't ride like I stole it all the time (fuel costs/license saving) but do like to blow away the cobwebs, now & again. Cleans out the carbon deposits, allegedly. :evil:
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More additions..
LED rear bulb, to hopefully outlast the standard filament bulb. I noted the horrible bulb socket that is also used on other Italian bikes (Ducati & Laverda) and IME are prone to cracking and/or poor connections.
30mm bar riser slugs; I re-routed the clutch cable slightly, to behind the ignition switch wiring.
I've noticed that there's quite a lot of wasted space on the underside of the seat pan - the seat could have easily be made to sit lower - hmm. :huh: Time to resurrect the the 'flat' toolkit that I had put together for the Street Twin, which also had (very) limited space; a DVD case worth. I wrapped it up in a grubby microfibre cloth (reduce rattling/wipe things) and into a resealable bag. The flat multi-tool splits apart to give different spanner sizes and I'm sure that I have another shock spanner somewhere in the garage.
(https://i.ibb.co/YBXpz9Tn/IMG-20250404-170919-499-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YBXpz9Tn)
(https://i.ibb.co/jkZtH8qm/IMG-20250404-171048-175-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jkZtH8qm)
I never understand the open-ended bottom frame on these Guzzis - just looks so unfinished, like someone has butchered the frame. :rolleyes: Ali to the rescue with plugs intended for a V85TT, held in place with some black bath seal.
(https://i.ibb.co/VWKcqrfL/IMG-20250404-170751-062-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VWKcqrfL)
The underside of steering stems on cycles tend to rust up easily if not plugged up, as with motorcycles too. I found a use for one of the other plugs that was part of the above package. I drilled a 2mm hole to help drain any trapped water - I have a mission to source one for top of the yoke now, for the middle of the Allen bolt. Note the chrome horn replacement.
(https://i.ibb.co/jZybTt5G/IMG-20250404-170715-249-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jZybTt5G)
Hopefully the above is of some interest to someone. :bike-037:
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Some detailing added..
(https://i.ibb.co/bjNkMtWr/IMG-20250416-135751-427-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bjNkMtWr)
Those recessed bolt heads were driving me nuts!
(https://i.ibb.co/kgTydD1V/IMG-20250416-135837-058-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kgTydD1V)
Ahh, that's better. :grin:
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K-tech linear fork springs now fitted.
Even though I suggested a softer rate to the supplier, I was sent 8.5N/m springs - on a scale of 6.5,7.5,8,8.5 and 9.
These are considerably firmer than OEM, raising the front end due to less sag. The stiffened front does make the bike appear to be more flickable - lack of flex?
I've backed off the preload to very nearly absolute minimum and even with spirited riding and heavy braking, there's no sign of the forks bottoming out, ever: about 3/4 the full travel. Over bumps and rough surfaces, I wasn't getting the forks jumping up, so the existing damping must be fairly close to decent (heck knows what weight/quantity of oil the dealer put in, during seal change).
One downside is that it now highlights the deficiencies (jarring) of the rear shocks.. hmm, I've got a virtually unused set of cheap TEC ones, previously fitted to the Street Twin. Could be worth the effort.
On feeBay, these springs were cheaper than YSS and others, so less than £100 was good value for money, I reckon. Could be a good option for you folks with a bigger physique and/or more baggage luggage.
:smiley:
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A few more changes..
I picked up a genuine MG screen very cheap on feeBay which is in near immaculate condition. It's slightly larger than what I'd usually use but takes a good deal of wind pressure off at higher speeds. (Although I have had bikes with fairings, I'm more used to (near) naked bikes.)
I've switched out the standard shocks with TEC branded ones, which were previously fitted to my Street Twin. Currently, they're adjusted close to the standard length though can be shortened by about 15mm, if I feel inclined to play around. The big advantage over stock is the inclusion of damping and my initial settings have seen an improvement already. I also have a pair of shorter springs, should I wish to experiment further.
(https://i.ibb.co/Vpc0fGJK/IMG-20250429-151743-288-small.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Vpc0fGJK)
(https://i.ibb.co/t9QVSHT/IMG-20250429-151818-732-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/t9QVSHT)
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I've had 8 or 9 Bonnies (besides the old ones) and have a V7 for 5 years. I used the rear pegs a lot when I had to slog down a super highway. A nice switch to relieve the legs. As a bonus when using the rear, I could find the perfect forward lean where the wind pressure and gravity equaled out. My torso was weightless and I was good for 100's of miles. I'm always surprised more don't do this.
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..I was good for 100's of miles. I'm always surprised more don't do this.
[The Superman pose!]
Environment/terrain/country likely has a lot to do with it. Apart from a few motorways, there are very little cases of lengthy stretches of straight roads, in the UK. As teenagers we used to put our feet on the pillion pegs, sort of emulating racers, on small capacity bikes. Not a practice that continued onto mid-size & larger machines - being too far from foot controls is not such a great idea. The same for highway pegs: fine for extended (boring) slab mile munching.
On multi hundred mile rides, I nearly exclusively had a pillion.