Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Kev m on February 21, 2025, 08:53:07 AM
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Because I'm pedantic about smallblocks and because I see people thinking about their first Guzzi asking questions I thought I'd copy this reply here and start this thread as a source for such shoppers. Please correct and/or add onto the info as you guys see fit.
For anyone new to Guzzi the modern V7 smallblock comes in a variety of flavors. This thread is starting with the 2012 (EU/world) and 2013 (US/North American) debut of the single throttle body motor. The earlier 2TB model was similar to the MKI 1TB I talk about here in size/performance, but with a different fuel system and most years with a smaller plastic fuel tank. The metal tanks started part way through 2012.
All of the 1TB smallblocks are more similar than not in the big picture of things, but there is a definite progression in size/features/power and arguably comfort. The larger the distance between the models, the larger the difference.
If you want to break it down to nitty gritties (years are US/North America, as EU/Worldwide distribution often get them a year earlier):
* MkI Heron Head 750 (2013-2015) - lightest, slowest, crudest, 5-spd, no ABS/TC, most cornering clearance (along with the earlier 2TB models) but slightly tighter ergos than later models. 31.6" seat height. Wet weight around 444# (about the same as the earlier 2TB models). There was arguably a MKI.5 when the 2015 models switched to a wet alternator. Ironically I believe output dropped slightly on that and all subsequent ones which use the wet alternator.
* MKII Heron Head 750 (2016) - still pretty light, a little less crude, 6-spd, ABS/TC, I think might have slightly taller ergos. - EDIT after researching the II vs III thread (https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=112749.new#new) The engine was tilted in the chassis this year to provide a little more room and different ergos. Pegs were also lowered. The seat height is down 0.5" from the MKI to 31.1". Wet Weight came up a hair to around 453#ish (might vary slightly by model).
* MKIII Hemi Head 750 (2017-2020) - gained a little weight, gained power you can feel in the seat and somehow more efficiency (mpg), got lots of little cosmetic improvements, it might have gained more room to the pegs at the cost of a little cornering clearance or it might be the same as the II. The seat height was lowered again and it is down to 30.3". For some reason some models don't have techs. Slightly better stock suspensions but still nothing fancy. Wet Weight increased a hair again to around 464#ish.
* MkIV Hemi Head 850 (2021-2024) - gained a tiny bit over the MkIII in power but otherwise very similar. I think they all have tach data displays, even in the single instrument bikes. Seat height came up a hair back to 30.7". Wet Weight increased a hair again to around 481#ish.
* MkV Hemi Head 850 (2025+) - comes out this year and supposedly has a # of updates, from better ECU/throttle body, to multi mapping, more advanced leaning ABS/TC, RBW, Cruise, etc...Supposedly about same size/weight as MKIV.
What else should we add to this?
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FWIW, the III 17-20 is much more comfortable than the II or I.
The 16II has ABS but I don't think it got the traction control. If it does there is no way to set it like on the III and I've never had it kick in on the II.
Also, the III is a lot easier to work on than the I or II.
The III is a lot more stable on the highway at 75+ than the earlier ones, and supposedly the newer 850's are better yet.
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When're you putting yer deposit on the V7 MkV :grin: :evil:
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FWIW, the III 17-20 is much more comfortable than the II or I.
The 16II has ABS but I don't think it got the traction control. If it does there is no way to set it like on the III and I've never had it kick in on the II.
Also, the III is a lot easier to work on than the I or II.
The III is a lot more stable on the highway at 75+ than the earlier ones, and supposedly the newer 850's are better yet.
Can you give us more thoughts on Comfort, Easier to Work on, and Stability (I'm not sure I agree with any of those but that's fine, opinion vary).
Comfort - I can see if the distance from seat to pegs is different and/or if the shocks are a tad better.
I don't understand the "easier to work on thing"
And my V7III is actually LESS stable on the highway (because like Greer's and a few others, mine has a bit of a steering head shimmy on decel/loose hands at bars.
As for the TC the V7II does indeed have it from CycleWorld:
https://www.cycleworld.com/node/10429/
The addition of ABS and traction control is a logical and evolutionary step for any Piaggio Group model, given the great competence the company has in electronics. Continental provides the two-channel ABS, while the TC is a simplified version of that found on the Moto Guzzi California, with no selectable functions. The six-speed gearbox is long overdue, and it alone justifies the "II" being added to the original Moto Guzzi V7 name. It's a compact and modern box that shifts with a smoothness and speed that the old five-speed could never match.
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When're you putting yer deposit on the V7 MkV :grin: :evil:
When I have enough in the Bike Fund, there's currently only a few thousand in it, but I'm working on it.
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I can only speak as a "Mk IV" owner ('23 Special Edition), but another thing that might help potential owners is the lighting. I'm pretty sure my '23 has all LED lighting, with the added plus of the light up "eagle" on the headlight, in addition to low beam and high beam. Also, the US versions got that awful large round taillight, which looks more like a mini headlight than a taillight. I swapped mine to the Euro version, looks much better IMO. The Mk IV's also have that offset single gauge, which may or may not trigger someone's OCD.
US version taillight:
(https://i.ibb.co/tMD9xg9t/Solo-seat-20240612b.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tMD9xg9t)
Euro version taillight:
(https://i.ibb.co/chYRQjBq/20240618b.jpg) (https://ibb.co/chYRQjBq)
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My 16MkII most definitely has TC . The first MG Rally I took it to had a grassy hill to climb to get to the road . I was bedeviled by the perceived power loss climbing out of there .As I didn’t belay the TC I used a bit of clutch slipping to make the hill . #0k Mi. Later I still get a grin when riding it . Original clutch too!
My 21 V7/850 IMHO is A big step from the MkII especially when touring .
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Kev, the V7 serries shimmy crap is very confusing. My 15 was rock stable at an honest 80-100 (GPS) so is my 17 III. Either with three bags and a windshield or stripped. But the 16 II weaves so badly I won't hit 80. Especially with three bags. I've played with the steering head bearings, I've raised the forks 20MM and put in a Matris F15 (I think) kit. About $500. The raised forks seemed to make the biggest difference.
As to working on them the 15 and 17 you can raise the forks in minutes. On the 16 the whole gauge assembly needs to come off and most likely you will break the wires on the ABS or caution yellow lights. The 16II uses the old head gaskets that like to leak and they are far from simple to change because you can't get to the screws holding the intakes on very easy as I recall. Overall, it just seems that everything I want to touch on the 16 is a PITA! JMHO!
On the 17 III the pegs are different, as are the shifter and rear brake lever also. The seating is far better because of that and the vibration is much less than the 15. Also, the clutch pull is much lighter on the 17 but nowhere near as light as on the v85's.
As to the TC I just ssumed with no adjustment it didn't have it. But, it has never been an issue.
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Kev, the V7 serries shimmy crap is very confusing. My 15 was rock stable at an honest 80-100 (GPS) so is my 17 III. Either with three bags and a windshield or stripped. But the 16 II weaves so badly I won't hit 80. Especially with three bags. I've played with the steering head bearings, I've raised the forks 20MM and put in a Matris F15 (I think) kit. About $500. The raised forks seemed to make the biggest difference.
As to working on them the 15 and 17 you can raise the forks in minutes. On the 16 the whole gauge assembly needs to come off and most likely you will break the wires on the ABS or caution yellow lights. The 16II uses the old head gaskets that like to leak and they are far from simple to change because you can't get to the screws holding the intakes on very easy as I recall. Overall, it just seems that everything I want to touch on the 16 is a PITA! JMHO!
On the 17 III the pegs are different, as are the shifter and rear brake lever also. The seating is far better because of that and the vibration is much less than the 15. Also, the clutch pull is much lighter on the 17 but nowhere near as light as on the v85's.
Thanks for taking the time.
What sub-model is your II? I ask because some of those seem like unique complaints more than patterns.
* Don't get me wrong off throttle shimmy side my MkIII does feel solid on the highway, but so is my MkI. I just haven't heard other MKII owners with a shimmy never mind a weave like you're describing.
* Possible exception of the dash I wouldn't think there's much different between the MKII with one or the other of mine and really I have no complaints about ease of service/repair on either.
* Comfort - ok so you're largely talking ergos. I can't argue that since I changed that on the MkI to open it up a bit like the MkIII. But I can't feel any difference in clutch pull between em. I'm not sure I can even tell vibration differences but I think we're in subjective territory so I don't doubt your experiences.
But again, I appreciate your perspective.
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FWIW, my 2018 V7III Milano with Guzzitech tune and Mistral exhausts was the singularly best sounding motorcycle I have ever ridden, or heard.
Oh...and my re-entry into the realm, my friends, is forthcoming (fingers crossed!)
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I made another animated GIF for comparison, including the 2014 V7, V7 II, V7 III, and V7 E5/850. This time I aligned the bikes on the ground, from the rear wheel, trying to take into consideration the listed wheelbases to ensure proportions.
Again—not perfect, but a decent display to see some of the differences over the evolution of the series.
Click to view the loop:
(https://i.ibb.co/LzkMMnWn/IMG-6760.gif) (https://ibb.co/LzkMMnWn)
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Click to view the loop:
I'd prefer a little slower switching but..
Good Job! :thumb:
(Glad I ain't a pillion on the 850 and that's some funky headlight aiming going on.)
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Kev, the V7 serries shimmy crap is very confusing. My 15 was rock stable at an honest 80-100 (GPS) so is my 17 III. Either with three bags and a windshield or stripped. But the 16 II weaves so badly I won't hit 80. Especially with three bags. I've played with the steering head bearings, I've raised the forks 20MM and put in a Matris F15 (I think) kit. About $500. The raised forks seemed to make the biggest difference.
As to working on them the 15 and 17 you can raise the forks in minutes. On the 16 the whole gauge assembly needs to come off and most likely you will break the wires on the ABS or caution yellow lights. The 16II uses the old head gaskets that like to leak and they are far from simple to change because you can't get to the screws holding the intakes on very easy as I recall. Overall, it just seems that everything I want to touch on the 16 is a PITA! JMHO!
On the 17 III the pegs are different, as are the shifter and rear brake lever also. The seating is far better because of that and the vibration is much less than the 15. Also, the clutch pull is much lighter on the 17 but nowhere near as light as on the v85's.
As to the TC I just ssumed with no adjustment it didn't have it. But, it has never been an issue.
Interesting- I have had a different experience. My daughter's bike ('16 V7II) doesn't weave except under some very specific circumstances. It is easy to work on and a joy to drive. It does have upgraded front (RaceTech) and rear (Ikon) shocks, so it is a bit too stiff. No oil leaks except for the standard 'rear drive too full'. i haven't messed with fork height, so I cannot address that. I also do not have experience with panniers- so I cannot address that either.
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Didn’t the V7-850 get some additional gusseting on the frame near the headstock, as well as a stiffer swingarm?
If memory serves…and perhaps that had something to do with wobble/weave?
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As for the head gasket, HAMLIN Cycles had a neat trick. Jim made some threaded rods that were about 4 inches long. We screwed them into the holes, dropped the new gasket on, and then placed the head on. Remove the "holders" one at a time as you screw in the head bolts. Easy as pie. he made a set for me that went with my MK I when I sold it-which was a HUGE mistake.
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Another useful comparison for some people may be the ability to reset the "maintenance" wrench icon, MkIV and likely MkV require expensive specialty equipment OR dealer service for that, but it's my understanding that on prior models with it the owner was able to reset this themselves. Not just an OCD annoyance, but a feeling that Moto Guzzi don't want or trust you to own and work on the motorcycle that you purchased.
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Didn’t the V7-850 get some additional gusseting on the frame near the headstock, as well as a stiffer swingarm?
If memory serves…and perhaps that had something to do with wobble/weave?
Yes they did and they changed the swingarm/rear as well. I have the same suspicion and always thought that something they changed for the V7III caused it in the first place.
Also I don't think Vagrant is describing the same thing on the MKII as some of us have had on the MkIII. He's talking weave, but I've got a head shake at certain speeds during deceleration with little pressure on the bars.
Another useful comparison for some people may be the ability to reset the "maintenance" wrench icon, MkIV and likely MkV require expensive specialty equipment OR dealer service for that, but it's my understanding that on prior models with it the owner was able to reset this themselves. Not just an OCD annoyance, but a feeling that Moto Guzzi don't want or trust you to own and work on the motorcycle that you purchased.
Actually that started on the MkIII models (and I assume the V9 as well).
You can get an aftermarket scan tool in the $500 take that addresses it. I've been toying with picking up one for a little more then double that which would work on our entire fleet. It would shut off the wrench on both our Duc and MkIII.
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My 16 is a stone with the twin gauges like my 15 had. I could be wrong (it's been a lot of years ago) on the 15 but I think I could raise the forks easily because the fork pinch bolts were right there. But on the 16 they are buried behind the gauges meaning everything has to come off to get at them. On the 17 III, they moved the top pinch bolts where you can get right to them.
The 16 has a weave, not a head shimmy. When you hit an honest 70-75 on a good pavement or interstate it starts. Leaning forward on the tank helps. With a 47L Givi top box and two 21L saddle bags and a small windshield, it is horrible. Removing the top box improves it, removing the windshield helps more. The side bags make little difference. Raising the forks 10MM helped a tiny bit going to 20MM is much improved. I'm on the third front and rear tire combo as of a month ago. These are both A41 90/10. Fortunatly I keep this one in S. Az. and rarely hit 70 and haven't used a top box in a year. Wilbers rear shocks, and the F15 front as stated.
This is the same basic set up
(https://i.ibb.co/kgzjmLn8/thumbnail-IMG-2095.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kgzjmLn8)
(https://i.ibb.co/jdXjR7M/v7II-0.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jdXjR7M)
as on my 17III and it's fine at any speed or load.
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Related but on a slightly different subject area..
Earlier, I noticed my back wheel rotating when my V7III is in neutral on the centre stand. It can be stopped (carefully but firmly) by hand or the back brake. Do they all do this? Related to how closely meshed the 6-speed box is? Perhaps it's not truly/fully in neutral - I'll double check.
Tomorrow, I'll check if the 5-speed 750 Breva also does this.
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Related but on a slightly different subject area..
Earlier, I noticed my back wheel rotating when my V7III is in neutral on the centre stand. It can be stopped (carefully but firmly) by hand or the back brake. Do they all do this? Related to how closely meshed the 6-speed box is? Perhaps it's not truly/fully in neutral - I'll double check.
Tomorrow, I'll check if the 5-speed 750 Breva also does this.
In my experience they do or it is at least common.
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I can confirm that I never had a weave or wobble on a 2013 V7 Stone. And I was not shy about higher speeds. Typically had 30 liter saddlebags attached.
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Normal, the EV does also
Related but on a slightly different subject area..
Earlier, I noticed my back wheel rotating when my V7III is in neutral on the centre stand. It can be stopped (carefully but firmly) by hand or the back brake. Do they all do this? Related to how closely meshed the 6-speed box is? Perhaps it's not truly/fully in neutral - I'll double check.
Tomorrow, I'll check if the 5-speed 750 Breva also does this.
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Never had a wobble/shimmy/shake on the V7III Special, I don't load it up too much, but when I have its still been fine. Speeds up to 85-90 (indicated) with load and 100+ (indicated) in flat straights--lotsa those here--been fine
My 16 is a stone with the twin gauges like my 15 had. I could be wrong (it's been a lot of years ago) on the 15 but I think I could raise the forks easily because the fork pinch bolts were right there. But on the 16 they are buried behind the gauges meaning everything has to come off to get at them. On the 17 III, they moved the top pinch bolts where you can get right to them.
The 16 has a weave, not a head shimmy. When you hit an honest 70-75 on a good pavement or interstate it starts. Leaning forward on the tank helps. With a 47L Givi top box and two 21L saddle bags and a small windshield, it is horrible. Removing the top box improves it, removing the windshield helps more. The side bags make little difference. Raising the forks 10MM helped a tiny bit going to 20MM is much improved. I'm on the third front and rear tire combo as of a month ago. These are both A41 90/10. Fortunatly I keep this one in S. Az. and rarely hit 70 and haven't used a top box in a year. Wilbers rear shocks, and the F15 front as stated.
This is the same basic set up
(https://i.ibb.co/kgzjmLn8/thumbnail-IMG-2095.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kgzjmLn8)
(https://i.ibb.co/jdXjR7M/v7II-0.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jdXjR7M)
as on my 17III and it's fine at any speed or load.
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Kev, great roll-up of info.
The changes across the range are definitely incremental, and for the most part are very improvements other than the digital dash (IMHO)
I had a bit of weave on my Stornello (Mii) untill I changed the tires. The 705s are rock solid, but to be honest, I have ZERO desire to punch above 75. I also found adding a top case and lower front tire pressure (30lbs) helped to eliminate high speed weave.
Concur with Steve that the upper pinch bolts on the V7ii are a PITA to access, bit otherwise is the same as the other models service wise.
The V7iii is smoother and more refined overall than the ii be it motor or chassis. I prefer the spunkier/raw Heron head, but the Hemi does make smoother and more power.
Though the seating position is more open on the iii, and a bit forward, I prefer the peg position of the ii. I feel like my feet are too far forward.
I have limited experience on the 850 V7s, but found great character and game changing power from the ii. I also found the front end was far more planted and stable. Not heavy, but not the feather light of my Stornello.
I'm looking forward to seeing how the twin disc USD forks on the upcoming V7 Sport. It may pry the GRiSO out of my grubby fingers.
In all, the V7 is just about the perfect all around motorcycle. Pick where you want to land in the performance spectrum and make it fit and work for you.
Want Carbs? Go for a Classic. Want FI, but no ABS/TC? V7i. Want a 6 speed with TC and ABS? Go for a V7ii. Want a bit more power with 6speed and ABS/TC? V7iii. Want all that but more power and refinement? V7850. Want TBW and ride modes? wait for the 2025's.
Which ever you choose, you can leave as is, or easily modify and transform.
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Don’t know if this might be too nitpicking, but you might consider adding the differences between shock mount placement—Mk III placed the top mount behind the side frame rail like the old small blocks, the rest of the V7s have the top mount forward, inside the side rail.
All V7s prior to IV had the same swingarm, driveshaft, final drive, and wheel size. Previous driveshaft had been around for a couple decades. I ASSUME the IV received the same driveshaft, swingarm, and final drive as the V9 E5…possibly different than older V9s (I checked once but have forgotten since).
Cast wheel design changed on the IV (aesthetically for the worse by my purely scientific observation).
IV rear frame rail changed enough so that older V7 seats don’t perfectly swap.
The Hemi exhausts are double-walled.
The hemis received a secondary air intake at the heads. (which I still need to learn about). If this is the same thing as the previous Heron head’s blow-by pipe, then it’s at least an updated design.
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GREAT ADDITIONS guys, thanks and keep it coming if you have more thoughts.
The hemis received a secondary air intake at the heads. (which I still need to learn about). If this is the same thing as the previous Heron head’s blow-by pipe, then it’s at least an updated design.
SAS (Secondary Air Systems) are pretty common in the powersports industries. They usually use reed valves and sometimes electronic control valves to introduce fresh air (O2) at the exhaust port to essentially continue burning remaining hydrocarbons in exhaust gasses thereby reducing HC emissions.
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BD9, you're the second one to suggest 30# on the front, so I dropped mine down this am. My cousin is in for a week and will ride it so I won't have a chance to try it at speed for a while.
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I'm recently on my 2nd Mk3. Both of mine started with the OEM Pirelli Diablos which I found nervous and skiddish. Can't say for sure but it there might have been some head shaking. Switching to higher grade radial tires with careful balancing was transformative, with the front feeling both smoother and more planted. Proper weight springs at both ends (with 10mm longer shocks) also improved stability while improving ride harshness.
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I'm recently on my 2nd Mk3. Both of mine started with the OEM Pirelli Diablos which I found nervous and skiddish. Can't say for sure but it there might have been some head shaking. Switching to higher grade radial tires with careful balancing was transformative, with the front feeling both smoother and more planted. Proper weight springs at both ends (with 10mm longer shocks) also improved stability while improving ride harshness.
Tires are certainly on my mind. Though I prefer to get as much mileage as a I can and that's always been on bias plys for me.
My MKI has run on Michelins (Pilot Activs and Road Classics) after the OEM Demons wore. I've not had and shake or wobble in it ever.
My MKIII only developed the shake a year or so ago as I finally wore out of the old rear Demon - but it now has a Road Classic and that didn't change anything (of course it still has the Demon up front so perhaps changing that in the future will solve it).
I will say it's relatively minor, but predictable. It could be more serious if I was ever stupid enough to let go of the bars for more than a second or two while decelerating at about 55 mph (yeah, it's that specific AND predictable).
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Want Carbs? Go for a Classic.
The V7 Classic has fuel injection.
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The V7 Classic has fuel injection.
I don't think he meant that LITERALLY - as in V7C (V7 Classic with a capital "C"). I THINK he meant "a classic smallblock (small letter "classic" as in small letter "c") like an older V65 etc.
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The V7 Classic has fuel injection.
Duh.......... That's right. The V7 Classic had Dual Throttle body Injection shared with the Breva 750. The V7i and forward was the Single Throttlebody, and two injectors. I knew it shared a platform, thought it was one of the older carb'd bikes. Got wires crossed.
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Duh.......... That's right. The V7 Classic had Dual Throttle body Injection shared with the Breva 750. The V7i and forward was the Single Throttlebody, and two injectors. I knew it shared a platform, thought it was one of the older carb'd bikes. Got wires crossed.
Or maybe he was just drinking... :boozing:
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I've had 7 big blocks over the years and loved them all. Especially the 96 1100 Sport. That thing was a freight train. Anyway, I'm in my 70's now and recently gave up long distance riding. I just don't enjoy the long slog to get to my destination like I used to. These days I prefer to load my bike on the back of my pick-up truck and drive to the "good roads". My 2020 V7 Racer takes me back to the 70's when I was riding Triumphs and Nortons. Puts the fun back into riding.
Steve
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Simply perfect. FUN is the name of the game.
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re 2016 mk11
I'm sure i can select and set traction control to level 1, level 2 ,or off by using starter button ?
chas uk
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Another useful comparison for some people may be the ability to reset the "maintenance" wrench icon, MkIV and likely MkV require expensive specialty equipment OR dealer service for that, but it's my understanding that on prior models with it the owner was able to reset this themselves. Not just an OCD annoyance, but a feeling that Moto Guzzi don't want or trust you to own and work on the motorcycle that you purchased.
I guess that there are some in the world that need a light to tell them its time to change the oil and filters... Probably the same crowd needs to have mom check it their zipper is fully up !
Personally i see this as just another item in a long list of unnecessary cost and complication that does nothing but increase prices, and decreases re-sale values... (in ALL modern vehicles)
I can't wait for the stinky but detector that will detect the closest bathroom to my current location, activate my GPS and plot the quickest route !
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I haven't had the maintenance light come on with either of my bike first service on both done by the dealer. The V7's should be coming on soon. The V100, I don't know when. Next oil change which I have done prior to the recommended mileage or the first valve service which is still quite a bit down the road. On the V7 if it is obnoxious a bit of electrical tape will fix it. :evil: On the Mandello it can't be any more obnoxious than the cruise control light flashing when cruise is on but not engaged. With this bike and my prior 1400 I have gotten numb to it and the service icon can't be much worse. If it is a light I might have to have the dealer turn it off. The dealer ain't touching either one. When I did the second service on my V7, the dealer did the first as I said, the oil drain plug was finger tight. :rolleyes:
kk
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Feel free to correct me or just ignore, but I think the purpose of this post is to be more objective and collect data/spec points for comparison, rather than subjective opinion’esque thoughts like “the III is the goldilocks”. We already have TONS of those threads throughout this forum and across the internet at-large. We should try to keep this thread on topic, because it’s quite valuable for posterity.
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I haven't had the maintenance light come on with either of my bike first service on both done by the dealer. The V7's should be coming on soon. The V100, I don't know when. Next oil change which I have done prior to the recommended mileage or the first valve service which is still quite a bit down the road. On the V7 if it is obnoxious a bit of electrical tape will fix it. :evil: On the Mandello it can't be any more obnoxious than the cruise control light flashing when cruise is on but not engaged. With this bike and my prior 1400 I have gotten numb to it and the service icon can't be much worse. If it is a light I might have to have the dealer turn it off. The dealer ain't touching either one. When I did the second service on my V7, the dealer did the first as I said, the oil drain plug was finger tight. :rolleyes:
kk
The maintenance light on my '23 is so low key that I didn't think it turned on yet at 8k miles until I finally figured out that tiny little symbol next to the gear symbol was the wrench
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The service "wrench" on my 1400 was pretty obscure so as to not be an issue. However it was easily cleared using the menu and a few extra clicks. A nice reminder.
kk
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Thanks Kev for the thread - the choice in a few months time for me to replace the B750 is V7 850 Sport or V7 850 Stone, or 2024 V7850 Stone. I hope to test ride all three on the same day, over the same course as I will have run the Breva on. Exeter up the A30 then back down to Exeter via the backroads of Devon. Should be a fun day. Highway + twisty roads + a little city. Perfect.