Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Funkeldunks on March 11, 2025, 05:34:07 PM
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I just got my 2020 v7iii special. I’d like to know if there’s a kickstand that doesn’t drag in corners as easily as the stock one. My spring is holding the stand up works like it’s supposed to. I’ve ridden mostly dirt bikes and sport bikes for the last 25 years and I realize might have to accept the “charming character “ of the stock stand. I love this bike already and won’t part with it over this but, if i could make it equal lean on both sides that would be great.
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Got a picture? Could it be bent? That or you’re really leaning, to which I say…nice.
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The stock pegs on mine hit before anything else--when I had the stock pegs. Now with lowered pegs, I just lean my body out more. Do you have rearsets on there?
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No rearsets. Here are some pics.
(https://i.ibb.co/jv7t9HSh/IMG-1719.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jv7t9HSh)
(https://i.ibb.co/HDbGJVpD/IMG-1722.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HDbGJVpD)
(https://i.ibb.co/Y4hFPxWb/IMG-1718.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Y4hFPxWb)
(https://i.ibb.co/20DF2GJq/IMG-1717.jpg) (https://ibb.co/20DF2GJq)
(https://i.ibb.co/LX9VVK5J/IMG-1720.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LX9VVK5J)
(https://i.ibb.co/tMg3xsZp/IMG-1723.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tMg3xsZp)
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It seems like you have quite a bit of clearance to the silencer.. How about using a rotary tool/file to remove some of the trailing edge of the sidestand? This should allow the stand to rise up more.
(https://i.ibb.co/C3FHf6CW/IMG-1718.jpg) (https://ibb.co/C3FHf6CW)
I may end up doing something similar, as well as trying to bend the tip outwards, for a better purchase/access, due to the proximity of my currently fitted centre stand.
(Add a bit more preload to the shocks to reduce sag and provide a little more ground clearance? Kev M beat me to this addition. :rolleyes:)
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Past that:
* Make sure preload is set properly
* Use more body English (kiss the mirror)
* Pay more attention to your line
Yeah yeah, basics. But too many take it for granted.
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I’m going to put on a stronger spring and see about that grinding idea. I think that some body English and maybe taller profile tires may be as good as I’ll get. I’m getting some battle axe scrambler tires next week. This bike feels like a blank canvas. I’m looking forward to modifying/tinkering with her. I bought the bike with only 80 miles on the clock so I’m still in the breaking period. I love that I can do the device myself. Something I never felt I could on my gsxr or 919 hornet.
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You can modify the side stand if you want, or you can remove the center stand and re install the original side stand stop.
I have the exact same situation that showed up after I installed the center stand on my 2018 V7lll Milano. At first, I thought it was the center stand that was hitting until I took a closer look. Then I realized it was the side stand hitting just as your picture shows. The original stop for the side stand stop is removed and the center stand has the bracket with the side stand stop integral to it.
I have Ikon rear shocks and a racetech gold valve and springs modified front suspension with proper sag, so it really is that the side stand stop on the center stand lowered the position of the side stand when retracted. And there is room between it and the exhaust so the stop could have been made a little higher.
John H
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You can modify the side stand if you want, or you can remove the center stand and re install the original side stand stop.
I don’t see a center stand on their bike.
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Oops! Somehow, I misread the OP and thought he had a centerstand on his v7lll.
The next thing I might suggest is to look at removing the adjustable stop on the sidestand and see if you can gain a little more clearance by removing the lock nut and or rubber bumper while still retaining some clearance to the muffler before modifying the stand.
I turned mine all the way in while retaining both the locknut and rubber bumper even though I still have some clearance before the stand hits the muffler, and I live with it. I remain very aware of the limitations while leaning left in corners on some of the secondary backroads in the Driftless area of WI.
John H
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Is the bike suspension properly valved and sprung for you and riding style? If not get it valved and sprung for you and your riding style.
The 100 year old damper rod fork tech is lacking at best. Some sort of valving like Ricor DDC or Gold Valve and springs will make the front end as good as can be and 100X better than stock. Then some decent aftermarket rear shocks buit to your secs will complete the suspension and riase the lever of the bikes performance. Unfortunately suspension's ain't cheap :(
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Keep the stand lubed or it will ratchet down as you hit bumps.
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As a matter of curiosity: do you run cross-ply/bias or radial tyres? Any pics of what remains of your chicken strips? :popcorn:
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I can't see the pictures very well on my funky laptop. The sidestand on my 2019 V7lll was so close to the muffler it was hard to get my boot on it to lower it. The tech at the dealership bent it out slightly on his own when it went in for the first service. Unfortunately that tech has moved on. I do my own service anyway.
kk
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The sidestand on my 2019 V7lll was so close to the muffler it was hard to get my boot on it to lower it.
This is the issue that I'm seeing on mine. Did the tech. do the bending out in situ? Was any heat used?
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Most will put 20 MM over shocks on or at least 10 over.
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LMFTFY
Most American 6 footers will put 20 MM over shocks on or at least 10 over.
Short-asses like m'self don't have that option. :rolleyes: (Otherwise I'd fit those Hagons that I purchased that are too long for the V7 but OK for the Breva.)
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Short-asses like m'self don't have that option. :rolleyes: (Otherwise I'd fit those Hagons that I purchased that are too long for the V7 but OK for the Breva.)
“Paging Jocelin Snow. Paging Jocelin Snow. You’re needed in a forum thread.”
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This is the issue that I'm seeing on mine. Did the tech. do the bending out in situ? Was any heat used?
I don't know. He did it in the back. I tried to add a little more but the leg is tough metal. I think he may have used heat and repainted it. At the time I had loggers boots and it was hard to catch the tang with my heel. But I now have more standard boots so all is good I can get it now without looking.
kk
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I had a look at my stand when out in the garage..
Yup, defo gonna have ground clearance issues, should I explore the edges of the tyres (actually shouldn't need to be that adventurous!). I don't really want to alter the frame, so will take the more awkward route of modifying the stand.
I need to do adjustments to the centre stand as well, so I'll do them both as part of the same 'project'.
Thanks @Funkeldunks for reinforcing my attention on stands. :grin:
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Paging Jocelin..
~30 years ago and seat height/weight wasn't so much of an issue (see my progression). The K100 fell over a few times, sometimes leaving the lift handle in my hand. I touched down the cylinder head a couple of times doing enthusiastic cornering on that bike. :shocked: Fully laden, both the Trident and Sprint ST were quite a handful, especially in the Alps and Pyrenees mountains. I frequently decked the big Zephyr, especially when paired with sticky tyres. Note: I never had the physique nor skill of Jocelin. :lipsrsealed:
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Let me jump in here. In the early V7 series sidestands would drop down during vigorous riding, and the sidestand safety switch would briefly cut off the engine. This looks a different version of that problem.
The old answers:
1. Bend the factory spring to get more pull. Take the factory spring and bend a new hook in the end. This shortens it and adds tension. Do this by taking it off, heating the end with a torch, and bending. Don’t let the coils heat up, as this removes their temper.
2. Another is to use stronger springs. Riders usually get some from Moose Racing, exhaust spring M7712 at 3.3 in (83mm) is usually used. (see Guzziology)
3. Put a copper collar on the pivot, which lessens friction. It's Jim Long's idea. Add a small segment of ½” copper pipe, available at Lowes as “repair coupling.”
Cut off a small segment. In his words; "forcing it over the shoulder of the shoulder bolt. This made the shoulder bolt fit much better in the hole that it
rides in on the side stand bracket and kept the side stand from binding up."
4. The sidestand nut might be loose. Remove the left muffler to reach the nut, and tighten w Loctite.
5. Lubricate the joint. I use a Teflon spray. This is the most common remedy.
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You could cut off the tang that wraps around the muffler. May make it a bit harder to put the stand down, but will give a fair bit more clearance. You may also be able to form the tang to sit closer to the muffler, using heat to soften the metal. Using max preload on the shock absorbers will give you some additional cornering clearance, as will raising the oil level in the forks. Fitting longer shocks and stiffer fork springs will help even more. On my KZ650, I fitted 21 mm (4/5 in) longer shocks, stiffer fork springs and raised the oil level 10 mm in order to gain a substantial amount of cornering clearance, but still ended up cutting off the tang from the center stand, since it was still dragging prematurely.
My V9 Roamer also have pretty limited cornering clearance, and the tang of the (aftermarket) centre stand will drag a little after the footpegs have begun to fold, but I am older now, and other than upping the shock preload have just accepted to corner a bit slower. Gives me more opportunity to take in the scenery.