Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: blackcat on May 27, 2025, 07:42:50 AM
-
It appears that the LCD on my 07 Norge has gone bad so I need to have it fixed or buy a new one. I have found a later model dash which they claim will work on a 1200 Breva/Norge from a source in Italy for $700 delivered compared to well over $1,200 from AF1. Has anyone installed a dash from a later model Norge on an early model bike? From my research on WG, the other option is to send the unit to Carmo Electronics in Amsterdam and see if they can fix the unit but that seems to be a hit and miss success.
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/W8oAAOSwCFxeP-dv/s-l1600.jpg)
As a side note, has anyone removed the back panel on the LCD to gain access to the corrupted board?
-
It appears that the LCD on my 07 Norge has gone bad so I need to have it fixed or buy a new one. I have found a later model dash which they claim will work on a 1200 Breva/Norge from a source in Italy for $700 delivered compared to well over $1,200 from AF1. Has anyone installed a dash from a later model Norge on an early model bike? From my research on WG, the other option is to send the unit to Carmo Electronics in Amsterdam and see if they can fix the unit but that seems to be a hit and miss success.
...
As a side note, has anyone removed the back panel on the LCD to gain access to the corrupted board?
Yes, others have opened the dash to reveal the circuit board. I found a good discussion and photos here:
https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/bns12-dash-repair.15418/
A brush-on conformal coating will prevent further damage if you are able to fix it. Be careful not to cover the air pressure sensor.
I remember a substitution of one version of this dash for another one. Some functions did not work, though the result was usable. You might compare the pin-out of the dashes in the appropriate manuals.
I took my Griso's circuit board to a computer repair tech who did micro-soldering. He said the board's components were all ordinary and that he could easily repair the unit. (The Griso dash is a simpler version.)
I've lost track of him.
-
Thanks, I got the face off and will try to remove the needles now that I see that this how to get to the board. I’ll post some pictures when I get it opened.
-
I have found the problem:
(https://i.ibb.co/VYT5THqH/IMG-0498.jpg)
I wonder if that small black part can be replaced by a computer guy?:
(https://i.ibb.co/vC1zzrj0/IMG-0499.jpg)
(http://)
-
I think what I see in your photo is a resistor. GM had many clusters in the 1990s that had problems with resistors that would fall off the circuit board and the display would go blank.
Where are you located?
-
Easily fixed (for many). Don't need a computer guy but an electronics tech. or just someone that's decent at soldering.
Once the correct part (a couple of bucks worth) is sourced, it would take about 5 minutes to replace, taking one's time.
-
I'm not sure what it is. Could be a resistor, a cap or even a diode.
A cap sometimes fails like that on its own.
If not a cap that component didn't smoke on its own.
Something died on that board and created a lot of current.
A close up shot might help tell what it is.
-
A close up shot might help tell what it is.
Click on the pic - you can see the insulation has broken down.
There's been a lot of heat in that area and agreed it isn't easy to determine the root cause of the failure but it may just be down to that one component going faulty. A circuit diagram or electronics guru should help identify the component.
-
The writing on the part indicates that it might be a diode #PJ65-GS1M
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/smc-diode-solutions/GS1M/6022522
(https://i.ibb.co/7JpMvRx1/fullsizeoutput-740d.jpg)
-
Idk, Without a schematic or possibly tracing the connections, it's a gamble.
I would have Carmo repair it because I see two burn marks on the plastic.
More stuff broken besided the diode.
-
Idk, Without a schematic or possibly tracing the connections, it's a gamble.
I would have Carmo repair it because I see two burn marks on the plastic.
More stuff broken besided the diode.
Yes, there does appear to be two burn marks but for the life of me I can't see where the second burn is on the board. I will contact Carmo and see if I can send them the photo's and see what they say as I really don't want to send this to Amsterdam and they can't fix the problem.
-
Yes, there does appear to be two burn marks but for the life of me I can't see where the second burn is on the board. I will contact Carmo and see if I can send them the photo's and see what they say as I really don't want to send this to Amsterdam and they can't fix the problem.
I looked at Carmo's page yesterday I believe they will say it will cost $400 for them to repair it no matter what was wrong. I would try to do my own repair first before agreeing to that. After all, I don't see why they would object to repairing it for $400 after I tried and failed.
-
I looked at Carmo's page yesterday I believe they will say it will cost $400 for them to repair it no matter what was wrong. I would try to do my own repair first before agreeing to that. After all, I don't see why they would object to repairing it for $400 after I tried and failed.
If I'm going to spend $400 bucks plus shipping there and back, it will be over $500 and at that price I'll just buy a new one for $700 bucks delivered. But I did send Carmo the photo's so will see what they say.
-
If we assume that the component IS the same as the other three in that bank, then I'd be inclined to buy 4 (or 5 may be cheaper) and replace all of them.
-
Wondering if any progress has been made..
:popcorn:
-
Wondering if any progress has been made..
:popcorn:
I sent Tom another dash to try. Mailed on May 29th, it was in Pensacola (where he lives) on June 4th, but then the USPS decided it needed to take a tour of the west, so on the 7th it was in Avondale, AZ! WTF?
-
.. but then the USPS ..
At least it ain't UPS "Consider it nicked" - they 'lost' a parcel that I got sent to AZ, a couple of decades ago. :lipsrsealed:
-
It arrived back in town today and I may go to the local PO and ask them to make sure it doesn't leave town again. Unfortunately if it doesn't get here today (unlikely) I am leaving town tomorrow and will be in Virginia until Monday, had I known it was going to take this long I would have just taken an extra trip to Charlies to pick up the dash.
Edit: Just got a text that it's out for delivery!
-
It showed up and I plugged it in, entered all zeros, I hit the button and the bike started! The service code popped up but not the oil can which is where this started but I replaced the oil sender switch. I need to erase the code or codes and see if that removes the message but it does have the service wrench on the screen so maybe that is the issue? The battery is charging right now so will see what happens after it’s been charged or I will just swap in another battery. When I did try to start it again, it asked for the code but I assume that I need to specifically enter a new code in the program. But it’s promising.
Thanks again Charlie.
-
So will you attempt a repair of the original, yourself?
:popcorn:
-
So will you attempt a repair of the original, yourself?
:popcorn:
No, I am going to take it to a couple of local computer repair places and see if they will solder in one or two diodes unless they want a stupid amount of money and if that doesn't pan out I am going to contact the guy who replaced the diodes on the dash of our 05 Prius. Removing that dash was not a nightmare but wasn't exactly fun and I didn't want to attempt that fix twice or possibly ruin the board so I paid him the $40 bucks for the guaranteed fix.
But before I install this dash from Charlie I'm going to do the search for whatever product others recommended for coating the circuit board to protect it from water.
-
(https://i.ibb.co/848jbqLw/IMG-20160725-175658908.jpg) (https://ibb.co/848jbqLw)
This is the coating I used, and a UV flashlight I bought to check its coverage (both from Amazon).
There was a very fragile, multi wire connector between the main PCB and something else that had to be removed or detached before I could get to the other side of the PCB in order to coat it also. I nearly broke it. I don't see this in your photo so maybe the design was changed, but this is something to watch out for and maybe to ask your electronics guru to help you with.
-
(https://i.ibb.co/WpBWBSCW/IMG-1899.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WpBWBSCW)
By the way, that black rectangular plastic housing with four corners cut out that you can see in this clipping from your photo contains the air pressure sensor that your bike needs to set the mixture. So don't cover it up with conformal coating.
-
Have a hitch, the dash will light up and bike will start only after the code is inserted, there are no ECU errors but there are dash errors:
01: Immobiliser fault: key code read but not recognized or key code not read
03: Immobiliser fault: antenna broken(open or short circuit)
04: Immobiliser fault: internal controller fault
06: Air temperature sensor fault
07: Oil sensor fault DSB
Thanks Moto, I will purchase the coating and UV flashlight once I get this all resolved.
Edit: I figured it out, the original key had to be matched to the dash so now it starts without the code and the warnings on the dash are gone.
-
Jeez I hate this crap…!
Just thinking about those beautiful 1100 Sports with smelly snorting carbs and loving the relative simplicity of them.
-
It appears that the LCD on my 07 Norge has gone bad so I need to have it fixed or buy a new one. I have found a later model dash which they claim will work on a 1200 Breva/Norge from a source in Italy for $700 delivered compared to well over $1,200 from AF1. Has anyone installed a dash from a later model Norge on an early model bike? From my research on WG, the other option is to send the unit to Carmo Electronics in Amsterdam and see if they can fix the unit but that seems to be a hit and miss success.
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/W8oAAOSwCFxeP-dv/s-l1600.jpg)
As a side note, has anyone removed the back panel on the LCD to gain access to the corrupted board?
Are they as misty in reality as they appear in the shot ?
These are mine on an ‘07
(https://i.ibb.co/39CyQnYB/IMG-4975.png) (https://ibb.co/39CyQnYB)
-
I'm pretty sure that is a piece of packing plastic covering the dash.
-
I'm pretty sure that is a piece of packing plastic covering the dash.
Ahhh….
Proper reading of original post and glasses on now… :embarrassed: :undecided: :rolleyes:
-
FYI, I have emailed Carmo a couple of times, never got an answer.
So if they respond to you let us know, as I need my LCD replaced. it has a big blank spot in the middle, making the screen useless
-
FYI, I have emailed Carmo a couple of times, never got an answer.
So if they respond to you let us know, as I need my LCD replaced. it has a big blank spot in the middle, making the screen useless
They never returned a response to my email and I decided that if I'm going to spend a minimum of $500 with shipping back and forth of my old dash that I would just buy a new one from the supplier in Italy who did respond to me regarding the code. $645.51 + approximately $46 for shipping.
If you are going to take that route they are on eBay:MOTO GUZZI BREVA NORGE SPORT 1200 INSTRUMENTATION DASHBOARD MPH/KM GREY-show original title
deal_ricambi
(774)
-
I removed the board from the white plastic mount and I'd guess that this board is toast. Plus I broke the metal bar that locks into the LCD which might be replaceable but given how burned up the board is at the capacitor?, I'm going to pass on trying to find someone to fix this part.
(https://i.ibb.co/1GDmKcLF/fullsizeoutput-745c.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/V676G1v/fullsizeoutput-7461.jpg)
-
Does the one I sent you work?
-
.. given how burned up the board is at the capacitor..
Does look kinda nasty. :shocked: [Could be like me and looks worse than it is (allegedly).]
-
I agree the board on this side looks hopeless. Though there may be some brave technician with a bottle of solvent who could clean it up to look more carefully, I would give up on it.
Condensation may have caused a short circuit across two of the closely spaced conductor tracks, as I described in a decade-old post.
A conformal coating would be the way to go for your next board. I have wondered whether a conformal coding was added to later iterations of the board, since failures seem to have decreased over time. If you have a UV flashlight you could shine it on any new board to look for fluorescence of the coating. If you see it by all means report it.
If my lawn chairs are any guide, the upper surfaces of objects collect more droplets of condensation. The surface you are now revealing is the upper surface when mounted. If you have learned tricks by disassembling your old gauge that would be sufficient to make you confident in working on a new one, I would go for it and do the coating as needed.
Excellent work. Good luck and keep us posted.
Moto
-
"Does the one I sent you work?"
Charlie, yes it works perfectly fine but I purchased the conformal coating as suggested by Moto and that is why I thought it would be best to see how difficult it would be to remove the board from the white plastic surround. And it would be pretty risky to remove it without breaking the bar which connects to the LCD. There must be some trick, like spraying that area with DeOxit?, but at this point I may just coat the easy side, shine the UV light on the flip side and hope for the best or see if I can coat that area with a thin long handled paint brush.
"I have wondered whether a conformal coding was added to later iterations of the board..."
John, I don't think this is a later board so I may go down this road again or just bite the bullet and keep my eye on a later new board though time is not on my side with that plan.
-
There are spray cans of conformal coating available. MG Chemicals (no connection) offers several kinds and has a guide to them on their Amazon product pages.
I believe that the upper surface of the PCB doesn't have any exposed contacts (or air pressure sensors!) so you might spray some coating on that side through the gap that you are able to look through. You could also recheck the upper surface of your old board to make sure that everything looks OK for coating. I would still go with the paint-on type on the other side.
-
There are spray cans of conformal coating available. MG Chemicals (no connection) offers several kinds and has a guide to them on their Amazon product pages.
I believe that the upper surface of the PCB doesn't have any exposed contacts (or air pressure sensors!) so you might spray some coating on that side through the gap that you are able to look through. You could also recheck the upper surface of your old board to make sure that everything looks OK for coating. I would still go with the paint-on type on the other side.
The spray would definitely work through the opening so I'll order a can. Thanks again.
-
If I'm going to spend $400 bucks plus shipping there and back, it will be over $500 and at that price I'll just buy a new one for $700 bucks delivered. But I did send Carmo the photo's so will see what they say.
This is what did when I wanted the correct dash in my 1200 Sport. The PO had a Norge unit in that the basic functions worked, but a few of the pinouts were off. I waited and looked for a sale, got a NOS for a good price from a reputable and esteemed vendor when they were clearing parts out.
For me it all depends on how long you plan to keep a bike, and what you want out of its functions. For me, little things like that drive me bonkers. It was pricey IIRC, but worth it. I still have the original, and plan one day to try to sort it out when I have the time. It's getting it apart that looks like the hardest part, at least for me.
-
I removed the board from the white plastic mount and I'd guess that this board is toast. Plus I broke the metal bar that locks into the LCD which might be replaceable but given how burned up the board is at the capacitor?, I'm going to pass on trying to find someone to fix this part.
(https://i.ibb.co/1GDmKcLF/fullsizeoutput-745c.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/V676G1v/fullsizeoutput-7461.jpg)
I hate it when capacitors fail, and leak. 2 years ago, I inherited a 944 from a family friend. It had sat for 10+ years in his garage. The moment I put a new battery in and turned on the key to close the windows, it sent the Climate Control computer up in smoke..... It's not just the failed and burnt capacitor, it creates problems all up and down the line. I found a place that could refurbish it, but a new NOS from Porsche was only $200 more, so I went for it.
Some things aren't worth chasing down and repairing. I'm all about fixing stuff, resoldering connections (have had to do this on several ECU units in older FI cars, but when new is reasonably in reach and you want to keep the vehicle in top shape, its the only way to go.
-
"Some things aren't worth chasing down and repairing. I'm all about fixing stuff, resoldering connections (have had to do this on several ECU units in older FI cars, but when new is reasonably in reach and you want to keep the vehicle in top shape, its the only way to go."
I agree and if it wasn't for Charlie, I'd probably take that route and be done with it.