Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: BIF on June 05, 2025, 10:39:25 PM
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Hello, I am a new bike owner as well as a new Guzzi owner and I have a few questions. And full disclosure I am an idiot, outside of a Vespa this is the first motorcycle I have owned.
A little about the bike, and yes I have used this photo before
(https://i.ibb.co/231h26BS/new-bike.jpg) (https://ibb.co/231h26BS)
I paid 2800 for it, and while it does have some issues, I think I did ok
OK initially it does look good, and it runs strong, but the wiring is shall we say special.
(https://i.ibb.co/Mx9tvcTK/headlight-wiring.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Mx9tvcTK)
Well it is 50 year old wiring and it has already caused a starting issue. I don't think I am going to completely rewire it, but I will be cleaning up the wiring and replacing some of the wires, and cleaning all the connectors and giving it a bit of dielectric grease. The wire from the start button to the starter had 3 butt connectors and 4 different sizes of wire, this will be replaced.
Other areas of concern, I would like to have a spare ignition key. It uses a sipea 50050 which I am familiar with as it is the same as many Fiat's and Alfa's in period. But the key looks a little smaller and thinner.
(https://i.ibb.co/VczqHgKv/Ignition-key.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VczqHgKv)
I am going to try to order a blank but they look like the car keys. I may replace the ignition cylinder with one I have on the shelf for a car as they look identical and I will have 2 sturdier keys.
Speaking of keys, I have none for the side tool boxes. One of the latches was broke and via this site I found a replacement at McMaster Carr and will install them. I do need to figure out how to open the other one without damaging it.
What else - I need to install the center stand and figure out the hardware, replace the rear turn signals, and it will get new tires before I drive it out of the neighborhood. And finally while looking online I found this "Fork lock" where exactly does it go, and were they not standard during time period.
One more thing, is that it came with a good amount of parts and one was the nose cone, as well as the side saddles. I don't think I am going to install it as I like the look without it. I hung it on my grill wall. Later I may install it, or sell it with the bike in 25 years. I think it looks ok on the wall.
(https://i.ibb.co/tTChL80S/wall-of-grills.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tTChL80S)
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You can buy a complete replacement harness from Greg Bender in Arizona. He builds quality stuff!
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_wiring_harness_tonti_850_t.html (https://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_wiring_harness_tonti_850_t.html)
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
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That's what I would do.
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Lots of good help for your project can be found here! Congratulations on owning a vintage Guzzi! Obtaining a copy of Guzziology would be a good investment... :cool:
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What Pat and Turin wrote about the wiring.
That key looks like it has been broken off, it should be longer. Here are some keys blank for the ignition switch:
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_tonti_keys_for_the_ignition_switch.html
A good locksmith should be able to pick the toolbox lock and make keys. If you have access, drive the hinge pin out of the toolbox to remove the lid. Here's is a listing of blank that work for the toolbox locks:
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_keys_for_tool_boxes_and_fork_lock.html
On early 850-Ts, the fork lock was part of the ignition switch assembly, not a separate lock like on later bikes.
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And the elephant in the room. Does it still have the original chrome lined bores? If it does they really should be relined or replaced. Yes $$$ but otherwise you are riding a motor time bomb. The chrome is know to flake off especially if not run for long periods of time. The T doesn't have an oil filter but just a screen making possible flaking chrome even more problem prone. Once all sorted are great bikes.
GliderJohn
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Good advice all around so far.
And I also want to stress checking what you have for cylinders. If they are still the chrome liners - do not pass GO - go directly to jail until sorted with new piston and cylinder sets.
Greg Benders looms are a thing of beauty and you will pat yourself on the back many times over your wise decision.
You are on your way to a $6000 T. :grin: Its a story that has been repeated many times, by myself included.
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Here's a link to the barrel sets. I can attest to the fact that the pain of the $$$ escaping the wallet is only temporary.
https://www.crustycycle.com/products/moto-guzzi-cylinder-complete-83mm-850t-t3-eldorado-850gt
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It looks to me that the Bender harness would be an inexpensive yet invaluable investment. I have a line on a similar bike that I was told was for sale but it hasn't planned out yet.
kk
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Your bike appears to be worth the $ for a mechanical restoration that as Dave noted will make your experience much better and you will have nice and unique bike. My dear to me T-3 has just been updated with electronic ignition, the Greg Bender wiring harness, new switches and LED lighting for it's 50th BD. Yes I have a put a lot of money into it but still cheaper than a new one, more unique and just keeps giving smiles per mile.
(https://i.ibb.co/Z18gTt2C/IMG-0380.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Z18gTt2C)
GliderJohn
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Thanks for all the good advice. I will definitely look into the new wiring harness, it seems likely the easiest and cheapest thing to do.
Good news is that the engine has already been rebuilt and has steel liners. No worries there. I may have used nikasil liners if I was building it, but I think the steel liners will be fine.
I will take the advice from Antietam on the keys for the ignition switch and the tool box.
Thanks again
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Good to hear on the motor. Greg Bender is a great guy who will bend over backwards for you. He stuff is top quality. Old wiring is old wiring and doesn't work well forever. Good luck!
GliderJohn
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Don't use Dielectric grease, that's bad.
I swear by simple Vaseline which I have used since i started my electrical apprenticeship back in the 1960s
There are 2 different wiring diagrams
USA
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1974_850T_USA.gif
Europe
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1974_850T_Euro.gif
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Thanks for all the good advice. I will definitely look into the new wiring harness, it seems likely the easiest and cheapest thing to do.
Good news is that the engine has already been rebuilt and has steel liners. No worries there. I may have used nikasil liners if I was building it, but I think the steel liners will be fine.
I will take the advice from Antietam on the keys for the ignition switch and the tool box.
Thanks again
I can heartily recommend Greg's optional accessory, the "relay solution". It adds a safety factor by eliminating high current through the switches.
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A new wiring harness and possibly a fuse box eliminates so many related gremlins. Doing it at the beginning will make life much better.
A locksmith can help with the tool boxes and ignition. My abandoned V7 Sport came with no keys, so I had it keyed. I’m not 100% certain if the ignition switches for our bikes share the same key cylinder. If so, the ignition key will have a notch cut in the back of the key so the key cylinder can be removed from the housing. If that notch is not cut because the locksmith doesn’t know it’s supposed to be there, it’s easy to damage or even break the cylinder when you try to push the pin to remove cylinder from the housing per the manual’s instructions…. And those original key cylinders (or entire assemblies) are not an easily sourced part to replace. Ask me how I know.
This pic shows my locksmith-cut key on left, with dent from cylinder release pin in key where back notch should have been which I/we didn’t know needed to be there. It worked fine until I tried to remove the cylinder.. then it got bad. The original Moto Guzzi key on the right from my long-sought replacement switch has the proper notch in the back of the blade, which allows the cylinder release pin to be properly pressed to release the key cylinder from the housing.
(https://i.ibb.co/cKkzpv28/IMG-3278.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cKkzpv28)
From your pic, it looks like your key may be broken off near or at that back notch, possibly with the rest of the key still remaining in the lock cylinder. That’s why the switch works with only part of a key. Getting out the broken part of the key may help a more accurate key to be cut, including the notch in the back of the blade. If you need more info about that back notch, get in touch. I sent you an email.
There will be initial $$$ shock & awe, but the best thing about a Guzzi is what comes after the machine is well-sorted. Once it’s done, it’s done.