Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: BrevaIsTheName on June 08, 2025, 01:10:20 PM
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Good afternoon, all! I am new to Moto Guzzis and the board in general, and have come seeking your advice. Please excuse this wall of a post, and I humbly ask that you hear my story:
About two months ago, I bought a Moto Guzzi Breva 1100. We shared 1,000 wonderful miles together before the shift return spring inside the transmission failed, falling into the gears and locking/grenading the gearbox. (Yes, catastrophically, at almost 50mph). This being my first guzzi (but not at all my first bike), I took the bike to the first guzzi mechanic willing to help me sort the bike out-- the previous owner was "gracious" enough to supply me the transmission from a 2V Norge for free to swap in.
(https://i.ibb.co/Z1NT56n4/1000061695-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Z1NT56n4)
$2,000 and a few days later, my Brevonna was back on her feet again, if not a little weary. The new box seemed to shift okay, but made a distinct warbling noise from the input shaft side of the box-- ONLY when accelerating or maintaining speed. Slowly, I kept riding to determine whether this was just another case of the infamous "standard guzzi noises". All seemed to be going well... then yesterday, something loudly CLUNKED near the input shaft side of the box. Now my gears just sound 'wobbly', like they are not meshing well or being carried adequately at all. I suspect the point of failure to be a bad input bearing and will be changing the trans oil soon-- but ultimately I don't know how many miles are on this box and want a proper Breva box back in to have this whole bike "done correctly". There were also issues with my mechanic: missing bolts, kickstand not being fastened down upon delivery, etc...
(https://i.ibb.co/QFRLQR1H/20250601-110220.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QFRLQR1H)
In short, a series of bad decisions were made in haste due to my anxiety about working on this bike myself when my previous experience has been exclusively working on chain-driven Japanese machines. I would like to have this job done right.
I have purchased a new, tested transmission from SunCoastCycleSports, and am armed with a motorcycle lift, torque-wrench, all the metric sockets and tools needed (so I believe), a label maker, spare parts catalog and factory service manual.
My background is in engineering. I am not a complete idiot, but far from experienced. I can do basic maintenance like adjusting the valve lash and checking/replacing all three fluids in the bike, but that's about as far as said experience lies.
(https://i.ibb.co/Z6FBYWZg/20250607-143240.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Z6FBYWZg)
My question, dear guzzisti, is whether this is a job I can take on-- and if so, what I need to know about it. It looks like (despite their strange design) crabbing the frame by the motor mount brackets is still viable on CARC frames, so I shouldn't have to completely drop the engine... but what should I worry about? How can I accomplish this? Is the service manual missing any critical information? I will take any advice or chastisement you folks would care to throw my way.
Grazie Mille,
- BrevaIsTheName
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Can't crab a CARC bike, frame wraps around & under the trans. Motor & trans comes out together. That is the quickest way. Been doing them 16yrs. No easy way.
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yikes... good to know, thanks for the reply. Any tricks a novice should know before attempting? I won't lie, that sounds pretty daunting as I've never had to pull a motor completely before.
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Swing arm, pipes off & TB's loose from head. Take off breather LH front on cover, enough room to go forward, tilt & roll back of trans over the lump sideplates are bolted to. Then lift frame in back & slide motor & trans out to one side. Unplug & disconnect everything
Get the service manual, it's all covered.
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Awesome! I have the service manual. Just checking, no "special" tools or major gaskets needed? I don't see any gasket between the gearbox and the motor, is that correct? Sorry for the barrage of questions, but I really appreciate your responses.
Here is my incredibly basic shadetree setup right now:
(https://i.ibb.co/5g6w2YPd/1000062484.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5g6w2YPd)
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I have a copy of the Tune up Guide for Shade Tree Mechanic, it was put out by MCNOC for tuning up a Guzzi.
You will be OK
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just found that.. this is awesome!! Thank you GuzziSteve! I'm stoked. This is my first big project and only makes me want to keep the bike for life if all works out :)
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I still have 2 of the new ones I bought in 80's. Going to work, have a 03 Stone to install clutch & fix oil leaks and put back together. Enjoy.
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For heaven’s sake don’t do it outdoors.
At least get a garden shed or something, give yourself a fighting chance at success.
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You're a brave soul for doing this outside. Not impossible, but definitely an additional obstacle for a first timer.
I'm guessing the Breva is a Norge w/o fairing. If so, you might want to do other tasks, like air filter, inner spark plugs, generator belt... check oil pressure sensor for leaks, clean the engine.
All reasons for doing this indoors.
Please post your progress.
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I wish I had space anywhere indoors. Sadly this is the only option for me at the moment short of dragging the bugger into my kitchen and going at it there... at least snacks wouldn't be a problem!
I have two jacks coming to support the transmission under the lift as the frame comes off. New fluids as well, and to top this adventure off, it's looking like I'll be grabbing a 750 Breva this weekend for an irresistible deal. ($1,000 and in need of "only" a new dash.. but we will see).
Either way, I promise to keep you all entertained throughout this. If anyone familiar with CARC guzzis has any input or tips facilitating easy remove and reinstallation, please chime in!
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Only a kitchen? Here's inspiration for you!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=b91iJMd1Nio (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=b91iJMd1Nio)
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(https://i.ibb.co/4wfRJxNZ/20231211-155109.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4wfRJxNZ)
When I moved to the new place there was no garage for the first year.
This $400 12'X15" tent with polytarp laid as a floor was the temporary solution.
Great garage built and tent now houses the lawn tractorand related devices.
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I once replaced a broken valve torsion bar in my buddy's 450 Honda in my kitchen. I was of course single and lived in a small mill house with no garage let alone much of a yard. We left on a 3 week ride through the north west with no further issues. Couldn't say the same for my BMW though.
kk
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(https://i.ibb.co/4wfRJxNZ/20231211-155109.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4wfRJxNZ)
When I moved to the new place there was no garage for the first year.
This $400 12'X15" tent with polytarp laid as a floor was the temporary solution.
Great garage built and tent now houses the lawn tractorand related devices.
This & 4 x 8 sheet of plywood to put bike on. No loosing parts in the grass.
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Good ideas from n3303j & guzzisteve :thumb:
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Great ideas! I think I will survive without the tent THIS time, but will put it on the list of things to buy before the fun purchases (exhaust, beetle map... various goodies). Thank you all for the ideas. I think I'll throw down plywood and a large tarp to watch the screws! Hopefully everything should be here by this weekend so stand-by before the updates really start coming :D Will post pic of the "operating room" shortly
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HEY !
What's all this business about working on motorbikes in the kitchen ?
(https://i.ibb.co/zHLrLzXN/PXL-20201129-215251060-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zHLrLzXN)
(https://i.ibb.co/jvbTrFgC/PXL-20201129-215428059-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jvbTrFgC)
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...And so it begins! Last night was the first day of working on the bike. Lots of prep work (thank you to the gent who suggested I use a tarp... it would have been inconceivable to do this "raw" on the grass, lol). After about 4 good hours yesterday I got the tank, fuel lines, and airbox system off. Everything is being labelled as I go, which is great because I am learning (a) where the vacuum lines go, and (b) how many of them were improperly connected or installed by the previous owner and possibly even the mechanic who I last visited. Glad I am doing this myself.
The workstation:
(https://i.ibb.co/W4Ny95SD/Screenshot-2025-06-23-1-32-14-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/W4Ny95SD)
(https://i.ibb.co/mFzBqD4V/Screenshot-2025-06-23-1-31-22-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/mFzBqD4V)
Had to stop to admire that gorgeous CARC drive line (the Breva covers/rearsets really take away from its glory):
(https://i.ibb.co/0Rjddr2S/Screenshot-2025-06-23-1-30-31-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/0Rjddr2S)
And behold, the litany of labels which will allow me peace-of-mind once the time comes to reinstall everything:
(https://i.ibb.co/BVQnG9fZ/Screenshot-2025-06-23-1-31-57-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/BVQnG9fZ)
I will also be checking the swingarm bearings while I am in here. The threads on the swingarm pin castle nut (the one that "preloads" the bearings and requires the special tool) are a little chewed up, but I think they will be OK once I clean everything. I plan to clean as much as I can with a damp rag and IPA (rubbing alcohol), then re-grease all surfaces with some lithium grease. Removing the CARC driveshaft is not a fun job but went alright once I had a buddy hammer the yoke while I pulled it.
Here is the current state of the Bike:
(https://i.ibb.co/1Jpssmvn/Screenshot-2025-06-23-1-31-02-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/1Jpssmvn)
Tonight, I will be disconnecting everything and hopefully lifting the frame off entirely. I will see about getting the new gearbox installed to the motor before the end of the night.
Folks who've done this before, how is the best way to lift the frame off the engine? Can you treat it like a tonti and "wheelbarrow" it off? Or should I be focused on lifting the bike down. Any things to watch out for?
As always, I welcome your feedback, laughter, and even your insults.
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Oh! And not to Hijack my own thread, but I was able to pick up the baby Breva last week as well: She's received new fluids and runs good, I think. I've never owned a small block so I don't know how slow they are "supposed to be" in comparison. I'm sure the crowd of people who I just offended will be happy to chime in on that fact. Perhaps the TBs need balancing?
It's very fun. I understand why people say the 1100 Breva feels a little less raw than the unchanged SB platform. Both will be kept for some time, but I will be doing a lot more cosmetic work to the 750. That will get its own thread in time!
(https://i.ibb.co/XkjKxPhR/Screenshot-2025-06-23-1-47-19-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/XkjKxPhR)
(https://i.ibb.co/RGX7thxN/Screenshot-2025-06-23-1-47-15-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/RGX7thxN)
(https://i.ibb.co/TDxsnfhB/Screenshot-2025-06-23-1-47-03-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/TDxsnfhB)
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If you take all the exhaust off you'll see the frame member under trans, you move motor forward , then twist & tilt back of trans over the mess to the outside.
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Thanks guzzisteve,worked like a charm. Long night! New trans installed. Longer writeup and buttoning her up tomorrow.
Oil in the old gearbox looks... Fine? I'm surprised. It was making some truly awful noises- clacking, random chops like things are binding... Yet totally clear. Maybe that collapsed Belleville washer issue from the early CARC model runs?
Pics below:
(https://i.ibb.co/jkQXcH14/Screenshot-2025-06-24-11-27-22-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/jkQXcH14)
(https://i.ibb.co/v6vSdSp3/Screenshot-2025-06-24-11-27-10-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/v6vSdSp3)
(https://i.ibb.co/6ch3c5ZR/Screenshot-2025-06-24-11-27-05-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/6ch3c5ZR)
(https://i.ibb.co/6CDCFPh/Screenshot-2025-06-24-11-26-58-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/6CDCFPh)
(https://i.ibb.co/qMvDRb1G/Screenshot-2025-06-24-11-26-52-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/qMvDRb1G)
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Can't crab a CARC bike, frame wraps around & under the trans. Motor & trans comes out together. That is the quickest way. Been doing them 16yrs. No easy way.
Crab/crabbing: Act of fishing for crabs.
Crib/Cribbing: Refers to a temporary structure of stacked blocks (typically wood, but also metal or composite) used to support a load, especially after it has been raised or lifted. It's essentially a method of providing a stable and elevated base for heavy objects, often used in conjunction with lifting equipment like cranes or jacks. Cribbing is used to stabilize loads, distribute weight, and ensure a safe working environment.
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Now the gearbox matches the head covers.
Great progress. I'm cheering you on.
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Crab/crabbing: Act of fishing for crabs.
crab 1
(krăb)
n.
4. A machine for handling or hoisting heavy weights.
I think we are OK here. To crab is to lift a heavy object as with a crab. To crib is to support a heavy object as with a crib.
Now let's practice our new vocabulary in a sentence:
"He crabbed the frame after cribbing the motor on a stack of dictionaries."
It is true the cited dictionary does not list this sense of crab as a verb, but the appropriateness of the usage seems clear. We are not talking about supporting the frame, we are talking about lifting it.
[/schoolmarmmode]
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*Very impressive first time attempt even against not having garage to work in. Bravo!
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Your finger nails are dirty like mine!! Ha Ha ha
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Good job, certainly doesn't look like fun and I hope to not have this kind of fun with my Norge.
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*Very impressive first time attempt even against not having garage to work in. Bravo!
I 2nd that. Impressive enthusiasm. I see red suspenders in his future!
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Thanks, all! Today we had a small hiccup but luckily it was resolved quickly. If another unsuspecting novice ever decides to be as stupid as me and attempt this, I need to make the (now obvious) note that the clutch pushrod is NOT part of the gearbox.
I had the whole frame back on with the mounts torqued and I-Marked when I bled the clutch to discover the lack of... clutch! It was like grabbing a fistful of rock; the lever had no travel whatsoever, leading to a small freakout thinking I had bought a defective gearbox. (If this sounds naive to you, you are reading the post of a guy who could barely adjust his valve clearance a year ago).
using the parts explosion in the MG spare parts catalog, I pieced together the fact that the rod shown in the clutch assembly is in fact, NOT something that stays in the transmission all the time (again... duh.)
(https://i.ibb.co/jvXg9jSR/Screenshot-2025-06-26-8-34-31-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/jvXg9jSR)
The rod here (and its bushings/thrust bearings) were not included in my new gearbox, so I was able to transfer it over from the old box by pulling the old rod with a pair of pliers and collecting the assembly as it came out. The ONE thing that worries me here is that I didn't see the input bushing on the end of the rod (12 in the parts diagram). I am **assuming** it stayed pressed into the input gear side of the box (big unlabelled part of the pic, for the uninitiated), and got close-ish to verifying this by pulling the OTHER shaft from my original failed transmission. (The fact that I have more than 1 failed transmission still being hilariously painful, but I digress.) So two separate data points confirm that the install is correct.
(https://i.ibb.co/rRzfDvFL/Screenshot-2025-06-26-8-31-02-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/rRzfDvFL)
Anyways, to make a long story short, my dear Brevonna has her clutch once again. Unforecasted rain has halted work for today, but my goal is to have the old girl completely buttoned up by the end of the weekend.
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Impressive speed and good discipline for reading the manuals.
How's the swingarm bearing looking? Any grease in there?
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Brilliant! Love a story with a happy ending! Good on ya!
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Thanks again y'all! It definitely isn't over yet, but good to know for sure. I'm still a little worried about that clutch rod bushing, but even if it isn't there, hopefully the input shaft is supported enough for it to be a non-issue when looking at "what connects where".
Yes, swingarm bearings looked pretty good actually! Likely because this old girl has barely been ridden. 20 years old and only 15,000 mi. I added a very generous helping of lithium grease and inspected the rollers which all looked good. Will be greasing the hell out of the CARC splines too when we get to that step-- maybe even today!
There was quite the mess of oil crud on the LH engine case, but the breather hose clamp wasn't even installed to the oil recovery tank, so I think that issue is/sorted. I will try and create a guide when all of this is said and done: the service manual is the best of any I've seen on previous bikes, but some steps need more detail. For example, unless you have very low-profile u-joints socket extensions (the kind that don't come from harbor-freight) it is virtually impossible to remove the clutch slave cylinder before the frame comes off and so working around the clutch line in an ergonomic nightmare. It's better to pull the line off from the master cylinder and thread it out of the frame-- this way you can also re-bleed the line and test the clutch before putting the whole thing together.
I have more to say but will do so later when I have pictures to provide intermission from the inarticulate word bombs I've been leaving thus far. If anyone has any insight into that bushing thing, do let me know!
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If I was stuck by the roadside, I’d like to have you with me. You have an indefatigable approach and a cheery good humour.
Bravo Sir…! :bow: :thumb:
Your Breva is fortunate to have you.
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Doing all this outside, I can't decide on whether you're totally crazy! :cheesy: :bow:
I hope that you give your Breva's smaller sibling plenty of lurve & attention - poor under-rated thing. It's not a "baby" it's a svelte small block, with mid-sized 750cc - the V35 is the baby!
Buy yerself a cheapo gazebo with zip up sides, for the bikes and it can even serve multi-purposes: beer tent, barbies etc.
:boozing:
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It's been done! Everything buttoned up for now. I will have to come in next week and reinstall a new swingarm pin and castle nut, since the old threads were so chewed as to prevent the nut from screwing in all the way and providing preload. It's.. rideable as it stands, but I wouldn't take it on any trips until the new one gets here Thursday.
last night I went out for a celebratory photoshoot-- while I'm still painfully anxious (and will be for the next few hundred miles), but at least "La mia Brevonna" is still a hell of a girl to look at. (see pics below)
Resident CARC experts, is there anything I should watch out for when reassembling the rear driveline? I clicked the driveshaft into the front input shaft all the way, but the rear final drive just kind of slotted into place. It doesn't have a retaining clip in the rear, does it? And is it possible for the driveshaft not to be pushed in and aligned after buttoning the whole gearbox/swingarm/FD assembly into place? Just checking all my bases here. Seeing as this is the largest job I've ever done, I will be semi-shocked to find out I did everything correctly. Currently still sweating every tiny noise that comes from the bike, but so far the actual sound from the gearbox and shaft seem to be near zero.
On a related note, how many miles would y'all need to put on a repair such as this before feeling comfortable and trusting the bike again? Everything runs perfect after about a dozen miles so far, but I don't know if that is the calm before any sort of storm!
(https://i.ibb.co/K4gKwsq/1000063705-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/K4gKwsq)
(https://i.ibb.co/DDd3MTfg/1000063748-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DDd3MTfg)
(https://i.ibb.co/HDmV1Tt9/1000063724.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HDmV1Tt9)
There are a few other things I will add after this post to any would-be shadetree mechanic attempting this job themselves, but for now I will collect my thoughts and relish in the simple beauty of this Moto Guzzi.
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The rear is assembled - driveshaft then swingarm then bolt on rear drive. Otherwise you can't get driveshaft clicked on to trans shaft while holding all that bulk & weight. Goes easier.
Glad you got it- from another shadetree, ride safe.
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Thank you!! This is exactly what I did. Sounds like all bases are, hopefully, covered. Ride safe indeed. I'm just glad this awesome community exists :)
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Okay, since I have a bit of time today I wanted to address some points that are either not mentioned in the service manual or may catch someone off-guard, should they attempt this repair on their own.
- When removing the clutch slave cylinder, ENSURE you have a push rod from the old gearbox or on hand, ordered as a separate part. The two rear bushings near the thrust washer stack come out, but the far (cylindrical) bushing is retained in the gearbox.
- The gearshift linkage is awkwardly held hanging until the side cover/rearsets are reinstalled. There is no direction specified for what angle it should be installed along the gearbox splines. Make a note of where yours was installed or prepare to adjust the linkage as necessary. A linkage installed at too low of an angle will catch the frame, making it feel like 1st gear won't engage and leaving only half shifts. Addressing this early will spare you the heart attack of thinking your brand new eBay transmission is faulty!
- The thick part of the cardan unit attaches to the input shaft of the gearbox. The yoke has a retaining clip which affixes it to the shaft. You will know it's installed correctly when you hear a click, but taking it out can be a pain. The only effective way to remove the shaft is to have a friend hit the part of the yoke closest to the gearbox with a hammer or mallet while you pull simultaneously. Make sure to grease liberally upon reinstallation.
- Take photos and pay attention to the original routing of vacuum and fuel lines. The bike was assembled very carefully with attention to this detail, so you must do the same.
- Since this is such a big job, I implore you to I-Mark everything. Use a paint marker to draw lines across fasteners and their mounting points. Use a torque wrench. Go slow. Write everything down. This CANNOT be done in an afternoon by your average joe, so don't count on your memory as it will fail you.
(https://i.ibb.co/v4DCZHsW/workstation-set-up.jpg) (https://ibb.co/v4DCZHsW)
Having an organized workstation helps a lot-- stay organized, go slow and think like an engineer. Then you will be fine.
...unless this job catastrophically fails. In which case I will be back here with even more updates and a much, much more frantic warning!
[/list]
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The measure of success does not lie in the gearbox, it lies in you.
A display of grit and determination whatever the outcome. I would not have had the balls.
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Ciao a tutti,
apologies for reviving a somewhat dead thread, but the Guzzi from hell saga continues. I've put 250 miles on my new gearbox with no issues.. but something didn't feel right in my gut. There was a sort of clacking from the rear wheel/tire; Google told me I was hearing the power pulses from the V2. Then, there was a constant sort of roar from the tires: again, people told me the big block was louder than the SB guzzis so I shouldn't worry. Lastly, the infamous CARC "clunk" from the gear dog clearance seemed worse than ever-- almost unlivable compared to my small block 750.
This Sunday we investigated. Upon draining the CARC Final Drive oil, I was greeted by this horror:
(https://i.ibb.co/HRXygcQ/Screenshot-2025-07-13-10-07-03-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/HRXygcQ)
WOW! The main bearing was T.O.A.S.T. Moving the wheel around felt okay when the mass of the tire could absorb any vibration, but once removed the bearing felt like grinding stones... I have no idea how a failure mode like this even occurs but nonetheless, I spent the afternoon swapping a new CARC unit in. I am told these things can't really be serviced, is that true? I would love to rebuild the original unit with new bearings if possible.
With the new CARC in, the bike is nothing short of revelatory. Half the driveline slop has vanished entirely, the ride has become silky smooth, and the bike is literally quieter than my 750 Breva (save for that intoxicating intake howl!). It is even possible that the "input gear noise" I was hearing from the 2nd (Norge) transmission was just the bearing, since the strange clicky/whirry noise persisted with the new GB install.
(https://i.ibb.co/7xPjwpff/Screenshot-2025-07-13-10-06-54-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/7xPjwpff)
In a seemingly fitting end, the 1100 is back to being a Franken Guzzi with more Norge parts carrying her forward on her long march through time. Two things stick out to me that need to be noted:
- My mechanic lied to me about having checked and replacing all fluids in the bike. I spent $2,000 for someone to lie and steal from me when they had been paid to check everything-- truly frightening.
- At this point, almost the entire bike has been gone over. The CARC has been replaced, drive line inspected and greased... short of catastrophic engine failure (which I wouldn't rule out given the sort of demons which has possessed this poor bike) I can keep this bike forever now. If this was a japanese bike, there would be no way for me to have done the repairs as easily as this. Guzzis are genuinely the best bikes to learn how to wrench on, and if this clueless knob can do it so can you.
(https://i.ibb.co/LHqtg68/Screenshot-2025-07-13-10-36-31-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/LHqtg68)
(https://i.ibb.co/4xFBgRL/Screenshot-2025-07-13-10-36-21-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/4xFBgRL)
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Actually Brev, good threads never die.
Speaking of which…
If you search an old thread of mine..
“Sometimes it all lines up just perfectly” and read from reply #39 onwards, you’ll be able to read the account of when my ‘07 Norge dumped it’s preload and shredded a goodly percentage of it’s internals. Pete Roper fixed an “unserviceable” CARC and I proceeded to go to Europe on it for the Guzzi 100 th…
It has now done 40,000 km on the repaired item.
Yes they can be fixed, if you live in the South East corner of Australia…
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"I am told these things can't really be serviced, is that true?"
Pete Roper rebuilt one and there may be a thread somewhere about how he rebuilt it, but from memory it wasn't easy.
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Actually Brev, good threads never die.
Speaking of which…
If you search an old thread of mine..
“Sometimes it all lines up just perfectly” and read from reply #39 onwards, you’ll be able to read the account of when my ‘07 Norge dumped it’s preload and shredded a goodly percentage of it’s internals. Pete Roper fixed an “unserviceable” CARC and I proceeded to go to Europe on it for the Guzzi 100 th…
It has now done 40,000 km on the repaired item.
Yes they can be fixed, if you live in the South East corner of Australia…
I DID read that thread! Originally I was worried I was having the same issue when I heard all my noise, but my FD was actually totally quiet when coasting and only made noise when accelerating. Very strange things. I will say, now that the problem (which has been ongoing likely since I bought the bike) has been cured, I have a whole new appreciation for CARC bikes. I was starting to hate them but a well-sorted CARC is a smooth, dead-quiet killer of a guzzi. The 2nd CARC I had was a Norge spare and I am a little worried as to why it was just lying around, but hopefully I have exhausted all my bad luck with parts after two failed gearboxes and a bad CARC :)
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Make sure the pinion nut has a good dose of threadlock on it…
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There is a thread on guzzitech about CARC strip for bearing replacement.
They used a heavy duty press. Maybe a good dose of heat will work.