Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Mwether on July 29, 2025, 04:59:26 PM
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The EV Touring and I had a heck of a first date: 900 miles from Bonner Springs, Kansas to Arden, North Carolina.
While I wish I'd been able to meander more, I had to make time and travelled mostly on interstates.
For what they are worth, my initial thoughts are below.
PROS
1. Floorboards, where have you been all my life?! The variety of foot position they allow is outstanding.
2. Big beautiful mirrors. I can see all of America back there!
3. Bags, 40L is a lot of room! (I’d like to get the topcase too.)
4. Seating position, incredibly comfortable lower body position (from the waist down)
5. The constant vibes are the good kind, not the kind that put your hands/feet to sleep.
6. Range seems good, despite some reports to the contrary.
7. The FWP tank might be the best shape ever for grabbing with your knees.
8. Lafranconis, which sound amazing. Maybe a touch TOO amazing. I wish they hadn’t been drilled out. Can you reinstall baffles?
9. Outsider. May change the oil soon just to establish a baseline. It will be far easier!
10. Emotionally, it’s a VERY endearing bike. Not sure if it’s female or male. Its appearance is beautiful and voluptuous, and it’s also somewhat coarse and unrefined.
CONS
1. The functionality and aesthetics of the current windshield, which are (for me) sub-par.
2. Upper body ergos also seem really good, but I got a serious ache at the base of my neck. Could be related to turbulence? See #1.
UNDECIDED (COULD BE USER INEXPERIENCE/ERROR)
The engine really never smooths out. It vibrates LESS, but it’s never smooth, i.e. the big beautiful mirrors are blurry no matter what. This is probably just a Guzzi thing, right?
It is an absolute top-heavy beast at slow speeds. Glad I’m being coached by Gastonia PD motor cops on 8/16.
https://www.bikesafenc.com/class_detail.lasso?ids=1696283825AD&-session=bikesafe:480EC9E211b4d310DDS g227C794A (https://www.bikesafenc.com/class_detail.lasso?ids=1696283825AD&-session=bikesafe:480EC9E211b4d310DDSg227C794A)
Also learning the specifics of the advice that goes, "It's a Guzzi, rev it." The engine is definitely happiest between 3000 and 5000 rpm, but the fueling/throttle can be snatchy or jerky when you're there. I'm still getting used to it.
Speaking of getting used to it, I found neutral exactly once on purpose. I found false neutrals about 567 times by accident. Misadjusted lever? Poor technique on my part? Downshifts seem to be very finicky when it comes to rev matching?? I probably didn’t do that very well, since I’m still learning the engine/trans.
TO DOS
1. Broken rear signal stems. There are lots of options at Harpers; the most expensive ones (best quality?) are sold out. It’s like BeadRider all over again!
2. The blue highbeam dash light does not illuminate.
3. The "eye" on the forward mount for the right bag frame has broken and disappeared.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Ride/Gathering-the-Goose/i-5FTWs72/0/KnVgVVNLGRPJxfGjPSkQGhkmbH7svXwQqXw9Lnmtt/X3/PXL_20250729_215308641-1753826025693-X3.jpg)
In short, if I could get some still air from 70-80mph, I would be a VERY happy clam.
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As far as I know, turn signal stalks are unobtainium. You'll need to 3D print some or find another style you like.
I don't have a Tourer and know nothing about fairings, but maybe just a windshield would be more to your liking?
I gave up many many years ago on trying to find neutral on purpose. I hit it accidentally between 1st and 2nd maybe 25% of time. Much less between 2nd and 3rd. I've just accepted hat this is the way.
I keep mine 3000-3500 RPM. My mirrors don't shake.
-AJ
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I also have found it has much less vibration at 3,000 to about 3.300 RPM so spend most of my riding time in that RPM range. The dealer told me when I bought it to run it at 5K but I find the vibration much worse there.
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Fill the bars with lead birdshot. May not get rid of the vibes completely but will help a lot.
Pete
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Fill the bars with lead birdshot. May not get rid of the vibes completely but will help a lot.
Pete
I'd suggest copper BB's or nickel shot. Less environmental impact. After a 'long' time, the lead wears down and produces a lot of lead dust, which isn't healthy to anything living.
The neutral issue might be one of several adjustments- the clutch (at the handle) should have a couple mm play before the cable even tightens up (it needs freeplay!). The bushings in the heel-toe shifter could be worn. Does the shifter move in and out? It's an easy fix. There are several linkages at the helm joints that might need adjusting to take up slack.
Also- don't be in a hurry to shift. These old 5 speeds are like....clutch engage....(pause)...shift...(pause)...clutch disengage, all while sorta matching revs. Just don't be in a hurry.
Thi is a hydro motor? Should be pretty smooth- I run mine at 3-4K pretty often in town, but on the road it seems happier at 5k rpm. I wonder if the throttle bodies need to be synched?
another edit- regarding the fairing- I have a bikini fairing on mine and it works really well- just enough deflection to keep me in a relatively smooth pocket. But fairings are very user-dependent. Oh- the other fairing success I have is a MRA shield on my BMW that has an airfoil deflector- that thing works great.
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I was wondering.......... .....
I put the same front fairing on my Jackal. Shield was about the height of yours, too. Completely unacceptable. I had Clearview make me two. One was 14 inch high for winter and the other was 12 inch high for summer. The 1st one sits about 4 inches above the top of fairing and the other one is only 2 inches above. Both work-the taller one has a bit of wind noise but neither buffet.
Fairing off completely is nice but not for long stints here out west-tends to blow me off the bike at the 80 plus everyone travels here. Yea, yea, I know. Back roads. Out west that's not always available.
I shipped them my tall screen when they were making the new ones so they had a templet. It worked out perfect.
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I had to replace the bushing where the shifter goes into the tranny. My Jackal goes "snick-snick" into N with zero issues.
And I don't even think about 5th until at least 80 indicated.
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Its appearance is beautiful and voluptuous, and it’s also somewhat coarse and unrefined.
I had a girlfriend like that once....
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CONS
1. The functionality and aesthetics of the current windshield, which are (for me) sub-par.
2. Upper body ergos also seem really good, but I got a serious ache at the base of my neck. Could be related to turbulence? See #1.
In short, if I could get some still air from 70-80mph, I would be a VERY happy clam.
The first week of May 2005, I bought my brand new 2003 EVT as a holdover from Moto International, in Seattle Washington. I did a Fly & Ride back to Lincoln, Nebraska with a "break-in oil change" in the Walmart parking lot in Missoula, Montana.
At 6' 1" I too, had the buffeting issue you spoke of. Upon my arrival I promptly ordered the extra-tall extra-wide replacement windshield linked below.
The company was operating as Gustafsson Plastics at that time.
I have found it to be GREAT at reducing the buffeting to the point I no longer have an issue and zero instances of the neck numbing.
Good luck with your EVT and as others have said, keep the revs up.
https://gpcycleworks.com/products/moto-guzzi-v-11-ev-california?variant=50622890967319
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As far as I know, turn signal stalks are unobtainium.
I need to call Harpers. These are the first two results, but they have close to half a dozen different options. I can't really tell what the differences are or which bikes they fit...
California Turn Signal Stem 1204260 (Just sold out in the last few days!)
https://harpermoto.com/products/california-turn-signal-stem (https://harpermoto.com/products/california-turn-signal-stem)
Copy of TURN SIGNAL STEM (#1204230)
https://harpermoto.com/products/copy-of-turn-signal-stem-1204230 (https://harpermoto.com/products/copy-of-turn-signal-stem-1204230)
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Don’t bother trying to fix the stock turn signals. The lamp housings melt and have to be replaced. Just get some aftermarket ones. Vibes shouldn’t be that bad. Sounds like the throttle bodies are not synced. Best done with vacuum gauges or carb sticks.
Pete
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The first week of May 2005, I bought my brand new 2003 EVT as a holdover from Moto International, in Seattle Washington. I did a Fly & Ride back to Lincoln, Nebraska with a "break-in oil change" in the Walmart parking lot in Missoula, Montana.
Great story! :thumb:
At 6' 1" I too, had the buffeting issue you spoke of. Upon my arrival I promptly ordered the extra-tall extra-wide replacement windshield linked below.
The company was operating as Gustafsson Plastics at that time.
I have found it to be GREAT at reducing the buffeting to the point I no longer have an issue and zero instances of the neck numbing.
Thanks for this.
The site says the extra tall is 7" taller than OEM! Do you look over that screen or through it?
At 5'8", I should probably stick with the standard height??
What's on it now is an OEM with multiple vents and cut down to about 8" above the chrome band on the fairing.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Ride/Gathering-the-Goose/i-58WdVn9/0/NKrcPXTnJvZ5F9tQ5xPSrZz4wrqP5DprXC2xnzxZN/X2/PXL_20250730_002022604-X2.jpg)
On top is a 5" lip, which (with an inch of overlap) takes the total height to about 12" above the chrome trim.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Ride/Gathering-the-Goose/i-Nq3ZjJw/0/LbvSzdpc3V2HdLd8zXGnN2j2Qj8c7nmgTJQXTXXBf/X2/PXL_20250730_002039025-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Ride/Gathering-the-Goose/i-m47tZ8F/0/Ng2vFZX3ddRcJcTmt7j93hPs3gxdxZqbvS6RHLhpP/X2/PXL_20250730_002055679-X2.jpg)
This set up actually works better when I put the lip in a more vertical plane than the screen (side view below). The trouble is, high speed air pressure overwhelms the friction setting, the lip gets pushed back, and the turbulence returns.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Ride/Gathering-the-Goose/i-8sXdhwH/0/M9LzkvpBBJVW3GBSCw6KGFk9WDnBFJ5ndHPQzzSxQ/X2/PXL_20250730_003858594.PORTRAIT-X2.jpg)
For the record, I can look over the 12" total height.
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Good write up.
I am sorry the bag mount broke, from vibration I suppose.
As to the windshield, I would try the taller one at Harpers that we spoke about.
Synching the throttle bodies is probably a good idea and replacing the air filter while you’re at it.
Check out this link for turn signals too; https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4354
RideOn!
inditx
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I recently bought just the stalks from Harpers. It is a newly available item according to Curtis. They are currently out of stock, but I am sure they will be restocked Give Curtis a call tomorrow.
https://harpermoto.com/products/california-turn-signal-stem?variant=46299372716247
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I had a girlfriend like that once....
LOLed at that one! :laugh:
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Well, glad ya made it! Others have chimed in, but I will dd my 0.02--
Mine is smoothest at about 4000-4500 rpm. Yes, the mirrors are great, but they are still blurry with the vibes. Maybe TB balancing might help. I havent done that yet, probably over the winter do the whole TPS sync.
Windscreen--Ahh, I didn't realize there were giant holes in there! That would certainly affect things. The extender I have is from KemiMoto, hold up OK when put vertical, but at higher speeds will get pushed down again. As I said before, I get too much still air, have to poke my head up to get airflow thru helmet. Luckily there's lotsa options for higher plexiglas/go naked/Nat'l Cycle.
I am gonna order an outsider from Harpers to do this winter. I did notice that he did have Cali turn signal stalks, along with an unobtanium RH ride TB chrome cover (which I promptly bought)! So he must have found a guy to make or 3D print the turn stalks. Call Curtis up and ask, he responds to phone calls better than emails.
Yes wayy topheavier than my other two. I did a class as well awhile back with Jerry Paladino (Motorman, he is local), should repeat with this bike. More training is always good.
Bummer on the bag mount, they really are roomy. A trip to a welder should take care of that, unless you are skilleld enough!
Lastly the neutral--well, that's the Guzzi charm--my V7III gets cranky like that, and its a lot newer. EV does too, both when hot--which is a lot here.
Good luck with it and maybe I will see you on teh road sometime!
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Shifting. At just about stopped speed shift to first, then "tap" the heel. Should go right into neutral. Again. just tap about a half of a push to shift, do not push.
Tom
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Double check the throttle body balance before you go overboard on weights in the bars and such.
In over 300,000 miles on various Moto Guzzis, I never had an issue with vibration (except for those original Stelvio mirrors).
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Thanks to y'all, some consensus advice is emerging...
1. Check TPS and throttle body sync first.
2. Change air filter. (A new one came with the bike.)
3. Delay screen changes for now. (I've tightened the screws in the lip as much as I can. Maybe that will keep it in place at highway speeds?)
I'm adding the above to the simpler to-do list:
1. High beam bulb
2. Rear signal stalks
3. Bag mount to welding shop for repair. (Eye needs to accept an 8mm bolt.)
I also may shoot some video of the shifting linkage. It seems really sloppy, but what do I know?! :grin:
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Know someone with a 3D printer? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6237141
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I also may shoot some video of the shifting linkage. It seems really sloppy, but what do I know?! :grin:
Wildguzzi member Lee Bruns used to make a bushing for the linkage. Shoot him a PM.
-AJ
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The sloppy shifting can be helped a great deal with improved linkage, Lee Burns a member here at one time sold replacements reasonably, contact him, he just replied to a post about Guzzi dealers in South Dakota.
The Heppco Becker bag brackets are prone to breaking, I welded mine when I first saw the cracks, however possibly due to my subpar welding skills and or the vibration they both developed cracks again. I finally welded a common steel washer on the inside of the bracket mount and haven’t had a problem since. If you don’t weld yourself either find a friend or a local shop to weld on the washer, and build it up to match the missing front part.
You might as well take the other one in and have it reinforced at the same time. I was able to grind off the extra washer sticking above and below the original, a little chrome paint most people and you won’t see the difference.
Simple job shouldn’t take much over 10-20 min, probably less time than it takes to get them off.
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Roger and thanks on the Lee Bruns bushing suggestion. Sounds like a great tip! :thumb:
Below are twelve exciting seconds of shifter wiggling. :grin: What do you think? A reasonable amount of play?
https://photos.smugmug.com/Ride/Gathering-the-Goose/i-C3kFJHC/0/NPMq95vkwdGTnz5FsqZrjtZHbX6tCZMCC4jDBg32n/1280/PXL_20250730_194524506-1280.mp4 (https://photos.smugmug.com/Ride/Gathering-the-Goose/i-C3kFJHC/0/NPMq95vkwdGTnz5FsqZrjtZHbX6tCZMCC4jDBg32n/1280/PXL_20250730_194524506-1280.mp4)
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To start with, the shift arm on the back of the trans looks like it might be loose and pivoting on the shaft. The shaft and arm have splines. I would look closely and see if it is just the arm moving on the shaft. If so, try tightening the bolt that secures the arm. If not, then it's in the trans.
Tom
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I test rode this 03 EV Hydro beauty recently - it has the barn door windshield on it - while ugly I found it worked very well for me, 5" 9 as I like nose height just looking over it while wearing my flip style helmet with face shield open all the way. Perhaps you can find one like this - protection while keeping the classic guzzi factory style?
(https://i.ibb.co/RkkzvRKR/518414729-24331657349763505-7376666076665337323-n-jpg-5256f64c9c5c3e9819d3b18c081b1956.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RkkzvRKR)
(https://i.ibb.co/7dyn6xyJ/00p0p-lt3-DBq-Zy-UBV-0l-O0t2-600x450.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7dyn6xyJ)
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I don't know what happened to my post. Here's the short re-post.
I put the same fairing on my Jackal. I have a custom screen Clearview made for me. Top of screen is only 2 inch above the top of fairing. Small.
Blocks all chest wind and helmet is in clear air.
I'm 5'11" with 32" inseam. I tried several taller screens-like five at different heights. All buffet at speed. Not so with the shorty.
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To start with, the shift arm on the back of the trans looks like it might be loose and pivoting on the shaft. The shaft and arm have splines. I would look closely and see if it is just the arm moving on the shaft. If so, try tightening the bolt that secures the arm. If not, then it's in the trans.
Tom
Whoa, Tom! Good eye! :thumb:
Here's a clip from underneath. It certainly looks like there's a fair bit of slop there. It also looks like I have to disassemble about 80% of the bike to get to that stinking screw?? :grin:
https://photos.smugmug.com/Ride/Maintaining-the-Goose/i-3tFX7JM/0/McMwF4xCqjTSBRw4MQWtXr88MmVJqrvr9QZj99fSP/1280/PXL_20250730_233726397-1753919117262-1280.mp4
Bit of an oily mess too. I suppose, on a bike of this vintage, it could be leaking from just about anywhere?
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A cautionary tale about fly and ride deals?
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A cautionary tale about fly and ride deals?
Still TBD, I think.
It MAY be a cautionary tale about buying near-antiques! :grin:
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Just about all of us with EVs have fixed some of those reoccurring problems. You'll be able to search the forum and find some of the various solutions and get it sorted out. :boozing:
Altogether seems like a pretty nice machine. :thumb:
They'll get you around
(https://g2.img-dpreview.com/E118847B9B2E4890852FBE215A228ABE.jpg)
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Not cautionary at all. I bought a 2001 Jackal that was taken care of really well. I still put 2500.00 into it to make it as new.
Charging system renewed, all new rubber and lines, wheel bearings, front fork rebuild, new shocks, you get the idea. Yes, new bushing on a sloppy shifter, too.
Bike was over 20 years old. To expect anything less is, IMO, a poor expectation.
he did great on this bike. It will need a few things. It's older. Stuff ages and wears.
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On the shift arm. It sure looks to me like it's moving on the shaft and not fully on the shaft (you need just enough clearance to not bind against the case). I would get creative with a wrench and tighten the bolt.
You "should" be able to get to the bolt from outside the frame, just under the seat lock. You "may" need to remove the pivot lever (the lever with the bolt through the frame) and the linkage from the shift arm to get a wrench in there. Maybe a wrench under/over the swing arm may just get on there?
Tom
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You'll be able to search the forum and find some of the various solutions and get it sorted out.
Sure enough! :thumb:
One link that came up more than once in older threads on the topic was to John Clay's site. Seems that the loose shift arm phenomenon is a pretty common problem. http://www.motoguzzicalifornia.com/2013/11/shift-linkage/ (http://www.motoguzzicalifornia.com/2013/11/shift-linkage/)
I actually see it as a testament to the bike's durability that it got me 900 miles in this condition. Of course, now I won't ride it around the block until I fix it! :grin:
It seems like 1) seat off, 2) battery out, 3) battery tray out is the way to gain access, but there was also some guidance to take off the side panel(s). I started on the left and imagine my surprise in finding this!
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Ride/Maintaining-the-Goose/i-wQrZd55/0/NdDb5kSvQNjtPhsbV3XwrFsFQqcBzBrRGzWhn77mS/X3/PXL_20250731_005903026-X3.jpg)
Had no idea it was there and am not quite sure what to think of it...
They've always struck me as a needless complication in a tug-o-war with the bike's own ECU.
Thoughts?
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On the shift arm. It sure looks to me like it's moving on the shaft and not fully on the shaft (you need just enough clearance to not bind against the case). I would get creative with a wrench and tighten the bolt.
Thanks for this, Tom. On it tomorrow! :thumb:
ETA: I'll try the angles you suggested, but it's TIGHT in there.
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Just under your key fob. Might just be able to get in there and a 1/8 turn at a time???
Last resort to tighten the bolt would be the battery tray. Might have to mess with the air box. But if you need to replace the arm, that "may" be the most accessible way?
Tom
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Lots of opinions on the PC.
I did two bikes with it, not Guzzis, and they were perfect. A/F ratio was consistent and perfect all along the rev range.
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I too was a little concerned with the "slop" in the shifter lever when I had an EV. And I did replace the bushing with a Lee Bruns bushing. Lee's bushing was a little tight but easily sanded out to shift smooth. But, it didn't really change shifting action. After every thing I read, the factory intentionally engineered the play in the lever. I think they might have been right.
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Since the previous owner(s) did an exhaust crossover and “modified” ahem, the mufflers, the PC is usually helpful.
Funny, I ddin't know it was there either.
inditx
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Ride/Maintaining-the-Goose/i-wQrZd55/0/NdDb5kSvQNjtPhsbV3XwrFsFQqcBzBrRGzWhn77mS/X3/PXL_20250731_005903026-X3.jpg)
Thoughts?
A Power Commanche!
I had one on my 2004 EV. About 1000 miles from home I started getting intermittent cutting out that I had to put up with for half a day. Unplugged that box and fixed it. Now you can use GuzziDiag to get better mapping results IMHO.
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I had Power Commander on my ‘98 but that had a different computer and I don’t recall the buttons to adjust the mixture. Any changes had to be done with a computer adjusting the map. Made huge difference though.
In this case if the PO was making his own changes then the only way to know how close it is to ideal is to take somewhere that has a dyno and can remap the PC. Might be contributing to your excessive vibration too.
Pete
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Mark at the Elk Park Motorcycle campground could tune it up properly if he is still working on bikes after the horrible flooding.
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On the shift arm. It sure looks to me like it's moving on the shaft and not fully on the shaft (you need just enough clearance to not bind against the case). I would get creative with a wrench and tighten the bolt.
Thanks again, Tom! :thumb:
Account of wrench (or hex key) creativity at link below!
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=123691.0 (https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=123691.0)
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Since the previous owner(s) did an exhaust crossover and “modified” ahem, the mufflers, the PC is usually helpful.
Funny, I ddin't know it was there either.
inditx
I didn't, either... LOL... Never had that side cover off. Just rode it for 2.5 years to a few lunch rides and a few campouts.
I never had the tank off, either, but from the intake noise I suspect the top of the airbox has been ventilated.
It ran good and returned 40 mpg for me, so I never pulled the side covers or the fuel tank...