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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Dr. Enzo Toma on August 23, 2025, 10:43:03 PM
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I left Colorado this morning on my 2022 V7 850 Stone and made it into Kansas where I noticed oil on the rear wheel. I was hoping it had been overfilled. I had recently had the 12.4k mile service done, so I phoned the service department and described that the oil was seeping from the pinhole on the bottom, was told that it was likely just overfilled which eased my mind so I cleaned it up with brake cleaner and rechecked in 100 miles at the next gas stop, where unfortunately it was made clear it's not an overfilling issue. I'm guessing a seal has failed. I was shooting for Chicago by Monday, but I'm thinking tomorrow I will ride to an auto parts store, then drain and measure the final drive oil to have an idea of the loss, refill it, and ride ~200 miles to get a hotel near Harpers Moto Guzzi in Missouri so I can get in there at open on Monday and hopefully get something scheduled.
From what I'm reading in the service manual and online discussions, there's no way to check the final drive oil level other than draining it and measuring what comes out. Is that correct for the V7 850? The spec I found is 160cc of 75W-140 for a drain and replace (180cc from dry). Any other suggestions or possible roadside solutions before I limp it to Missouri? Thanks in advance.
(https://i.ibb.co/9HHSytmg/PXL-20250823-232405105.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9HHSytmg)
(https://i.ibb.co/HL86PBB9/PXL-20250824-011555490.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HL86PBB9)
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If it doesn’t say in the owners manual for the E5 models, previous small block manuals (along with multiple other shaft-drive motos like the BMW boxers) note that the pumpkin should be filled through the side until oil starts coming out, so you could simply open up the side port screw and see how much comes out. Keep in mind—the pumpkin should be as level as possible for this to be accurate.
I’m surprised to see they finally added a moisture drain port at the rear of the swingarm.
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Sorry, one other note—if you’ve done multiple long days in various atmospheric conditions, including hot, cool, humid, dry, rainy, elevation changes, etc., it could be that some moisture was drawn into the pumpkin, making it overfilled.
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Just 5 ounces is all you need. Never fill to the level check becease it isn't one. 75-140 or similar. I'd also pull the vent on top and see if it works.
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…Never fill to the level check becease it isn't one…
Guzzi sure thought it was for the small blocks—at least up until the E5 bikes. Most of the pre-E5 manuals I’ve looked at show this:
(https://i.ibb.co/fdXMC1TS/IMG-7980.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fdXMC1TS)
They changed the instructions on the E5 bikes to a smaller volume to account for the residual oil left in the box (similar to how engine oil change is considered with or without the engine filter replacement:
(https://i.ibb.co/sJHfXNFX/IMG-7982.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sJHfXNFX)
I definitely feel that was a wise decision. Seems like every other dealer likes to overfill them.
I would imagine it could still be used for checking the level, but I’ll defer to stronger opinions.
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Lots of old threads here and elsewhere about leaking V7 rear ends. I've had two. Both cured with 5-5.4 onces.
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I've heard this myth that Guzzi rear drive fluid plugs are NOT level plugs. I've heard it so much I've always measured what I drain and what I replace.
Thing is, everytime on various different Guzzis I've owned the measured amount comes more or less up to the base of the threads of said plug.
I think it's another case of much ado...
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I was too quick to dismiss it being overfilled. It just seemed like way too much oil for too long to be a little overfilled. Now, it seems that's all the issue was. I pulled the fill bolt out (9 o'clock on the pumpkin) to see if that would give any indication of the oil level, and with the bike on the side stand a dribble of oil did start to flow out and then it stopped. Then I pulled the drain (6 o'clock on the pumpkin) I ended up with a total of just over 200 ml out! Referring back to the service manual, which @Dirk_S also posted a snippet of to this thread, the drain/fill volume is 160 ml, while the volume for assembly from dry is 180 ml. So it was over even the maximum figure. Checking the breather was also an appreciated suggestion, though I wasn't able to. On the V7 850 there's a rubber cap over it, which I was able to remove, but then the breather bolt itself isn't a straight shot down into the housing so I couldn't get a socket on it, and the wrenches I'm carrying nearly fit it, but the housing got in the way of being able to turn it. Because of that I wasn't able to remove it for inspection, and the more I looked at it the more I worried that if I did get it loose, would it be possible to drop it inside of the housing? I couldn't get a good look in there to see. The underside of the rubber cap on the breather looked fairly clean though so I'll hope it's not clogged.
Looking at the maintenance schedule table, the final drive oil's first replacement is recommended at 18.6k miles, I had just got the bike back from 12.4k mile service + new tires. So what I suspect may have happened was that while changing the rear tire, the mechanic got the idea to top off the final drive oil. I say top off because my visual read of the oil, and the swarf that was on the magnetic drain plug, don't match with this having been drained within the past thousand miles. I didn't test the physics of side stand vs upright for the fill hole level, but I suspect that if you were to use (misuse?) the fill hole as a fill-to-spill hole or weep hole, the pumpkin would hold more with the bike upright and how a shop would have likely had the bike while working on it. Especially since this bike had been losing a visually concerning amount of oil, and then still produced 200 ml of oil. If it were a weep hole, wouldn't that make it easy to get the measurement right? If the spec was for 160 ml and any more would dribble out the fill hole as a weep hole, then how would someone manage to overfill it? I'm convinced it's not a weep hole, but was used as one. Since having the last service + tires done, I've mostly ridden the bike locally and not very high speed, 65-70 mph for a short stretch between towns, which may be why I didn't notice the oil seepage until a couple hundred miles of highway riding. I really think this issue was caused by the most recent service + tire change, because it doesn't seem realistic that the pumpkin would have had 200 ml+ in it since the prior service just over 6,000 miles ago, between which I did the reverse of this leg of my trip having ridden the bike from IL to CO in April.
So for anyone coming across this thread in the future, know that it's possible to way overfill the final drive oil. 40 ml + overfill. I also think that a little gear oil may go a long way in terms of visual splatter on a rear wheel. I was really expecting to find the oil level half empty and a failed seal, instead it had sprayed the rear wheel for a few hundred miles and still had 200 ml to go.
Since draining and refilling with new oil, there's been a slight dribble out. I likely did not have it warmed up enough or the patience to hold the bike upright long enough to properly drain it, but now a couple hundred miles later into the trip the last gas stop I checked and it was just a slight damp spot around that pinhole on the bottom. Here's hoping that's the end of it.
My big takeaways are: as usual RTFM, this forum is one of the best sources of Guzzi info out there, just be sure it's applicable to your model and generation, and I really need to stop paying shops to make mistakes that I'm just as capable of making on my own. I was very hesitant to take the bike into the shop for the last service and oil change because I had it into that shop for the first service at 900 miles and they had scratched it up and botched some wiring installing the OEM USB accessory under the seat. I quickly got over the bike being scratched as I set off on a tour soon after that and the bike was no longer "new" to me. I caved and brought it back to them because I wasn't equipped to pull the rear wheel and change the tire. I'll have to correct that for next time I guess.
My trip continues, I skipped Harper's and should be in Chicago on Monday night one day off schedule. I'm making the best of it and spent some of today visiting a friend along the route since I already called off work tomorrow, and tomorrow I'll have another more leisurely day and revisit some of the Mark Twain sights near the Mississippi. I'll have to start another thread to document it, but this is the first leg of a coast to coast trip I'm taking. If all goes well, the plan is CO to IL, stay in IL for a bit, continue on to the coast in NC, stay there for a bit, then west to the OR coast, stay there a bit, then back to CO. I'm on the crew for a team in the Motorcycle Trans Am event so for NC to OR I'm on that route.
https://motorcycletransam.com/2025-route/
V7 850 e5 final drive breather rubber cap
(https://i.ibb.co/5hWb57dY/PXL-20250824-141815878.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5hWb57dY)
Breather bolt with rubber cap removed
(https://i.ibb.co/Fbz8677g/PXL-20250824-141839102.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Fbz8677g)
My wrench fit, but not enough to turn it enough to break loose
(https://i.ibb.co/cK4J2zzS/PXL-20250824-142102225.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cK4J2zzS)
Weeping out the fill hole
(https://i.ibb.co/mVbP16Mw/PXL-20250824-164905368.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mVbP16Mw)
The 200+ ml that came out, which is after it had already coated the rear wheel a few times over
(https://i.ibb.co/nqsMnPCp/PXL-20250824-170920120.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nqsMnPCp)
This morning's workshop, an O'Rielly's parking lot in walking distance of a hardware store and an AutoZone, which worked out great for finding all the supplies I needed.
(https://i.ibb.co/VYhz6ncK/PXL-20250824-173000587.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VYhz6ncK)
Part of a funnel I bought at one store, fitted to a hose I bought at another store. None of the flex funnels had a small enough tube to fit into the fill hole, so I came up with this (and am keeping it on the bike for now).
(https://i.ibb.co/cKvYCgkM/PXL-20250824-174905866.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cKvYCgkM)
A photo of my goose and the Atlas 9 giant in Kansas City. I often detour to roadside attractions such as muffler men for a photo, and found out about this new non-muffler man giant from the company that restores the muffler men, "American Giants". Atlas 9 is going to be some interactive art exhibit experience similar to Meow Wolf, but it isn't set to open until October.
(https://i.ibb.co/nNyWkyDk/PXL-20250824-203513101.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nNyWkyDk)
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I would get a centerstand. The breather comes out if you grind down a deep well socket on the outside to make it thin wall.
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I haven't had any experiance with the v7-850 yet. But now that I see it's a v85 rear end you still have too much oil in it. They started at 180. Then went to 160 and are now at 130 for the refills to stop the leaks. Personally I did 140 when I did my 25 V85 a month ago. If I was you I'd carefully pull the drain plug when ice cold in the am and let out 20 more assuming you did 160. A bit messy but I think you troubles will end.
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I'm sure most of you know but for those that may not......pertaining to that breather cap with the yellow paint on it. It's just a cap and not ment to be unscrewed the bolt part is down further and that's where the unscrewing is done.
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I installed a H&B center stand on the bike earlier this year but was disappointed to find that even with luggage off the bike, I can't get it onto the center stand without assistance so it hasn't been much use to me while on the road. I wonder if there's some technique to it that I'm missing, as I struggled to put a modern Gold Wing on the center stand before attempting it with right foot pointed slightly toward the rear wheel. I weigh about 135 lbs before gear, so don't have that to my advantage for leverage.
Good to know about 160 ml still possibly being too much! That explains the much less significant dribble I observed right after. Hopefully all this oil seepage hasn't caused any issue with the seal.
I now see what you mean with the breather cap comment. Looking at the parts fiche the black rubber insert is labeled as a cap and the part below it with the marking paint is labeled as the breather plug, below it is a gasket. Interesting that the breather plug would have a second cap, but I see see the larger bolt head below it that would be used to remove it. While I'm in Illinois this week I'll pick up a deep well socket and grind it down to examine that and keep in the bike's kit. I appreciate the tips! Have learned a lot already.
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I recently changed the final drive oil in my V7 850 with 160 ml (cc) and after 700 miles I haven't had any leaking.
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I wouldn't mess with the vent now that the issue is almost gone. Just enjoy the trip. Next tire change will be fine. FYI, there have been no issues since they hid them unlike early V7 units.
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A further mention about the breather and that is it's a two way breather it closes when internal pressure is normal and keeps water and dirt out and opens to relieve internal pressure so there is a possibility that it could malfunction and create above normal internal pressure that may or may not lead to a problems. If you do ever remove it to check if it's operational you can blow into the non painted end and it should open up while sucking it should plug up.
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Documenting this here in case it's useful to anyone else who encounters this issue in the future, but unfortunately this ended up not being a simple matter of too much oil in the bevel box. After having the seals inspected in Portland, Oregon with no issues observed, and then having the input shaft seal replaced (though it appeared fine) in Fort Collins, I just picked up the bike back from having the final drive replaced entirely and am hoping for some trouble free miles on my Moto Guzzi now.
The input shaft seal still looks good with no visible damage to it. This was my first shaft drive motorcycle so I'm no expert here, but my theory based on observation is that the pinion gear making too much contact on the tip. How do you adjust the depth of the pinion into the ring? I see a washer that may act like a shim there. Funny enough, the workshop manual I have (PDF) for my bike is in English, but switches to Italian when providing the instructions for checking the backlash here! In English though it does state
"SINCE THE BEVEL GEAR IS A SAFETY COMPONENT, IT IS STRICTLY FORBIDDEN TO PER-
FORM ANY PINION/SPROCKET CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENTS FOR THE ENTIRE DURATION OF
THE COMPONENT'S SERVICE LIFE. IF THE CLEARANCE IS NOT WITHIN THE REQUIRED TOL-
ERANCE, THE ENTIRE BOX WILL HAVE TO BE REPLACED."
I think this was out of adjustment on my bike. If it wasn't out of whack since new, then it may have been caused at one of the two rear tire changes when the rear wheel and bevel box would have come off. I think that issue of improper contact from pinion to ring gear chewed up the teeth, and that either the poor contact or heat may have over pressurized the pumpkin and caused oil to pass by the input shaft seal. Does that sound plausible?
It's a mystery to me, and hopefully fixed now since the whole unit has been replaced, so trying to diagnose it is just to satisfy curiosity. I don't know that anything I could have done would have prevented this, but am very curious of others' thoughts.
(https://i.ibb.co/m5V9c8WD/PXL-20251211-233333101.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m5V9c8WD) (https://i.ibb.co/zWqh7J5W/PXL-20251211-233441105.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zWqh7J5W) (https://i.ibb.co/jZG3DvmC/PXL-20251211-233610323.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jZG3DvmC) (https://i.ibb.co/cppbVnr/PXL-20251212-004411660.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cppbVnr) (https://i.ibb.co/Z6GqV393/PXL-20251212-004426181.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Z6GqV393) (https://i.ibb.co/99WFr4y0/PXL-20251212-004436264.jpg) (https://ibb.co/99WFr4y0) (https://i.ibb.co/Zz5wWV2Q/PXL-20251211-233558270.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Zz5wWV2Q)
"COMPLETE TRANSMISSION BOX" was $789.98 and they reduced the labor to a half hour since this was a return issue from them having replaced the input shaft seal in October, the damage with tax came out to $935.32
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Dang, sorry for your troubles
Re using the center stand, it’s more momentum rearward than lifting upwards by strength. Try that
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"... While I'm in Illinois this week I'll pick up a deep well socket and grind it down to examine that and keep in the bike's kit. I appreciate the tips! Have learned a lot already."
Before you buy a new socket and grind on it, ask about a thin wall socket that size. The cost difference is probably small.
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"... While I'm in Illinois this week I'll pick up a deep well socket and grind it down to examine that and keep in the bike's kit. I appreciate the tips! Have learned a lot already."
Before you buy a new socket and grind on it, ask about a thin wall socket that size. The cost difference is probably small.
Looking at the photos, I don’t even see how a thin-walled socket can fit onto the breather cap while the wheel is still installed. Looks like the hub’s lip interferes too much.
Has anyone removed a final drive breather bolt on a V7 E5, V9, or V85TT with the wheel still attached?
(https://i.ibb.co/kgHqCK3H/IMG-9313.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kgHqCK3H)
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Looking at the photos, I don’t even see how a thin-walled socket can fit onto the breather cap while the wheel is still installed. Looks like the hub’s lip interferes too much.
Has anyone removed a final drive breather bolt on a V7 E5, V9, or V85TT with the wheel still attached?
(https://i.ibb.co/kgHqCK3H/IMG-9313.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kgHqCK3H)
That is what I concluded when I tried a 16mm(?) narrow wall socket. It did not fit with the wheel installed. With the wheel off unless you put an open ended wrench on it and struggle with that, a narrow wall socket would still be required to fit as you can see from the small gap of clearance in this photo of the removed failed final drive unit.
(https://i.ibb.co/xqx68CQV/PXL-20251212-192102013.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xqx68CQV)
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Photo pointing more specifically to the clearance I'm referring to where a thin wall socket is required.
(https://i.ibb.co/DDPyJnLb/PXL-20251212-192102013.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DDPyJnLb)
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Re Center stand: After acquiring my '21 V7 Special some months back I ordered the Moto Guzzi centerstand and installed it. The bike is the EASIEST of all motorcycles I've owned to put on the centerstand. Obviously the MG stand must be designed a bit differently than some other stands but it really works great!!!
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Photo pointing more specifically to the clearance I'm referring to where a thin wall socket is required.
(https://i.ibb.co/DDPyJnLb/PXL-20251212-192102013.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DDPyJnLb)
The pre-E5 V9 models, while using that newer final drive casting (or extremely similar), still used the older style dog plate, which apparently is smaller, because I could easily place an open-end spanner on the breather cap.
Guzzi just keeps making it harder to work on our own bikes.
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Sounds like MG want folks to have all work done by a dealer...but there are hardly any to be found! ;)
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Unfortunately, the saga continues. At less than 250 miles on the new replacement final drive, it started leaking oil from the other side. Dropped it off at Aces Motorcycles in Frederick, Colorado today and though the 30 day warranty is up on the final drive they replaced in December 2025, I'm hoping they'll have some compassion. 🤞
(https://i.ibb.co/DP0q4Qck/PXL-20260329-224351399.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DP0q4Qck)
Good news for their new location in Frederick is they do still sell and service Moto Guzzis. Plenty of new Aprilias on the floor, the modern Guzzis were mostly used/trade-ins, but they said they're placing new orders for customers on demand and have one in for a V7 Sport right now.
(https://i.ibb.co/KzK9BG0s/PXL-20260331-173839552.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KzK9BG0s)
(https://i.ibb.co/PGhf196x/PXL-20260331-174113397.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PGhf196x)
(https://i.ibb.co/TMXrKGQc/PXL-20260331-174201137.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TMXrKGQc)
(https://i.ibb.co/xtCHnHc9/PXL-20260331-174224577.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xtCHnHc9)
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They got around to looking at the Goose today and called to let me know it was ready to be picked up. I was expecting the issue to be the oil seal that's visible when viewing the cush drive plate with rear wheel removed, but they diagnosed it as being a "bad" rear fill washer and replaced that washer. So far so good, made it ~30 miles back home on the bike today and not a drop of oil out the "rear transmission". No charge, which was appreciated since they installed and filled that final drive unit. With the shop's new location being further from me than when it was in Fort Collins, I did spend $81 on a ride share to get home after dropping the bike off earlier this week. For picking it up today I managed to get a free ride from a family member.
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Concerning center stand issues. I carry a piece of 5 quarter X 5 inch deck wood . It’s a scrap from an earlier job . I roll the rear wheel onto the wood , stand on the side stand lever & the bike leaps up onto the stand . A few practice try’s help & the wood takes little space in saddle bag !
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Oops I almost forgot, A H-B lifting handle also needed . It fits a V7/850 with a bit of trimming ! V7 II without altering it . On the 850 it fouls the rear shock spring .
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Thanks for the tip on the small sheet of wood, that makes sense as a way to get it closer to being a "ride-off" center stand in terms of ease of use. Will give it a try. For the lifting handle, do you just mean a rear rack grab handle? I do have one of those on the H&B rear rack I have on the bike for luggage.
The bike is back at the shop again this morning and they're pulling the wheel now as it continued to leak oil after I picked it up last week. I suspect it's the seal that faces the wheel. They're going to try to track it down and warranty the new final drive unit through Moto Guzzi if necessary.
(https://i.ibb.co/5x6Y2K9H/PXL-20260405-183437034.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5x6Y2K9H)
(https://i.ibb.co/Q3s9wyGV/PXL-20260407-151802804.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Q3s9wyGV)
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Regarding the center stand- I have a V7ii, so might be a bit different. The lifting handle mentioned by mechanicsavant does help, but it's kinda low. Also, I'm assuming you know to stand and put your weight on the aft part of the center stand to counterbalance as you lift?
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I think I found the lift handle you're talking about, but not sure if it would fit the V7 850, or with my luggage setup.
https://www.motomachines.com/hepco-becker-center-stand-lift-handle-moto-guzzi-v9-bobber-roamer
I do have the rear rack to lift from, and yes, full weight on the right foot that's on the center stand. The majority of my motorcycles have center stands and I tend to use them regularly, especially to level the bike when fueling up or accessing luggage. Whenever I get the bike back again I'll try parking on a shim. I suspect it's an issue of weight as others that have tried could get it up onto the stand, though it didn't look particularly easy for them.
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I think I found the lift handle you're talking about, but not sure if it would fit the V7 850, or with my luggage setup.
https://www.motomachines.com/hepco-becker-center-stand-lift-handle-moto-guzzi-v9-bobber-roamer
I do have the rear rack to lift from, and yes, full weight on the right foot that's on the center stand. The majority of my motorcycles have center stands and I tend to use them regularly, especially to level the bike when fueling up or accessing luggage. Whenever I get the bike back again I'll try parking on a shim. I suspect it's an issue of weight as others that have tried could get it up onto the stand, though it didn't look particularly easy for them.
Double check on your installation torques, one bolt out of spec can cause a bit of a bind, your center stand would be much harder to engage. Kneel down beside and you should be able to freely move the 2 feet down with one hand.
Good Luck with the rear drive leak, just waiting on the last bearing for mine.
Stephen
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Thanks for the tip on the small sheet of wood, that makes sense as a way to get it closer to being a "ride-off" center stand in terms of ease of use. Will give it a try. For the lifting handle, do you just mean a rear rack grab handle? I do have one of those on the H&B rear rack I have on the bike for luggage.
The bike is back at the shop again this morning and they're pulling the wheel now as it continued to leak oil after I picked it up last week. I suspect it's the seal that faces the wheel. They're going to try to track it down and warranty the new final drive unit through Moto Guzzi if necessary.
(https://i.ibb.co/5x6Y2K9H/PXL-20260405-183437034.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5x6Y2K9H)
(https://i.ibb.co/Q3s9wyGV/PXL-20260407-151802804.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Q3s9wyGV)
Rear tire ratio, shock length and rear preload can help as well. When I had the longer rear shocks on the stornello I could literally roll it backwards onto the center stand. The Norge and 1200 Sport can be very difficult to get on the CS unless the preload is dialed up. The V7 is much lighter and easier, but rolling the rear tire on a 2x6 (or even a 1x6) makes all very easy for me. It's amazing how much difference even 1" makes.
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The center stand definitely rotates freely. On my coast to coast loop last year the outer spring on the center stand broke (despite not using it) and only having the inner spring connected caused it to bounce until I tied it up. Replaced the spring after the trip.
2Nr/Stephen, thanks. Hope yours is sorted out soon as well.
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When I had talked to the service department manager on the phone after last dropping it off, I was told that shaft drive bikes leak oil out the breather... even Honda Gold Wings. Funny how I have friends with 200k and 300k on those birds without having ever encountered that! Same for FJRs. Didn't appreciate that B.S.ing. I do understand a breather has a sort of check valve and under healthy conditions some oil mist will make it out, with the appearance of slight dampness or sootiness around the breather, but not oil dribbling onto the wheel of the bike, and especially not from a blind fill system where there's no way to check the level after it has lost oil.
Got the call this morning that the bike was ready to be picked up and hitched a Lyft out to Frederick to pick it up. A different mechanic worked on it this time and I was able to talk to him. He was afraid to tear into the final drive and have the bike out of commission waiting on parts, so what he did was drained and inspected the final drive, replaced the fill and drain crush washers (these were dry when I dropped it off, so shouldn't be the culprit), and said he tightened the breather and all accessible bolts with wheel removed, filled the final drive with oil and added yellow dye so if it leaks there'll be a trace. He did a test ride and checked for leaks, 8 miles per my odometer recording. He suspected the final drive was overfilled (their shop was where it was last drained and filled...) but couldn't identify a cause for the oil leak. Not what I was hoping to hear... I rode it home and found the drain plug (bottom) was wet with a drop of oil when I got home, wiped it off and snugged it maybe 1/16 turn. Did a short ride up my local canyon and back to see if it would stay dry, and it did. I'm hoping that's the end of it... if not I guess they'll chase the yellow dye.
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Dr. Enzo Toma, where is the next closest dealer? I would not want to return to Aces, for anything.
The shaft drove bones leak oil out the breather is where I lost ALL faith in that dealers service department. Total nonsense comment from a position of ignorance. Topped off by a slightly loose drain bolt on your last ride home.
I’m no ‘distance rider’ but I do have over 500k miles on chattier motorcycles. Never a leak, a weep or a mist, ever.
Hopefully you can learn to pull the wheels to bring them in for tire replacement only.
I may be slow, but I’ve never let myself down with sloppy routine maintenance. Then again, I’ve never owned a small block Moto Guzzi. I’m on my 11th big block Guzzi though.
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I had considered bringing it to Erico in Denver when I first returned from the coast-to-coast trip. Decided on Aces for a few reasons, the primary one being that they were in Fort Collins at the time which was only 11 miles from me. Erico in Denver would have been much more expensive and time consuming to get to/from without the bike after dropping it off or to pick it up. As mentioned in another thread, I had called Erico to feel them out for looking at the final drive leak. Though I bought the bike from them, they were not happy (practically argumentative) that it had been serviced entirely at other Moto Guzzi shops as they couldn't find any record of its service in their system. When I asked if they were experienced with working on the final drives the response was to the effect that they don't do much of that and I'd be waiting a long time for parts.
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=124364.msg1914151#msg1914151
I wouldn't bring anything else to Aces, but at this point they are on the line for warrantying the work they've already done. The bike itself is a 2022, out of warranty. I paid out of pocket for the new final drive, and though they might not like to see me return there each time... the follow ups since the final drive replacement have been covered by them. Next time the bike needs service beyond oil change, filters, or valve adjustment... I'll try to plan to coincide with staying near a dealership out of state as I didn't have such a poor experience when the bike's been serviced in other states while traveling (San Diego, Portland).
At this point, I'm hoping the leak is gone, or if it returns the dye helps them trace it and they warranty the unit instead of boogering it up more and having me go back and forth again.
Once the final drive leak is behind me, will not be returning to them for additional service.
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Has anyone had an isolated incident where they knew the final drive was overfilled and could tell me where that excess comes out? It would help my understanding and diagnosis of this and future issues to know that. If it blows past the seals and comes out the hole in the swingarm as mine did when it was overfilled to 200ml (but unknown to me the gears were also chewing up from poor engagement, so that wasn't an isolated issue of overfilling), does it come out the breather, or can it do either or both? Thanks in advance for insight into that from the Guzzi experts.
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The rear drive gets chew themselves up, and that there’s no ‘adjustment’ surprised me. It’s like Piaggio installed an incompatible drive unit on your bike at the factory.
Plus, how can the designers be confused on how much oil the drive unit should take at a scheduled rear drive oil change. From reading this thread, it seems they changed the refill quantity twice.
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FWIW, the new v7-850 now states a max of 130CC. How much did he put in it? If you don't know drain it into a clean measuring cup and then re-install it with 120CC. Use sealing tape on the threads.
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Hopefully they’ll also eliminate the ‘level’ hole to prevent people from doing this procedure how they’ve done it for decades.
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I agree and found it disappointing that the service manual states the final drive is not servicable in that way, with a reason given of it being for safety. I did find that it isn't uncommon for modern shaft drive bikes though, the ring and pinion shimmed as a factory matched set without field adjustment. Seems my original unit was just not shimmed right or settled differently over time, and was outside the factory warranty before it became apparent.
The fill hole being over 200ml high, resulting in it having been overfilled by a shop before my long tour and final drive replacement, seems like a big design mistake on Moto Guzzi. I think anyone could make the assumption that it's a fill level plug and to put oil in until it reaches the threads, unless they've been trained otherwise or read the manual. Them having revised the spec just highlights how flawed it is that the hole is not at the level height.
Is there any documentation for the latest revision of the refill spec? Last year when I had the bike serviced in Portland I brought it up, they pulled up the service manual on a computer and it was the same value I had, 160ml after emptying to total 180ml with 20ml residual. If that's been revised, it would be useful to me to be able to reference it.
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Doc, several years ago my V7 first series final drive leaked fluid on my rear rim. None of the wishful thinking solutions worked. I'm in Lakewood, just west of Denver. I drained the damn thing, removed it, packaged it carefully and sent it to Jim Hamlin in CT, who had done the services on the bike while it was in the hands of its previous owner, bless both their hearts. It came back maybe three weeks later. That was 30,000 miles ago. I have changed the fluid two or three times. Not a drop has appeared where it shouldn't. I believe I use 160cc as rec'd by Vagrant, whose advice I trust. I don't believe any wand-waving will repair a small-block final drive leak. Jim Hamlin at Hamlin Cycles will. He did in my case certainly. Good luck with your bike!
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(https://i.ibb.co/spBy3Fm5/thumbnail-7.jpg) (https://ibb.co/spBy3Fm5)
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Hah, was not expecting them to update the fill bolt and spell it out!
Thanks for sharing that photo.
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I am going to see if I can get the shop to order that updated drain plug with the "max 130cc" etched into it to hopefully avoid future dealership service misery. They are already ordering the rubber dust cover that goes over the breather, as they lost that while the bike was in their care.
I was able to get a hold of a PDF (but not a workshop manual) for the 2026 non-sport model, thinking it may have the same final drive but due to other changes would be a more recent (and thus, updated) document. The file provided from Moto Guzzi was named "GUZZI_GUZZI V7 STONE BLACK RUVIDO US MY26_USA.PDF" and yes, it does have the updated spec!
(https://i.ibb.co/Xkfw85pk/Screenshot-2026-04-13-151604.png) (https://ibb.co/Xkfw85pk)
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Hopefully they’ll also eliminate the ‘level’ hole to prevent people from doing this procedure how they’ve done it for decades.
If they're doing a re-design, put the hole where everyone else does. Put it where more than the proper amount, drains out. Engineers/designers have been doing it for eons.
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Called their parts department this morning. They weren't (yet) aware of the request to order the breather cap... had them order that, some crush washers, and "2B012828" which should be the fill plug that reads "MAX 130 cc". There seems to be an earlier variation, 2B0105001, which reads "MAX 160 cc". Parts desk said they'd have the service dept. check if there's any updated TSB since the 160cc revision as well.
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If they're doing a re-design, put the hole where everyone else does. Put it where more than the proper amount, drains out. Engineers/designers have been doing it for eons.
All too often the important details are lost on the Guzzi engineers and designers. Sad really.
Then again, having to remove the rear wheel to change oil in the differential is also one of the stupidest designs they continue to do.