Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: rrojaswahl on August 31, 2025, 07:42:06 PM
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Friends - after ~ 100 K miles now the electrical issues are starting to get worse on my 2014 California 1400 Touring:
Red triangle comes on, big SERVICE letters appear, and while the bike still runs for ~ 60 miles or so, eventually the ABS and traction control lights come on and then I allegedly drive 247 miles per hour, hence the whole display goes nuts, and then the bike dies.
It's not mechanical - it's electrical. When I diagnose the errors stored the ECU I get the following codes & descriptions (translated from German):
P0610 - brake light relais too low
P0700 - A-PRC function error: no signal - what does this mean, what is the PRC function?
both have appeared on two occasions by now.
then also recently the following two codes appeared alongside those above:
P0560 - Battery voltage : too low (even though I had just recharged the battery btw...)
P0701 - no signal - again: what does this mean?
Is this an alternator issues, hence the battery not charging? Or are there other underlying issues that I don't know about?
Is a new alternator the only remedy here, or has anybody had a similar issue and fixed it differently?
Many thanks & cheers,
Roy
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I haven't had my 1400 for about 4 years. First thing check the voltage first thing while it is running, This can be done using a function on the dash as you probably know. I would replace the battery, they are cheap, at least in the US. If you don't have one I would get the Service Station manual. There is a complete list of error codes in it. There is a guy who sells them on eBay. He goes by "meandmylittleman201 5. I have purchased several manuals from him. You can also get a digital version online from Cadre Cycle. Good luck.
kk
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Check your PMs
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Sorry - what are PM's? What do you mean by that?
Txs
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Sorry - what are PM's? What do you mean by that?
Txs
PM=Personal Message
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I sent you Pete Roper's email address by personal message. He knows what is wrong and will walk you through it. Just click on "my messages" above, copy and paste the address in your email browser, and send the message to Pete.
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Oh man, doesn’t Pete post here any longer?
The man’s an absolute legend, in the very good way for the Moto Guzzi community. Years ago I bought one of his sump devices to help prevent the oil pump from starving for oil.
Plus he’s as funny as the day is long.
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Many have left Mark, Beetle's gone too. I won't get into who insults who. None of my business.
Pete is easy enough to find, Griso Ghetto
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First look at voltage with running engine, clean battery terminals.
Aprc is Aprillia traction control, or the Guzzi variant,
But the combination of errors points to missing voltage. Or connections or the generator or is regulation device buit in the generator as a replacable unit.
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+1 Paul, there was an update to cut a wire to Alt that will fry it if key is left on. AND the wire was still coming hooked up even in 16. The wire was to go to a GEN light but bike doesn't have one. Do a search and you'll find it.
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First look at voltage with running engine, clean battery terminals.
Aprc is Aprillia traction control, or the Guzzi variant,
But the combination of errors points to missing voltage. Or connections or the generator or is regulation device buit in the generator as a replacable unit.
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2014_California.gif
The Voltage regulator is internal to the Alternator, I have no idea if its a replaceable item, All I can suggest is to read the battery Voltage, should be 13+ at upper revs.
Im pretty certain the green wire to the Alternator should be alive with the motor running (Power thru Fuse 1) Do the horns work? they share the same fuse
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The alt can be rebuilt & the regulator can be replaced, friend in IL just had this done for $100 bearings and all.
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Friends - txs for all the help and comments and ideas!
To answer the questions posed below:
1) When the defect happens and fuse 1 bursts, both horn and front-light go out. Daylight running- & rear-lights stay on. New (!) battery reads ~ 11.4 V after a ~ 50 mile ride with warning light on, so not close to 14 V and hence not charging during the ride. When I rev the engine, voltage of battery does not increase - again evidence it's not charging. But why not?
btw : Alternator rebuilt and regulator replaced for 100 dollars? Where?? Or do you mean 1000 dollars?
Many thanks again,
Roy
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You can get a used one on ebay or take it to a rebuild shop. My buddy took his to a shop in Geneva, IL that's been around forever, they put in new bearings also. I would check everything on that fuse circuit for a pinched wire or bad connector.
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Clean all the ground wires too.
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You can get a used one on ebay or take it to a rebuild shop. My buddy took his to a shop in Geneva, IL that's been around forever, they put in new bearings also. I would check everything on that fuse circuit for a pinched wire or bad connector.
Sorry, which circuit are you referring to?
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2014_California.gif
Update
Never mind I see it in the OP's last post. Fuse 1 feeding the headlight amongst other things
Does the headlight come On in daylight on this model?
The alternator doesn't seem to be putting out the correct Voltage, you could pull it off for testing by an auto electrician with a rig for testing alternators?
Have you checked the belt tension?
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Roy, might be broken belt in 100Kmi, if it has not been checked.
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There[s another post here talking about the alternator.
A couple of monkeys wrenching on a 1400
painfull to watch.
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=123946.0
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I sent you Pete Roper's email address by personal message. He knows what is wrong and will walk you through it. Just click on "my messages" above, copy and paste the address in your email browser, and send the message to Pete.
rrojaswahi,
Did you get in touch with Pete Roper regarding your bike not properly charging? If so, what were his suggestions? So far, we've seen suggestions of needing a new battery, to cut the upper wire going into the back of the alternator and to ensure the battery along with other connections are clean and tight, also to ensure the belt is intact and working. Have you had a chance to perform these checks yet?
If you already removed the alternator, I'd certainly bring it to a local auto electric/alternator repair shop to be tested.
Sadly, there are three YouTube videos from link provided. The guy is in Canada and looks to have a fun home shop. But, he dismantled a lot of the bike to remove and replace the alternator and it didn't fix anything.
Anyway, what's the status of your bike's charging system now?
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Before you even dream of replacing the alternator ( a daunting task the first time ) . They are a Chinese unit and have on the back of them
a removable regulator . The part number will probably still be on it , it is easily ordered from China. I'd be surprised if the belt had failed . Good Luck :thumb:
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Moto Guzzi: hand built in Italy by those with an aversion to grease with low bid parts from China.
Also, remove and check the 30a and the 40a fuse on or near the battery + terminal. Apparently Guzzi used more low bid fuses with a pension for corroding. If the fuse terminals tarnish enough, the fuses can melt. There’s a lot of this type of information online.
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Dear All:
Many thanks again, and here an update:
I did not yet remove the alternator or check the belt - I know the latter an obvious thing to do, but that's a daunting task (service manual and a German online video (from "moto schrauber") basically say: remove tank, exhaust pipes (!) and engine itself from the frame (!!!), etc. etc. etc...). To me this is a multiple-day job done best during cold wintertime inside a warm garage, not for during the best time of the riding season with the last few warm sunny days left here the Northeast (albeit I am now limited to battery power and therefore range, but for now I have to live with that...). Even the dealer says he would only do this as a last resort...
Btw: The fuses and fuse boxes are fine and not visibly corroded or molten; battery connections are good and tight (I now recharge battery after each trip, and a carry second one in reserve always with me just in case); I had the brake relay replaced (to no avail); one cable to the rear light was frayed and I removed it (also to no avail). Upon revving engine, multimeter does not show increasing voltage at the battery - hence it's still not charging...
My current plan is to a) contact Pete Roper (will share his recommendations with his permission here in due course), and b) get an endoscopic camera to try to look "inside" for better visual diagnosis around the alternator before I engage on a bold mission to take half the bike apart...
Many thanks again & keep you posted,
Roy