Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: LibrarianFuture on December 27, 2025, 05:53:21 AM
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Hi all, thanks in advance for any help.
On Christmas Day, my oil pressure warning light began to flash. I had no choice to ride 100 miles home with it on. For what it’s worth, it ran faultlessly for the duration.
I’ve already dropped the oil, thankfully nothing alarming to report. I can’t see any gasket leaks or whatnot.
I’m just looking for insight from mechanically minded individuals - could anyone offer me a checklist of what they’d investigate first before sending it off to a shop for repair? Preferably in order of cheapest to expensive 😂.
Much appreciated. Merry Christmas!
Richard
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I’m currently at a loss for words. My understanding of the oil pressure light is that once it comes on, if you don’t immediately stop and check if there’s enough oil in the bike, you’re definitely in trouble. The fact that you rode for another 100 miles and it ran “trouble free” without breaking down has my mouth on the floor.
Did you measure how much oil came out?
No significant amount of shavings, flakes, or glitter found in the oil or on the magnetic tip of the drain plug?
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Apologies - I did manage to check the oil level before having to continue. It measured absolutely fine. And by the time I got home, it hadn’t lost a drop.
I was equally as concerned to be honest, but Sod’s Law and a series of unfortunate circumstances meant I had to do what I did.
Not a precise measurement, but I’d say around 1.7 to 1.8
8L was emptied.
Honestly, absolutely nothing on the drain plug, and nothing noticeable in the oil. I was flabbergasted. I’ll flush it again once a new oil filter arrives.
This just tells me there’s something wrong elsewhere, but I just don’t know where… blocked filter? Are there any know problems with the sensors on this model?
I’m just grateful I’ve gotten home safely to be honest.
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If level was good, no evidence of problems in the oil and the bike ran well, could be as simple as a loose connection on the pressure sensor, or the sensor is going bad. Very common issue on the big block Guzzi's.
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That would be quite the relief if it were simply the sensor.
I wonder—for those who understand the pumps a little better than I—I forget where the pump sends oil. If it sends it up to the cylinder heads, you could pop off the valve covers and check that the rocker assembly is lubricated and there’s residual oil sitting. But something’s telling me—and I don’t have the manual in front of me to check right now—that the heads are lubricated by a blow-by system, and the pump is primarily for the cam. I could be correct or completely off.
Can someone verify, please?
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That would be quite the relief if it were simply the sensor.
I wonder—for those who understand the pumps a little better than I—I forget where the pump sends oil. If it sends it up to the cylinder heads, you could pop off the valve covers and check that the rocker assembly is lubricated and there’s residual oil sitting. But something’s telling me—and I don’t have the manual in front of me to check right now—that the heads are lubricated by a blow-by system, and the pump is primarily for the cam. I could be correct or completely off.
Can someone verify, please?
Indeed - I may be wishful thinking, but fingers crossed!
That’s great, much appreciated. I’ll check that next.
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I had this happen to my Audace the first day after I got it. It had the engine replaced due to a catastrophic failure at 500 miles prior to my purchase. It turned out that the sensor wasn't connected correctly. The flashing indicates that the sensor has failed or the ECU cannot communicate with the sensor. A solid light indicates a loss of oil pressure. Hope this helps and gives you a sense of relief, sounds like a minor issue in your situation.
kk
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Rode 100 miles home sure suggests a sensor issue as opposed to mechanical.
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Rode 100 miles home sure suggests a sensor issue as opposed to mechanical.
It's more than suggests.
It's the switch/pressure circuit.
Otherwise the motor would not have survived.
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I was being polite. :azn:
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That would be quite the relief if it were simply the sensor.
I wonder—for those who understand the pumps a little better than I—I forget where the pump sends oil. If it sends it up to the cylinder heads, you could pop off the valve covers and check that the rocker assembly is lubricated and there’s residual oil sitting. But something’s telling me—and I don’t have the manual in front of me to check right now—that the heads are lubricated by a blow-by system, and the pump is primarily for the cam. I could be correct or completely off.
Can someone verify, please?
no...the heads are pressure fed.
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There is oil at the valves - thanks for the response RE being pressure fed.
A little update. Again, whilst it runs acceptably, I’ve found a what I’d consider an unacceptable amount of water in the oil.
For context, given I can’t get parts for the time being, but have plenty of spare oil, I thought I’d spend an afternoon putting it through it. I know this is wasteful btw…
I’m surprised at this given the mileage / long trips I’ve done recently.
Photo of the dipstick after a number of wipes.
(https://i.ibb.co/TMJ47B0C/IMG-4957.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TMJ47B0C)
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Pressure switch failures are quite common. I have changed them several times on both large and small Guzzi. Never actually had an oil pressure issue. Changing the switch is a quick, cheap experiment. Did you wash this bike recently? Wash water can damage the pressure sensor.
How did you get water in the oil? Did you wash the bike recently (see above)? Do you often ride very short distances? Cold engines can cause internal condensation of humid air. The engine requires a periodic long, hard ride to generate heat and drive out the water as vapor. You can drain and replace the oil but the water will come back if your driving habits cause it. Take the long way home on your work commute. :-)
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
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Really appreciate the reply. I have ordered a replacement switch. However it won’t arrive until the second week of January. Thanks to the post above I’m fairly confident it’s a switch issue, but the Guzzi is my primary mode of transport atm and I’m a bit of a worrier at the best of times.
I have given it a thorough wash recently, so perhaps it is that? I ride it year round, and it now has around 74k miles on the clock, so I do tend to give a monthly deep clean. I’ve never noticed water in the oil though.
My riding is generally a mix of 12 miles each way Monday - Friday, with longer rides (by Welsh/British Standards) on Weekends.
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My riding is generally a mix of 12 miles each way Monday - Friday, with longer rides (by Welsh/British Standards) on Weekends.
it's not so much the distance but the amount of time engine running, when snarled up in the grid-locked South. When I occasionally commuted 10 or so miles across Edinburgh on my 955, it would take at least half an hour, to nearly double that! A 250-500cc bike is much more suited to that abuse, for a number of reasons. :wink:
Get yerself a cheapo smaller bike for the daily commute and save the bigger one for the weekends, if at all possible.
[Edit] Google:
33m (10.9 mi) via Ferry Rd./A902 - 33minutes, yeah right on a bike on a good day, not rush hour in a car.
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that oil is a liability for the engine....
Now I'll swear that it's getting like that because you are only doing 12 miles each way and that means that the oil is not getting hot enough to boil the condensation out of it in humid conditions.The end result is that it does not lubricate correctly and the first signs of that will probably be excessive cam and cam follower wear.I'd get the engine hotter before setting off each way but as there is no temp guage on these how long for is a bit of a mystery.Certainly 12 mile journeys and then long stops are not a good thing.
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To allow the oil to reach temperature quickly and provide maximum lube when cold, you'll want to use a really thin blend such as "MANNOL ELITE 5W-40 FULLY SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL A3/B4 JASO MA2". Other brands are available but this meets/surpasses the specification, at a semi-sensible price (about 20quid for 4l.). I usually use their 10w40 4-takt+ equivalent, when semi-synthetic will do the job.
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I will only add that emulsified oil in a Guzzi forms first in the valve covers and takes a LOT to be found in the oil pan.
It also takes lot of full temperature operation to rid the motor of it.
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I’m willing to bet that parts of the UK are quite…moist—this time of year. Perhaps similar to the Pacific Northwest. If you’re commuting regularly through wet or even just humid weather, and not getting the motor as hot as it can safely get for longer periods of time, I think you just need to expect to moisture ingress more often. I ride year round in coastal New England, and I’d be puking mocha milkshakes if I didn’t check my final drive and engine often. Cut your check time by half (half the miles in “normal” schedule maintenance)
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Years ago I had a Harley 883 Sportster. It was notorious for making milkshakes in the winter. It was all from condensation, I live in an area that outside of town is heavy with ice in the winter so I am never able to ride longer distances. I did my best to get it up to operating temperatures for a reasonable amount of time and changed the oil often. Air cooled Sportsters unlike the rest of the Harley lineup run pretty cool a lot of it is probably due to the remote oil reservoir.
kk
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Years ago I had a Harley 883 Sportster. It was notorious for making milkshakes in the winter. It was all from condensation, I live in an area that outside of town is heavy with ice in the winter so I am never able to ride longer distances. I did my best to get it up to operating temperatures for a reasonable amount of time and changed the oil often. Air cooled Sportsters unlike the rest of the Harley lineup run pretty cool a lot of it is probably due to the remote oil reservoir.
kk
I've dealt with a few myself. The carbureted air cooled Sportster was an anomaly. It was overcooled in anticipation of the upcoming hotter running EFI models.
And ironically I've had experience personally with two of them, one of which developed emulsified oil in the primary chain case/transmission.
It's easy on some with short trips in winter.
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Back to the days of only owning/affording a single bike and no car..
My daily commute was a similar small distance mainly on back roads. The Z200 was used all year round, come rain, snow or shine and frothy oil was a feature. I would've rarely changed the likely cheapest Comma car oriented 20w50 dinosaur fluid. Hmm, did the wet clutch ever slip on that bike? Don't recall that being an issue - perhaps due to the colossal 18bhp.
With the benefit of hindsight, the oil contamination probably didn't help the plain bearing camshaft that crapped out at around 16,000 miles. :violent1:
BTW, I assume that you'll change the filter. Given the level of contamination, I'd be tempted to drop the sump, for a good wipe down, along with the strainer.
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kev is spot on. Pull the heads.
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Air cooled Sportsters unlike the rest of the Harley lineup run pretty cool a lot of it is probably due to the remote oil reservoir.
You've jogged a memory cell somewhere: my missus' first F650GS was prone to emulsification at the oil reservoir tubing - not as a consequence/fault of the water cooling.
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kev is spot on. Pull the heads.
Sorry, Mr. Pedantic here again.
I'm sure you meant to say "valve covers" and not "heads" there, right?
That's all.
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My riding is generally a mix of 12 miles each way Monday - Friday, with longer rides (by Welsh/British Standards) on Weekends.
I’d guess if your Monday through Friday commute were doubled, combined with longer rides on the weekends, you wouldn’t have this water in the oil issue.
As has been posted, get the engine fully up to operating temperature. Depending on the weather, typically over 20 miles. Longer when it’s cold and/or wet.
With the drain plug and the oil filter removed, remove the valve covers to check for a mayonnaise/ chocolate milk shake residue that will need to be throughly cleaned away.
Then consider a 50cc scooter for your short daily work commute.
Emulsified oil does a very job of lubricating and preserving engine components.
I have no idea if the water contaminated oil took out your oil sender or if it may have gone dodgy anyway.
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The natural resolution this is obviously heading toward: If you drive TO work, turn around, and drive immediately back home = the motor will have had enough time to heat up appropriately and burn off the moisture = problem most likely solved.
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:bow: I love that logic Dirk !!!!!!!
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Regarding the frequent washing, you aren’t using a forced water nozzle are you? Hard spraying can disturb quite a few thing's, electrical and mechanical, like bearings and connectors ...my shop guy just wipes things down with a clean slightly oiled shop rag, which has the extra benefit of repelling water…just a dribble works for a rinse if you’re using soap and water..followed by a leaf blower to drive away residual moisture …good luck!
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Yes. Covers, not heads.
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I’ve used a garden hose exactly once in the last 20+ years to clean my motorcycles. There’s just no reason to IMHO. Either of these cleaners with a damp and a dry microfiber cloth work fantastic.
(https://i.ibb.co/XR7TFKm/IMG-1137.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XR7TFKm)
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You hose averse folks must ride in good weather only, with no country roads, salty winters, horse manure and other such niceties, to tarnish your bikes' finish. I guess if you only roll 'em on & off your flatbed trucks, then they'll keep pretty clean. :rolleyes:
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Well, no reason to make assumptions.
I don’t know about other ‘hose averse’ folks but, no, we ride rain or shine, hot or cold etc.
IMHO, if you’re intent on using a garden hose: any pressure higher than an open hose with the metal tip cut off is just asking for problems.
You may be surprised at how good dirt and bugs get washed off when riding through a strong rain storm. My Victory CCT at over 101k miles still looks fresh as a daisy. In fact, so does my Victory Hard-Ball at 54k miles. And, well, so does my Eldorado 1400 at just 2k miles.
Some of us just like to ride and we like a beautiful looking motorcycle.
That one time I did use a hose is because I was at a biker event in Indiana on a farm. It must have rained 3” that Saturday. I had so much mud jammed all over and under the bike the hose was the only option. Typically, my off road riding is limited to dirt or gravel roads. Not an open farmer’s field. Then a good ride in the rain and I’m only left washing off road grime.
With continued cleaning using the aerosol products I posted, subsequent cleanings get easier and easier.
No garage or trailer queens here anyway. But, it’s completely possible to have a Go Pony that’s also a Show Pony.
My process:
1. I ‘hose down’ a section with the spray and let it soak it a bit.
2. I dampen a fresh microfiber cloth with the spray and start wiping away the dirt, grime etc.
3. I take a completely dry fresh microfiber cloth and buff out the section I just cleaned
4. Typically by the time I’m 3/4 done, the second fresh dry microfiber cloth turns into the dampened one so I start with a new dry microfiber cloth to wipe and buff.
PS: the sprays work on every surface of the bike. Metal, paint, windshield, rubber etc. as an added benefit, they keep your wire looms and rubber connectors fresh.
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Gee, TNMark, those sprays you use sound fantastic. What brands do you recommend ?
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Scroll up, I posted a picture.
I spent decades using Simple Green or S100 type cleaners. Each and everyone strips the plasticizers from every surface of the bike they come in contact with.
The cleaning/polishing sprays condition the plastic and rubber parts with each application.
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Well, that's a comprehensive reply, TN Mark! :thumb:
I sit here surprised, gotta say. I can only assume that you go through a lot of expense/spray to keep 'em "shiny".
I reckon I'd be riding a rust bucket and/or even more penniless for fuel, if I went with that approach. I can only envisage stripping parts off regularly for a thorough clean.
My garage is full of partly used potions, lotions, waxes and other chemicals just to try to thwart the ravages of time. Come to think of it, that kinda treatment doesn't work on me either. :sad:
Meanwhile, one wonders how the oil issue is progressing..
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My local Honda dealer, Southern Honda Powersports sells the spray cans for about $8.00. One can does my big bike about 4 times. So, yes, effective, efficient and economical.
Most other Honda dealers charge double for a can.
Most cleaners dry out rubber, plastics and vinyls. This stuff preserves them.
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I sometimes run mine thru the carwash and I have cleaned them quite often with the garden hose.
A clean motorbike is a happy motorbike.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51798969653_f8b71385bc_b.jpg)
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If I rode year round in the UK I'd treat my bike(s) to the ACF 50 treatment.
I used that stuff for years on our snowplows when I lived in NY (almost 55 years) and it works a wonder, or treat as our UK friends say. No matter WHAT anyone does on a motorcycle ride9s), there is NOTHING to compare with the constant salt and salt spray provided by the NY DOT. Throw in a bit of magnesium chloride and theb some Calcium Chloride used on private parking lots and you can almost watch untreated metal rust.
I prefer the OBS product, which is the original Honda product before it was reformulated, or so they say, but either will do a fine job.
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@kingoffleece, thanks for reminding me that I have a whole bottle of ACF-50 sitting in my basement. Been avoiding it since reading some of the negative reviews about it, and instead continuing to stick with that Water Displacement Formula Attempt #40. I’m curious how long ACF-50 remains on a hot motor. The WD-40 quickly cooks off the cylinders and headers, but through two winters now, it’s been keeping the rest of the bike from rusting, including the BMW’s bare metal tank (provided I remember to spray it every few days).
Dirt and gravel can cling to WD-40, but should at least wash away; Fluid Film is similar but so thick that I don’t think it’s worth drenching the whole bike in it. Still, I think I read somewhere that it’s a little easier to wash FF away come spring than ACF-50.
All that’s to say, I rarely bother to use water on my bikes in winter, but I admit I probably don’t rack up the miles that some of you other winter riders do, and I’m not remotely trying to keep the bikes looking spotless.
It’s a bummer that folks here are putting someone down for wanting to commute on a Guzzi V7. A little porky, sure. There’s always “a better bike for the purpose.” But a V7 isn’t bad. Won’t be curb-hopping and threading the needle at speed too easily, but maybe the OP has more patience ;)
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I've read features in UK BIKE mags about the ACF 50 shops there. They mask off the brakes and a few other parts and coat the entire bike with a large spray wand.
Perhaps our UK members can pipe in, but the feature was detailed and had plenty of pics.
Like I said, on plow components there is nothing we ever found that was better. It is thick like Fluid Film, which I know some others think is superior.
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I've been using ACF-50 on my Street Twin and now on "the Shiny". Gave the Breva a quick squirt before storing at the back of the garage.
I give the discs a quick wipe of brake cleaner, just in case of over-spray.
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Now back to the original oil section—- if I can remember rite in the bmw airhead news letter to get the condensation out of the oil 12-14 highway miles is needed— much more on the oilhead…
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Hi all. Apologies for reviving my older post, it's just i've finally taken delivery of a new oil pressure sensor.
Whilst i'm sure it's not the issue, it was cheap enough to check off the list.
I've never replaced a pressure sensor before, and I can't really find any advice online. Does anyone have a general process they'd go through to replace it on a v7iii? For example, it does look kind of accessible, but I wondered if it was a tank off job.
Much appreciated everyone!
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I like lots of room & a good view so I take tank off & some smallblocks I take out the front of airbox. Haven't done a late one.
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Well, no reason to make assumptions.
I don’t know about other ‘hose averse’ folks but, no, we ride rain or shine, hot or cold etc.
IMHO, if you’re intent on using a garden hose: any pressure higher than an open hose with the metal tip cut off is just asking for problems.
You may be surprised at how good dirt and bugs get washed off when riding through a strong rain storm. My Victory CCT at over 101k miles still looks fresh as a daisy. In fact, so does my Victory Hard-Ball at 54k miles. And, well, so does my Eldorado 1400 at just 2k miles.
Some of us just like to ride and we like a beautiful looking motorcycle.
That one time I did use a hose is because I was at a biker event in Indiana on a farm. It must have rained 3” that Saturday. I had so much mud jammed all over and under the bike the hose was the only option. Typically, my off road riding is limited to dirt or gravel roads. Not an open farmer’s field. Then a good ride in the rain and I’m only left washing off road grime.
With continued cleaning using the aerosol products I posted, subsequent cleanings get easier and easier.
No garage or trailer queens here anyway. But, it’s completely possible to have a Go Pony that’s also a Show Pony.
My process:
1. I ‘hose down’ a section with the spray and let it soak it a bit.
2. I dampen a fresh microfiber cloth with the spray and start wiping away the dirt, grime etc.
3. I take a completely dry fresh microfiber cloth and buff out the section I just cleaned
4. Typically by the time I’m 3/4 done, the second fresh dry microfiber cloth turns into the dampened one so I start with a new dry microfiber cloth to wipe and buff.
PS: the sprays work on every surface of the bike. Metal, paint, windshield, rubber etc. as an added benefit, they keep your wire looms and rubber connectors fresh.
I feel like a heathen............ .. I keep my seat, fenders, tank and gauges/screen clean, but never touch the rest of my bikes unless I am changing tires or other mechanical issue. I'll give the whole wheel/fork/brake/swingarm assemblies a full cleaning when I do the tires, and usually swap out the brake pads and fluid every 2nd set of tires just because. They are cheap, and keep everything moving well. I also will disconnect, treat and replug every electrical connector I can get to and go over the bike.
Back in the day when I only had 2 bikes, I would do a full tear down/clean/polish and reassemble 1X a year. Not ideal, and with 6 bikes on the road ends up being every 3-4 years, but it is what it is.
FWIW, when cleaning up into the engine/TB/Carb areas, or frame, I will just lightly spray with Ballistol then wipe with microfiber towel, once to get most of the wet and grime, then follow with a clean dry one.
As for Combustion Mayo, it's common in any cold/cool/humid area. Some make lots, some little, but the answer is ALWAYS to get the motor oil and engine hot enough to burn nit all out. Same principle for exhaust system condensation. Burn that out!
Back on Topic, Did the OP ever report back on the findings?
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Hi all. Apologies for reviving my older post, it's just i've finally taken delivery of a new oil pressure sensor.
Whilst i'm sure it's not the issue, it was cheap enough to check off the list.
I've never replaced a pressure sensor before, and I can't really find any advice online. Does anyone have a general process they'd go through to replace it on a v7iii? For example, it does look kind of accessible, but I wondered if it was a tank off job.
Much appreciated everyone!
Pull the tank, should be easy to find, it is in the valley. Can't remember the small block off the top of my head, but on the Big Block CARC bikes it is closer to the left jug and a bit forward of center. Make sure the connection is solid and you treat it. I like to use deoxit it. I use the little nail polish bottle and brush and coat both. connector and tang. Some will use vaseline or the much hated dielectric gel. Main goal is to prevent corrosion on the connector.
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I sometimes run mine thru the carwash and I have cleaned them quite often with the garden hose.
A clean motorbike is a happy motorbike.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51798969653_f8b71385bc_b.jpg)
Put me on the waiting list for that Red Eldo............. :evil:
I am waiting for at least 3 people to get tired of theirs. lol
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Regarding the frequent washing, you aren’t using a forced water nozzle are you? Hard spraying can disturb quite a few thing's, electrical and mechanical, like bearings and connectors ...my shop guy just wipes things down with a clean slightly oiled shop rag, which has the extra benefit of repelling water…just a dribble works for a rinse if you’re using soap and water..followed by a leaf blower to drive away residual moisture …good luck!
…I do have to admit that yes, my general regime is snowfoam via pressure washer, and then a rinse on its most gentle setting.
I can absolutely understand now that this is a bad idea… but if you ride year round in the Welsh hills, I cannot begin to tell you how much crud can build up on your bike. It gets to places which a sponge and brush just will not reach.
I totally understand it’s the wrong bike to ride year round btw. It’s just my circumstances have ended up that way. When I can, I’ll buy a proper run around.
The new oil pressure sensor has arrived today. Fingers crossed that’s the issue!
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Pull the tank, should be easy to find, it is in the valley. Can't remember the small block off the top of my head, but on the Big Block CARC bikes it is closer to the left jug and a bit forward of center. Make sure the connection is solid and you treat it. I like to use deoxit it. I use the little nail polish bottle and brush and coat both. connector and tang. Some will use vaseline or the much hated dielectric gel. Main goal is to prevent corrosion on the connector.
Much appreciated Bulldog, thankyou. I do only have some Vaseline available so I’ll use that.
The sensor is centre - rear on this one. I’ve
(https://i.ibb.co/7xWJKjRB/IMG-5016.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7xWJKjRB)
attached a diagram for it.
Don’t suppose you know of any other gotchas whilst doing something like this? It looks fairly straightforward which makes me think I’m missing something :grin:
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I totally understand it’s the wrong bike to ride year round btw…
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“Bollocks!” the lone voice shouted from the back row of the balcony.
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Don’t suppose you know of any other gotchas whilst doing something like this? It looks fairly straightforward which makes me think I’m missing something :grin:
Prepare yourself for a good 10 minutes of straight cussing over the fuel “quick disconnect” when trying to remove the tank. Hopefully you’ve done a similar one in the past and know how much a pain in the patootie it can be if you don’t have the technique down just right. You can do a Google / YouTube search for the procedure.
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“Bollocks!” the lone voice shouted from the back row of the balcony.
😂 I do have to agree with you to honest! I’ve not half put this v7 through some grief during my ownership, and I’m delighted with how it’s managed the last 70k with an idiot like me on it.
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Prepare yourself for a good 10 minutes of straight cussing over the fuel “quick disconnect” when trying to remove the tank. Hopefully you’ve done a similar one in the past and know how much a pain in the patootie it can be if you don’t have the technique down just right. You can do a Google / YouTube search for the procedure.
… I cannot find a video on my end. I’m guessing it’ll be a lovely surprise?
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… I cannot find a video on my end. I’m guessing it’ll be a lovely surprise?
Not the same bike, but the same fitting. The instructions in the description are spot on. I can’t recall if the angel who posted this video (and a similar one) resides on this forum or not, but they deserve the best rhubarb pie in town as a token of gratitude.
https://youtu.be/4SYAS5xsUlo?si=YFdOVFJGFlns42LN (https://youtu.be/4SYAS5xsUlo?si=YFdOVFJGFlns42LN)
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Not the same bike, but the same fitting. The instructions in the description are spot on. I can’t recall if the angel who posted this video (and a similar one) resides on this forum or not, but they deserve the best rhubarb pie in town as a token of gratitude.
https://youtu.be/4SYAS5xsUlo?si=YFdOVFJGFlns42LN (https://youtu.be/4SYAS5xsUlo?si=YFdOVFJGFlns42LN)
That’s hugely useful. Thankyou Dirk.
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Prepare yourself for a good 10 minutes of straight cussing over the fuel “quick disconnect” when trying to remove the tank. Hopefully you’ve done a similar one in the past and know how much a pain in the patootie it can be if you don’t have the technique down just right. You can do a Google / YouTube search for the procedure.
For whatever reason, I've never had much of a problem with that. Is definitely NOT easy, and I don't relish it, but I always get it on the 2nd-3rd try.
1. Lift and prop up the back of the tank, ensure it is clean and grease free and hands are dry.
2. With right hand position hand so your index and thumb are on the ring and hand is under the line (palm facing up).
3. Squeeze the line TIGHT in your middle/ring/pinky finger and push & pull the hose back and forth firmly, but not to break the plastic elbow.
4. Squeeze line tight and push it towards the elbow/connector and at the same time squeeze the ring between index and thumb and pull it back towards your hand (or if the button type, press the button) and push the whole thing slightly back and forth.
It should pop off..... That's my story, and I'm sticking to it. Have done it dozens of times. Norge, Griso, 1200 Sport, V7ii and multiple other bikes for friends.
Glad I didn't know it was such a PIT@, I would have been more nervous the first time.
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Just because no one explicitly said it yet
Before attempting to disconnect the fuel line, release any fuel pressure.
This is done by unplugging the fuel pump connector and cranking the motor a few times so the injectors bleed down the fuel line pressure.
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Just because no one explicitly said it yet
Before attempting to disconnect the fuel line, release any fuel pressure.
This is done by unplugging the fuel pump connector and cranking the motor a few times so the injectors bleed down the fuel line pressure.
Absolutely! I missed that CRITICAL part. Makes it much easier when the pressure is released.
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Just because no one explicitly said it yet
Before attempting to disconnect the fuel line, release any fuel pressure.
This is done by unplugging the fuel pump connector and cranking the motor a few times so the injectors bleed down the fuel line pressure.
It’s shown and described in the YouTube video that I linked to. I claim grandfathering!
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It’s shown and described in the YouTube video that I linked to. I claim grandfathering!
I assumed it might be shown there, but wanted to "explicitly say it". :boozing:
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Hi all,
Just a small update.
I didn't have the time today to actually replace the sensor. However, When I got to it, there was oil up the connector, and the sensor itself was barely hand tight.
I'm hoping this just means the sensor and the various washers have failed. But I did wonder is this can be a symptom of anything else?
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Hi all,
Just a small update.
I didn't have the time today to actually replace the sensor. However, When I got to it, there was oil up the connector, and the sensor itself was barely hand tight.
I'm hoping this just means the sensor and the various washers have failed. But I did wonder is this can be a symptom of anything else?
You're there, so go ahead and just replace it.
But it sounds like your entire problem is that the sensor unthreaded. It might be fine, but no reason to reuse it now.
Keep in mind the sensor is because just a spring loaded switch which responds to the hydraulic force (pressure) placed against the spring in the passage. If the sensor is loose, that pressure escapes around the threads and might not leave enough to activate the switch (or in this case deactivate the switch since pressure switches are usually normally ON switches that activate the warning circuit UNTIL they are physically turned off by oil pressure pushing the switch so the contacts open).
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Not likely any other problem. Please be aware that the bottom part of this arrangement is a holder, which Guzzi sometimes call a union. That part also engages the rear cam bearing in small block engines. The engine crankshaft should not be rotated with that part out of the engine block as the cam bearing can rotate and then be out of synch and the dowel may not line back up with the camshaft bearing hole.
A good illustration can be found here:
https://www.guzzitek.org/parts_list/pb/750/
The Breva illustration is the clearest.
Brian
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Not likely any other problem. Please be aware that the bottom part of this arrangement is a holder, which Guzzi sometimes call a union. That part also engages the rear cam bearing in small block engines. The engine crankshaft should not be rotated with that part out of the engine block as the cam bearing can rotate and then be out of synch and the dowel may not line back up with the camshaft bearing hole.
A good illustration can be found here:
https://www.guzzitek.org/parts_list/pb/750/
Brian
That’s much appreciated, thanks Brian. When I say it was hand tight, they both rotated and came out with each other if that makes sense?
This tells me both were loose, and given your above info, sounds like it may have been a problem for longer than I’ve realised?
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Also may be how water ingressed into your engine. I for one do not think your commute is why.
I commute just 7 miles each way. Some of it highway speeds, some of it sub 40 mph surface streets. In winter. My Norge is my commute bike. Never once had water or even moisture in my oil. Though the breather box was plugged solid with emulsified oil when I did my 1st service on it. We shall see if that was from me or the PO on my next service.
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Also may be how water ingressed into your engine. I for one do not think your commute is why.
I commute just 7 miles each way. Some of it highway speeds, some of it sub 40 mph surface streets. In winter. My Norge is my commute bike. Never once had water or even moisture in my oil. Though the breather box was plugged solid with emulsified oil when I did my 1st service on it. We shall see if that was from me or the PO on my next service.
@BMCMOTO that's good information to know. Thanks
@ OCA If you pull one of your valve covers off, you'll probably see that the backside has a bunch of the emulsified oil/ what I call Mayo. Of course it will also build up in the air oil separator/ breather up by the air box. Not sure if you have a four valve or eight valve Norge, but IIRC, the 8v CARC bikes are a bit over cooled, and one of the problems is they no longer have a thermostat to control flow through the cooler like the 4v motors did.
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Hi all!
Final update: replacing the oil pressure sensor has fixed the issue!
I’m grateful it was a small problem and grateful for ll of your help and responses. Hugely appreciated.