Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Vagrant on February 01, 2026, 09:09:48 AM
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Seeing as the mother ship isn't interested in making the V85 roadster I want to lower mine more. At 78 the muscles are toast and with a 28" inseam even my lowered 1" v85's are a bit too much when I get off on the side of the road on gravel or a foot slips at a stop. I am not willing to give up all the great things the V85 has like the extra revs, brakes and comfort over a v7-850. My thoughts are a 17" rim laced on a stock wheel. That with my current lower (17MM) shock might make the bike more manageable for me. Would that work with all the nanny systems on the bike or will it go into red light hell on me. Most likely I'd pick up a complete used wheel then send it off to Woodys. Thoughts, facts?
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Ever since my first dual sport I get on and off like a horse. Left foot stays on the peg and swing the right leg over. Side stands and pegs on my KLR, Triumph Tiger and V85 and plenty strong enough.
Pete
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I ran a set of RT wheels on my Hexhead R1200GS and it was a great combo. The 17" front really livened up the steering w/o sacrificing high speed stability and also the increased my tire choices as the RT wheels used common 120 and 180 series rubber so I could get sport, sport touring or super sport rubber.
Honestly I would like if BMW offered the 17" front as an option to the 19" for those of us who are never going to take the bike off-road.
I say go for it especially if you can get tubeless.
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I don't think you specifically said it here, but you do have a lower seat right? You did say you dropped the bike down an inch, but didn't say how.
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Seeing as the mother ship isn't interested in making the V85 roadster I want to lower mine more. At 78 the muscles are toast and with a 28" inseam even my lowered 1" v85's are a bit too much when I get off on the side of the road on gravel or a foot slips at a stop. I am not willing to give up all the great things the V85 has like the extra revs, brakes and comfort over a v7-850. My thoughts are a 17" rim laced on a stock wheel. That with my current lower (17MM) shock might make the bike more manageable for me. Would that work with all the nanny systems on the bike or will it go into red light hell on me. Most likely I'd pick up a complete used wheel then send it off to Woodys. Thoughts, facts?
Steve, I think it's doable, but this is hurting my brain a bit. You mean keep the stock V85 hub (brake rotor/ABS/hub, etc) and have a 17" rim laced to it? You would likely have to reset/learn the ABS module so sensors are sync'd but I doubt it would need much more unless the speedo is connected to the front wheel. THis would give you about a 1" drop in the front. Can you lower the fork on the TT as an alternative?
If you do this, why not go all the way and swap out the beak for a Caponard Front Fender and fit a proper round headlight and new screen?
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The 2” reduction in diameter will result in the front lowering by 1”.
You sit half way between the front and rear contact patch of the tyres, so that equates to 1/2” reduction in reach to the ground, only you know if it’s worth it. I slid the forks up in the yokes and fitted a shorter shock.
That involved major surgery on the side and centre stands, but I got the seat height down to 30” if memory serves.
You can see it here.
(https://i.ibb.co/vCSPMcZn/IMG-1935.png) (https://ibb.co/vCSPMcZn)
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The 2" difference in diameter may be to much for the logic that monitors wheel speed to overcome and your abs and speed indication may not function correctly, even after a recalifration. Food for thought.
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Steve, I think it's doable, but this is hurting my brain a bit. You mean keep the stock V85 hub (brake rotor/ABS/hub, etc) and have a 17" rim laced to it? You would likely have to reset/learn the ABS module so sensors are sync'd but I doubt it would need much more unless the speedo is connected to the front wheel. THis would give you about a 1" drop in the front. Can you lower the fork on the TT as an alternative?
If you do this, why not go all the way and swap out the beak for a Caponard Front Fender and fit a proper round headlight and new screen?
On the BMW's at least there was no resting or relearning the ABS sensor. The sensors are somewhat relational F/R and as long as they are both sensing movement all is well.
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On the BMW's at least there was no resting or relearning the ABS sensor. The sensors are somewhat relational F/R and as long as they are both sensing movement all is well.
Does the ABS and TC (if applicable), work on the differential in rotational speeds in spin up/lock up situations ?
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Does the ABS and TC (if applicable), work on the differential in rotational speeds in spin up/lock up situations ?
There has to be some allowance in the system to allow for wearing tires and different diameter of tires. MY Honda ABS kicking in is seamless. You can barely feel it. My old BMW F650 GS was crude in comparison. It was very obvious by sound and feeling.
Ask if anyone has a 17" wheel to loan, that can be fitted. Have to be sure the sensor ring and sensor line up. I wouldn't worry about spacers to get the caliper/rotor aligned, just tuck them out of the way. Just take it easy and just run it around the block. The ABS system will work or it won't.
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Hamlin would know.
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I don't think you specifically said it here, but you do have a lower seat right? You did say you dropped the bike down an inch, but didn't say how.
As stated 17mm shorter shock factory that lowers seat 1" when allowing for the angle of the shock. The stock seat has no rubbers under it so it's as low as the Guzzi low seat. The forks are raised to the fourth line and the side stand has been shortened already. It's all together not enough as far as I'm concerned.
The real question is if the TC, ABS and Lean angle on the 2025 will work without codes. The speedo is useless anyway so I would use a GPS. The one extra inch of shorter height the 17 would give could be a perfect fit.
Yes I would find a full stock wheel somewhere then I'm sure Woodys can get a rim to fit. Using a 120/70/17 would be great for tire choices.
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Hamlin would know.
I bet he does but I hate to have to ask because unless he has a good wheel for sale he wouldn't make any money on the deal. Unless he can lace me one.
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Maybe try asking the folks who sold you the bike. Appears you've been a good customer. They may be able to guide or assist.
NOT being a smart guy, mind. AS the folks you spent $$$$ with.
Cliff in Queen Creek is a great guy and talented mechanic. Owns Manic Moto. He may assist also.
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As stated 17mm shorter shock factory that lowers seat 1" when allowing for the angle of the shock. The stock seat has no rubbers under it so it's as low as the Guzzi low seat. The forks are raised to the fourth line and the side stand has been shortened already. It's all together not enough as far as I'm concerned.
The real question is if the TC, ABS and Lean angle on the 2025 will work without codes. The speedo is useless anyway so I would use a GPS. The one extra inch of shorter height the 17 would give could be a perfect fit.
Yes I would find a full stock wheel somewhere then I'm sure Woodys can get a rim to fit. Using a 120/70/17 would be great for tire choices.
With a 2" shorter diameter on the front wheel, the only real change would be the timing of the front wheel on the ABS sensor. I had to recalibrate the ABS/TC on the Stornello when I fit the Shinko 705's. Wasn't a big deal, but the TC and ABS was wonky until the recalibrate. I think it's an interesting idea, and will likely improve handling.
Can you drop the front any more? You could also get lower profile tires, that's what I did on the Breva 750 when trying to get it lower for SWMBO to ride.
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If I recall 4 lines down on the forks was maxed for clearance somewhere.
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Does the ABS and TC (if applicable), work on the differential in rotational speeds in spin up/lock up situations ?
Yes!
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Does the ABS and TC (if applicable), work on the differential in rotational speeds in spin up/lock up situations ?
FWIW, I went the other way and ran a 19" front rim and single disk on my Norge for use on dirt roads.
ABS threw an error when the speed got to an indicated 80 kmh (50 mph).
I think it may have disabled the ABS once the ABS light came on - not sure.
Other effects :
Threw the speedometer reading out.
Threw the odometer reading out.
Slowed the steering but still completely tolerable.
Handling was fine, whether on the tarmac or the gravel.
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Steve,
Hard to know unless someone does it, but I would think that keeping the same hub and tone ring, all you'd need to do is to recalibrate the TC/ABS system.
As you know the system (at least on the V7ii and iii) is pretty sensitive to tire size, and even pressure, so a 2" shorter front wheel will definitely send signals different than expected, mess with the ABS and trigger the TC system. For me, the V85 and E5 version with TBW is a big unknown.
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Steve,
Hard to know unless someone does it, but I would think that keeping the same hub and tone ring, all you'd need to do is to recalibrate the TC/ABS system.
As you know the system (at least on the V7ii and iii) is pretty sensitive to tire size, and even pressure, so a 2" shorter front wheel will definitely send signals different than expected, mess with the ABS and trigger the TC system. For me, the V85 and E5 version with TBW is a big unknown.
I've switched through several brands front and rear on all 4 v85s and haven't calibrated one yet. But yes the v7 serries seems a bit touchy.
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I think the forks could go up another inch if I remove the Micky mouse ears I installed on the front of the gas tank for stopping wind
(https://i.ibb.co/TMHVVj2y/thumbnail.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TMHVVj2y)
. I'm at the fourth line (see pic).
Has anybody raised them higher than this?
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I think the forks could go up another inch if I remove the Micky mouse ears I installed on the front of the gas tank for stopping wind
(https://i.ibb.co/TMHVVj2y/thumbnail.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TMHVVj2y)
. I'm at the fourth line (see pic).
Has anybody raised them higher than this?
Not me.
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It's a pretty long travel suspension - are you ever coming close to bottoming out? Put a zip tie on one of the fork legs to find out. If not, you can sacrifice some of the positive travel to reduce front ride height just by winding all the preload out. If that's not enough you could fit shorter springs, or even easier cut down any spacers that are in the forks (not sure if the V85 has any). None of that will create any problems with how the forks function so long as you still have at least a little bit of installed preload on the springs with the forks fully extended (i.e., you still need to compress the springs at least a little to screw the fork caps back on.
All of that is a lot easier than swapping out the front rim. Of course you want to match whatever you do to front ride height at the rear end as well, but you know that.
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These are upsidedown forks. How can they possibly bottom out? There is way more than 5 inches to the fender.
It appears the limit is determined by how far down the top leg is at the same diameter for the triple clamps to engage it.
Pete
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In S. Az. I run 1-1 1/2 turns of preload now because our roads are so bad. In N. Ga. I think I am at 4 turns.