Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: bobra5037 on February 20, 2026, 08:01:22 PM
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G'day all
I'm trying to adjust the clutch on my T3 and am circling the drain plug of confusion. If I attempt to adjust the screw "B" at the back of the gearbox as per the service manual specs (65mm between the claw and the rear of the gearbox "C"), the back of the claw contacts the pivot arm for the foot brake. If I back out the screw, it fouls on the bike frame. There seems to be no happy medium so my assumption is that I've got the whole process wrong. I have disconnected the clutch cable - is this the right process?
OK - a post-posting revelation! Obviously, regardless of the position of the set screw "B", the spring will always push the arm back so the claw contacts the foot brake pivot (Unless the screw hits the frame first). So, how do you measure the 65mm clearance? Should this be with the spring compressed? (ie simulating the clutch lever being pulled).
Any advice please?
Thanks
Rob
(https://i.ibb.co/Rp2TpLdZ/Screenshot-2026-02-21-at-11-52-10-am-gigapixel-standard-v2-1x.png) (https://ibb.co/Rp2TpLdZ)
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They make a longer piece for behind throw out bearing to contact lever with 2 orings on it. Would that help?
EDIT: https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=4793
It sounds like you are doing it correctly just need more length, I have seen a bearing on end of rod, I would not do that if you can make it work.
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And is your throw out bearing intact?
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Please get under the bike and post a picture of the Throwout Outer Body as it sits at rest in the back of the transmission. That Outer Body should be roughly flush with the rear cover casting around it. If it is recessed then it indicates serious throwout system wear. If it is proud of the casting it indicates serious clutch disc wear. Please let us see.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
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Please get under the bike and post a picture of the Throwout Outer Body as it sits at rest in the back of the transmission. That Outer Body should be roughly flush with the rear cover casting around it. If it is recessed then it indicates serious throwout system wear. If it is proud of the casting it indicates serious clutch disc wear. Please let us see.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
Bold Red above...Or you have installed a SD Tech clutch plate set?
I would not get hung up on the measurement numbers. I would adjust the clutch lever arm on the transmission with the screw on the arm so that with the spring tension taken up with finger pressure, the arm is about 90deg or a bit over 90deg to the trans. The spring, would likely make the lever hit a frame/brake part with it adjusted like this with no cable attached. You do not want the clutch plate spring tension to hold the lever back and hit the frame bits.
It is much easier to just do what I said myself than to explain it. Hope this helps,
Tom
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Thanks to all for the tips. Some of it sent me straight to the service manual to interpret 😁 as I’m pretty new at this. I’ve reassembled everything and will test ride this afternoon so fingers crossed.
A couple of pics from under the bike are attached - I’ve no idea how to interpret them other than I need to clean under there and think about the surface rust! Whether the clutch mechanism looks right is beyond me.
A bit of background - I bought the bike a couple of months ago from my neighbour. He had shipped it out from the UK when he emigrated to Australia but it sat in his garage for 20+ years. Before he sold it to me he had all brake lines and pads replaced and the carburettors rebuilt.
(https://i.ibb.co/WvFRvQ6Q/IMG-5755.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WvFRvQ6Q)
(https://i.ibb.co/ccBNQtXW/IMG-5757.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ccBNQtXW)
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It has 23K miles on the clock and my first job was to replace the chrome cylinders. That went ok apart from a few stubborn nuts and bolts but now the bike runs like a dream BUT the clutch was slipping. I know a leaking seal is one option but I thought I’d tackle the simple things first and just adjust the clutch. Time will tell if it made a difference.
Again, thanks to those who replied with advice.
Cheers
Rob
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Some freeplay is important. About 1/8” minimum at the lever .It will change and are sometimes different as it warms up. Once they start slipping, they are on their way out.