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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Buddy Shagmore on May 24, 2026, 05:52:30 PM
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Went for a ride today on my '24 V7 Stone Ten. About 5 minutes in, while in the fast lane on the freeway, I briefly lost power going about 70 in 6th gear. I immediately started to merge over to the right, and while doing so, the power returned. I exited the freeway at the next off ramp, and took the local boulevard back home.
In my garage, I took off the battery cover and tightened up the terminal cables. The + was tight. The - was not quite tight.
This is the second time this has happened in the 17 months I've had the bike.
I also checked the sidestand...it was fine. I also changed the traction control from level 2 to level 1.
Going forward, I'm gonna check those terminals more often.
The beloved pulsations only "con" I suppose.
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That sucks, I have the same bike. But never had that problem. I'd take it to a dealer and see if it shows any codes. Good luck.
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Pretty sure it was the loose negative terminal cable again.
I'll take it out again tomorrow and find out. It sure is an unsettling feeling when you are riding and not sure if your bike will continue running. Check your battery cables fellas.
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I question the tank vent.
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Seems unlikely that the battery connection could break, causing loss of power and then remake itself for the rest of the ride. The first time it happened did you do the same battery terminal tightening?
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The more I think about it I did have the same thing happen on my 01 EV coming down Mt. Lemmon one day. Checked everything and when I got to the battery one terminal was a quite loose. I tightened it up and off I went. Same thing happened about a year later. It turned out a 20 year old original fuse had disintegrated from old age. I replaced them all with new Buss.
The first thing I would do today on any 10 year old bike is all grounds, new fuses and relays making sure to spray Deoxit in the receptacles.
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My 2021 V7-850 had a pronounced hiccup (loss of power) at speed. The cause of the hiccup resided in the Evap emissions system, and specifically the Evap control valve.
Many choose to go through the work to completely remove the Evap system, but I took the easy way out.
The Evap control valve is pictured below. I removed the lower hose. It is important to then cap off the Evap control valve. It took me longer to figure out how to remove the side cover for the first time (instructions are under the seat :wink: ) than performing the fix.
No more loss of power at highway speeds since.
(https://i.ibb.co/VYqzQVKr/IMG-9775-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VYqzQVKr)
I did buy a set of rubber caps, but if you have a good hardware store nearby you should be able to find a suitable cap.
(https://i.ibb.co/hxCzCT08/IMG-9774.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hxCzCT08)
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Yes, the first time it happened, about a year ago, it was the negative terminal cable that was not tight enough.
The lovely pulsations from the engine eventually loosens it up. I'm going to keep a 10mm wrench in the tool kit.
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Yes, the first time it happened, about a year ago, it was the negative terminal cable that was not tight enough.
The lovely pulsations from the engine eventually loosens it up. I'm going to keep a 10mm wrench in the tool kit.
A serrated washer anyone?