Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Rons on June 08, 2026, 06:36:25 PM
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I started the valve check/adjustment on my 2026 V7 Sport tonight.
Got as far as removing the spark plug cover. I could not get the spark plug boot off. Been working on cars and motorcycles since high school. I twisted and tried to pry up with a screwdriver. Also tried a pick to “break the seal”. Tried needle nose pliers and mini pliers.
Finally pulled straight up and ….. broke the cap right off. I swore so loudly that the WILDguzzi members in Connecticut probably heard me.
(https://i.ibb.co/396PCDnR/IMG-3661.jpg) (https://ibb.co/396PCDnR)
What is the “trick” to removing these spark plug caps? And why is it so difficult? If this bike wasn’t so charismatic, I might sell it and stick with my Triumph. I had a Ducati 900ss carby and out 33k miles on it. Changed plugs many times with no issues.
Ugh, I’m so frustrated. So now I have to replace that plug wire nd figure out how to get the other plug wire off.
Any suggestions? I’ve seen some videos on the 4V and 1400 motors using zip ties and special tools. The vids I watched with the V7 models all showed the guy twisting and pulling the plug wire right off. 😡
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Are they different from the V7 III and early V9? If not, I haven’t had such problem. I wiggle and rotate, and eventually they’d pop off. But hey—aren’t these plugs and wires known to be subpar in quality anyway? If so, consider this an opportunity for the upgrade…just more immediate than anyone would prefer.
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Are they different from the V7 III and early V9? If not, I haven’t had such problem. I wiggle and rotate, and eventually they’d pop off. But hey—aren’t these plugs and wires known to be subpar in quality anyway? If so, consider this an opportunity for the upgrade…just more immediate than anyone would prefer.
Not sure if they changed for 26 with the different injectors and other upgrades. There appears to be a hard tube in the rubber, and that broke off as well. Pretty piss poor design if you ask me.
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I THINK…. The go to method is to get some strong cord or string and wrap it around the porcelain plug shank, then pull up on the string to effectively apply the force to the base of the plug cap.
I’m fairly sure this is the go with 8V big blocks…(Stelvio, Norge et al…)
Might be wrong, I’ve never owned either one…(Never will)
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Are they different from the V7 III and early V9? If not, I haven’t had such problem. I wiggle and rotate, and eventually they’d pop off. But hey—aren’t these plugs and wires known to be subpar in quality anyway? If so, consider this an opportunity for the upgrade…just more immediate than anyone would prefer.
Anyone know of a good aftermarket plug wire for an E5+ specifically 2026 V7 Sport?
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Mine were a bitch also and so were the new v85's. They did come off though. I made sure I had a coating of Vaseline in them when I reinstalled.
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Agree with some kind of grease/vaseline when fitting is likely to help, on a similar theme I always put a light smear of copper grease on sparkplug threads to ensure they don't get stuck in the head.
I had similar happen on my Ducati Monster, front cylinder (more exposed to weather than the rear) where the internals of the plug lead/cap stayed on the plug due to corrosion whilst the silicone lead came away.
I suppose the positioning of Guzzi plugs makes them likely to corrode especially if left outside/ridden in rain.
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I THINK…. The go to method is to get some strong cord or string and wrap it around the porcelain plug shank, then pull up on the string to effectively apply the force to the base of the plug cap.
I’m fairly sure this is the go with 8V big blocks…(Stelvio, Norge et al…)
Might be wrong, I’ve never owned either one…(Never will)
It doesn't look like there is enough room for the string to pass between the valve cover and spark plug cap.
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I do not remember if the hole in the cover is large enough to be lifted off the remainder of the cap or not, but if not it should give good leverage to wrestle the remains off. I do not recall any particular issues removing the ones on my V9, I just turned them back and forth a few times to break the seal.
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I suppose the positioning of Guzzi plugs makes them likely to corrode especially if left outside/ridden in rain.
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My V7 has 900 miles on it. The caps were not corroded. They just would not come off. I’ve never seen anything like it.
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I finally had some time to work on the V7 Sport. The other spark plug cap came right off with a bit of a back and forth twist.
So I went ahead and did the valve check. Both exhaust valves were right on at.006. Both intake valuables were a bit loose as a .005 would fit right in. Adjusted them to a .004 and put it back together.
Now I need to address the broken spark plug cap.
Does anyone know if I can purchase one and clamp it on, or will I need to buy a pre made wire and replace the whole thing?
Thanks for any suggestions.
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Vaseline is petrol based & bad for rubber , dielectric grease is silicone based , much better for any electrical connection !
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Ok, went to the dealer and bought a new spark plug wire cap.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZRjHZPHJ/IMG-3668.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZRjHZPHJ)
It just screws onto the wire. Very easy fix. Dabbed some dielectric grease on each plug cap so this should be easier in 6,000 miles.
Alls well that ends well!
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Vaseline is petrol based & bad for rubber , dielectric grease is silicone based , much better for any electrical connection !
As it is "dielectric grease" is made to prevent electrical transmission ! It works fine if it's applied to the rubber plug boot , but not
to get on the metal cap that contacts the plug lead . People get away with it , but , just apply some to the porcelain of the plug and
then it's weather sealed and prevents moisture from creeping up under the plug cap .
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Peter, I am glad someone else is saying this. I have in the past and was told I was wrong. If this is put on contacts conduction of energy is compromised. It is to keep moisture out, kind of like WD40 which is generally used as a lubricant. It does have some lubricity properties but that isn't its main function which is water displacement.
kk
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As it is "dielectric grease" is made to prevent electrical transmission ! It works fine if it's applied to the rubber plug boot , but not
to get on the metal cap that contacts the plug lead . People get away with it , but , just apply some to the porcelain of the plug and
then it's weather sealed and prevents moisture from creeping up under the plug cap .
Don’t worry—I’ve read that in time dielectric grease eventually becomes conductive. That said, I’ve also read that so long as there’s a strong connection (think battery terminals and other pressure-clamping-style connections), the electrons will still flow fine, but it would do well to see more experienced folks comment on that.
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The ignition system produces many 10’s of thousands of volts. Air is a great insulator. Since the spark can jump through in excess of a quarter inch of air gap, Dielectric grease is not going to inhibit conductivity.
Vaseline is definitely the wrong product. Truthfully, I don’t like any substance getting on the porcelain of a spark plug because it can provide a path for the spark to travel down the outside of the plug and cause misfires.
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I added a dab of dielectric grease to each spark plug boot. Just enough to prevent ( I hope) the boot from sticking next time I have to remove it.
It was not as big a deal as I thought. I was having nightmares of past experiences with cutting and crimping spark plug wires. These simply screw on and off, easy-peasy. Center spike screws into the middle of the wire, no tools or skill needed.
However, as a MG owner, I would like to prevent the unneeded expense of $41 for a new boot, if possible. LOL….
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The ignition system produces many 10’s of thousands of volts. Air is a great insulator. Since the spark can jump through in excess of a quarter inch of air gap, Dielectric grease is not going to inhibit conductivity.
I disagree. You *may* get a capacitor from the grease though.
(Many moons ago, I was a Snr. Tech. in a high voltage lab. Just a bit of useless info.)
For giggles, I tried Google AI:
Dielectric grease is a significantly better electrical insulator than air. Because its silicone or synthetic base lacks free electrons, it actively prevents current flow, arcing, and short circuits. While air can break down and conduct high-voltage electricity (arcing), dielectric grease provides a dense, protective barrier against the elements..
Use on spark plug boots, battery terminals, and multi-pin electrical connectors to prevent moisture buildup, fretting, and corrosion. It is also highly hydrophobic, making it ideal for weatherproofing exposed connections.
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I disagree. You *may* get a capacitor from the grease though.
(Many moons ago, I was a Snr. Tech. in a high voltage lab. Just a bit of useless info.)
For giggles, I tried Google AI:
You’re welcome to disagree. I will stick with what I learned from manufacturers including Porsche, Mitsubishi, Ford, Harley-Davidson and others during 30 years as a certified master technician.