Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Hormel Chavez on June 26, 2026, 12:12:04 PM
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Okay, well, maybe not divine. BUT, if you know me, you'll know that I'll do almost anything to avoid a brake bleeding session. I got this bike that had obvious been sitting for a while. No, and I mean zero, rear brake pressure. In fact I was wondering if my foot was even on the level it was so soft. Well, after some reading, I found a solution that was a direct match for my level of ambition and desire to remove the Tupperware - hang a weight on the pedal to depress it and let it sit for 24 hours. This is my kind of repair. And lo, the angles or elves or homunculi did come forth and fix the rear brake while I slept! Does it still suck? Yes. Do I probably still need to change the fluid? Absolutely. But for now, it functions! Anyway, I thought it might be good to post for the lazy or spastic, like myself. If you have a dead rear brake, try this out. It might just work.
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The extra air finds it's way back out if pressure held. Sometimes it all lines up to work. Well done.
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The extra air finds it's way back out if pressure held. Sometimes it all lines up to work. Well done.
I have never understood this.
Is it air or vaporised fluid that condenses back into the liquid ?
Where does it go ?
Seriously though, check out “Norge service schedule” on these pages. It includes changing clutch fluid as well, it’s absolutely vital.
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First the weight on the rear brake pedal (I used a 18” pipe wrench) worked great on the Norge, I had chronic spongy no brake with pedal all the way down. I’d bled the brakes last fall and despite my numerous attempts at bleeding including taking the caliper off and hanging higher than the reservoir, nothing restored complete function. Then I read this post hung the wrench on and after a day it had come back partially, so I hung the wrench on for a week. Voila complete restoration of brake pedal function. I like having a firm functional rear brake again. Thanks. I’m trying it on the EVside car rig now.
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The other fix is ti take apart the master cylinder and clean the piston,it helped my Stelvio.
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Mark Etheridge, Moto Guzzi Classics, just posted a video explaining techniques for the famous not pumping up brake bleeding difficulty
Here… https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1D5GuY9C4c/?mibextid=wwXIfr
With all the lines still attached, remove it from the frame and rotate it clockwise and anti-clockwise..
Bubbles get stuck right at the entrance and exit of the MC