Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Ncdan on July 26, 2026, 11:06:38 AM
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Hey guys, just want to throw this out there as it may be helpful someday for y’all the way it was for me.
Yesterday while out of town, the radiator in my 2004 Jeep Wrangler developed a 3 inch crack in the top tank.
Being being 100 miles from home I stopped at an AutoZone to see what product I could get to possibly seal the crack long enough for me to get home.
After looking at two or three different epoxies, which had 2 to 4 hours curing time, I went with the JB weld Steel Stick.
After mixing the Play-Doh type ingredients together, I applied it on the crack from one end to the other.
Within 10 to 15 minutes, it was as hard as the plastic top that I applied at on.
I drove the Jeep 100 miles back to my residence and the crack was totally sealed and secure.
This stuff works wanders if you get caught out somewhere with an oil or water leak and it is probably a good idea to just keep it in your tool bag.
It could very well save the day and a lot of headaches for you.
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Great information and advice. I wasn't aware of this JB product.
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Great information and advice. I wasn't aware of this JB product.
+1
Thanks for the heads-up on this Dan.
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Love a story with a simple happy ending!
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Back in the early 2000's, when I was a young daredevil dabbling in track days, a rider in the pits next to me tossed his Kawasaki Ninja down the track on its left side. The slide ground a hole in the alternator cover on the engine large enough to stick your thumb in. Now this happened early on the very first day (Friday) of a three-day track school event. Not wanting to lose the rest of the weekend, he pulled off the damaged cover, degreased it completely, then stuck some duct tape over the damaged area to act as a base. He layered in some JB Weld and let it cure overnight. The next day, after reassembly, the bike was leak free and he was able to complete the weekend.
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JBWeld, duct tape, zip ties, and WD-40 - all good additions to the tool kit. :grin:
I like the fact that the epoxy stick cures quickly.
Thanks for sharing!
-Stretch
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I used that same Steel Stick product on a BMW K75 S gas tank. On the underside of the tank, several pinholes developed. After a thorough clean and de greasing, I applied the SS over a wide area of the underside tank. Gave it about a week to fully cure, and the leak was sealed. Lasted at least 3 years, and after sold, maybe more. This area is not visible when the tank is in place, but I acquired some Dakar Yellow touch up, and cover the patched surface.
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I remember going cross country and had to adjust a belt on a 1969 chevy when the bottom of a crescent wrench came loose and fell into the moving fan which threw it into the radiator making a leak. My brother hiked to a town and came back with powdered red pepper. We put some in and that leak stopped. I drove that car for another four years with no trouble.
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Follow up story.
Knowing that the 22 year old plastic tank developed the crack common sense dictates that the whole plastic top was compromised. When I got home, I made plans with my mechanic to replace the radiator this morning.
When I got to my mechanic shop the pressurized crack had seeped a little around the edge of the JB Weld material. It would still have held up good enough to got me additional miles if necessary, unless the crack extended out from under the JB weld.
The motor has 135K miles so I made a tactical decision to go ahead and replace the water pump, thermostat, and hoses. I think that spending an extra 90 bucks for preventative maintenance was a good decision. I was able to get a new radiator for 130.00 bucks.
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JBWeld, duct tape, zip ties, and WD-40 - all good additions to the tool kit. :grin:
I like the fact that the epoxy stick cures quickly.
Thanks for sharing!
-Stretch
That’s the reason I went with the steel stick, the 5 minute cure time. Everything else was hours long and I was stuck in the parking lot of O’Ralleys auto parts.
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All of the parts you noted are WAAY cheaper than a tow, or staying overnight and finding a garage in the morning.
So, of course, is a packet of JBWeld! :grin:
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Drive Chain broke on the Bonneville 20 odd years ago. That sucker wedged in between the trans sprocket and the case and took out a chunk of the primary case. Not a very big chunk, and it was mostly one piece. After having to cut up the links that were wedged in, with a dremel and gong thru a couple of cutting wheels. I used JB weld and some thin aluminum to fix it. Worked fine, over the years it held up till maybe the last 3 or 4 when some oil would start dripping out of it.
I have used the stick also and various JB epoxies as temp or semi permanent fixes, due to lack of parts, time or the most important reason, cheapness.
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That’s the reason I went with the steel stick, the 5 minute cure time..
The package shows as 5 minute set/1 hour cure times, on the ones that I found on the 'bay. :undecided:
AI
J-B Weld SteelStik is a hand-mixable, steel-reinforced epoxy putty stick priced around £6.99 to £8.44 that quickly repairs or rebuilds metal. It sets in 3 to 5 minutes and fully cures in 60 minutes to a dark grey color.
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I have a transmission that was "holed" due to an internal failure. Fixed the internals and JB Welded the jagged hole. That was in 1988 and it's still holding just fine!!! :) Great stuff BUT don't use it in the "wrong place!!"
I was installing a couple of velocity stacks on a pair of Amal Concentric carbs 10 years ago and foolishly decided to use JB Weld. Worked perfectly...until I needed to remove the stacks a couple of years later. No way!! They are still on there and the only method of removal is heat. Unfortunately, the heat required to release the JB Weld will also destroy the Amal carb!!! No, I have no idea why I thought it was a good idea to use the JB Weld for that purpose!! ;)
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I have a transmission that was "holed" due to an internal failure. Fixed the internals and JB Welded the jagged hole. That was in 1988 and it's still holding just fine!!! :) Great stuff BUT don't use it in the "wrong place!!"
I was installing a couple of velocity stacks on a pair of Amal Concentric carbs 10 years ago and foolishly decided to use JB Weld. Worked perfectly...until I needed to remove the stacks a couple of years later. No way!! They are still on there and the only method of removal is heat. Unfortunately, the heat required to release the JB Weld will also destroy the Amal carb!!! No, I have no idea why I thought it was a good idea to use the JB Weld for that purpose!! ;)
Well as long as it keeps the fluid in the place it’s supposed to be all is good. 👍
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I have a transmission that was "holed" due to an internal failure. Fixed the internals and JB Welded the jagged hole. That was in 1988 and it's still holding just fine!!! :) Great stuff BUT don't use it in the "wrong place!!"
I was installing a couple of velocity stacks on a pair of Amal Concentric carbs 10 years ago and foolishly decided to use JB Weld. Worked perfectly...until I needed to remove the stacks a couple of years later. No way!! They are still on there and the only method of removal is heat. Unfortunately, the heat required to release the JB Weld will also destroy the Amal carb!!! No, I have no idea why I thought it was a good idea to use the JB Weld for that purpose!! ;)
Interesting. It would be a great experiment to see what temperature it takes to force JB Weld to release. I suspect it is a lot higher than most epoxies.
That is the good part about using a lot of adhesives or bearing fitting liquids, a bit of heat and they lose strength.
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I have a transmission that was "holed" due to an internal failure. Fixed the internals and JB Welded the jagged hole. That was in 1988 and it's still holding just fine!!! :)
This is partly how the late John Boettcher got the nickname "JB Weld". The left-hand threaded nut on the front of the transmission output shaft spun off grinding a hole through the transmission case. He repaired it with a metal plug and JB Weld. (This is from memory, so don't sue me if it's not totally factually correct :wink: ).
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Marine Tex is another similar product. It is really tough I know of boat racers who have used it to modify intake and exhaust port shapes on two stroke racing motors.
kk
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I sold Marine tex wholesale for years. Fantastic product and it worked very well on polymers.
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Permatex has a similar product for repairing gas tanks. Will cure even if the gas is still dripping out. I used it on my LeMans tank about 25 years ago and its still holding. Its in the rear corner hidden by the seat.
Pete
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The water weld is amazing too. Many years ago while at the Wisconsin rally, I notice gas dripping from under the tank of my Centauro. After pulling the tank I discovered the connector on the tank had a crack in it. Filled it with water weld and rode it like that for several years until I sold the bike. The "proper" fix was to replace the tank $$.
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The water weld is amazing too. Many years ago while at the Wisconsin rally, I notice gas dripping from under the tank of my Centauro. After pulling the tank I discovered the connector on the tank had a crack in it. Filled it with water weld and rode it like that for several years until I sold the bike. The "proper" fix was to replace the tank $$.
Is “water weld” a product of JB Weld?
And it must include gasoline as well?
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Is “water weld” a product of JB Weld?
And it must include gasoline as well?
Yes, it's made by JB Weld specifically for liquid applications. Cures underwater too. Pretty neat stuff.