Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: gwensp on May 24, 2009, 02:36:55 PM
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OK I know it possbile cos people have done it. But I cant for the life of me get the fuel coupler on our 750 Breva apart. Come on you folks that have had you lil Breva tanks off how do you get the coupler apart.
Does the grey outer ring get pushed in the direction of the hose or in the direction of the fuel tank fixing? How much pressure do you need to apply to get the grey part to move? Any other tricks I have run the bike with the pump disconnected and I have squirted some PTFE lub into the coupler.
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I just replaced the filter and hose on my Brevas fuel pump. I couldn't get the little gray and red coupling apart either. And with Micha's insistence that its very delicate and to try real hard not to break it, I gave up and just left it on.
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Prop the tank up or get a helper to hold it up. With one hand support the red fuel tank elbow on the back side, with your other hand palm the fuel line and push it toward the red elbow (that why you want to support it with your other hand ) with your thumb and index fingers pull back on the grey collar and it should release it.
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(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1076/1024754255_7c017305ef.jpg?v=0)
The bugger
I usually use two flat nose pliers, one for supporting from the backside of the connector, and one for pressing the outer collar (straight!!!!) backwards.
And a piece of 2X2" batten as a third hand keeping the tank up, to make room for the surgery.
It's told you shall leave the bike standing for a while to relieve gas pressure. Have no experience about that, since I haven't demounted th tank unscheduled. Ever. ;D
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I had a heck of a time first time I did it. Have a look at the thread '
Breva 750 - gearchange quits' - there's people there who know how to do it and explain it in a way that makes sense - at least to me it does.\
I wish my problems with the Breva were that simple ...
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Yes one of the sages pointed out that the fuel line will probably maintain pressure for a while after the pump is off and suggested that before attempting to disconnect the 'Quick Release unplug the power and level sender and then turn the bike over with the starter. It'll fire for a few revolutions and then stall, repeat a couple of times to de-pressurise the line and then attempt to get the quick release off, (Push pipe towards elbow and then pull collar back towards pipe and withdraw pipe from fitting.) Because the fuel line is de-pressurised it comes off much easier. I could of kicked myself when it was pointed out! It's so obvious when you think about it ::) :P
Pete
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I have done it many times now. I will tell you the way I do it and you might try it and it may work for you. I have never believed there is pressure in the line. If there is, I have never been able to determine for sure. I pull the tank out a ways and put a block of wood to hold the tank up. When you lift the tank it puts pressure on the coupling, kinda a cockeye angle and you will almost never get the coupling apart. At this point the fuel line is at the at about the 35 or 40 after the hour on a time clock.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/windsurfed/BrevaFuelCoupling35.jpg)
Rotate the fuel line so it is at the 45 after the hour on the time clock. (90 degrees (parallel) with the tank) It must be in this position when attempting to release the coupling.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/windsurfed/BrevafuelCoupling90.jpg)
The Black fuel line needs to be pushed forward and the grey ring needs to be pushed towards you. Do not squeeze the grey ring. It must be pushed from the rear. By squeezing it you put a warpy pressure on the clips inside the coupling and you ain’t gonna get it off. The whole thing only needs to move 1/8 of an inch.
All 3 things must be done at the same time correctly. Fuel line at 90 degrees, Pushing the Black fuel line forward, Pushing the grey ring toward you. Once in this position, pull the black fuel line and the Grey ring away from the red coupling, and walla, it comes apart.
I know, It sounds simple enough, But it works well. The problem is getting behind and pushing the grey ring toward you, there ain’t a whole lot of room to work in there and that is what makes a person #$@%^&%!! It still takes me 2 or 3 attempts to get it off. But I know for sure that little bugger comes apart.
The marks on the coupling in this picture are earlier experienes from using pliers squeezing on the gray ring and with no results, just frustrations.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/windsurfed/Brevafuelcouplingscrapes.jpg)
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Fortunately I have not had to attempt this yet but it is coming up. Threads, descriptions and photos like these make owning a Moto Guzzi when you are hundreds of miles from the nearest dealer a whole lot more manageable.
Thanks all.
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Could you clarify your vectors? "Towards you" and "forward" need reference points to get the actual directions things are getting pushed. Thanks.
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Could you clarify your vectors? "Towards you" and "forward" need reference points to get the actual directions things are getting pushed. Thanks.
The black line needs to be pushed towards the red plastic bit and the gray ring needs to be away from the red plastic bit.
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Yes one of the sages pointed out that the fuel line will probably maintain pressure for a while after the pump is off and suggested that before attempting to disconnect the 'Quick Release unplug the power and level sender and then turn the bike over with the starter. It'll fire for a few revolutions and then stall, repeat a couple of times to de-pressurise the line and then attempt to get the quick release off, (Push pipe towards elbow and then pull collar back towards pipe and withdraw pipe from fitting.) Because the fuel line is de-pressurised it comes off much easier. I could of kicked myself when it was pointed out! It's so obvious when you think about it ::) :P
Pete
Make sure that you first do what Pete says in the post that I quoted. But, even then, some of these connectors just don't want to release every time. I used to own a Breva 750 and after I de-pressurised the line, it would come off, first time, every time. But then, I bought a V7 Classic with the identical connector and it was hell to disconnect. (many other owners have had this identical problem)
The gray ring finally broke and I replaced all my fuel injection lines and replaced the difficult connector with a much-improved, quick connector that a lot of Beemer owners use to replace their difficult connectors.
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The gray ring finally broke and I replaced all my fuel injection lines and replaced the difficult connector with a much-improved, quick connector that a lot of Beemer owners use to replace their difficult connectors.
Helpful if we could get a photograph and an official part number for this repair.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SYAS5xsUlo
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SYAS5xsUlo
Looks simple enough, doesn't it? ~; ;D
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Let engine run to get pressure of like in the video.
the part that stick out of the pump and breaks is aprilia part AP8104192, or Ford 1072003 from Fiesta mk6/7 and Fusion
here my video that shows it:
https://youtu.be/l756JJ-PEXg
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Lift the back end of the tank and hold it up with a piece of wood.
Disconnect the electrical wire to the fuel pump
Start the engine
After the engine stops, rotate the fuel line to the nine o'clock position
Take your channel locks and put one jaw on the egde of the gray coupling which is closest to the tank. Put the other jaw on a ridge of the black fuel hose.
Gently squeeze the channel lock while pushing the black fuel hose towards the tank, and then pull the hose away from the tank.
The coupling comes free...ezpz.