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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Moto Fugazzi on March 20, 2014, 09:58:44 AM
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I'm getting a set of Breva 750 Wheels for my V7C. What size tires do they take? The manual says 110/70 ZR17 and 130/80 ZR17. I've read conflicting posts here that they do or don't take radial tires. Which is it?
Ken
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OEM TIRES: 2004 BREVA V750:
F: 110/70-17 Pirelli Sport Demon = 110mm (4.3") Wide x 77mm (3.0") Tall
R: 130/80-17 Pirelli Sport Demon = 130mm (5.1") Wide x 104mm (4.1") Tall
METZLER LASERTECH TubeLess ("TL")
F: 110/70 - 17 Front M/C 54H = 110mm (4.3") Wide x 77mm (3.0") Tall
R: 130/80 - 17 Rear M/C 65H = 130mm (5.1") Wide x 104mm (4.1") Tall
http://www.metzeler.com/site/us/products/tyres-catalogue/Lasertec.html
You can use tubeless tires on Breva 750s because they have cast rims (no wire spokes).
I have worn out a set of both the Pirelli Sport Demon and the Metzler Lasertech on my own 2004 Breva 750. Both brands are tubeless tires. Of the two, the Pirelli Sport Demons handled better and had better tread life.
'Geezer
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I have a Kenda Cruiser S/T on the front and a Dunlop 130/90 on the back. When the Dunlop is worn out(soon) it's getting a 130/90 Shinko 230 put on. I use my Breva for sport/touring. I like the Kenda 110/70-17 front tire so much it's also on the front of my MZ 660 single. ;D
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This is taken from the manual. I thought the R stands for radial, but I believe the Sport Demons are bias. Z is a pretty high speed rating for this bike.
Type BRIDGESTONE BATLAX or PIRELLI SPORT DAEMON
Front Size: 110/70 - ZR 17”
Inflating pressure: 220 kpa
Inflation pressure with passenger: + 0,3 atm
Rear Size: 130/80 - ZR 17”
Inflating pressure: 240 kpa
Inflation pressure with passenger: + 0,3 atm
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I'm getting a set of Breva 750 Wheels for my V7C. What size tires do they take? The manual says 110/70 ZR17 and 130/80 ZR17. I've read conflicting posts here that they do or don't take radial tires. Which is it?
Ken
Use bias tires.
Pirelli Sport Demons or Michelin Pilot Activ.
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Bias it is, then. Muchos Grassiass!
Ken
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Bias it is, then. Muchos Grassiass!
Ken
-and keep a long way away from the Metzelers. They were a la mode in the mid 80s. Tires have improved since then.
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-and keep a long way away from the Metzelers. They were a la mode in the mid 80s. Tires have improved since then.
this
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I planned on Sport Demons just like I normally run on my V7C. If the wheels would have been meant for radials, then I would have put on some Angels.
Ken
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Follow up question.
The Breva wheel is 17" vs. the 18" on the V7C. To balance the bike a little better, should I go with a 130/70 in the rear instead of the 130/80 that is calls for? That would drop the rear about 15mm or .59"
Ken
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Follow up question.
The Breva wheel is 17" vs. the 18" on the V7C. To balance the bike a little better, should I go with a 130/70 in the rear instead of the 130/80 that is calls for? That would drop the rear about 15mm or .59"
Ken
It will give you even less clearance. I wouldn't.
My Breva had a 130/70 on the rear when I bought it. Apart from speedo error and clearance I didn't notice much difference between that and the standard one. I'd stick to the 130/80 unless they are hard to find near you.
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I have found the Sport Demons to be a very good tire; sticks well with (usually) fairly good tire life. I would have tried the Michelin Pilot Active on the rear only that Pfaff recommended but when I needed one there were none in stock so just stayed with the Sport Demon.
I rode a Breva with a BT45 Bridgestone on the front and it was just awful compared to the Sport Demon.
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It will give you even less clearance. I wouldn't.
My Breva had a 130/70 on the rear when I bought it. Apart from speedo error and clearance I didn't notice much difference between that and the standard one. I'd stick to the 130/80 unless they are hard to find near you.
Good point. What about going to a 110/80-17 front instead of the 110/70-17?
Ken
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Looks like I'll be trying 110/80-17 Pilot Activs on the front instead of the 110/70. Anybody think there will be any handling issues? The rear tire will also be an 80 series which is the stock height.
Funny thing is that I had a 130/90 series put on the rear last year (only tire available after a flat), and the speedo is dead on with my GPS.
Ken
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I'm getting a set of Breva 750 Wheels for my V7C. What size tires do they take? The manual says 110/70 ZR17 and 130/80 ZR17. I've read conflicting posts here that they do or don't take radial tires. Which is it?
Ken
Search "V7R Goin' Tubeless" it was my thread from when I did the same thing to my V7R. The Breva wheels may not be a direct replacement (mine were not). If you get the Breva axles and spacers it should be a direct swap. If not you will have to fab a bushing for the front and rear wheels.
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I read up on that post. I did get the Breva spares, but not the axles. Do I really need the Breva axles?
Ken
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I read up on that post. I did get the Breva spares, but not the axles. Do I really need the Breva axles?
Ken
Time will show, I suppose. ;D
Cannot remember what's oem tire sizes, but I doubt you'll feel any difference between '70 and '80 profile. I'd stick to what's recommended to the Breva however, as that specific size probably is approved by a reason. That may be an Italian reason, but anyway... ;D
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I read up on that post. I did get the Breva spares, but not the axles. Do I really need the Breva axles?
Ken
Neither the front nor the rear axles match in Guzzi part number between the Breva and the V7. Nevada would, but the hubs are different than the cast wheels on the Breva. Not sure, but one would think they would have made the V7 Stone wheels share the axles with the wire wheeled models...
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Neither the front nor the rear axles match in Guzzi part number between the Breva and the V7. Nevada would, but the hubs are different than the cast wheels on the Breva. Not sure, but one would think they would have made the V7 Stone wheels share the axles with the wire wheeled models...
I have a 2009 V7C. Is that the axle you checked? I could see that the stone would be different.
Ken
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I read up on that post. I did get the Breva spares, but not the axles. Do I really need the Breva axles?
Ken
I will have to check. Originally I did not have the Breva spacers or axles. With some fabrication and modifications got things to work. Then I bought Breva spacers and axle Asa package. Can't remember if the axles are the same. For so e reason I think the shoulders are different that is why the spacers a different lenghts.
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I have a 2009 V7C. Is that the axle you checked? I could see that the stone would be different.
Ken
Yep. I was researching this for a Breva 750/Enduro project idea I had.
The wheel is wider on the Breva, hence the spacer/axle differences. About the only thing on the front wheel which stays the same are the brakes/forks...
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After looking the parts manuals, they are different. I wonder how much, and in what way? Hopefully the wheel seller still has the axles on hand. Wish I would have caught the difference sooner...
Ken
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I wouldn't worry about it too much, the individual parts aren't too pricey. The Breva wheels are the hardest/most expensive parts to find. Plus, it's a one time purchase... and then you get 17" tires forever! ;-T Should make your V7 handle great, the Breva turns in really well...
-Joe
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Time will show, I suppose. ;D
Cannot remember what's oem tire sizes, but I doubt you'll feel any difference between '70 and '80 profile. I'd stick to what's recommended to the Breva however, as that specific size probably is approved by a reason. That may be an Italian reason, but anyway... ;D
I have to deflate the OEM rear tire to get it between the swing arm, and even then it is a real tight fit. Snags on the protrusions for the cush drive.
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I have to deflate the OEM rear tire to get it between the swing arm, and even then it is a real tight fit. Snags on the protrusions for the cush drive.
Front swing arm ??? ;D
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Front swing arm ??? ;D
Doesn't yours have one? ??? :o ;)
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Doesn't yours have one? ??? :o ;)
Not that I remember but I'll have a close look when she's unpacked from the winter hibernation. They might even have grown during winter. The excitement is unbearable! ;D
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I wouldn't worry about it too much, the individual parts aren't too pricey. The Breva wheels are the hardest/most expensive parts to find. Plus, it's a one time purchase... and then you get 17" tires forever! ;-T Should make your V7 handle great, the Breva turns in really well...
-Joe
Harper's has the axles for about $28 for the pair plus shipping-not bad at all. I just hope they have them in the warehouse in the US, otherwise it's going to be a long wait.
Ken
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Hopefully only one last question here. I'm going to put right angle valve stems on the rims. Anybody know if the hole diameter is 8 or 10mm?
Ken
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Hopefully only one last question here. I'm going to put right angle valve stems on the rims. Anybody know if the hole diameter is 8 or 10mm?
Ken
I just checked my small block parts box. It looks like I used the Breva rear axle/spacers and the V7R front axle w/ homemade spacer. Not sure of the spacer combination but since you have spacers for both sets of wheels you'll be fine.
If you need a spacer for the front wheel here's what I did. I used a piece of 3/4" black sch 40 pipe and a 3/4" washer. Internal diameter was perfect but the outside had to be turned down to fit in the dust seal. All I did was cut the spacer to length made a simple arbor out of a 3/8" x 6" stove bolt, 3/8" nut & washer. Chucked it in the cordless drill and ran it against the belt sander until the OD fit nicely into the dust seal. Painted the spacer black and installed. The washer goes against the fork leg and keep the spacer from digging into it. Basically the same reason your spacers are "T" shaped. If you are not comfortable doing this let me know how long the spacer needs to be and I'll make you one. I can also powder coat it now. I think the total length for my spacer end to end including the washers was 5/8".
You can also skip the right angle stems. With only one disc on the front the valve stem is wide open on the left side. The rear valve stem is also accessible. Go to NAPA and get a 4 pack of 1-1/4" .453 snap in stems for $2.19. NAPA part # 90-413.
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I just checked my small block parts box. It looks like I used the Breva rear axle/spacers and the V7R front axle w/ homemade spacer. Not sure of the spacer combination but since you have spacers for both sets of wheels you'll be fine.
If you need a spacer for the front wheel here's what I did. I used a piece of 3/4" black sch 40 pipe and a 3/4" washer. Internal diameter was perfect but the outside had to be turned down to fit in the dust seal. All I did was cut the spacer to length made a simple arbor out of a 3/8" x 6" stove bolt, 3/8" nut & washer. Chucked it in the cordless drill and ran it against the belt sander until the OD fit nicely into the dust seal. Painted the spacer black and installed. The washer goes against the fork leg and keep the spacer from digging into it. Basically the same reason your spacers are "T" shaped. If you are not comfortable doing this let me know how long the spacer needs to be and I'll make you one. I can also powder coat it now. I think the total length for my spacer end to end including the washers was 5/8".
You can also skip the right angle stems. With only one disc on the front the valve stem is wide open on the left side. The rear valve stem is also accessible. Go to NAPA and get a 4 pack of 1-1/4" .453 snap in stems for $2.19. NAPA part # 90-413.
Thanks for the info! My wheels should be in on Tuesday, and they're going straight to my painter. I'm busy all next week, so I won't have time to install them for about 2 weeks. After having 3 tube flats last year, I'm very happy to put the cast wheels on.
Ken
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:bike
Thanks for the info! My wheels should be in on Tuesday, and they're going straight to my painter. I'm busy all next week, so I won't have time to install them for about 2 weeks. After having 3 tube flats last year, I'm very happy to put the cast wheels on.
Ken
Skip the painter and take them to a powder coater.
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:bike
Skip the painter and take them to a powder coater.
Sorry, my painter is free (barter system) and the powder coater is $210 with the friend discount. I'm trying to get this done on the cheap.
Ken
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Sorry, my painter is free (barter system) and the powder coater is $210 with the friend discount. I'm trying to get this done on the cheap.
Ken
Wow I went to a shop on the recommendation of a co-worker. The powder coater charged me $120 for blast cleaning both wheels, black powder base and semi gloss clear top coat. Turnaround 36 hrs. I did have the bearings pulled and rotors removed.
Check around for a better deal on a powder coater.
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I would do that in a minute if I could find that price locally. The few places around here average $125/wheel.
I was wrestling with the idea of spending that much, but once I added up the costs of powder coating and the wheels, I might have well spent the extra money for the Stone wheels and been done with it.
Ken
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I would do that in a minute if I could find that price locally. The few places around here average $125/wheel.
I was wrestling with the idea of spending that much, but once I added up the costs of powder coating and the wheels, I might have well spent the extra money for the Stone wheels and been done with it.
Ken
Yeah but the Stone front wheel will always be an 18" wheel where the Breva 750 is a 17". The 17" front wheel is where the magic is and the 3 spoke cast wheels look great. Another word of advise is before you get the wheels finished is fit them to the bike 1st. Getting the spacers right may take several attempts. Each time you remove/reposition the wheels the risk of scratching goes up.
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Picking up my wheels from my painter tomorrow. I noticed he painted the inside of the wheels as well. Do I need to sand them down on the inside for a proper seal?
Ken
(http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll83/ksiegel7/2009%20V7%20Classic/V7CWheels_zps7beb695d.jpg) (http://s286.photobucket.com/user/ksiegel7/media/2009%20V7%20Classic/V7CWheels_zps7beb695d.jpg.html)
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Do I need to sand them down on the inside for a proper seal?
Nope just install the new tires.
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You can try Pin Wall Cycle for the B750 axles........when I swapped my 2009 spokes for guzzi mags it was a straight swap.
Tim
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You can try Pin Wall Cycle for the B750 axles........when I swapped my 2009 spokes for guzzi mags it was a straight swap.
Tim
I got axles and spacers from Harper's. Under $50 for everything, and received them in about a week-what a bunch of great guys! They even had me in their computer system from a transaction with them in 1993.
Tim, can I see a pic of mags on your bike?
Ken
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Done with the conversion on my 2009 V7C. The only weird thing that I noticed is that there is a 1/4" gap between the final drive and the wheel hub. I took off the final drive to double check the gap, and it's as close as it gets. The hub on the standard V7 spoked wheel has more of a shroud on it so that there is almost no gap. Anybody think there will be an issue with this? The plus side is that the wheel is much easier to get on now.
Ken
(http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll83/ksiegel7/2009%20V7%20Classic/Image2_zpsa28dddc3.jpg) (http://s286.photobucket.com/user/ksiegel7/media/2009%20V7%20Classic/Image2_zpsa28dddc3.jpg.html)
The wheels are not as shiny as I'd hoped, but I should be able to polish them a bit. I also need to find a front fender for a 17" wheel, or find a better spacer for the existing fender.
(http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll83/ksiegel7/2009%20V7%20Classic/Image1_zps8aada762.jpg) (http://s286.photobucket.com/user/ksiegel7/media/2009%20V7%20Classic/Image1_zps8aada762.jpg.html)
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As for the fender you will find that you actually have to shorten 4 spots on the aluminum fender mounting bracket to lower the fender. I was keeping an eye out for a used one bit have gotten used to it and it fell off the priority list.
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As for the fender you will find that you actually have to shorten 4 spots on the aluminum fender mounting bracket to lower the fender. I was keeping an eye out for a used one bit have gotten used to it and it fell off the priority list.
I picked up a new fork brace from Harper's for about $35 http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/2000-up-moto-guzzi-motorcycles/v7-classic-750-2008-2012/front-body-front-mudguard-en-v7-classic-750-2008-2012-en.html
I shaved off 5/8" of each mounting post, but there's still a large gap between the wheel and fender (18" fender on 17" wheel), so I think it still looks goofy. You can't put spacers in between the brace and the fender to lower it further as the holes won't line up.
I did find a 17" 4.5"W x19"L alloy fender from a local shop. He will make just about any size. He quoted me $97 shipped, but I think I may be able to save on shipping, as his shop is 2 miles away from where I work. I've heard there's a very long lead time, so if you need one, order soon. They're not polished or painted, so that's on me.
http://www.7metalwest.com/motorcycle_parts.html
Ken
Here's the trimmed down version of the fork brace. Uncut version is on the left side:
(http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll83/ksiegel7/2009%20V7%20Classic/Image2_zps937456ea.jpg) (http://s286.photobucket.com/user/ksiegel7/media/2009%20V7%20Classic/Image2_zps937456ea.jpg.html)
Still a large gap between the wheel and fender:
(http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll83/ksiegel7/2009%20V7%20Classic/Image4_zps5317d5b0.jpg) (http://s286.photobucket.com/user/ksiegel7/media/2009%20V7%20Classic/Image4_zps5317d5b0.jpg.html)
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You could do a wrap with some electrical tape to cover the gap on that hub. Or with some other sticky product tape type product. Even some of that stick on Velcro wrap would work. Or just paint the cush drive flat black which would make it less noticeable.
Actually, I fixed the hub issue (forgot to update it). I had the wrong spacer in place. It's a tight fit now.
Ken
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Actually, I fixed the hub issue (forgot to update it). I had the wrong spacer in place. It's a tight fit now.
Ken
I was just getting ready to post that suggestion!
Great conversion! :bike
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I put a 16" front rim(vs. 18") on my CX100 and don't mind the fender gap, since when I ride over newly gravel/tarred pavement there will be more room for the gravel flying off. :BEER:
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Usually I ride 2 up with full touring set up.
The Pirelli Sport Demon rear usually lasts around 7000 miles.
Metzler Lazertech again around 7000 miles.
Metzler Tourance around 9000 miles
Best for me, are the
Michelin Pilot Activ's, they are just as sticky as the Sport Demons, wet or dry but the dual compound = 14000 + on the Rear
Ok on my overloaded 750, I am not at extreme lean at any point.
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I did remove the gap between the wheel and fender with the help of a Breva 750 fork brace, and an aluminum fender from 7 moto west http://www.7metalwest.com Here it is before painting. Keep in mind that the Breva fork brace needs to be raised appox. 3/8" to clear the wheel, and currently I'm using some large nuts for the spacers. I also used T-nuts on the bottom of the fender, and I'd like to permanently install them (either spot weld or JB weld) so that there's no chance of them falling out.
The cool thing is that these fenders are custom made about a mile from where I work. This hand made fender was under $90 delivered to me. It could be left how it is (or polished with minimal effort), but I'm going to paint it black so that it blends in better. You may also have noticed that I put silver pin striping over the factory red on the fuel tank and side panels.
Ken
fender on bike:
(http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll83/ksiegel7/2009%20V7%20Classic/V70318-2_zps34wcjeum.jpg) (http://s286.photobucket.com/user/ksiegel7/media/2009%20V7%20Classic/V70318-2_zps34wcjeum.jpg.html)
front view:
(http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll83/ksiegel7/2009%20V7%20Classic/V70318-3_zpssbycaq9b.jpg) (http://s286.photobucket.com/user/ksiegel7/media/2009%20V7%20Classic/V70318-3_zpssbycaq9b.jpg.html)
close up of Breva 750 brace:
(http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll83/ksiegel7/2009%20V7%20Classic/V70318-4_zpsuvep254i.jpg) (http://s286.photobucket.com/user/ksiegel7/media/2009%20V7%20Classic/V70318-4_zpsuvep254i.jpg.html)
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Brea wheels are for sale, if anybody's interested. http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=87752.0
Ken