Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: hardcoreharryjr on October 01, 2014, 05:52:27 PM
-
Hey All,
I have a stuck generator rotor. I have followed the manual and inserted a pin then tried screwing in the original bolt to pop the rotor off. The rotor is on so hard that I can't get it off. I have tried doing the bolt up about as hard as I would like (i am concerned Ill strip the threads). I did bend the original bolt hand had to machine down a 12.9 new one. I have damaged the threads on that bolt so am looking for help!
Has anyone got this off? How?
I was trying to get into do a quick check the gap on the electronic ignition. 2 weeks later and the bastard is still on tight.
Cheers
-
Did you try giving the bolt a whack with a good size persuader?
-
I dont think that will work. It looks like the generator fits on to the shaft with a taper. The shaft is threaded and the bolt secures it. To get it of you put in a pin and there is a threaded hole in the rotor. You are supposed to tighten the the bolt in the rotor threaded hole against the pin and pop the rotor of the shaft....Only that doesn't work.
If I hit while the bolt is in the rotor I will only push it on more.
At least that is how I understand it. Anyone who knows more please say so. Thanks.
-
if you mean the alternator GET THE RIGHT TOOL! and you won't bugger it beyond repair. it's about 10 bucks. MGcycle or Harpers.
-
Fotoguzzi has a point of course, but the whack-the-bolt method is the accepted way we get stuck rotors off the Kaw triples, even when using the correct tool. The play in the threads is taken out on one direction when you tighten the bolt. Whacking its head makes the threads tend to move in the direction to take the play out the other way, and shocks the crankshaft a little, in the direction that helps get the taper unstuck.
-
^^^^^ approved method. Tighten the bolt down till it's snug and pop it on the end with a ballpeen hammer. Have your other hand underneath to catch it as it flies off.
-
Another vote for percussive persuasion.
Phil
-
Don't hit the bolt. Hit the rotor sideways with a hammer and a piece of aluminum. It will pop right off. Use a 16 oz. hammer and hit it with a medium swing.
-
I'd hit the bolt with my big copper hammer first. Snug it up some more. Hit it again. No luck? Then, I'd hit the rotor sideways as a last resort. I'll bet a buck that hitting the end of the bolt does it, though. ;D It's a holding taper, and it takes shock to break a holding taper loose.
-
OT - Hey Chuck there's a ride shaping up for Sunday if you're gonna be in town, check GT, now back to big hammers. :bike
-
Righto, first thing when I get home from work the hammer comes out. Always a last resort for me but Ill give it a go. Tool cost $100 from Harpers (14926600). Based of the manual it's just a pin. I used the end of a dead 6mm HSS drill bit after measuring the hold depth with callipers. In this case the home made tool is just as good as a store brought.
Thanks for the help. See how it goes.
-
FWIW, I needed the "proper" tool one weekend and didn't have the time to order it, so I made a pin out of an extra drill bit I had that was the right diameter (1/4" IIRC.)
I cut the shank at the end of the flutes and ground a slight bevel on the cut end.
-
Tool cost $100 from Harpers (14926600).
really? I'd go to MG $11.18
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=1632
-
OT - Hey Chuck there's a ride shaping up for Sunday if you're gonna be in town, check GT, now back to big hammers. :bike
Thanks, will do..
-
The tool in question at Harper's is about ten bucks.
-
Greasing the bolt helps.
-
I purchased mine from Harpers. BMW also has the same set up. The right tool includes a hammer. Mine is brass. Works every time. ;-T :BEER:
Matt
-
Just to clarify - take out the bolt and insert pin, insert bolt and tighten, smack the end of the bolt sharply with hammer, rotor should pop off. If not, tighten bolt a little more and try again, maybe hit a little harder. All you are doing is putting tension on the rotor and then shocking it loose. Tried and tested, seldom fails.
-
Just to clarify - take out the bolt and insert pin, insert bolt and tighten, smack the end of the bolt sharply with hammer, rotor should pop off. If not, tighten bolt a little more and try again, maybe hit a little harder. All you are doing is putting tension on the rotor and then shocking it loose. Tried and tested, seldom fails.
This is how a taper works. You don't grease it, it works in microns of deformity making the outer taper *Grab* on the inner. Shock should get it loose. If it doesn't you can buy a grease nipple with the right thread and hydraulic the bastard off with a powerful grease gun but in forty years I've only had to do that once and that was on a bike that was owned by a moron who lived next to the beach who had left his engine sitting in the sea breeze and salt spray for two years with the alternator cover and stator off. It was pointless anyway as the engine was completely Donald Ducked and unsalveageable.
Pete
-
Hammer, bolt & pin works for me. Don't use anything that will bend for pin - I use cut down hex key.
As said above: GET READY TO CATCH ROTOR - it'll pop right off & hit the floor if you're not ready for it.
-
Correct tool is 14906600 $13.36
http://www.harpermoto.com/?subcats=Y&status=A&pshort=N&pfull=N&pname=Y&pkeywords=Y&search_performed=Y&q=14906600&dispatch=products.search
-
" Righto, first thing when I get home from work the hammer comes out. "
A guy that was one of my early mechanical mentors made a habit of getting a hammer out and laying it next to the machine no matter what he was doing. He said " It's just there to remind the machine that I mean business, and I'm willing to use it if I have to ".
-
Use a HSS drill bit...hit the rotor sideways...jeez, thank god I'm an aviation engineer and know better.
:+1 for hit the bolt head method, works every time.
-
Got it off. Thanks for the help. It shoot off about half a meter, very impressive!
Not that it matters a whole lot but I'm still confused on the "correct tool" all the V50II manuals (http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/workshop_manual_v35_v50_en.pdf page 23) I can find ask for Tool 14 92 66 00 (http://www.harpermoto.com/tool-14926600.html). Not sure why there would be two part numbers for the same tool. I think that the length on the two tools may be different. My bike is a V50II and has electronic ignition. Most other bikes have points. The tool I made up was 35mm, anyone know the length of 14906600?
Also confused about the $100 listing on Harpers for tool 14 90 66 00? Wish the manuals had the 14906600 tool listed. I would have purchased it in a heart beat
Correct tool is 14906600 $13.36
http://www.harpermoto.com/?subcats=Y&status=A&pshort=N&pfull=N&pname=Y&pkeywords=Y&search_performed=Y&q=14906600&dispatch=products.search
-
If anyone gets stuck here again, I have a tool to loan. Just ask. I took an original rotor bolt and butt welded it to a proper sized stout SAE bolt that fits into my slaphammer tool. You'll have to remove the front wheel and fender so you can reach between the forks, but this tool is designed to 'yank' the rotor off the nose of the crank. I had to make this to rescue someone who had used a soft bolt as a removal tool and collapsed that bolt into the nose of the crank. No way to follow up with the proper tool.
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t61/pehayes/tool/MVC-187L_zpsfbcb6bd5.jpg)
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
-
:+1 I like that.
If anyone gets stuck here again, I have a tool to loan. Just ask. I took an original rotor bolt and butt welded it to a proper sized stout SAE bolt that fits into my slaphammer tool. You'll have to remove the front wheel and fender so you can reach between the forks, but this tool is designed to 'yank' the rotor off the nose of the crank. I had to make this to rescue someone who had used a soft bolt as a removal tool and collapsed that bolt into the nose of the crank. No way to follow up with the proper tool.
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t61/pehayes/tool/MVC-187L_zpsfbcb6bd5.jpg)
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
-
Hey guys, I had an issue with charging so narrowed it down to the rotor using the resistance across the bands. I went to take the rotor off and the bolt sheared off somewhere in between the back threads of the rotor and where it threads into crankshaft I think. So even though I have the correct pin, it is too long since it backs against the remaining piece of bolt still stuck in there.
Bottom line, I need to borrow the tool you made above to use with the slap hammer. If I give you my address could you send it? I'll pay for shipping.
Thanks.
V50 II
-
See your "personal messages".
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA