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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Rich M on November 26, 2014, 09:06:19 AM
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Happy Thanksgiving everyone...
It's been along time since I posted on the forum and glad to be back ;-T
I'm having some problems with my 2003 California Titanium with 7500 miles on it, and need some assistance....
1.) Seems the the neutral light is intermittent and can not pin point the issue..
2.) Had the trickle charger hooked up for the past couple of months, turned the key on, turned the switch on and nothing..although I have power.. The fuel pump would engage when I turned the red start switch on..but now nothing at all..
Any guidance and or assistance would be greatly appreciated...
All the Best!
Rich
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Check your battery cables. Clean and tighten. Test your battery.
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Happy Thanksgiving everyone...
It's been along time since I posted on the forum and glad to be back ;-T
I'm having some problems with my 2003 California Titanium with 7500 miles on it, and need some assistance....
1.) Seems the the neutral light is intermittent and can not pin point the issue..
2.) Had the trickle charger hooked up for the past couple of months, turned the key on, turned the switch on and nothing..although I have power.. The fuel pump would engage when I turned the red start switch on..but now nothing at all..
Any guidance and or assistance would be greatly appreciated...
All the Best!
Rich
#2 is most likely a bad battery connection. Take both terminals off the battery, clean them up good, and reinstall. You've had an oxide film form that will pass low current like a trickle charger or lights but won't pass current for the starter .....
Lannis
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1.) Seems the the neutral light is intermittent and can not pin point the issue..
Did you pull the neutral (grounding) switch from the gearbox? You might need to bend the tab.
Rich A
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Check your battery cables. Clean and tighten. Test your battery.
Thanks for the quick reply...
Just got back from the garage and everything seems fine..with the battery..
Any other thoughts?
Thanks again....
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#2 is most likely a bad battery connection. Take both terminals off the battery, clean them up good, and reinstall. You've had an oxide film form that will pass low current like a trickle charger or lights but won't pass current for the starter .....
Lannis
Thanks Lannis....
Did you pull the neutral (grounding) switch from the gearbox? You might need to bend the tab.
Rich A
Thanks Rich..
Interesting..and need to locate exactly where the location of that switch is..Could you please guide this newbie to its general location?
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if you did not load test the battery you don't really know "everything seems fine".
I would never let a battery sit on trickle charge for months.
neutral switch is behind the starter.
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if you did not load test the battery you don't really know "everything seems fine".
I would never let a battery sit on trickle charge for months.
neutral switch is behind the starter.
Thanks...
Any particular reason that you would not leave a battery on trickle charge for an extended period of time? I have done so on other motorcycles for the past 30 years with no ill effect...
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It really depends on the specific charger and how it behaves long term. I have a couple that won't hurt a battery if left on for months, but not all are like that.
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Any particular reason that you would not leave a battery on trickle charge for an extended period of time? I have done so on other motorcycles for the past 30 years with no ill effect...
Because a good battery doesn't need it ?
My bikes can sit for months, sometimes, and they always start right up...
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Did you pull the neutral (grounding) switch from the gearbox? You might need to bend the tab.
The 2003 is likely NOT of this style design.
Starting in 2003, most of the Tonti bikes got a new style of neutral switch. Is actually is fairly accurate, unlike the older style copper TAB that can get bent.
But, the new style switch can go bad easily if it get a little crud in it. It also has a push on spade terminal that can easily loosen up, unlike the old style which had the nut that you had to tighten down.
If the terminal is pressed on tight on the outside (it is located behind the starter). Then you may need to pull it out and clean the spring loaded plunger.
As for the electrical problem, load test the battery. Your charger may have cooked it dry. Particularly if it was a Battery Tender brand. They occasionally do that.
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The 2003 is likely NOT of this style design.
Starting in 2003, most of the Tonti bikes got a new style of neutral switch. Is actually is fairly accurate, unlike the older style copper TAB that can get bent.
But, the new style switch can go bad easily if it get a little crud in it. It also has a push on spade terminal that can easily loosen up, unlike the old style which had the nut that you had to tighten down.
If the terminal is pressed on tight on the outside (it is located behind the starter). Then you may need to pull it out and clean the spring loaded plunger.
As for the electrical problem, load test the battery. Your charger may have cooked it dry. Particularly if it was a Battery Tender brand. They occasionally do that.
Thanks for the details behind the switch and will check it once the snow stops in the Lower Hudson valley :)
It is indeed a Battery Tender brand that's connected to an Odyssey Dry cell..
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Because a good battery doesn't need it ?
My bikes can sit for months, sometimes, and they always start right up...
I agree with this. I average half a dozen bikes in the garage and some do not get used in the winter months (3 or 4 months storage).
What I have found works for me. My older first year Thruxton and 1st gen KLRs have no LEDs or clock to put a slight drain on the battery over time. The battery in them will keep it's charge for months without any ill effects. I will check them about once a month and put a 6 amp "automatic smart" charger on for an hour if any drops below 12.5 volts, just to top off. The FI and clock, anti-theft stuff bikes, such as the little Breva and CBR, with a constant small battery drain get checked more often and if neglected, the batteries will show a discharge more frequently. Again, I do a 6 amp charge until the batteries are topped up at least once a month on them. If I wasn't so lazy, I would disconnect all the batteries on the bike that won't get used over the winter! Note, I coat the batter terminals (inside and out) with Vaseline, as has been recommended by experienced guys, and rarely have corrosion issues with them. Also check my 2008 year model truck battery and do the same with it, as it sometimes sets for a month without be driven in the summer months! Winter, the truck gets used more often because chance of ice or the hassle of gearing up causes it's use to be more regular.
The bikes that get used regularly all winter, I just ride.
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Yeah. Most of my Guzzis haven't had clocks, anti-theft, etc. to drain batteries. My Sport 1100 has sat six months at a time with no troubles starting.
I did have a Triumph Sprint Executive with a clock that would drain the battery in a few weeks, but that's been the only bike I've had that would do that.
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It is indeed a Battery Tender brand that's connected to an Odyssey Dry cell..
From what I've read here, that is a particularly bad combination. My Odyssey (in California) sat without a tender for 10 months this year, and started the bike without issue. I have three of them and *never* leave them on a tender. As I understand it, leaving a battery tender hooked up can kill it. I know I killed a deep cycle battery with one.
Better load test that battery before saying it's good..
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From what I've read here, that is a particularly bad combination. My Odyssey (in California) sat without a tender for 10 months this year, and started the bike without issue. I have three of them and *never* leave them on a tender. As I understand it, leaving a battery tender hooked up can kill it. I know I killed a deep cycle battery with one.
Better load test that battery before saying it's good..
Very good information here...and Thanks...
Load tested as everyone recommended..ant indeed its shot....
Time to order another Odyssey PC925L...I've also read places that I could use a Odyssey PC680...Would anyone know if it's confirmed??
Going to start checking out the neutral switch issue today..and am glad that I installed a center stand...years ago.. Know that it's located behind the starter, somewhere, but being a newbie, could someone pinpoint the exact location for me please...
All the best!
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Very good information here...and Thanks...
Load tested as everyone recommended..ant indeed its shot....
Time to order another Odyssey PC925L...I've also read places that I could use a Odyssey PC680...Would anyone know if it's confirmed??
Going to start checking out the neutral switch issue today..and am glad that I installed a center stand...years ago.. Know that it's located behind the starter, somewhere, but being a newbie, could someone pinpoint the exact location for me please...
All the best!
FWIW, I have one in my '98 HDM. Quite fine.
More? The search function says three pages address that battery.
See, e.g., http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=67163.0
Bill
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yes you can use the 625.
as to the N switch location, I don't have a pic but it's hard to miss.. the only wire going into the transmission (spade connector), it's on left side near top of Tranny housing.. I think you can see it without pulling the starter off.
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I had a no start issue just the other day- and i also noticed tha tthe neutral light was not on- even though i could roll the bike. I clicked the shifter down half a notch- bike still free wheeled, but this time, the green light clicked "on". Guess what- the bike started right up. Give it a shot.
BTW, I bought an AGM battery down the street at Autozone. Easier than mailing one. Seems to be fine.
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All,
Interesting thread on batteries and bikes unstarted and tenders. Little Goose will sit until after Christmas. I bet it will start just fine after resting a month.
Moderate temperatures in the garage help as this is south Texas. Living in Alaska I had to keep my Toyota truck on a tender winter months due to extremes of temperatures, etc. Wyoming was even worse with VW sitting outside in extremes (-25F) resulting in frozen everything. My old 84 Corvette for some reason would drain batteries, think it was the security system slow take?
Body is healing nicely, feeling a lot better, but I will be a good boy on the hernia recuperation and due what sawbones says.
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All,
Interesting thread on batteries and bikes unstarted and tenders. Little Goose will sit until after Christmas. I bet it will start just fine after resting a month.
Moderate temperatures in the garage help as this is south Texas. Living in Alaska I had to keep my Toyota truck on a tender winter months due to extremes of temperatures, etc. Wyoming was even worse with VW sitting outside in extremes (-25F) resulting in frozen everything. My old 84 Corvette for some reason would drain batteries, think it was the security system slow take?
Body is healing nicely, feeling a lot better, but I will be a good boy on the hernia recuperation and due what sawbones says.
Perhaps a trickle charger might help there, too. ;D
OBTW, bored one day, after my second and awaiting my third such cutting, I happened to google around and found a website where people talked -- and whined even more -- about their impending or just completed hernia ops.
One guy said his wife told him that he was just a wuss and gave him that "you should try childbirth" mantra some people (spousal units, in particular) love to trot out. :beat_horse
Well, I'll be darned, several women jumped in and said they thought their own hernia surgeries were WAY worse than childbirth. :o
I showed that to Kathi who was, I have to admit, singularly unimpressed, but perhaps you'll have better luck with yours when the drugs run out. ;)
Bill
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Bill said:
I showed that to Kathi who was, I have to admit, singularly unimpressed, but perhaps you'll have better luck with yours when the drugs run out
Women are tougher than I. All three of mine are home right now. My wife went thru ovarian cancer surgery years ago, and knows what a "core" type surgery feels like. So, she was remarkably patient with me and kind. Yep pain first couple days getting up/down was pretty knife-like. I am one lucky guy all in all. Daughters were similarly sympathetic when around, or not drinking, etc. Youngest told me I should get a used Porsche though....collapsin g oil prices and hence stock values may negate that idea....
The tough part will be getting restless and impatient to ride the bike. I decided to build some models starting with my Weird-Ohs "Davey" then a long stored Stuka aircraft.
Going back to work Monday will be tough as I have two projects converging and spewing out data. I will pace myself though. Body is still a bit low energy.
Eldest wants one more blast of Tex Mex tonight before flying back to New Yarrrk Citttty....tomorrow .
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Hello everyone....
Had the chance to spend a few hours in the garage this afternoon trying to get the motorcycle running but to no avail...
Put a brand new Odyssey battery in after cleaning all the terminals with a wire brush, turned the ignition on, and absolutely nothing... Checked all the fuses, and all were good... The neutral switch should be here from Harpers tomorrow...
Funny thing though...After fiddling around with the directional controls back and fourth, heard the pump engage for a second our two..and then nothing at all.. Very strange ???
Really do not know what to do after replacing the neutral switch tomorrow...and hope I did not fry anything while on trickle charge over the winter...
Any ideas and/or thoughts would be greatly appreciated ;-T
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kill switch? sidestand switch?
did you get ALL the wires connected to the battery?
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first thing I do is replace all of the 5 prong relays with new ones on all new to me Guzzi's. but you can disconnect the battery, pull them all, spray everything with electrical contact cleaner, clean their contacts with a small wire brush and move them all over one notch. BUT!!! before you do make sure they are all 5 prong. you can't use a 4 where a 5 is needed. years ago Radio sold them cheap and a guy on this site did too. you will find they and the fuses are corroded. You can usually steal one from your car or truck for test proposes if you know where to look.
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kill switch? sidestand switch?
did you get ALL the wires connected to the battery?
Side stand switch is OK..and all wires connected...Thanks!
As to the kill switch, have not checked that, nor have I ever used..I've always left in on and just turned the ignition on, then staterd... Any guidance on it???
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first thing I do is replace all of the 5 prong relays with new ones on all new to me Guzzi's. but you can disconnect the battery, pull them all, spray everything with electrical contact cleaner, clean their contacts with a small wire brush and move them all over one notch. BUT!!! before you do make sure they are all 5 prong. you can't use a 4 where a 5 is needed. years ago Radio sold them cheap and a guy on this site did too. you will find they and the fuses are corroded. You can usually steal one from your car or truck for test proposes if you know where to look.
Being a newbie in the art of Moto Guzzi mechanics...Were exactly would I find the locations of these relays?
I've read several threads on the suspect OEM ones, and will replace them all..Can I purchase through any auto parts store, or would I need to order them elsewhere?? Much Thanks!
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relays are in with the fuse block, under right side cover. any 5 pin automotive relay works.. order from a Guzzi guy, dpguzzi.com
I just meant the kill switch coulda been bumped so check that.. Ignition switch could be another spot to check but someone else can advise on that.
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^^^^^^^^^^^
Thank you kindly....
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Here's a couple of simple tests to check out the battery & connections
Attach the negative lead of your Voltmeter to a good chassis connection like under a bolt head, you need a reliable connection because your hands will be busy.
Positive probe directly on the Positive post (not the bolts or lugs), it should read 12+ Volts. if not let us know.
A/ While holding the probe on turn key on press start, it should keep reading at least 10 Volts.
If it drops down to zero
B/ Move the Positive lead to the Negative battery post, jab it into the metal to get a good connection, key On, press Start
It should keep reading ~zero, If it gives a reading you have a bad ground connection.
C/ If the Voltage in step A stayed at 12+ but nothing happened move the positive lead to the wire attached to the Positive post and try again
D/ Locate the fuses, jab the positive lead into each one (usually you can see a tiny bit of metal ecposed at the top) what do you see on each one, which ones are alive with the key Off, which ones with the key On, write it down and get back.
Question to anyone
Which of Carl's schematics are close?
Roy
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Before you start spending money on stuff, take your volt meter and assure the juice is getting where it needs to go. Also, did you check and clean the other end of the battery cables, positive on the starter solenoid and the ground. I have had problems with the ground before on my 02, you can also just swap your relays around, that will usually show if one is bad. Never had one go bad on a Cali, but on my V11 Lemans, they were a problem
Cheers
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Thanks for the guidance Kiwi_Roy and father guzzi obrian....Its appreciated....
Getting back to the relays.. They are all the same type of relays in the block, correct? I've been searching the web and have found cross reference numbers..and will go to a local auto parts store in the morning..if positive results are found as per the above advice... Want to see if this solves the problem..and if not, will order from one of the Guzzi guy's.....
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There are two types, 4 pin and 5 pin.
The 5 pin variety can be used in every slot.
The 4 pin in every slot but the start position, which type do you have?
I'm not sure about the fuse layout on an 02 but you can use this as an example, on my 98 EV they are under the RH side cover.
Father Guzzi Obrian, can you shed some light on the location / suitable Carl Allison drawing?
(http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/Kiwi_Roy/EV%20Wiring/EVFuseRelayLayout_zps74d7d55c.jpg)
The 2 fuses that feed the ECU should be alive at all times, sometimes the other fuses are through the ignition switch but either way
All fuses should be alive when the ignition switch is On
Fotoguzzi asked "Do you have all the wires on" there might be as many as 3 reds besides the large wire to the starter.
Looking at the relay bases the top pin numbered 30 should be alive, the ECU relays at all times, the others when the key is turned On
Your relays may be in a different order but you will have the same basic ones.
Report back with as much information as you can and we will soon have you on the road.
Do you have a multimeter for measuring the Voltage, if not get some sort of 12 Volt lamp with wires attached.
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Really appreciate all the assistance...and much obliged....
At the plant today and will not get out until early this evening...Will follow advice and tips Sunday moring, then report outcome....
Much Thanks agian eveyone...This is an awesome forum to belong to ;-T
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Been looking on line at a lot of schematics pertaining to the 2003 California Titanium... If I'm correct, there are only three (3) Minirelay switches for lights, injection and ECU.. Correct?
Sorry for being a bother.. but am really getting frustrated at this point in time, and know that it's a learning phase for me..
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Most have 5
Start Relay (22), usually a 5 pin
Headlight Relay (21)
Sidestand / Neutral Relay (33) on this schematic they use it for heated grips, that's very unusual
ECU Relay (51)
ECU Power relay (50)
This is what I'm basing it on, a 2004 EV
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_EV_Catalytic.gif
I think your problem is a lot more basic than relays, to get the bike running we only need 3 so don't worry about getting them yet.
If you can get a good charge in the battery to start with we should be good.
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Most have 5
Start Relay (22), usually a 5 pin
Headlight Relay (21)
Sidestand / Neutral Relay (33) on this schematic they use it for heated grips, that's very unusual
ECU Relay (51)
ECU Power relay (50)
This is what I'm basing it on, a 2004 EV
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_EV_Catalytic.gif
I think your problem is a lot more basic than relays, to get the bike running we only need 3 so don't worry about getting them yet.
If you can get a good charge in the battery to start with we should be good.
Much obliged Roy.. Went home for lunch and put a charge on the new Odyssey battery to replace the old.. Just wanted to cover all the bases because I'm not leaving the garage until it starts...
All the Best and enjoy the weekend..
Rich
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It wouldn't hurt to take the side covers off ahead of time
I see photoguzzi said the relays and fuses are under the side cover
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Already done.. and awaiting activities in the morning
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Received the neutral switch today from Harpers, but does not look the same to me...
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/18/5f7478dced9c3f71c276f499062de7c3.jpg)
Hope I didn't screw up....
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Received the neutral switch today from Harpers, but does not look the same to me...
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/18/5f7478dced9c3f71c276f499062de7c3.jpg)
Hope I didn't screw up....
I don't know what the one in your bike looks like but that looks exactly like the one that I recently replaced in my V7 Classic. *I just looked up my receipt and that is the exact part number that I purchased. Both bikes may use the same one.........or they may not........but that IS definitely the switch that's used on my V7 small block. Check the parts diagram to confirm the part number.
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Yours anything like this, you will only see the left hand part?
Nothing to wear out there
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=55&products_id=2970
Lets sort out the electrical issues first
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Looks like the same part but in the factory parts site the part# listed is GU19207220. No supercession listed.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7676/16570597444_ac71997688_o.jpg)
Part umber 19.
Pete
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Apparently the bit of plastic and brass that rubbed on a wart protruding from the shift drum is no longer good enough :(
Good morning Rich
If you jump back up to reply #29 and check the basic battery connection, second thoughts I will copy it down to keep it together.
Here's a couple of simple tests to check out the battery & connections
Attach the negative lead of your Voltmeter to a good chassis connection like under a bolt head, you need a reliable connection because your hands will be busy.
Positive probe directly on the Positive post (not the bolts or lugs), it should read 12+ Volts. if not let us know.
A/ While holding the probe on turn key on press start, it should keep reading at least 10 Volts. we are actually checking the ground
If it drops down to zero
B/ Move the Positive lead to the Negative battery post, jab it into the metal to get a good connection, key On, press Start
It should keep reading ~zero, If it gives a reading you have a bad ground connection. If the ground is bad any load on the positive will pull it from 12 Volts to zero making the negative go to minus 12
C/ If the Voltage in step "A" stayed at 12+ but nothing happened move the positive lead to the wire attached to the Positive post and try again
D/ Locate the fuses, jab the positive lead into each one (usually you can see a tiny bit of metal ecposed at the top) what do you see on each one, which ones are alive with the key Off, which ones with the key On, write it down and get back. I am trying to figure out the fuse layout
Find out where the main ground connects to the chassis or hopefully the gearbox, remove it clean and replace with some grease to keep away the corrosion. For grease I prefer petroleum Jelly aka Vaseline
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There are two types, 4 pin and 5 pin.
The 5 pin variety can be used in every slot.
The 4 pin in every slot but the start position, which type do you have?
I'm not sure about the fuse layout on an 02 but you can use this as an example, on my 98 EV they are under the RH side cover.
(http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/Kiwi_Roy/EV%20Wiring/EVFuseRelayLayout_zps74d7d55c.jpg)
The 2 fuses that feed the ECU should be alive at all times, sometimes the other fuses are through the ignition switch but either way
All fuses should be alive when the ignition switch is On
Fotoguzzi asked "Do you have all the wires on" there might be as many as 3 reds besides the large wire to the starter.
Looking at the relay bases the top pin numbered 30 should be alive, the ECU relays at all times, the others when the key is turned On
If you pull all the relays out. looking at the sketch above you will see the top socket [30] of each relay is either alive from a fuse wired direct to the battery or it's livened up by one of the switches thru a fuse, 12 Volts on the relay 30 is typical of most if not all guzzis
Note down which relays are alive all the time and which ones are wired through a switch, this will help identify them.
Your relays may be in a different order but you will have the same basic ones.
If someone else has the same bike 2003 California Titanium please comment on the relay order, lets start at the rear moving towards the front
While you have the relays out you can do a couple of tests on them, referring to the sketch upper RH side you will see a pin layout. Taking your Ohmmeter you should get zero ohms between 30 & 87A, an open circuit between 30 & 87, 100 - 120 Ohms between the coil pins 85 & 86
If you apply 12 VDC across the coil you should hear it click and the contacts 30-87 will close, 30-87A open. Don't use the bike battery to supply this test Voltage, it packs a power of hurt. A small 9 Volt transistor battery or old wall wort is perfect for this.
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Thanks follow all your assistance Roy..it's really appreciated and I owe you a few pints to say the least...
Just got home from shopping and heading to the garage now... Will provide an update on the results...
Once again...Much Thanks!
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Don't have the multi meter since it's at my son's home and used a 12 volt test lamp.. All seems good....
Replaced all the fuses anyway.. and found that the 5 amp fuse that I'm pointing to below.. was not energized until I turned the ignition on..
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/19/99d4c29e36dac90db637e9bb493f4185.jpg)
Relay size is mixed between 4 pin and 5 pin..See the below from left to right:
5, 4, 5, 4 and 4
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/19/8cece6d10a578cb0c075724ff79f2843.jpg)
OH my god.... Your never going to believe this.... I took the starter cap off so I can take a look where the neutral switch was.. Wiggled the wire connection and for the hell of it, tryed start... Fuel pump engaged, pushed the start, and fired right up...
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/19/0c66b340f7af3c97041483dcba421189.jpg)
What a sequence of events! On the positive side: 1.) Learned how to electrical trouble shoot, 2.) Replaced all the fuses, 3.) Have a spare 5 pin relay, 4.) Since I have the switch, going to replace.
However, the most important thing to me, was how the Wildguzzi community came to my assistance, and how Roy went above and beyond to get me up and running.. Indepted to you Roy.. and much obliged everyone!
Have a good weekend and all the Best!
Rich M
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Just for anyone who owns a 2003 Titanium.. Here is the fuse layout from under the side cover..
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/19/d02d3542cee94341be3e291ee63f2110.jpg)
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That's great news, good pictures, I assume you found a red wire on the large solenoid post. they quite often tap off there to feed the ignition switch rather than at the battery.
This is a fairly normal process, guys are not confident to dive into the electrics, once started though they end up learning a lot and finding the fault themselves, I knew it was something very simple but I didn't expect that ;-T
Your Sparky ticket is in the mail.
The two relays on the right are for the ECU as are the two fuses between them.
One of the 2 5 pin relays is the Start relay
If you unplug them one at a time and try starting you will soon figure out which. Another way of telling is to look into the relay base. the start relay will have a connector in the middle of the 3 small holes closest to you.
One relay is the Headlight, pulling that one will turn the headlight off, but the Start relay will also, Guzzi like to turn the lights off while you are cranking
Who knows what the other one is, Side-stand, Horn perhaps. I would need the correct schematic to know that. If you have the owners manual could you scan or photograph the schematic for me.
You found out all you need is a test light, that's good, about the only thing it won't tell you is state of battery charge. A $5 meter will tell you that.
Make sure you find where the main ground connects and refresh that connection.
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shazamm! wasn't that cover a tricky piece to remove?
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Once again I echo my thanks to the members of this forum, and both fotoguzzi and Kiwi_Roy for their support and guidance...It was greatly appreciated... :bow
When I get to the plant in the morning, I'll scan the wiring diagram..and attach it to this thread...Hope it will help others if needed...
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I don't know about the switch being correct. Did yours test bad?
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I don't know about the switch being correct. Did yours test bad?
Neutral switch was not bad.. just the connection to it was loose... The part I purchased is identical to the OEM one installed..
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You found out all you need is a test light, that's good, about the only thing it won't tell you is state of battery charge. A $5 meter will tell you that.
Very true, but knowing the state of the battery charge won't help you any. We don't care (much) about the state of charge except theoretically; we care about the ability of the battery to supply current.
Only a battery load tester will tell you that ....
Lannis
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2003 wiring and fuse diagrams
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/204da8dca913a6f1c9cc9a2fab26b486.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/e847ee189dc5d65b7e5c66480fa81ffe.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/c8cfe05dd38f3f48318eea29935dec8a.jpg)
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^^^^^^^
Which may or may not have some basis in reality.. ;D