Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Mayor_of_BBQ on November 28, 2014, 11:31:16 PM
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Hi guys,
I've got a 1984 v65 that needs some attention. I posted a bit about it over the summer but couldn't ever get it running nicely.
The bike has had a full cosmetic resto, including a swap from v65sp to v65c tank & seat, a full satin black powder coat, hand worked side covers, fresh paint, etc. PO indicated they didn't open rear drive, engine, or tranny as it has run well and had lots of maintenance documentation.
The bike has about 27k on it and seems to have been well taken care of.
It ran well the first couple months I had it, but soon started acting up. It would start & run briefly but would then refuse to idle & died frequently. Waiting 10/15min it would restart but then not run much further.
After futzing around with the idle screws and other bits (big thanks to Chuck & kevdog who offered suggestions!) I never could get it to run for more than a few minutes.
I did a little thinking and realized my problems had nothing to do with idle or carb adjustment... My carbs are full of junk! Flashlight inspection of the fuel tank seemed to verify there could be some rust/crud issues.
I don't know much of anything about working on engines.. And deff not carbs! The only thing I know about carburetor sis that Daisy Duke has to assemble one blindfolded to win the 'Miss Hazzard' pageant.. What can I say, Daisy made a strong impression on the young Mayor.
So workspace or experience, or a knowledgeable person to help be damned! I'm going to fix this sucker if it takes all winter! I don't have a shop or even a workbench.. just hand tools, and I live in a little duplex; but I'm fairly handy and I worked as a bicycle mechanic for two years... what could go wrong? right?
So I chocked up the truck ramp on my front steps... terrified my 100lb girlfriend with instructions (she was on 'squeeze the front brake' duty) and pushed the sucker up on the deck and into the living room ;D
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/FCCEE46B-2CA3-488F-BB1C-96754F79F1EF_zpsnfyntcye.jpg)
Bachelor pad
SO my bike needs, and I hope you will help me with the following!
* Oil pressure Sending unit
* install tranny breather mod
* gotta pull the airbox to do that.. so..
* install pod filters & ditch airbox
* build a new crankcase breather system
* pull old rusty tank and replace
* swap the seat while yr at it
* rebuild carbs w/o rust in them & swap jets if needed for the pods
* figure out why the tach stopped working
* rear drive scnorr washer update mod
* drill rear drive oil passage mod
* trim the rear fender as needed to accommodate the new seat, and relocate signals/wiring so the rear wheel doesn't scrub the harness (a problem when riding 2up)
* shorten the clutch cable
If I get really crazy and somehow finish all that, i'll look at:
* replacing all the switchgear, throttle, and levers
* maybe change the dash if I've killed the tach
* install Lario lower frame rails (found on eBay) and move the pegs back
Here's the initial mock-up ;-T
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/9E2DF048-4C35-4172-B660-D046B3B67C50_zpsouj3mrfy.jpg)
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I got a used V7 tank and to my surprise.. It's fits pretty dang good!
The tank lacks all the fixtures, so first order of business is to get a gas cap on it and a block-off plate for the fuel pump hole
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/E181F73F-00AD-4D67-9465-ED33A95C7E47_zpsgyjztlle.jpg)
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/1B25E209-4771-4304-9985-DF4DC12FCC96_zpszkzxbxae.jpg)
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/9D8A3A1A-8EC2-459F-ACFA-F0CB405A24D8_zpsoxz3mfzt.jpg)
Yep! it's gonna work!
That hole will be filled with this cap ;D
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/5D26E4BE-40A4-4D59-BB54-3806F7A24130_zpsxkfjy1a5.jpg)
This is beyond my fabrication abilities, but now that I have my little template, I will be trying to figure out how to get my ring made!
In the meantime, if you have a nylon-tank V7 and have the fuel pump out.. would love a tracing of the base plate! ;-T
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did you know the airbox is a real SOB to get outta there? Yeah that may have been mentioned a time or two!
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/9A57D592-2A05-4C38-BFA1-B16BD72FDAE5_zpsocy2ongp.jpg)
I actually ordered all the parts & tore the bike down this far before I peeked in the carbs to confirm my diagnosis!
Luckily i think I guessed right :o
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/363D9CC8-9878-4CF0-866A-36EFB03523BB_zps9ayxnr5p.jpg)
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/49E56E24-AC9E-4705-9357-CAA5CB0DCC9D_zpspsjlus9s.jpg)
I know nothing about carbs.. just what I "learned" in intro to automotive tech in 9th grade...
I am going to use this write-up to tear down and rebuild the carbs: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_carburetor_rebuild_-__vhb.html
I know it's not exactly the same carb but this has got to be better than going in blind! Also, I can't find anything this in-depth on the PHBH carb but if anyone knows of something like this for the SB carbs, please post up a link!
I'm going to do the carbs start to finish, one at the time.. that way I can use one as the model while I rebuild the other.
I have no idea what jets in here, but GuzziSteve told me the apropos jetting for pods on a v65.. I guess we'll see what we need once I disassemble!
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Cool thread!
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Thanks kept! You & I can form the 'we don't need no stinkin workbench' club!
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The Transmission breather & oil pressure sending unit are straight bolt in & out
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/290A3BA3-D2CE-4FE3-928B-412D2C4C9B2D_zpsugtncpfc.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/290A3BA3-D2CE-4FE3-928B-412D2C4C9B2D_zpsugtncpfc.jpg.html)
I was warned not to turn the rear wheel while doing the sending unit.. The tip does something important!
As for the tyranny breather.. Why was this spring under the mushroom plug? Should it be installed under the barb fitting?
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/425F9DEC-2115-420F-8D78-74A80762BB23_zpswz5ncw9r.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/425F9DEC-2115-420F-8D78-74A80762BB23_zpswz5ncw9r.jpg.html)
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You need the spring under your vent, the plunger is still in the trans. It is your detent for the trans shifter drum. W/O it it don't click & stay.
Need a shop manual? http://www.guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/V35V50V65Atelier_041983%28GB%29.pdf
How is fuel coming out of the tank?
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into the living room
;D ;-T
Chad, one good turn deserves another. ;D I made a fuel pump block off plate for Rosie when I lined her tank.
http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=62087.0
*If it is the same*.. look in parts manuals and make sure it is the same part number.. I'll make one for you out of aluminum. Let me dig through my "good junk" pile and see if I have some. You'll also need that big hunker gasket to seal it.
I'll also make that filler neck part, but your cardboard template isn't good enough. I'll need a real one to get the geometry.
More than you probably want to know in the Lario rehab thread. A search will find it. I made a gizmo for nothing for the transmission vent, but IIRC, a big block vent will interchange.
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Impressive thread!
And, your girlfriend is a sport on several levels. Kathi is terrified to do the "help move" the Guzzis, but does it cheerfully with only occasional drama involving the laws of physics. ;D
Looking forward to the tales of your progress ... and the inevitable expletives or three. ;)
Best,
Bill
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did you know the airbox is a real SOB to get outta there? Yeah that may have been mentioned a time or two!
Oh, no problem if you have a SawsAll.. ~; :BEER:
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Nice! I like the look a lot better, and always wanted an inside bike for the winter. It just goes to show what a few years of ethanol in the gas will do to your carb. Have fun.
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if the gas cap and flange that mounts on tank are the same as an EV (looks like it) I will give you the whole set up complete with key/ it looks the same but someone with both bikes could confirm it? might be a lot easier than making a plate.
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if the gas cap and flange that mounts on tank are the same as an EV (looks like it) I will give you the whole set up complete with key/ it looks the same but someone with both bikes could confirm it? might be a lot easier than making a plate.
;-T
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To Chuck & Fotoguzzi...
The gas cap ring
OD 120mm
ID (for the cap I have in mind) 1.5"
Thickness ~2mm
The bolts holes are m5 and 60mm ctc
The PCD of the bolt holes is 102.06 mm
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You might want to put the transmission breather and its spring back together the way it was designed.
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The shift detent spring is back in under the barb.. I put it in originally just took the pic cause I wasn't sure *exactly* what it was for.
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I spend a long time last night looking for the emails from GuzziSteve with the jetting and filters..
I cannot find those SOB's anywhere.. I must have deleted by accident :-( They have been in my inbox for over a year then POOF gone
My carbs have been re-jetted from stock.. Euro jetting *i think*
I am going to run stock headers & x-over pipe with Busso pipes off a Lario and the pod filters
If Steve or anyone has a good jetting baseline for that setup please let me know!
I'm going to crack open the carbs tonight & see what jets are in there & start the cleaning
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I do have a question on the pods... I'm sure Steve recommended something besides K&N but that info was in the jetting email I lost :-(
They had bright red rubber cages and I'm pretty sure they were 45 degree instead of straight?? I'm pretty sure it was a German or Italian company but not K&N or BMC.. Someone I had never heard of.
I did order one of these to test fit up...
http://www.knfilters.com/mobile/mProduct.aspx?&prod=RU-2930
I got free shipping with amazon Prime so of it doesn't work I can send it back
Oh yeah obligatory pic.. Here's why my carbs are full of junk!
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/4440918D-36AA-4016-94A2-28D8E900751E_zpszty3qoaj.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/4440918D-36AA-4016-94A2-28D8E900751E_zpszty3qoaj.jpg.html)
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;D ;-T
Chad, one good turn deserves another. ;D I made a fuel pump block off plate for Rosie when I lined her tank.
http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=62087.0
*If it is the same*.. look in parts manuals and make sure it is the same part number.. I'll make one for you out of aluminum. Let me dig through my "good junk" pile and see if I have some. You'll also need that big hunker gasket to seal it.
I'll also make that filler neck part, but your cardboard template isn't good enough. I'll need a real one to get the geometry.
More than you probably want to know in the Lario rehab thread. A search will find it. I made a gizmo for nothing for the transmission vent, but IIRC, a big block vent will interchange.
Well chuck that's mighty nice!
According to the Harper's website those bikes have different parts numbers
The '10 v-7 is #978930
The v11 sporty one is a #01107290
No idea if the footprint is the same!
I'll take some measurements off this tank, maybe you can compare them to your CAD of your block-off plate.
I figure it's pretty possible the pump is a diff part # but the bung is the same size/bolt pattern
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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See chuck if you had taken this bike for the Aero engine you would still be futzing with this tank instead of halfway through your engine swap!
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Mayor,
Just a thought about dismantling the carbs. One at a time is Good ;-T
The carbs on my old BM were mirror images. Make drawings in a note pad.
You have an excellent GF ;-T
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See chuck if you had taken this bike for the Aero engine you would still be futzing with this tank instead of halfway through your engine swap!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Oh, I knew it issues that would bother me until I had them sorted out. I've BTDT already with the Lario.. ;D
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Carbs are easy. Follow thisoldtractor and you'll be fine. To clean them once dissembled soak in 100% original PineSol for 12 to 24 hours. Rinse with hot water and inspect. If still dirty another soak and a used toothbrush are your friend. The tank is also salvageable. A gallon of milkstone remover and top the rest of the tank off with warm water. Let soak 24 hours and it'll be clean as a whistle. All the rust will be gone. Rinse out tank with hot water. Empty out as goo as you can then pour in some 90% rubbing alcohol a or a bottle or so of Heet. It will help to absorb the remanding water. Alcohol likes to bind with water.
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Yes it was jetted to euro spec as per Guzziology, but I don't remember what sizes they were.
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Malossi filters for PHBH carbs from Herdan Corp,Port Clinton, PA
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Great to see you didn't give up and are doing the necessary steps to make it run spiffy! No reason after what you are doing that it shouldn't scoot nicely for you. I like the seat/tank mod. What about those side covers? Carbs are easy. I'd check yours against normal perimeters and let us know. Changes I've made with pods/exhaust didn't amount to any change in jets surprisingly. Don't just assume you need to change anything. I wouldn't change jets until I rode it and inspected the plug chops (and possibly played with my needle a bit). You need to run it with good gas before you know anything from what your past posts have indicated. Keep us updated. ;-T
Kevin
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I got one of my carbs disassembled, soaked and clean..
I did commit two boo-boos, hopefully you guys can tell me not all is lost
Boo-Boo #1
I must have missed a couple of the paper gaskets on tear-down (there are a few more in the PHBH than in the loop carb on this old tractor).. Once I got the carb soaking they came out.
I did not get fresh gaskets & o-rings, as these carbs were totally rebuilt under 1000k mi ago. and were not gunky, just clogged with rust.
I took the pinesol-soaked gaskets, rinsed them, and placed them between paper towels under a heavy toolbox to press them dry.
Do you think this has compromised the gaskets? I am going to put it back together but I don't forsee testing them with gas for months.
Boo-Boo #2
I prob should have not soaked the carbs in pinesol; as I said they weren't gunky, just clogged.
I took it apart and lo-n-behold I ended up letting them soak almost 3 days before I scrubbed rinsed & dried it.
This is what the pinesol did to the slide :o
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/EFB6DAF1-C887-42A7-8711-063371C16E6F_zpsjxsfboru.jpg)
So new slide at a minimum, I guess I will go ahead and order a gasket kit :-(
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I do also think I would get a lot more done on my bike this winter if I could just tinker on it in the warm living room watching TV!.. Wow on the slide, NAPA sells a good carb cleaner for soaking (comes in a 1 gallon can).
All is looking good!
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I like what you're doing. Was your bike originally a regular V65 or the cruiser version? V7 tank fits with minor finagling only? How are you going to attach the seat, as it's quite different underneath than the V50 seats, which are presumably not too different from the V65?
I used the Café seat on my V50. Could have made up something complicated but ended up just using hose clamps. Hey, what holds a Guzzi together anyway? A little tricky to get at the tool kit but better security for it, and it's the most comfortable motorcycle seat my butt has ever sat on.
You're right about the airbox. PITA and gets in the way of everything. Pods on the V50, still have the stock box on the Monza as it works perfectly and if it ain't broke… but getting to anything is a major hassle and I have small hands. At some point it will get tossed.
Keep up the good work!
cr
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Did you take the complete carb fully assembled and submerge it for three days? Not sure how caustic that stuff is but by the looks it did a number on things. I'd rebuild the plastic/rubber/gasket bits by the looks of that metal. I would have disassembled and did a quick washing/rinsing/blowout with air. Your slide plating looks toasted. I hope your floats are ok as new ones are worthless, but your float jet seats that are rubber-tipped I'd inspect or simply replace. Anything that's not metal likely was compromised.
Nothing a few dollars can't get back.
Kevin
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Did you take the complete carb fully assembled and submerge it for three days? Not sure how caustic that stuff is but by the looks it did a number on things. I'd rebuild the plastic/rubber/gasket bits by the looks of that metal. I would have disassembled and did a quick washing/rinsing/blowout with air. Your slide plating looks toasted. I hope your floats are ok as new ones are worthless, but your float jet seats that are rubber-tipped I'd inspect or simply replace. Anything that's not metal likely was compromised.
Nothing a few dollars can't get back.
Kevin
Kev,
I totally disassembled the carbs
I soaked all the metal bits
Did not soak the o-rings or gaskets (except the two I missed~ which I fished out within a couple hours). I also did not soak the plastic cap over the slide or the float itself!
Slide is most deff roasted.. It feels like concrete texture lol
Luckily Hearndon had a euro slide, gasket kit, & the Malossi filters all in stock!
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Also kev, the metal looks a bit dark in the pic owing to the cat-proof "don't steal my jets & O-ring dome" :-)
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Also kev, the metal looks a bit dark in the pic owing to the cat-proof "don't steal my jets & O-ring dome" :-)
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Ol Radar.. RIP.. A Maine Coon, would have had that dome off there in a heartbeat if he thought is was interesting. ;D
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Ol Radar.. RIP.. A Maine Coon, would have had that dome off there in a heartbeat if he thought is was interesting. ;D
My girlfriend has a Maine Coon & that is the most vocal cat I've ever seen! She's a BIG sweetie
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My girlfriend has a Maine Coon & that is the most vocal cat I've ever seen! She's a BIG sweetie
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Yep. Radar could "almost" talk. ;D He loved people.. not too bright, but...
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/IMG_5383.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/IMG_5383.jpg.html)
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I feel like I'm moving at a snail's pace.. But I did get a chunk knocked out today.. Built a breather system to replace what we lost with the airbox coming out.
I don't think this needs to be said, but this is NOT a 'how-to' thread. I am only posting the pics here to document my progress and *hopefully* when I do something wrong, someone, somewhere will set me straight!
Anyway, a kind member sent me pics of his breather system, upon which this one is based.. I'll redact his name here, as he says he was flamed for posting his design ;D
But it looked good to me and made sense.. so I slightly modified his design and went to town ~;
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/A7A95FD4-1E47-4C12-BDAA-842E7B10CD4C_zps9y82ffft.jpg)
(the hairspray will be explained later ??? )
I'm building a little manifold from PVC. First step is fixing the brass fittings into the end caps.
First pilot holes to center a bigger bit.. roughly equal to the ID of the threaded end of the fitting
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/D51930E0-B74A-4B90-84B2-488D76FE5C17_zpsnkbjoneu.jpg)
I'm using a socket with some crap stuffed in it to hold the cap steady. This rusty old bit was the only one I had in the correct size.
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/404221AD-5384-40F5-B033-CDA1ED7100FE_zpsjzkzmndi.jpg)
Seated the fitting into the drill (turn down the speed and torque of the drill); then I heated the threaded end until it was so hot it almost burned me to touch it. (I'm a chef, too hot for me too touch is probably hotter than too hot for you to touch unless you are a welder)
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/C339E2E9-14CD-4DAD-A086-0C6301445C08_zps2oq2feyp.jpg)
I slowly drove the hot threads into the cap. After a few mins in the freezer to cool, I had some damn good threads ;-T
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/9DCA927A-92DA-425F-8104-B9F754EDB688_zpsxknz92yn.jpg)
I made two threaded caps. One is the return to sump outlet (on the short L side). This end will point down to collect and drain oil.
I used the same ~drill undersized & press-in hot fitting~ technique to insert a T in the 'top' of the manifold. This junction is not as airtight as the caps, but it's pretty good. These are the connections for the valve cover vents.
On the long L endcap is the outlet to atmosphere. I cut a plug from a small piece of sponge & stuffed it in there.
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/EB18B03A-52D7-40CF-806D-2E90352D9E88_zpscxtvdyte.jpg)
It's quite compact and fits pretty neatly away. The exhaust runs up with a couple loops & tucks between the head tube gussets (Is that what they are called on a motorcycle? that would be the bicycle terminology).
I am worried about the rise from the valve covers to the manifold.. In stock form these hoses run roughly 'downhill' to the airbox. As they run now, it's roughly a 6-7" rise from the valve cover port up the the manifold inlet.
The return hose to the sump follows the factory routing. The manifold looks pretty level in this pic. That is not the case, as the bike's rear wheel is elevated in the pic with a 2x4 under the centerstand and the front wheel on the ground. Once the bike is level, it will profoundly tilt toward the outlet for oil to drain.
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/FC9ECDED-C4CB-465D-B9C0-089C02B58E14_zpsfl5ojkjz.jpg)
i took this fitting to NAPA and they acted like it was something mysterious and never-before-seen? I wanted to finish today, so I just dremeled off the collar and fit the sump return onto the barb with an oetiker clamp
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/CBC96428-069D-48F2-8A08-82EB453547E1_zpsojtbnqxi.jpg)
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I am worried about the rise from the valve covers to the manifold.. In stock form these hoses run roughly 'downhill' to the airbox. As they run now, it's roughly a 6-7" rise from the valve cover port up the the manifold inlet.
No problemo. The stock location on the Lario is up in front of the coils. Molded threads. ;D I would never have thought of trying that..
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So here is the tiny hairspray bottle.. It will be my overflow/catch tank for the tranny breather.
I don't expect it to blow fluid all the way up the hose and into the catch... if this thing turns out to be redundant, I will pitch it.
First I sprayed out the little remaining hairspray and held it until I couldn't hear gas escaping.
I pulled out what sprayer parts I could.. Then drove an awl down in the nipple.
Once I got a hole clear to the inside and was sure it wouldn't blow up.. I went to a drill bit, then a larger bit...
Because the material is so thin and I don't have a vise or drill press... After a couple drill bits i switched to some taps and just stepped up until I got the nipple sheared off fairly cleanly. The hose was almost exactly the nipple diameter. A little clean up with the dremel and I got a nice clean hole that's a perfect fir for the hose.
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/AE547F22-A60F-4D84-8D92-F165922E5288_zpsy3gmszfh.jpg)
The hose is a snug, but not airtight fit in the hole.. Enough slop to blow off any pressure at all.. But tight enough to stay in place and hopefully return anything that blows over enough to accumulate in the catch can. I sanded all the hairspray salon writing off the outside ;-T
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/5EE2B382-2C6B-4B52-929B-B7620D4B3CE2_zpsahnjxpj4.jpg)
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If we are keeping score,
I've now completed
*Trans breather update
*Pulled the airbox
*Oil pressure sending unit
*Crankcase Breather/return system
*Relocated the horn
*Re-routed some wiring
*Cleaned & damaged one carb~ verified I have euro jetting
*Replaced at least 10 fasteners with stainless
Today I hope to get the carb kits and filters.. Hopefully have the carbs back on by monday
I should also receive the gas cap flange and that can get a test fit.
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I still lack
*Mounting system for tank (concept intact)
*block-off plate for tank
*figure out how to get gas from tank to carbs
*modify rear fender to accept cafe seat
*rebuild both carbs
*shorten the clutch cable
*rear drive updates
*fix tach
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Here are the dimensions of the fuel pump bung on the bottom of the pre-2012 v7 tank
It ain't pretty but this is just a rubbing with measurements taken off the tank with calipers
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/C2B6D4DA-9E13-4E2F-8F7B-15CE63EEB857_zpseecwyiu7.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/C2B6D4DA-9E13-4E2F-8F7B-15CE63EEB857_zpseecwyiu7.jpg.html)
As close as I can figure thru PM's and looking at pics.. It has the same footprint as several other Guzzi tanks
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Very interesting thread. ya goin' good! ;-T
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Here are the dimensions of the fuel pump bung on the bottom of the pre-2012 v7 tank
It ain't pretty but this is just a rubbing with measurements taken off the tank with calipers
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/C2B6D4DA-9E13-4E2F-8F7B-15CE63EEB857_zpseecwyiu7.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/C2B6D4DA-9E13-4E2F-8F7B-15CE63EEB857_zpseecwyiu7.jpg.html)
As close as I can figure thru PM's and looking at pics.. It has the same footprint as several other Guzzi tanks
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I found some aircraft aluminum drops at my supplier yesterday.. cheap.. (Guzzi content) wanted 1/4" but they only had 3/8". That's what ya get.. ;D
Maybe tomorrow I'll make you one.
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PM me your snail mail, and I'll get it off to you..
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Carbs are done but I did have one snafu and one question
Snafu:
I seem to be short a washer.. I've looked everywhere & I'm fairly certain I did not lose it.
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/C14EE211-7017-4658-B80D-3E0254BB0CE8_zpsgam1s4vh.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/C14EE211-7017-4658-B80D-3E0254BB0CE8_zpsgam1s4vh.jpg.html)
The washer seems to protect the o-ring from the spring. Do you think I am asking for trouble if I put it back together without this washer? Seems like a stretch to order one of these?? And no idea if something like this is available locally
My other question is this..
The main jet holder does not screw down tight to the shoulder of the main jet passageway
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/97CFD367-D3A7-4781-9FE7-660A9CA18AD5_zpsobemh7ko.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/97CFD367-D3A7-4781-9FE7-660A9CA18AD5_zpsobemh7ko.jpg.html)
I am fairly certain the atomizer is correctly seated.. But it still doesn't screw in flush. I forgot to notice/take pics of this gap when I disassembled. Is it supposed to screw in flush?
The float bowl seems properly seated and I can see the atomizer tip protruding into the chamber.
*****edit!!****
I can see on this old tractor that it isn't supposed to seat fully on the shoulder
Still would love feedback on the washer
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The rear drive update was a mixed bag..
I was glad to open it up and find that the update has already been completed!
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/36BA85ED-3B0B-4B5F-BC36-04F3F55BF2C2_zpsfdxym0dn.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/36BA85ED-3B0B-4B5F-BC36-04F3F55BF2C2_zpsfdxym0dn.jpg.html)
Oil passage is drilled and the plates are gone!
The only downfall here was that my rear drive was clamshelled with TWO spacers & 3 gaskets.. Was not expecting that so I only had 2 gaskets on hand! Ordered some more from Harper's hopefully I will get it back together this week or weekend.
I had to remove the bolts with an impact driver.. The treads were either plugged with red gasket sealer or red locktite?
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/C5A2679A-F487-419E-8473-EA727185A9CB_zpseohned65.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/C5A2679A-F487-419E-8473-EA727185A9CB_zpseohned65.jpg.html)
I assume I should reassemble the same... Rattle the bolts in instead of hand torque? And use gasket sealant in the holes?
This rear drive has never leaked for me.. Perhaps the double spacer, triple gasket, & gasket sealer in the holes indicates it did at some point?
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In other news, I got all the hardware to mount the tank today... It will be a multi-day project and I'm going to hold off the pics until it's completed but I'm feeling pretty fancy about my plans
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I would not assemble without the/a washer. If it chews it up pieces aren't healthy in a carb.
Lock all of those jets/seats/etc. in good with your screwdriver. I won't describe the trouble I had while having seats come loose and starving me of fuel. ::)
You know how to set the floats? Important to get them close, but don't stress if not perfect.
Do things right and you will only have to do them once (the hope anyways). Don't hurry IOW.
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Uhhh, doesn't the spacer and gaskets involve how the crown wheel and pinion engage?
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Uhhh, doesn't the spacer and gaskets involve how the crown wheel and pinion engage?
I see what you are saying chuck.. But I don't get what you are saying? I guess spacer is the wrong word.. More like shim? I see there are many sizes available. The two in my rear drive are roughly 1mm & .8mm and the gaskets were thin thin thin
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Lock all of those jets/seats/etc. in good with your screwdriver. I won't describe the trouble I had while having seats come loose and starving me of fuel. ::)
You know how to set the floats? Important to get them close, but don't stress if not perfect.
Kev,
I tightened everything as much as seemed practical.. Bender was pretty adamant in the tutorial not to over-torque the stuff together.. So I was tough, but fair lol
As for the floats.. I see there is a tab you could bend that would limit or influence how high it floats.. But I'm not sure how to set it or if it should be set high or low... I did not adjust it; just put it back together as it was.
This bike ran great when the carbs weren't full of rust; so I don't think there is any reason to adjust the float height??
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Kev,
I tightened everything as much as seemed practical.. Bender was pretty adamant in the tutorial not to over-torque the stuff together.. So I was tough, but fair lol
As for the floats.. I see there is a tab you could bend that would limit or influence how high it floats.. But I'm not sure how to set it or if it should be set high or low... I did not adjust it; just put it back together as it was.
This bike ran great when the carbs weren't full of rust; so I don't think there is any reason to adjust the float height??
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Yes... a good hand tight and no more on those carb bits. When you have things apart it's wise to take all measures to take note of things. Float height is easy to check. Dellorto has a site that explains their carbs. Just google. I would not EVER use a pneumatic tool on a Guzzi (can you say stripped threads). Put that rear drive together by hand and a torque wrench. I wouldn't guess on gaskets or assume the PO got it right. Use correct parts and your life will be much easier.
Kevin
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Got both carbs together and mounted.. All seems perfect and the Malossi pods fit perfectly
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/00263BC4-A2B6-408A-8CAB-8DE85ECD799C_zpszfdgjpu3.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/00263BC4-A2B6-408A-8CAB-8DE85ECD799C_zpszfdgjpu3.jpg.html)
I've had an issue with the clutch cable on this bike since I got it. First clutch cable broke in the first 100mi. I ordered a v65sp cable and it was away too long? I ordered a v65c cable and it was a *bit* too long. It fits.. But the adjuster at the lever had to be wound all the way out to the last thread to engage.
This must be an issue with several smallblocks... Chuck had a similar issue in the Lario thread. Chuck was able to turn out a spacer but since I don't have a lathe, I needed another solution.
I decide to make my own cable
I started with a *road* bicycle brake cable. These 'inner wires' are 1.5mm while the clutch cable is 2mm.
I am not concerned about cable breaking.. The force I exert stopping my bike while descending the BRP at 50 mph far exceeds the stress put on the clutch cable.
The stop on the cable ends are different for road vs MTB brake levers, and the road style fits perfectly in the stock barrel/anchor
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/42136C0B-031D-4581-BBA9-28F3D740BFA3_zpsqhbq7mji.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/42136C0B-031D-4581-BBA9-28F3D740BFA3_zpsqhbq7mji.jpg.html)
the stock cable up top, bicycle road middle, MTB at bottom
Since bicycle cables only have a brazen on stop at one end, had to make the barrel/anchor that fits in the shifter arm tongue thingy
I used a brass screw type end to determine & clamp the cable length.. Then I lightly clamped the cable to mark the position and backed the bolt off so it wasn't crimping the wire.. I trimmed the wire to length and frayed it within the tube to make a more secure fitting
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/B4EEEC3B-0CFB-4CF0-A65C-F7169658EC4D_zpsjw4jvtr9.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/B4EEEC3B-0CFB-4CF0-A65C-F7169658EC4D_zpsjw4jvtr9.jpg.html)
I left the bolt in just a turn or three and filled the brass fitting with solder.
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/D5125E59-90E3-4488-B383-65E7BA10CD05_zpstc434qcx.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/D5125E59-90E3-4488-B383-65E7BA10CD05_zpstc434qcx.jpg.html)
I used a dremel to cut off the bolt & clean it up a bit.
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/D89C3E8F-80DE-4029-A38B-0872AA8A4A20_zpsuqgw6ago.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/D89C3E8F-80DE-4029-A38B-0872AA8A4A20_zpsuqgw6ago.jpg.html)
It fits like a glove :-D
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/5443001B-62E9-4508-B7EE-E47FC37B0DF9_zpsrujmwamk.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/5443001B-62E9-4508-B7EE-E47FC37B0DF9_zpsrujmwamk.jpg.html)
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Very clever ;-T
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I got my block-off plate from Chuck today, fit is perfect. I am just waiting on an couple little pieces from Harper's to fit the tank and build that mount.
I have been thinking of the petcock situation
The V7 tank I have is a vinyl Acerbis tank. I looked on the Acerbis website and found these
http://shops.hookit.com/Acerbis/FullImage/Default.aspx?Image=2044230998.jpg&ImageName=Petcocks%20and%20Parts
As far as I can tell, you just drill a hole right in the tank for the tube, and screw it in? it can't be that simple?? ::)
That little O-ring will keep it from leaking and the wood screws won't pull out ???
I am very suspect to just drill holes in this tank.. sure i got it used and as cheap as you could hope for... But dang this doesn't seem like a secure option? Am I over thinking this?
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No idea , but you are making us proud ;-T
Dusty
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I got my block-off plate from Chuck today, fit is perfect. I am just waiting on an couple little pieces from Harper's to fit the tank and build that mount.
I have been thinking of the petcock situation
The V7 tank I have is a vinyl Acerbis tank. I looked on the Acerbis website and found these
http://shops.hookit.com/Acerbis/FullImage/Default.aspx?Image=2044230998.jpg&ImageName=Petcocks%20and%20Parts
As far as I can tell, you just drill a hole right in the tank for the tube, and screw it in? it can't be that simple?? ::)
That little O-ring will keep it from leaking and the wood screws won't pull out ???
I am very suspect to just drill holes in this tank.. sure i got it used and as cheap as you could hope for... But dang this doesn't seem like a secure option? Am I over thinking this?
On Rosie, the block off plate is toward the back. I'd drill a hole in that, drill and tap it, and install the petcock. I certainly *wouldn't* just drill a hole somewhere in the tank.
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If you're not comfortable tapping blind holes in the plate, just send it back with a sketch of location and orientation of where you want to have it.
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I ran into the same problem with my project Lario that I fitted an Acerbis V7 tank onto.
The problem I saw was by putting standard fuel taps into the blanking plate it would have made the manual taps difficult to get to (especially with a hot motor.)
I have seen several Italian bikes hydraulic due to not turning the fuel off, very expensive Dellorto lesson to learn!
I ended up fitting a Nevada electric solenoid style fuel tap in the blanking plate and have just wired it up to open when the ignition is on.
The only question is how reliable the Nevada Solenoid will be???
Cheers
Bruce
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I ran into the same problem with my project Lario that I fitted an Acerbis V7 tank onto.
The problem I saw was by putting standard fuel taps into the blanking plate it would have made the manual taps difficult to get to (especially with a hot motor.)
I have seen several Italian bikes hydraulic due to not turning the fuel off, very expensive Dellorto lesson to learn!
I ended up fitting a Nevada electric solenoid style fuel tap in the blanking plate and have just wired it up to open when the ignition is on.
The only question is how reliable the Nevada Solenoid will be???
Cheers
Bruce
The valve will be fine. The failure is right where the two wires exit the "potted" epoxy. They flex and over time one will break. Support the wiring with zip ties, and pay attention to not letting them flex.
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If I put the petcocks In the block off plate tho.. I'm consigning myself to only using 2/3 of my fuel capacity forever??
The spot for fuel pickup would leave over a gallon++ inaccessible in the bottom of the tank!
Also I need a 3-position petcock for the reserve (no fuel gauge)...
I also don't want electronic because i need to be able to close them & run the carbs dry for storage (*only* E-10 available around here)
Bruce, is love to see a few pics of your tank mounts & petcocks
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If you're not comfortable tapping blind holes in the plate, just send it back with a sketch of location and orientation of where you want to have it.
Drilling & tapping holes is within my skillset!
Next thing you'll be getting in the mail from me is :beer !
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Drilling & tapping holes is within my skillset!
Next thing you'll be getting in the mail from me is :beer !
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Thanks for that, but no need. ;D Is the block off plate toward the front on the V7 tank? If so, I wouldn't be above fiberglassing some mounts on the rear of the tank where I wanted them. On the V11 tank, it's right where you would want it if you were putting a fuel tap on it.
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Got my rear drive back together with all the apropos shims & gaskets
I was feeling pretty snappy with myself until I threaded the drain plug back in!
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/5830AC85-89DE-447E-8398-D35837550C39_zps1zz1xp20.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/5830AC85-89DE-447E-8398-D35837550C39_zps1zz1xp20.jpg.html)
Dagnabbit!
Well I slotted it with a dremel & it spun right out with a screwdriver...
I guess I'm off to NAPA tomorrow to see if the have a plug that fits.. I'm pretty sure it's a m8 x1.25 but I'll double check
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I'm pretty sure it's a m8 x1.25 but I'll double check
I'm pretty sure that it's not. ;D :BEER:
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Thanks for that, but no need. ;D Is the block off plate toward the front on the V7 tank? If so, I wouldn't be above fiberglassing some mounts on the rear of the tank where I wanted them. On the V11 tank, it's right where you would want it if you were putting a fuel tap on it.
Chuck the porthole is at the rear of the tank
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/E73A7521-7EEA-42D4-BAB8-49FAAF41C334_zpshpvv4oyo.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/E73A7521-7EEA-42D4-BAB8-49FAAF41C334_zpshpvv4oyo.jpg.html)
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/BF88DFAC-56D2-4DDF-8FC7-5226F7A4E59E_zpsxvkc8lxk.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/BF88DFAC-56D2-4DDF-8FC7-5226F7A4E59E_zpsxvkc8lxk.jpg.html)
Doesn't look like it could pick up any gas lower than the top edge of this caliper
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/2EF79B27-23E7-4457-8F50-C3D44CE6508C_zpsjkfkto3t.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/2EF79B27-23E7-4457-8F50-C3D44CE6508C_zpsjkfkto3t.jpg.html)
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Hmmm. I guess you could be creative, and put a flop tube on it like on aerobatic airplanes. Just a rubber hose with a weight on the end with holes in it. It could lay in the low part of of the tank. Just a thought from left field..
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I had thought about that chuck.. I didn't know if there would be enough 'pull'
Also I was hoping to preserve the reserve function since I don't have a fuel gauge
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And this is all going on in your front room? I got tossed out when I had a greasy manual in there. :wife:
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Yes this is a living room project!
Well the rear drive plug is a m10x1.5
Couldn't find a plug locally but I scored a flanged bolt that will work
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/1171BB30-905C-43FA-8273-29257B5E288D_zpshcmq4azp.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/1171BB30-905C-43FA-8273-29257B5E288D_zpshcmq4azp.jpg.html)
Of course it's too long!
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/17B2B24D-EFFB-410D-98B4-62C32D091643_zpsqhq5xztg.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/17B2B24D-EFFB-410D-98B4-62C32D091643_zpsqhq5xztg.jpg.html)
And I still wanted magnet capability so had to address that
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/1884393A-6715-4A1D-B2BB-37F4F52E5BF8_zpsnq2hlb19.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/1884393A-6715-4A1D-B2BB-37F4F52E5BF8_zpsnq2hlb19.jpg.html)
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I hope the heat doesn't soften that J B Weld :o
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I *think* JB's ok to 300F or so..
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I hope the heat doesn't soften that J B Weld :o
I don't think the heat back there is enough to break the JB
The good news is that the magnet is *much* stronger than the stocker & it sticks to the bolt tight (bolt isn't stainless).. It would probably hold there even without the JB weld.. And the steel particles in the JB, they are going to stay stuck on the magnet as well.
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Chuck look at this.. Could bolt right on a Harley petcock 3/8"
http://www.sonexaircraft.com/documents/instruction_sheets/Oops_Fittings.pdf
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I also don't want electronic because i need to be able to close them & run the carbs dry for storage...
That by itself isn't a problem, since you can put a plug-in connector at or near the valve, and be able to unplug it to run the carbs dry. I'm not pushing solenoid operated fuel valves though. :)
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Chuck look at this.. Could bolt right on a Harley petcock 3/8"
http://www.sonexaircraft.com/documents/instruction_sheets/Oops_Fittings.pdf
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I've known the Monnet bunch for 30 some years. ;D That oughta work.
As they say, the smoother and flatter the better. Fuel leaks are a major PITA. Don't ask me how I know.
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Chuck look at this.. Could bolt right on a Harley petcock 3/8"
http://www.sonexaircraft.com/documents/instruction_sheets/Oops_Fittings.pdf
Hmm. Made almost exactly the same thing to install a petcock on a vintage Malcolm Smith tank for my XT500. That tank has plenty of flat area on the bottom for one, but it doesn't look like the V7 Classic tank does. Might be, but I don't see a suitable place in any of your photos.
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I'll have to do some measurements but I think there is a spot
Thanks guys.. Big vote of confidence
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I got the trim ring for the tank
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/2C344053-ABE6-4C66-9DA5-61C3D99D1A17_zpsnafkpj9f.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/2C344053-ABE6-4C66-9DA5-61C3D99D1A17_zpsnafkpj9f.jpg.html)
I had intent to polish it but I decided it won't look right as my bike has no real 'bling'
I couldn't figure any way to apply a 'brushed finish that would look uniform
So I simple hazed it up with a water stone. Gives a really neat finish on knives so what the heck.
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/103084FA-FDF1-4A2A-A292-38BF8E511D7D_zpsjmzcy9m8.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/103084FA-FDF1-4A2A-A292-38BF8E511D7D_zpsjmzcy9m8.jpg.html)
I worked it a little and got a very even blue haze.
Cut out a gasket
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/6AEAB414-9EE3-433D-A3F3-B17B77C9E2FC_zps17ctuxgv.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/6AEAB414-9EE3-433D-A3F3-B17B77C9E2FC_zps17ctuxgv.jpg.html)
There must must must be a faster way to do all this stuff... Every project takes me all day!
Bonded the filler bung with JB weld
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/26D34DA3-55A4-4EB2-BED0-FB6DAC561FA1_zpsfdye4jn6.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/26D34DA3-55A4-4EB2-BED0-FB6DAC561FA1_zpsfdye4jn6.jpg.html)
I washed & waxed the tank and put it all together
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/C482C90C-6E69-4C55-8873-60D8682468B3_zpsylpetytn.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/C482C90C-6E69-4C55-8873-60D8682468B3_zpsylpetytn.jpg.html)
The bolts are S/S bicycle water bottle cage bolts. I'm on the lookout for some black ones
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Time to tackle the mount for the tank. Luckily the neck width is about perfect. The V65 rubber bumpers are a little wide but provide a firm fit :-)
The rubber pucks do not line up with the puck-slots for the tank so I wanted a very secure rear mount.
Unfortunately the rear MC rez and this electrical doo-dad are in the way. But at least there is a bracket to work with!
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/891151E0-B552-46D5-BC0B-99E6192F67A1_zpspqfbwc6i.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/891151E0-B552-46D5-BC0B-99E6192F67A1_zpspqfbwc6i.jpg.html)
I forced Lisa to walk (oh, the indignity) to the storage unit.. I think there is a little vise and an angle grinder in there
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/554C03FE-2C5F-40E2-A5E2-6F6751533811_zpsqmrwbw2n.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/554C03FE-2C5F-40E2-A5E2-6F6751533811_zpsqmrwbw2n.jpg.html)
Back at the shop I carefully measured & plotted.. Then I said screw it and just went nuts with a little heat-n-beat
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/1F0DD51C-D944-4FE8-A504-A926F43794F2_zps4tq3evv4.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/1F0DD51C-D944-4FE8-A504-A926F43794F2_zps4tq3evv4.jpg.html)
It accidentally came out dang near straight on the first try
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/09DD052E-FFD3-4729-83B9-092328493FBA_zpsiq9p4kqq.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/09DD052E-FFD3-4729-83B9-092328493FBA_zpsiq9p4kqq.jpg.html)
There was much test fitting, cursing, drilling... Then I used precision instruments to get it dialed in
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/AD2EAD8D-07BA-42D2-99F6-CE1C6B1DDB6C_zpsqbghuxs6.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/AD2EAD8D-07BA-42D2-99F6-CE1C6B1DDB6C_zpsqbghuxs6.jpg.html)
Test fit looks good, even enough room for the petcock! (More on the plumbing project soon)
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/2EFBDED3-3E4F-4041-B081-0AEAE789944C_zpsybiqecti.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/2EFBDED3-3E4F-4041-B081-0AEAE789944C_zpsybiqecti.jpg.html)
There was much sanding and painting & oven curing.. To get here
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/DBDCB614-27C2-4D6C-A523-931200779BB5_zpsh4nxvzrh.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/DBDCB614-27C2-4D6C-A523-931200779BB5_zpsh4nxvzrh.jpg.html)
And it all fits tight & right but I do need a shorter fixing bolt lol
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/F063733D-FB08-4684-A10D-034374593069_zpssqw27yeh.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/F063733D-FB08-4684-A10D-034374593069_zpssqw27yeh.jpg.html)
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Really enjoying this. ;-T ;-T
A length of #8 wire and a bit of flax; a guy can do 'most anything! ;D ;D
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Just a question on the gas cap.
It looks pretty air tight, have you allowed for a tank vent?
Great thread BTW ;-T
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What KR sez.. gotta be a vent somewhere.
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Oh yes.. The tank is vented
The tank has two vents.. It formerly had the carbon canister
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/14F45EBD-5521-47BD-8129-5FA6A0A11ADC_zpsaw2jy0qs.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/14F45EBD-5521-47BD-8129-5FA6A0A11ADC_zpsaw2jy0qs.jpg.html)
The lower one I blocked off with a license plate bolt
The other one is still clear & venting out the bottom of the tank.. If I can figure out WTF kind of threads or a good press-fit.. I will put on a tube to the bottom vent and run a drain tube down
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Oh yes.. The tank is vented
The tank has two vents.. It formerly had the carbon canister
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/14F45EBD-5521-47BD-8129-5FA6A0A11ADC_zpsaw2jy0qs.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/14F45EBD-5521-47BD-8129-5FA6A0A11ADC_zpsaw2jy0qs.jpg.html)
The lower one I blocked off with a license plate bolt
The other one is still clear & venting out the bottom of the tank.. If I can figure out WTF kind of threads or a good press-fit.. I will put on a tube to the bottom vent and run a drain tube down
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I see the vent hole and main hole are venting to the same spot; under the sealed filler cap. Is this tightly sealed as I'm thinking? If so, I'd say it's not venting. Am I missing something?
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I see the vent hole and main hole are venting to the same spot; under the sealed filler cap. Is this tightly sealed as I'm thinking? If so, I'd say it's not venting. Am I missing something?
Both of these holes go thru sealed tubes thru the tank and exit at the bottom
So the vents are on the underside, the two holes lead to two holes on the underside
In this case I've got one hole blocked at the top...
The hole I've left open vents direct to atmosphere
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Thanks for the explanation. Forgot about those tubes running out the bottom.
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Nice use of a precision BFH.. ;-T
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I had an unforeseen problem with petcock locations on my 'Mario' (Lario rolling chassis w/Mona body work). Because the V65 cylinders are taller than the Monza V50 cylinders it made the carburetor locations higher and wider. They ran right into the petcocks on the Monza tank.
The simplest solution was to move the petcocks. My local welder charged me $10 to relocate them.
I thought long and hard to come up with a reason that this location wasn't acceptable but could come up with nothing other than it being a bit 'outside the box'. Rode all summer with no problem.
If you want to retain your 3-position petcocks (w/reserve) this location might work......maybe not??(http://www.goldbugproducts.com/petcocks.jpg)
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So time to get the gas out of the tank and into the carbs..
Lots of discussion on this... Do I need a flop tube, should I drill for petcocks, can I put petcock in the block-off plate???
I've decided to do the following:
Got all my fixtures
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/506D1437-C38E-4CD8-9196-CAD801BCBD75_zps0gmepjiq.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/506D1437-C38E-4CD8-9196-CAD801BCBD75_zps0gmepjiq.jpg.html)
I elected to drill the block-off plate for a single petcock.
I will use a single flop tube in one side of the tank's deep lobes
Since there isn't continuous vacuum to keep fuel running up the line, over the plate, & down to the carbs.. I'm using a little Mikuni pulse fuel pump to feed gas.
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/14EE27C2-E711-4EC6-9EC6-0E7063BA8A02_zpsq0lyuog6.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/14EE27C2-E711-4EC6-9EC6-0E7063BA8A02_zpsq0lyuog6.jpg.html)
The pump is rated at 14L per hr but I think the simple siphon action will do most the work.. The pump will mostly be needed when the fuel level drops below the block-off plate.
Since I have the pickup tube only in one deep side of the tank.. My 'reserve' will be pulling the front wheel on a curb & shaking the gas from one recessed side of the tank to the one with the pickup tube... Dirtbike style. I'll have to carry gas at first till I get the milage dialed in.
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/BBD0D761-B461-4472-B459-F182111295BC_zpsaepi8op2.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/BBD0D761-B461-4472-B459-F182111295BC_zpsaepi8op2.jpg.html)
The pulse pump is driven off the intake.. I've just replaced the carb balancing port screw thingy with a m6 grease fitting I pulled the guts out of.
The vent tubes that run from the filler hole to the underside of the tank retain the pickup tube on the left side.
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/F80D399A-0BC4-4927-9A1A-A539DDCF9380_zpsh4ochepj.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/F80D399A-0BC4-4927-9A1A-A539DDCF9380_zpsh4ochepj.jpg.html)
My dad gave me a drill press for Christmas.. Too bad I had to bolt it to a cutting board but it's quite stable. It did make a hell of a mess tho (I only watch Downton Abbey while wrenching! Very macho!)
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/EB33F888-7171-4425-A235-551DFAC761C9_zpst9b25pry.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/EB33F888-7171-4425-A235-551DFAC761C9_zpst9b25pry.jpg.html)
Drilled the block off plate and taped it for NPT for the petcock
Lisa helped me hold the block-off plate while I screwed in the petcock
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/C43366DE-0091-4F07-A49D-9BECB04AEC6D_zpsbxnuj803.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/C43366DE-0091-4F07-A49D-9BECB04AEC6D_zpsbxnuj803.jpg.html)
Unfortunately I got a little over zealous trying to drive it in too far
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/67C55166-B530-4CE5-88DD-830C85D154CB_zpsswpipy2o.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/67C55166-B530-4CE5-88DD-830C85D154CB_zpsswpipy2o.jpg.html)
(Just needs a 1/4 turn more!!)
Luckily I had an extra petcock
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/72FC516D-51A3-42F5-9999-095D5F4E60A3_zpswuzzkgt9.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/72FC516D-51A3-42F5-9999-095D5F4E60A3_zpswuzzkgt9.jpg.html)
The brass fitting is screwed onto the petcock threads that protrude thru the plate.. With pipe tape all around. (Hope that was the right call)
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/5C4DB334-E139-4DDA-BBB4-36FE1B1D9219_zps5c0llbs2.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/5C4DB334-E139-4DDA-BBB4-36FE1B1D9219_zps5c0llbs2.jpg.html)
It's only one output from the tank to both carbs.. It runs thru an inline filter before splitting to both carbs. Hopefully with the pump it will feed enough to both carbs! If not Mikuni makes a dual output pump that flows 30L per hr I'll try that!
Here's the final product.. The weight on the flop tube is just another brass fitting like the one on the petcock
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/651F541E-D3A2-4AFA-8C75-A52CDE0EDD67_zps61sjnf8x.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/651F541E-D3A2-4AFA-8C75-A52CDE0EDD67_zps61sjnf8x.jpg.html)
Now all I need is the bung gasket from Harpers & we'll see if it leaks!
**if anyone thinks this system won't work!! Please say so!!
I got this idea over at ADV after asking the DS guys about drilling a plastic tank
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While I wait on the gasket I'm going to address the rear end wiring.
The loom is just a little too short & I have had several instances if the rear wheel scrubbing the wiring when riding two up. This destroyed the wiring to one of the turn signals.
I want to cut down the rear fender a bit (just enough to clean up the back since my cheap tank and seat are headed in a cafe direction).
I picked this updated Lucas style light from Dime City which suits my needs.
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/5F90F75E-9A2B-4CE1-A81C-503FA9D435E6_zpsqyqayjtl.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/5F90F75E-9A2B-4CE1-A81C-503FA9D435E6_zpsqyqayjtl.jpg.html)
Unfortunately it doesn't quite fit the curve of the fender perfectly so I had to space it somehow. I had a little spacer in the box but it was way too thick and of course only one so I decided to cut it in half.
Since I'm so stoked with my new drill press I decided to use that to cut it
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/6F6288A2-EC44-4D8F-A960-F3BA1F22A32E_zps4fszwt9q.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/6F6288A2-EC44-4D8F-A960-F3BA1F22A32E_zps4fszwt9q.jpg.html)
The cable worked perfectly
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/226CAA87-89C5-4507-9921-F1D049FBDDDE_zpsuo75hern.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/226CAA87-89C5-4507-9921-F1D049FBDDDE_zpsuo75hern.jpg.html)
After minimal cleanup I had two spacers and the damn things were even the same size!
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/1966A732-51FC-4EED-9CAA-41A5227559CC_zpshtw0uaip.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/1966A732-51FC-4EED-9CAA-41A5227559CC_zpshtw0uaip.jpg.html)
All bolted up you can't really see them but it worked perfectly, on the first try, as conceived! A first for me lol
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/AA34986D-246B-432B-B5A6-ED7465948CC0_zpsuprxypto.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/AA34986D-246B-432B-B5A6-ED7465948CC0_zpsuprxypto.jpg.html)
I used some electrical tape to mark off the section I want to chop. What do you think of this fender shape?
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/FD061A69-C81E-44B0-8DBA-6B530DF46518_zpsp5jmef4g.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/FD061A69-C81E-44B0-8DBA-6B530DF46518_zpsp5jmef4g.jpg.html)
The turn signals are going to mount in the holes of the upper frame tubes tabs tucked under the seat.
Next question.. What should I cut this fender with? I want to do minimal damage to the paint. I have an angle grinder.. A dremel.. Hacksaw, die grinder.. That's it.
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Next question.. What should I cut this fender with? I want to do minimal damage to the paint. I have an angle grinder.. A dremel.. Hacksaw, die grinder.. That's it.
Die grinder with a 1/16" fiber wheel.
I'm enjoying some of your McGyver methods ;D BUT you're lucky you didn't get hurt with the cable "cutter."
Maybe your Dremel with a cut off wheel or a hacksaw with the same setup would have cut it cleanly without a chance of that cable getting caught and ruining your day. ;)
I like the tail light and proposed fender cut.
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Die grinder with a 1/16" fiber wheel.
I'm enjoying some of your McGyver methods ;D BUT you're lucky you didn't get hurt with the cable "cutter."
Maybe your Dremel with a cut off wheel or a hacksaw with the same setup would have cut it cleanly without a chance of that cable getting caught and ruining your day. ;)
I like the tail light and proposed fender cut.
Thanks chuck I'll look for a wheel!
As for cutting plastic with the cable.. I'm only holding it with one hand for the pic.. While the chuck was spinning I held it taught with two vise grips :beer
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Thanks chuck I'll look for a wheel!
As for cutting plastic with the cable.. I'm only holding it with one hand for the pic.. While the chuck was spinning I held it taught with two vise grips :beer
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Oh. So then when the cable gets wound up on the chuck it yanks the vise grip out of your hand, spins it around and slaps you upside the head? ;D or worse? :o
Trust me. I've trained many apprentices over the years, and my biggest challenge was to keep them from getting hurt. Anything that is spinning, whether it's a drill press, lathe, mill, grinder, etc. is fully capable of doing serious damage to flesh and bone. :beat_horse
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Ah-ha
How does one sign up for an internship ??!!
You think this fuel pump system is going to work chuck?
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Ah-ha
How does one sign up for an internship ??!!
You think this fuel pump system is going to work chuck?
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I *think* so. ;D A few questions off the top of my head. I'm a little concerned whether the shut off valve is fuel proof. (?) Can fuel gravity flow through the pump without the engine running? How much pressure does the fuel pump put out? Will it overpower the ability of the float to stop flow? Is the pump necessary at all?
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I really don't know anything about the pump chuck
According to the ADV guys it has a rubber flapper & runs off the pressure pumping in the intake, valve cover, or sump.
Supposedly these are fairly common in all kinds of applications from chainsaws to snow mobiles (as I recall mostly 2-stroke lol)
Anyway I'm game for whatever.. The Breva pulls like a castrated moose so I'll tinker with it till it sings :-)
Supposedly it's rated at 14.1L per hour have no idea how that translates to PSI
Since it's just a rubber paddle pushing the gas I don't think it can develop too much pressure.
I actually have no fracking idea.. But anyone following this thread (I think you are the last trooper at this point lol) knows that already.
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Ps. I'm pretty sure fuel can't flow while the engine is off.. I tried to blow thru it and I could.. But hey that's what the petcock is for! :beer
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Worst case scenario... I can take the flop tube off, cut out the pump, and just run it off the petcock (maintaining at least 1/3rd tank full at all times) until I figure out a solution
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Supposedly it's rated at 14.1L per hour have no idea how that translates to PSI
Liters per hour can't be translated into PSI, but I don't think most vacuum driven fuel pumps put out a lot of pressure.
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I'm with Chuck on spinning devices. Keep all wires, etc. away from them as something gets caught and it becomes a weapon. Vice grips make great weapons btw. Please don't buy a lathe anytime soon. ;-T. I only work with wood, but I've had things fly across the room before. You see this happen and you get to thinking next time around.
I think your fender looks splendid where you taped it off. Good on you for using the tape. That's what I do for a clear view. You only get one chance. Your pump stuff can't comment on. I'd probably use gravity myself because I like simplicity. Your situation may dictate otherwise.
Keep going. Doing well.
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Worst case scenario... I can take the flop tube off, cut out the pump, and just run it off the petcock (maintaining at least 1/3rd tank full at all times) until I figure out a solution
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I would at least try the flop tube and see if it will gravity flow without the pump. I realize that there's not much head pressure, but it might work ok without it.
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Instead of a plastic flop tube why not a metal tube such as auto brake line, keep it low in the tank so it starts to syphon easily and it should keep going until it sucks air. Your plastic tube looks as though it will loop up near the top of tank, I predict it would be hard to start a gravity feed.
I often see dirt bikes with a tube coming out of the filler cap, what's that about?
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Instead of a plastic flop tube why not a metal tube such as auto brake line, keep it low in the tank so it starts to syphon easily and it should keep going until it sucks air. Your plastic tube looks as though it will loop up near the top of tank, I predict it would be hard to start a gravity feed.
I often see dirt bikes with a tube coming out of the filler cap, what's that about?
It's just a tank vent that keeps fuel off your crotch. :o
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Instead of a plastic flop tube why not a metal tube such as auto brake line, keep it low in the tank so it starts to syphon easily and it should keep going until it sucks air. Your plastic tube looks as though it will loop up near the top of tank, I predict it would be hard to start a gravity feed.
I often see dirt bikes with a tube coming out of the filler cap, what's that about?
The tube is quite pliable and the weight of the brass barb + clamp should keep it submerged (I hope)
Also those rigid tubes within the tank that connect the holes in the filler neck down to the vents in the bottom of the tank will keep it over on the left side
Between being pinned to the left by the vent hoses & the weight of the brass fitting.. Hopefully it will stay sunk!
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I got the fender chopped, sanded, and treated the cut edge with Toyota touch up paint
My $35 gasket for the fuel tank bung arrived .. Eek that will take the snap out of your suspenders!
I am struggling with the light wiring now.. Turn signals work but the tail light doesn't at all.
Unfortunately I don't know how to work a multi-meter so time to google & youtube
The light I bought.. In the comments/reviews someone said they has to solder an extra ground wire to the light? It just has two wires.. Black & red..
The tail light I took off just had two wires so I figured it would be good.. Perhaps I mixed up those two.. More fiddling tonight
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If the light is Stop & Tail it must rely on a ground return.
The tail light is normally off a different contact in the ignition switch, they do it that way so it can be on in the Park position. However if you don't plan on using Park you can run it from the headlight fuse.
Take the glass of the light and see if it works when you touch a grounded wire to the bulb socket.
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Ok when we last left I'd taped up the fender to get a feel for the new lines. I used electrical tape cause it goes off and on cleanly and it's pliable enough to curve the lines.
Once the shape was determined I went back and overlapped with a couple layers of masking tape.
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/5A9C6896-EDB3-4766-9605-A47868DAD282_zpsjry12pwl.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/5A9C6896-EDB3-4766-9605-A47868DAD282_zpsjry12pwl.jpg.html)
Then I clamped some scrap to it to keep my lines straight
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/2FB8F6EE-1F47-45C6-82FD-06D9A4AE5284_zpsorrrgn9o.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/2FB8F6EE-1F47-45C6-82FD-06D9A4AE5284_zpsorrrgn9o.jpg.html)
I had never used a die grinder before but I've had my uncle's in the toolbox for ages. It was pretty easy.
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/10F556C6-625A-4365-98C6-954CE8C8DDD4_zpszhbbiujs.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/10F556C6-625A-4365-98C6-954CE8C8DDD4_zpszhbbiujs.jpg.html)
After KiwiRoy's advise I figured out grounding the socket made light worky
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/8DA94EEC-264B-4D46-A337-847BCBA62A18_zpst3v2yizx.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/8DA94EEC-264B-4D46-A337-847BCBA62A18_zpst3v2yizx.jpg.html)
This shows the second time I soldered the extra ground to the bulb socket
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/726B1815-4545-4404-A780-03D7FD63B2C4_zpsa7ijff8l.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/726B1815-4545-4404-A780-03D7FD63B2C4_zpsa7ijff8l.jpg.html)
I know it looks shite but I'm no soldering expert
The first time I used resin core solder with no flux.. Once I painstakingly bound all the wires up & bolted everything down.. The light didn't work. I don't really understand the various types of solder. I opened it back up and the soldered wire had popped off. I sanded the contact point, and used regular solder with flux.. It's tight as a tick now and the light works
Here's how she looks all together
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/34697FA6-747D-4B46-B7AF-AF8016BDC703_zpsf7cy0nms.jpg) (http://s51.photobucket.com/user/captcaliber/media/34697FA6-747D-4B46-B7AF-AF8016BDC703_zpsf7cy0nms.jpg.html)
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Hey man... coming together nicely.
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I don't really understand the various types of solder.
About all you need to know is to never use acid core or acid flux on electrical stuff. Getcha a little can of flux and use resin core (or plain) solder on electrical work.
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Well this week I got it all finally finished (for now! :evil: )
I changed the main jet in the carb to a 125; that was a 10% bump for pod filters and 10% for ethanol gas (I got these numbers from guzziology). It took about 5 weeks to get the jets from Moto Int.. the first jets they sent were 6mm but supposed to be 5mm. They were mismarked somewhere along the way and it took a couple send-backs and calls to get it sorted.
I torqued the heads & set the valves.. I synced the throttle cables as close as I could.
The bike went to Jake Hall at Hall's Custom Vintage here in Asheville where he synched and adjusted the carbs (I dont have sticks). He was also able to get the tach working, and he perfected the adjustment on my clutch with the homemade cable.
I got the seat mounted securely
http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=77831.0
I have ridden it three times now, a couple short jaunts around the neighborhood... Yesterday I took it up the BRP and all through the mountains, about 200mi. It's awesome! the best it has ever run! Back in love! :grin: :bike-037:
In the wild
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/8E984BDB-69A7-4F29-9BF7-81C1E2D8FC2F_zpscuvrahpx.jpg)
As far as I can tell, it just needs 1/8-1/4 turn on the idle screw to be perfect.
My homemade breather is functioning great, but I need to lengthen the exhaust hose, or route it out back instead of under the tank. I have just the slightest mist of oil on the top of the block from the breather
the only issue I still need to resolve is an oil leak from under the timing cover
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/437D71C7-FBE4-44C0-84CB-8CE3FD92963F_zps7lspqxjs.jpg)
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Jake was rolling this fresh restoration out of his shop when I went to pickup my bike, it was immaculate. :drool:
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f365/captcaliber/00B44168-54AB-41A6-A477-D8CA9EC1DF59_zpsrpoxj8qu.jpg)
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Attaboy.. :thumb:
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Great job! Sounds like you have that thing pretty darned sorted. Sounds like a front seal. I don't have any experience with that. Keep an eye on it. Ride it and enjoy it. :thumb:
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You need to do something about those side covers, they don't work.
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You need to do something about those side covers, they don't work.
these were on the bike when I bought it... I think they are pretty good and the white paint the PO used (Toyota Brilliant White) matches the v7 tank pretty damn close! I did have the original sidecovers, but they were beyond trashed. There is deff too much spaghetti under there to run without side covers.
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Great post. So you're to one stuffing bikes into hotel rooms! :laugh:
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The deprivation must have been killing you. Glad you're happy :grin:
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Looks good! How do you like the Café seat?
cr