Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: jcb72 on January 10, 2015, 04:06:36 AM
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Happy NY everyone.
Has anyone fitted an autotune to a v7 2011 ?
I've had both sitting in a box for a while and finally had time to install them, the PCV was easy and also easy to hide but the autotune is not so easy to hide on the V7 as the fat connector doesn't really fit anywhere discreet and its not long enough to hide beside the battery >:(
If anyone has any ideas with pictures i would love to see how they did it ;)
I disabled the 02 sensor with GuzziDiag so im using the same bung "wow how ugly is that big fat crossover".
2 more question for the wise do I take it I don't need the O2 optimizer that came with PCV if i'm using the autotune and O2 sensor (lambda) disabled ?.
Does anyone have a good base Map I can use that's better than stock until I get the bike Dyno'd, I'm running Straight through megaphone pipes.
Thanks
JCB
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What are you hoping to achieve?
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Achieve depends on what question I was asking.
The first is somehow hide the fat connectors from the O2 sensor as its not as easy to on a naked compared to a sports bike, as for the map I guess I should not really need a custom map as the autotune would dynamically do what it wants anyhow,
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Does anyone have a good base Map I can use that's better than stock until I get the bike Dyno'd, I'm running Straight through megaphone pipes.
Thanks
JCB
Mash the link.
http://www.guzzitech.com/store/category/fueling/
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thanks, ive already tried the site and still looking for some answers.
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If your going to have it dyno'd then why install the autotune?
By using the autotune you won't really need it dyno'd if you spend some time accepting fuel trims.
You can always stick the autotune where ever it fits then have the cable plugged into it and can pop the seat, pull the cable out to length to plug into the laptop. Once your done tuning the bike after a few day take the cable off and tuck the autotune wherever it fits.
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How would auto tune work with the O2 sensor disabled?
CWise makes a good point about auto tune vs dyno. They're two different ways around the same square, so both would be redundant.
Vasco is probably getting ready to say that you're not going to make note power.
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I'm not sure about the autotune being disabled, maybe not able to tune the lowest of throttle settings but the other should still work.
Biggest thing I've found is only tune one map per day and keep a not book and write down comments about each map you load with the map name. That way you know what map is working best then you can tune your map table manually and really dial it in. It took awhile for me to figure that out but now I feel I'm pretty handy at it.
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The Autotune O2 sensor works separate from bikes ECU circuit. Sensor is read by AT box not bikes ECU. Shutting off O2 on bikes ECU is proper thing to do for this set up.
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The Autotune O2 sensor works separate from bikes ECU circuit. Sensor is read by AT box not bikes ECU. Shutting off O2 on bikes ECU is proper thing to do for this set up.
Ahhhhh, thank you.
Guess it makes sense that it would have to come with its own O2 sensor so it would be a wide band.
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> 2 more question for the wise do I take it I don't need the O2 optimizer that came with PCV
correct when lambda is disabled in ecu, you don't need the optimizer
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Thanks guys.
So from the reply's it looks liket:
1. In fitting the AutoTune I DO NOT need to install the supplied PCV O2 optimizer.
2. It makes no sense to have the bike Dyno'd for a good base custom map as the Autotune will do its thing and modify it on the fly as I ride.
3. as with point 2 It does not matter about what base map I use, so the default V7 "stock" should be sufficient, and the Autotune will compensate with the open mufflers and any other Mods I add/change example new PipeMaster mufflers, possibly new Crossover.
I'm not looking for extra HP just smoother riding as the weather is so unpredictable here in Melbourne, and I want to keep the bike healthy.
I just think the design of the O2 Sensor that comes with the Autotune is wonky as its near impossible to hide the bloody thing ??? I dont mean Unit itself as that just tucks away under the seat with the PCV, its the fat connector that joins the O2 sensor to the Autotune I just have no where to hide it that keep it tucked away, protected from rain etc, and its not long enough to hide behind side panel or under seat.
cheers
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I've fitted a PC-V and Autotune to my 2011 V7R. All your points above are correct.
I found that following the advice from Dynojet in this Youtube video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOi9NHRv7jE) helped a great deal, for me at least. I had very little playing time this summer to fool with the Autotune values but I did find that a AFR of 13.4 or 13.6 made the bike very smooth. I'm using stock everything, including mufflers.
BTW, I fitted the PC-V right beside the battery (towards the tail) using a piece of industrial-grade velcro to fasten it securely to the battery compartment. I placed the large connector and Autotune in the space under the seat just beside the fuse box. I also permanently installed a usb cable to the PC-V and leave it under the seat. There's even room left over under the seat for me to stash my disk brake lock.
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I already have the Lambda disabled, I have another problem at the moment the pcv and the autotune both power up and I can see them using the software, however the bike will not start now ? I cannot see what the problem could be.
when I remove replace the original cables back in to the injectors the bike starts ?.
Ive checked all the cables and everything that needs to be grounded is connected to the negative of the battery and I connected the autotune to the yellow wire (tail light).
Anyone got any ideas.
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Fixed the starting issues :D no i'm not going to tell you how as its embarrassing, and I should have read the manual.
Anyways all good just need to take it out for a spin.
RBM when you loaded the map did you notice there was an awful lot of 0 and trim was nothing but ?, was that the same for you ?.
I take it that I do not need to adjust anything in the software apart from enabling the autotune ?
cheers
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My suggestion is set the values between 13.4 and 13.6 then take it out and ride it, after that you'll see the fuel trims on the autotune side of things starting to change. Accept those trims. Over the course of 4 or 5 long rides and accepting the trims things should be getting close.
The is a nice thread on Guzzitech you should read up on!
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JCB, Yes, I did notice a large number of zeros and no trim values. That is the base fuel map in the PCV that gets modified by the Autotune. The zeros means PCV will not modify the AFR issued by the ECU. Using the interface, set your target AFRs (13.4-13.6) in the cells of the fueling map that you wish Autotune to attempt modification. Take the motorcycle out for a long ride, using a variety of throttle openings and gearing so that Autotune gets to modify fueling throughout the map. When you next go in, the trim map will have trim values assigned (these are the differences to the ECU fueling that will bring the actual fueling to the target fueling). If you notice anomalies with the performance of the motorcycle, adjust the base map to add or remove target fueling to suit. When your adjustments are finally correct, accept the trims.
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RBM does accepting the trims mean that the autotune is just replacing the the values in the base PCV base map?.
From reading the main PCV section on guzzitech I had the impression that autune would just continually tune the fuel day to day in all riding conditions if this is the case why accept the trims when it could change when the weather changes ?.
I did not get a chance to take the bike out as I damaged the TPS wire whilst adding the PCV (cut to close to the connector) so I need to find another connector :(
cheers
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Yes, it replaces the values in the PC-V map. What you've done by accepting the trims is to take a snapshot of the fueling at a point in time and made it relatively permanent. That way, it _could_ be possible to remove the Autotune device and still enjoy all the benefits of an improved fueling.
However, with the Autotune still connected, the Autotune continues to monitor the wideband O2 sensor and adjust fueling. If you don't change the fuel map targets in the PC-V, it is highly unlikely that the Autotune would alter any of its trim values. You're correct in stating that possible atmospheric variables would cause trim changes.
It is possible to add a SPDT switch to the PC-V to switch between the current map and the last saved map, so that you can compare any changes in fueling. For example, let's say you transfer the current trim values and then adjust the fueling targets at low throttle openings with the intent to improve idle and cold start characteristics. Then using the switch you can instantly compare performance before and after your change to see if the intended change was beneficial or detrimental.
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thanks, its all making sense now.
Is the electrical connector that joins the O2 sensor to the Autotune unit waterproof ? it does not look like it and I'm worried as it will not fit anywhere safe i.e under seat or in side panel as the PC O2 sensor cable is too short.
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It's no worse than any other automotive style connector. It's weather resistant but not waterproof. I wouldn't worry.
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I have this exact set up, in addition to a Shorai battery, much, much smaller than stock thus allowing plenty of room under the seat.
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Sorry lagastra I think I may be confusing you in regards to what component I'm meaning.
Its not the actual Autotune Unit (which sits easily next to the PCV and tucks away under the seat, my issue is the plastic connectors that connect the probe to autotune as its not long enough to reach the seat or the battery compartment for that matter.
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JCB, Yes, I did notice a large number of zeros and no trim values. That is the base fuel map in the PCV that gets modified by the Autotune. The zeros means PCV will not modify the AFR issued by the ECU. Using the interface, set your target AFRs (13.4-13.6) in the cells of the fueling map that you wish Autotune to attempt modification. Take the motorcycle out for a long ride, using a variety of throttle openings and gearing so that Autotune gets to modify fueling throughout the map. When you next go in, the trim map will have trim values assigned (these are the differences to the ECU fueling that will bring the actual fueling to the target fueling). If you notice anomalies with the performance of the motorcycle, adjust the base map to add or remove target fueling to suit. When your adjustments are finally correct, accept the trims.
I'm still a bit confused on the autotune setup.
I selected get map and changed the 13.2 to 13.4 and in the cells that where in the cruise range I set to 13.6 I also set 2 rows of the cells that where set to 0 in the throttle %25 %40 to 5250 RPM to 13.4.
When I got back from my ride and loaded the map and looked at the trim, the only cell that changed was 100% throttle at 1500rpm and was changed to -0, does this seem correct ? as I would have expected to see a lot more values changing
as for AFR that was originally set to 0 am I not meant to change this to 13.4 am I supposed to leave this as 0 ?
There is also a video in youtube where the lad fixes his rough idle by adding a value in the low idle range that was originally set to 0, after changing the value it fixed the rough idle, my question is is this ok to do with the V7.
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My experience has been that the trim map values change significantly through Autotune, so I'm perplexed by the lack of changes that you are seeing. You did mention an installation problem with the TPS, I believe. Could there still be a problem?
Not sure what AFR originally set to zero you are talking about.
I'd first make sure that any rough idle you may be having is not caused by (1) valve maladjustment (2) air leakage in the intake track (3) TBs being unsynchronized. If you eliminate those possible causes, then adding the fueling in the low throttle range could improve idle, at the expense of poorer fuel economy. I added some 5% to my V7 in that range.
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Naa the TPS fixed itself after I fixed and installed the new connector I broke.
its not that the idle is rough it just seems low around the 800rpm range "its probably normal", as for "the AFR set to 0" question.. in my base AFR table am I not meant to change any cells that have a 0 ? as I seem to have 0s (not including first 2 rows) from 500rpm @ 5% throttle, to 5250rpm @ 40% throttle which seem like a lot of cells that can not be modified.
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Have you seen this video (http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/Support/powercommander_video_install_guides.aspx#ytplayer)?
Your target AFR map should have values of 13.2-13.6 in the cells from 10% throttle @ 1500 RPM onwards. If your target map is mostly zeros, then Autotune will not be able to adjust trim table values in those cells. It sounds like the target AFR table is not correct from your description.
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Ok I added 13.4 in those cells saved it then went for a ride, still no changes showing in the trim table, perhaps I need to go for a really long ride or let it gather its data over a week of general riding ?.
I set all the cells you mentioned to 13.4 as was not sure which ones need to be 13.6.
Funny thing is the Idle has gotten worse, it now feels like its going to stall and this is only with the Powercommander connected, with it disconnected its fine (just)
is it best using guzzidiag and adjust the CO trim for the idle i.e jump up from say 0 to +20 or is it best using the power commander and put something like 13.8 in the cell ?.
I just set the CO trim in guzzidiag back to 0 as it was set to +10 its seems to bet better on idle for now.
cheers
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Your 800 RPM idle is too low; it should be around 1100-1200 RPM. Things I'd try:
- double check throttle body balance and mechanical idle speed adjustment. Once you're happy these are to factory specs, then ...
- reset the TPS, using Guzzidiag for the ECU and do the same in the Dynojet software for the PC=V
- calibrate the throttle in the PC-V
I'd not touch CO levels in Guzzidiag before you have eliminated mechanical problems or mal-adjustments as a possible source for the low idle speed. And I think you can get the same effect as CO trim by adding AFR targets in the low throttle columns on the Autotune. My personal preference is to leave the ECU alone as much as possible, but you may have a different view.
As for the trims, they should begin to change almost immediately. When I was initially testing my setup, I'd just take a 2 minute ride around the neighbourhood, using as much range on the throttle as I dare. I'd see immediate updating of the trim table when I returned. A long ride or a week's data collection should not be necessary.
If you are still not getting satisfaction with the PC-V / Autotune, then maybe a call to technical support at Dynojet is needed.
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Thanks RBM
I was in NZ for a few days catching up with some friends so have not had time to make those adjustments.
how do I check throttle body balance and mechanical idle speed adjustment ?
Last time I had a go at getting the autotune wasThursday.
I put 13.2 in the 0 row at 1000 RPM and after about 30 seconds the green autotune light came on in the software I then started to see the AFR climbing and trying to reach the 13.2 value, after which I checked the trim table and there was a -13 in the cell.
so the Autotune module appears to be working, it just will not work for any cells where I have to engage the gears :(
When I spoke to a dynotec tech he advised "Auto tune is not functioning at 0% throttle. Auto tune requires a flow of exhaust going past the oxygen sensors"
This does not make sense to me as the exhaust fumes must be getting picked up by the 02 sensor at 0% throttle or it would not have started to increase the AFR which it clearly did.
???
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Well autotune should work at any rpm, as long as you have a target AFR value. Gears have nothing to do with it. If you rew it in nutral, it will work, not that that is usefull. Set target values, and go for a drive.
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how do I check throttle body balance and mechanical idle speed adjustment ?
I sent you a private mssg about the throttle body balance, but forgot to mention the mechanical idle speed adjust. Don't even try. Unlike many bikes, mainly older ones, there is no provision for a mechanical idle adjust (i.e. no set screws, etc). Many of the throttle body screws you see are set by the factory (esp. one known as the "sacred screw") and messing with them will lead you down a dark road.
That's my view, but I'm open ideas. I've never even heard of a modern Guzzi 750 with such low idle. I'm curious now. Probably an AutoTune issue. I'm unfamiliar with that unit.
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Well autotune should work at any rpm, as long as you have a target AFR value. Gears have nothing to do with it. If you rew it in nutral, it will work, not that that is usefull. Set target values, and go for a drive.
Never having even seen an actual PCV I'm just guessing here, but from what I've read about the configuration possibilities, you have the choice to set the target AFR for different throttle/RPM combinations either for each gear individually, or for all gears. Is it possible that there's some kind of box in the settings menu that requires you to say "apply target AFR to all gears". ? Could it be that the Target AFRs the OP has keyed in only apply to neutral and the AT doesn't see any value otherwise?
Just a wild guess!
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how do I check throttle body balance and mechanical idle speed adjustment ?
Thanks for the PM to the OP sign216. OP, you might want to see if you can get a motorcycle shop to perform these adjustments if you lack the tools or knowledge. I can't go into the details of the process because it is involved.
I put 13.2 in the 0 row at 1000 RPM and after about 30 seconds the green autotune light came on in the software I then started to see the AFR climbing and trying to reach the 13.2 value, after which I checked the trim table and there was a -13 in the cell. so the Autotune module appears to be working, it just will not work for any cells where I have to engage the gears :(
Yes, it is apparent that the Autotune is functioning as designed and reading the O2 sensor. If the higher RPM ranges are not causing a change to the trim table, it seems to me to still be pointing to the Lambda setting in the ECU. But, you are emphatic that this has been changed so that the OEM ECU ignores the O2 sensor below 40%. Very odd. Is there value in confirming this setting?
When I spoke to a dynotec tech he advised "Auto tune is not functioning at 0% throttle. Auto tune requires a flow of exhaust going past the oxygen sensors"
What a next-to-useless advice. There is a flow of exhaust across the O2 sensor given its position in the crossover tube (albeit low velocity).
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Never having even seen an actual PCV I'm just guessing here, but from what I've read about the configuration possibilities, you have the choice to set the target AFR for different throttle/RPM combinations either for each gear individually, or for all gears. Is it possible that there's some kind of box in the settings menu that requires you to say "apply target AFR to all gears". ? Could it be that the Target AFRs the OP has keyed in only apply to neutral and the AT doesn't see any value otherwise?
Just a wild guess!
There is no config option in the Autotune to adjust the trim table values based on AFR target settings and gearing. The PC-V has an ability to set gear shift points, which you manually program into the unit. These shift points work in conjunction with another Dynojet product called Quickshifter. Quickshifter understands from your programming when the optimal shift RPM has been reached (by data feed from the PC-V) and unloads the transmission for the rider to perform a clutchless shift.
The Autotune is not aware of gearing, it is only aware of engine RPM (via RPM data input from the PC-V) and throttle opening (via TPS). It reads a wide band O2 sensor for feedback that causes minor adjustments to be made to the primary fuel table based on a pre-programmed target AFR settings. The PC-V is modifying the ECU injector timing to come up with the optimal injector open time based on AFR targets in the Autotune unit. The OP's problem seems to be that the Autotune is not adjusting PC-V fuel table values in the range below 40% throttle opening.
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Yes, it is apparent that the Autotune is functioning as designed and reading the O2 sensor. If the higher RPM ranges are not causing a change to the trim table, it seems to me to still be pointing to the Lambda setting in the ECU. But, you are emphatic that this has been changed so that the OEM ECU ignores the O2 sensor below 40%. Very odd. Is there value in confirming this setting?
Do you mean confirming that the O2 sensor has been disabled using guzzidiag and TunnerPro ? I can verify that the Tunnerpro map has the Lambda check box empty and that its been loaded on to the V7, is there a way I can tell within Guzzidiag software whilst the bike is running ?
The only adjustments that Ive done via guzzidiag and tunnerpro is disable Lambda, reset TPS, recommendations from Pauldaytona in changing the values in the 01-Fuel Map , which entered 0 in a range off cells in the lower rev ranges (help stop pop on decel).
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There is no config option in the Autotune to adjust the trim table values based on AFR target settings and gearing. The PC-V has an ability to set gear shift points, which you manually program into the unit. These shift points work in conjunction with another Dynojet product called Quickshifter. Quickshifter understands from your programming when the optimal shift RPM has been reached (by data feed from the PC-V) and unloads the transmission for the rider to perform a clutchless shift.
The Autotune is not aware of gearing, it is only aware of engine RPM (via RPM data input from the PC-V) and throttle opening (via TPS). It reads a wide band O2 sensor for feedback that causes minor adjustments to be made to the primary fuel table based on a pre-programmed target AFR settings. The PC-V is modifying the ECU injector timing to come up with the optimal injector open time based on AFR targets in the Autotune unit. The OP's problem seems to be that the Autotune is not adjusting PC-V fuel table values in the range below 40% throttle opening.
The AT is not aware of gearing, but the PCV can be. On the PC website it says "Gear input (allows for map adjustment based on gear and speed)",: but that would require a map per gear. As I say I'm just guessing, but if the settings are somehow messed up and the PC/AT is looking for a map per gear to adjust, and that map isn't there, then it won't be able to make any adjustments.
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well what is the problem anyway, set target afr in all field, no matter what, can be adjusted afterwards, and go for a drive, 20 miles. And tell what it says
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Paul ive done this already i.e ive entered a value of 13.4 in all the cells and gone for a number of rides now and there is no changes registering in the trim, it still reads 0 in all fields ?.
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Do you mean confirming that the O2 sensor has been disabled using guzzidiag and TunnerPro ? I can verify that the Tunnerpro map has the Lambda check box empty and that its been loaded on to the V7, is there a way I can tell within Guzzidiag software whilst the bike is running ?
That's what I meant. AFAIK, Tunerpro is used to turn off Lambda. There is no feature of Guzzidiag that provides that capability. I know Guzzidiag can display Lambda but I can't say whether that confirms it being turned off or no.
I'm out of ideas. You have done all that I have, yet you're experiencing this problem. Don't know what else to suggest.
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Paul ive done this already i.e ive entered a value of 13.4 in all the cells and gone for a number of rides now and there is no changes registering in the trim, it still reads 0 in all fields ?.
well, i've never seen such a device, call dynojet support. It does show afr values? It's not that you have to enable the autotune somewhere?
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JCB72,
Just thought of something. Have you tried the verification test on the O2 sensor as described in the install manual?
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-aOO2pZPDOZk/VMouDfyyn8I/AAAAAAAAEQM/PLQY3ssse-Q/s640/O2%2520sensor%2520test.png)
Your sensor might not be feeding information back to the Autotune. This test will confirm operation of the sensor.
Also, you have installed the AT-200 model of Autotune, right?
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I removed the O2 sensor and run the test and it only blinks once indicating that the sensor is functioning correctly, its gets bloody hot though I thought it would switch off when the engine is off but this must not be the case as I have had the bike off for the last couple of days and its still roasting.
I was worried about the heat but found a post on a yamaha forum stating that its normal.
and yes its the AT-200
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They do get hot, but that should only happen when the ignition is on. If your sensor is hot after days of having the bike standing, then you've got it wired up wrongly. The power supply for heating must only be active with ignition on. Sounds like you have yours connected straight to the battery.
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Nope its connected to the back light, the ground is connected to the negative of the battery as recommended.
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Damn :-[ just noticed something that may be causing the autotune from working and probably the PCV in general.
"Calibrate TPS" is screwed I calibrated and dont think I was meant to have a fly-by-wire throttle. Ive gone in and it was wrong and now throttle shows 100% at idle.
Any one got any idea's how to fix this without a dyno minimum voltage is set to 0.004 and max is 0.006 and now its stuck even after a reset.
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Nope its connected to the back light, the ground is connected to the negative of the battery as recommended.
Imagine how long your battery will last if it's heating the sensor all the time! It should not be hot if the bike has been standing for days with the ignition off. Something is wired wrongly.
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I got it wrong the o2 sensor shuts off, it just heats up very very quickly when the ignition is on.
RBM I reset the TPS and seems I was not supposed to do that oops.
I cant remember what the default one was set to is it possible that you could stick a PC on your PCV and check whats yours MIN and MAX is set to.
cheers
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jcb,
It's not possible at the moment because the bike is asleep for the winter. Battery's taken out, fuel tank is off and everything is stuffed in the back of the garage. Sorry.
I do have some screenshots of Guzzidiag with throttle voltages though that might help.
Values of Throttle and Corrected Throttle after a TPS reset when throttle fully open (https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/KNXrcZrJ3iFELafrqwK-rtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink)
Values of Throttle and Corrected Throttle after a TPS reset when throttle is returned to rest position (https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/HQTUS8qflM3Ei867ugiTsNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink)
There is a throttle calibration procedure for the PC-V. Are you saying that procedure is producing invalid settings on the PC-V?
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Yes invalid readings, and when I tried to de a reset etc following the guide on youtube the TPS now shows 100% at closed throttle ?.
And no matter what I do I cant fix this, I then found a some information that you are not meant to set this on fly-by-wire throttles as it has to be dyno.
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Then, I'd say your have a problem with the connection to the TPS and I think you have to investigate your wiring. I remember on my V7 that the throttle calibration screen shows the TPS voltage varying as the throttle is twisted. If you're showing 100% that means the TPS voltage is reading 4.9V at the TPS tap. IIRC, there is one Brown/Yellow, one Brown/White and one Grey wire in the bundle coming from the TPS. I first tapped into the one Brown/White by mistake and my PC-V didn't function properly; it seemed to be the same colour as the other brown wire. I then tapped into the Brown/Yellow and it worked.
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Ive just gone in through Guzzidiag and checked my min max tps, they are a little different to yours which is suprising, my min is set to 0.510 and when I open the throttle to full it jumps to 4.194.
So Ive entered these values and they have set the throttle % back to 0 at idle where it should be, the only thing that is strange now is that when the bike is running and software connected when I turn the throttle it still reads 0 %, should it not change here ? this is why I think its not engaging the autotune as its always set to 0% throttle.
I now think the issue is not with the autotune device but with the PCV itself, from watching youtube video's when opening the throttle the throttle indicator on the software should show an increase in value as you twist the value this I'm not seeing.
I just checked the TPS splice to ensure I correctly connected the PCV into the TPS and when I removed it I checked the calibration and the voltage began to climb all the way to the maximum value (throttle was closed).
I then connected it backup again and it was back to showing 0% very strange.
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I think you are right it must be something to do with the tap, thing is when I put in a new plug I had to cut fresh wires, so all the colours are different so I caannot remember what wire goes where lol, trial and error I think.
Getting there.
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I just checked and I'm tapped in to the Grey wire per the instructions, I'll give it a try and tap into the brown/yellow and see what happens.
cheers
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Ive just gone in through Guzzidiag and checked my min max tps, they are a little different to yours which is suprising, my min is set to 0.510 and when I open the throttle to full it jumps to 4.194.
A TPS reset from within Guzzidiag at this point in time will recalibrate the TPS closed position within the ECU. In other words, it will recalibrate the ECU's understanding of the voltage corresponding to closed position of the TPS. This should be around 4.7° and the TPS should emit about 0.4V. You'll notice that the best I could achieve on my V7 was 0.451V and 6.7°. Oh well.
So Ive entered these values and they have set the throttle % back to 0 at idle where it should be .....
So, I guess you're doing this value entry from within the TPS Calibration dialog of the PC-V software (DEVICE TOOLS - CALIBRATE - TPS CALIBRATION). Right? My recollection was that I started the calibration in PC-V, then twisted the throttle through its full range and then stopped calibration. The PC-V read the lowest and highest voltages achieved and set the idle / WOT accordingly.
..... the only thing that is strange now is that when the bike is running and software connected when I turn the throttle it still reads 0 %, should it not change here ? this is why I think its not engaging the autotune as its always set to 0% throttle.
So, now I believe you are viewing the main display of PC-V and viewing the realtime display on the far right side. Right? And you're expecting the %throttle to vary in realtime in sympathy with the way you're twisting the throttle. Right? I believe you are corect; the realtime display on the right should display the instantaneous throttle % open as you twist the throttle. If it does not do this, then the PC-V is not receiving TPS changes. This is the only way that the PC-V (and Autotune) can understand where the throttle is positioned.
I just want to get my bearings because all the pronouns in the sentence is confusing me.
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lol my apologies, i am one of those unfortunates that write with an accent "scottish" but yes RBM you are correct, in all your translations.
I have just followed your advice and connected the yellow/brown wire as the splice tap into the TPS and the throttle now increases in the PCV software when I open the throttle, I'm going to take it out for a ride and see what happens but I have a strong feeling that this could be it :).
I'll update when I get back.
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Fixed ;D
RBM it was the splice in to the TPS that was incorrect, I took the bike out and noticed a difference right away in that all popping on decel stopped. and the bike ran a lot smoother.
I just got back and hooked the laptop up to PCV checked the trims and there it was finally "variations" I wont except any trims for at least another weeks riding and see what happens.
Thanks everyone for your contributions on getting PCV and Auto tune working, RBM your a legend.
Next mod is a pair of PipeMaster Mufflers from Brisbane, before I get stopped as the ones I have sound like Rolls Royce Jet Engine lol.
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JCB,
You're welcome. I'm glad that your problems are all fixed and the PC-V/Autotune is working as expected. Happy riding.