Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: redrider on March 02, 2015, 04:42:01 PM
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Apology in advance. This may ramble a bit. The V11 came to me with an intermittent no start condition. 18 months in, I have discovered the following:
Turning the bars while holding the button reveals a sweet spot. Dash indicators stay lit until I find the spot.
The spot changes with temperature.
Some times, fuses pop. Either the #4 15A or the #6 5A. (from L to R) 4 used since the bike came here.
I have noticed the harness at the switch looks troubled in it's routing- should it be zip tied to the switch body? Other brands do this.
Today, it repeated its malady, popping #6. Replaced and no crank but the solenoid was clicking, dash lights go out when pressing the button. No amount of bar turning worked. Called AAA. After 20 min or so, I tried again and Voila! Cancelled AAA. Made a couple of errands without drama, had lunch, came home and she lit 3 times with no bar input. Call me stumped. Lucky to have a new Valeo on the Mille to transplant because I'm leaning that way.
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Which V11 are you referring to?
The spine frame bikes have a well documented bullet connector issue that responds to moving the bars.
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif
Item 59 "Clutch switch bullet connectors"
I have never seen these mythical connectors but my bike showed the symptoms for a while but then it fixed itself
Electricians bike, what can I say?
Also when you get a chance check the wires going to the ignition switch, if they twist near the switch they will eventually snap, they should be strapped to something at the switch (I don't think it's the problem in this case)
(http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/Kiwi_Roy/Ignition%20Switch/Ignition%20Switch%20Wire_zpsydmxfcfv.jpg)
You can see the Black wire has snapped off and the Red shows signs of going the same way. The point where it's soldered is the weakest spot, it will break every time if it's flexing there.
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Had a similar problem on the V7C - but the dash lights stayed dead until turning the handlebars found the sweet spot. Got home, 8km, but only just. Turned out to be the ignition switch - heat (from a short - the contacts showed slight burning) had melted & mildly distorted the white plastic holder for the contacts. Replaced the ignition (actually got the lock set, no ignitions in the country at the time) and have had no problems since.
The only nuisance was removing the old ignition from the top triple clamp - Guzzi install it with an "anti-theft" shear bolt which required an ezi-out to remove - from memory it's the same on the V11 Le Mans.
Good luck,
Mal
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Yes the lock set is fitted with anti-theft screws but the switch block is held on by 2 normal screws, Phillips from memory, they are around the back, hard to see.
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There are a couple of bullet connectors on the left side up by the steering neck that you really ought to look at.. take apart, shoot them with DeOxit, wiggle them around....
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That's a good picture of bad soldering. I'd expect that to vibrate and break. Same thing happens to those old bosch alternators -- break at the overheated, over doused solder joint. At least strain relieve it.
Those anti-theft screws come out as fast as regular ones do.
(http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd10/rodekyll1/littlepliars_zps36a34607.jpg) (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/rodekyll1/media/littlepliars_zps36a34607.jpg.html)
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There are a couple of bullet connectors on the left side up by the steering neck that you really ought to look at.. take apart, shoot them with DeOxit, wiggle them around....
Thanks Chuck, you just saved my buddy's V11S :thumb: