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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: ksd124 on March 25, 2015, 12:32:55 AM
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Hi everyone,
Does anyone know if there is a specific/preferred running in procedure for new Gilardoni cylinders, pistons and rings?
Thanks for any advice you can give. Cheers,
Kelvin
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I would use a lighter weight non synthetic oil.
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Run it hard with a load on it, keeping in mind temps. You want it warmed up a little when you start to flog it and not to overheat it. Just run it normally but keep a load on it and not at steady rpms. I don't know if Gilardoni has a recommended way or not.
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My procedure
New 20w/50 VR1
1st heat cycle 10 minutes
Cool overnight, remove oil Pam and inspect, re torque heads, change oil and filter
2nd heat cycle warm for 2 or 3 minutes
Ride for 10 miles, new oil and filter
Ride 100 to 150 miles including several heat cool cycles then change oil filter again and re torque heads
Ride normally and change oil every 3 k
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I broke mine in using Vavoline 20-50 and still use it. Just attempted to vary my rpm and not run it up to redline until I had about 500 miles on it. After about 35K miles now it runs great and does not use any oil.
GliderJohn
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I might also add that the motor likes it's oil level right in the middle of the full and low mark. If I fill it to the full line it will puke it out until it reaches the middle again.
GliderJohn
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What Glider John says will work well. The only thing I do differently is the first start and idle 30 seconds and then walk away for about an hour to let the thing cool to ambient. Then start and ride immediately to get some air flowing over it.
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Strangely enough.. when I put a new cylinder from Millineum on the Lario, their instructions were to start it and let idle for 15 minutes. :o I did that with fear and trepidation (and a box fan blowing on it). Seemed to work.
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Strangely enough.. when I put a new cylinder from Millineum on the Lario, their instructions were to start it and let idle for 15 minutes. :o I did that with fear and trepidation (and a box fan blowing on it). Seemed to work.
I do that while I twiddle the carbs and ignition, then let it cool down completely. Retorque, adjust the valves and then go for a ride. On my test loop there's a few long, fairly steep hills. I run the bike up those one gear too high with lots of throttle to "load" the rings.
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My procedure
New 20w/50 VR1
1st heat cycle 10 minutes
Cool overnight, remove oil Pam and inspect, re torque heads, change oil and filter
2nd heat cycle warm for 2 or 3 minutes
Ride for 10 miles, new oil and filter
Ride 100 to 150 miles including several heat cool cycles then change oil filter again and re torque heads
Ride normally and change oil every 3 k
Lance, do you think this routine is a wee bit over the top?
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Thanks all. It seems general consensus is start, warm, cool, torque & valve clearances. Then run in as you might for most motors - vary revs, keep some load on, don't over rev until a few hundred miles under your belt. Cheers.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Lance, do you think this routine is a wee bit over the top?
Maybe a smidge but in the grand scheme of thing VR1 and UFI filters are cheap. Drinking beer and working in the garage priceless.
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After I put the heads on, I like to let it set overnight and retorque the heads before starting it for the first time. You'd be surprised to see how much it compresses just sitting there cold. Then I don't have to retorque until five or so heat cycles. Works for me anyway.
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Ever seem like the more you work on Guzzi's the more problems occur? I wouldn't get too anal about it and hit the basics. I think it's a pretty basic science. Like the guy that said if he has a Guzzi sit for three weeks he empties the tank of gas and uses it in the lawnmower and puts fresh gas in the Guzzi. REALLY! The lawnmower is fine but it's not good for the Guzzi??? I started my ex's Guzzi after 3 yrs. of sitting with NO Stabil and it ran fine. I think there's a wee bit of overthinking stuff. I wouldn't waiste good oil on a 5 minute startup personally. I believe in heat cycles and run-in and re-torque/adjust valves. Then keep a load on it and don't over-rev for a few hundred miles. Then have fun and don't touch the bike for awhile.
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I had Total Seal make me piston rings for my LM IV. I just spoke with them about Nikasil cylinder break-in at length. To put not too fine a point on it, just go out and beat them.
I have to consider a new cam and lifters, so I asked about that; they said break in the cam as necessary, don't worry about the rings. Once the cam is serviced, then go out and load up the rings; they said a dynomometer is best, or just ride the crap out of it for a while. Use WD40 to lube the rings and pistons for fire-up, use only petroleum oil until the rings are well-seated then you can run synthetic if you like.
Simple and worry-free.
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My procedure
New 20w/50 VR1
1st heat cycle 10 minutes
Cool overnight, remove oil Pam and inspect, re torque heads, change oil and filter
2nd heat cycle warm for 2 or 3 minutes
Ride for 10 miles, new oil and filter
Ride 100 to 150 miles including several heat cool cycles then change oil filter again and re torque heads
Ride normally and change oil every 3 k
I now know why the US is so dependant on foreign oil supplies.
Ciao
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I now know why the US is so dependant on foreign oil supplies.
Ciao
Well, Phil.. not everyone in the US is *quite* that anal.. ;D
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Strangely enough.. when I put a new cylinder from Millineum on the Lario, their instructions were to start it and let idle for 15 minutes. :o I did that with fear and trepidation (and a box fan blowing on it). Seemed to work.
Strange indeed, what new rings need is some load on them to get them to seat, I wouldnt recommend idling.
Knew a big Japanese factory team mechanic ( ex just about every famous rider you could name including Hailwood) that upon seeing another mechanic starting a new race engine in the shop and noting the engine blowing a bit of smoke took the bike and put the front wheel against the shop wall put it in gear, revved the engine and slipped the clutch for 10 seconds or so and it stopped the exhaust smoke.
Hard on the clutch obviously but some combustion pressure was needed to help the initial ring seal. Still needed track or Dyno time to finish the job and a set of clutch plates but better than glazed bores and another strip down.
Whenever warranty claims are lodged with regard to oil useage it's always the babied bikes that are the ones affected.
My recommendation..... .just ride it in a sporting fashion, change the oil and filter at a thousand Kim's and then as usual. Would vary this with a full rebuilt or a race motor.
Ciao
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Is my procedure akin to killing flies with a sledgehammer....... yep sure is. However 3 oil filters and 9 quarts of VR1 cost me exactly $55.10. Pretty inexpensive compared to the $800 spent on Gilardoni's and related gaskets. Plus it also makes the guy who burns my waste oil happy.
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Well, Phil.. not everyone in the US is *quite* that anal.. ;D
I know Chuck, it's all down to perazzimx14.
I personally own a total of 14.5 litres of internal combustion engines, so I am obviously quite sensitive about wasting oil resources. I need people to act frugally so there's some left for me.
Ciao
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Thanks again everyone.