Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: harryzet on April 21, 2015, 02:35:26 AM
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dear all
greetings from austria :-)
my problem: i have a 2014 guzzi v7 special - but as you will know, it runs on the very lean side. i have installed k+n airfilter and an open exhaust and want the bike to run fatter, without spending a fortune for remapping (which is btw not available in austria), new ecu or the like. i am quite experienced in soldering cables, though. do any of you have a cheap solution, like soldering in a resistor in some cables leading to the ecu or something like this? any help appreciated. and sorry for my english :-(
harald
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Take off all the horrible shit you've put on it and it will run nicely. None of the horrible shit will make it any faster and you yourself have found that it was a waste of money that made your bike run like crap.
Eventually I hope, with the aid of others cleverer than I, to be able to find a way of cracking the issue of re-mapping so that the bike can be made to run better than it does but it will STILL RUN BETTER WITH THE STOCK AIR FILTER AND IF YOU WANT A DIFFERENT EXHAUST AT LEAST RUN IT WITH A dB KILLER BECAUSE THE ENGINE WILL RUN BETTER.
Rexxer have cracked the coding but if you want a proper map built you will need it to be custom built. There is one other option but knowing what is involved in the 'Reflashes' sold there I wouldn't recommend it as an option.
While not certain I would guess that the stock maps are rich, not lean. Turning off the Lamda will result in overfuelling in most areas. This is the way it is with almost all previous WM ECU's with narrow band O2 sensor control. While the MUIG3 controller is different I wouldn't expect the basic premise to be different. I could be wrong. I doubt it.
Pete
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i have a db-killer installed. but thats not the topic. i just want to find a cheap solution, so that it runs fatter. it has also stalled when it was in factory condition, so thats not the problem
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Yup, so it's not set up right or has an underlying problem.
With the greatest of respect I cannot see why people want to make a V7 noisy or try to extract more 'Power' out of it! The design of the heads precludes easy, useful, gains in outright power. The main aim seems to be to make the machine *Sound* something other than what it is. That also seems to tie in with being a noisy oaf who can irritate other people so that they can be 'Looked At'.
Look, if that's important for you? Go fer your life! I just think its a silly, annoying, waste of money that will eventually impact on my enjoyment of motorcycling as it will encourage the enactment of poorly thought out and crappy laws by populist governments. I think it's puerile and it sucks.
Pete
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Vasco, I'm surprised at your snappy disposition today, usually you're much mellower. Hemorrhoids acting up, I'd guess. ;D
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i have a db-killer installed. but thats not the topic. i just want to find a cheap solution, so that it runs fatter. it has also stalled when it was in factory condition, so thats not the problem
Maybe some background information will help.
First, Pete is worried about shortcuts like Oxygen Sensor foolers which he has seen on some Guzzi models cause over-fueling to the point of washing the oil off the cylinder walls and seizing the motor.
Secondly, Pete is, in his delicate Australian way (meaning even less subtle than a fat American tourist with socks and sandals) is trying to tell you that we've seen people piss away money and effort trying to get more horsepower out of a smallblock and generally fail.
Some people here in the states have had the Rexxer remap on bikes with slightly modified intake/exhaust and have seen something like only 1-2 hp additional on the dyno.
Pete is basically of the opinion, and I generally share it despite the almost mass hysteria of motorcycle owners who quickly rush to modify their brand new bikes to "run better", that there is nothing wrong with an EFI bike running a little hotter and leaner than it's carbureted predecessors. As a matter of fact there is some evidence (again Pete has seen) that these bikes are generally designed to cool so efficiently that OVERCOOLING can be an issue (he's seen seized motors where the oil was moisture contaminated in cool/damp climates/conditions).
As for "stalling" - you'll have to give us more info. At least in the US a number of us have found that the modern single-throttle body (1TB) Smallblocks can be a bit fussy after a cold start. I've found that I generally need to let it idle for a minute or two or I will likely stall. But once I'm past that point the bike runs absolutely fine all day.
I BELIEVE the issue of the cold starts is NOT lean mixture, so much as the ride-by-wire system attempting to maintain a steady idle either with throttle and/or ignition timing changes. As a matter of fact, it starts to easily I cannot imagine it is anywhere NEAR lean at that point in the fuel mapping/running cycle.
SUMMARY:
* DON'T modify it expect more power or much different performance
* DON'T use cheap 02 sensor fooling devices (resistors)
* DON'T worry about it running like a lean modern bike.
* DON'T expect to open the exhaust completely and for it to not run like a turd (unless perhaps you go Rexxer)
Now if you've got some other stalling issue, then bring it up and perhaps someone can be of help, but generally speaking these new models shouldn't require much of anything, unless something is broken.
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dear all, i appreciate all your help. sorry that i didnt make it clear: i do NOT look for more power. but i am pissed off by the bikes behaviour, be it with or without k+n/different exhaust. you see: i live in the middle of vienna and on my way to work etc i have to stop at about 20 crossings and traffic lights. on some of them, the motor stops running and generally it is a unpleasant ride in the 15-40 km/h region, until the motor has reached temperature. so i just want to run the v7 fatter to stop stalling. i dont need more power, the guzzi has enough for my kind of driving.
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dear all, i appreciate all your help. sorry that i didnt make it clear: i do NOT look for more power. but i am pissed off by the bikes behaviour, be it with or without k+n/different exhaust. you see: i live in the middle of vienna and on my way to work etc i have to stop at about 20 crossings and traffic lights. on some of them, the motor stops running and generally it is a unpleasant ride in the 15-40 km/h region, until the motor has reached temperature. so i just want to run the v7 fatter to stop stalling. i dont need more power, the guzzi has enough for my kind of driving.
Something is wrong then. Once mine gets past the initial minute or two of running it almost NEVER stalls (maybe it has stalled once or twice in almost 8,000 miles, and those times it was probably something stupid I did).
Start with the basics, make sure valve adjustment is good. Then have a dealer hook it up and check for the latest map.
After that I'd start to wonder if the combination TB unit/ECM has a minor fault.
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And take the fuqueknuckle, poxy, aftermarket air filter out! Then re-set the trims, (On a W5AM bike you can do this by simply disconnecting the battery. Try it.) and ride it for a few hours. It'll ro ably trim itself reasonably good!
Pete
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I'm basically with Kev m. My '13 Stone had a cold idle problem when I first got it but a factory re-flash to the current version fixed it. Now my bike almost never stalls, sputters, hesitates, or anything else. It just runs well.
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I'm basically with Kev m. My '13 Stone had a cold idle problem when I first got it but a factory re-flash to the current version fixed it. Now my bike almost never stalls, sputters, hesitates, or anything else. It just runs well.
That reminds me, I really gotta get that reflash done.
CAM - we gonna plan a ride up to Coopersburg Eurosports for that one of these days?
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That reminds me, I really gotta get that reflash done.
CAM - we gonna plan a ride up to Coopersburg Eurosports for that one of these days?
Yes. I'll call up there and see if we can make an appointment to have two bikes hooked up to get the latest map. Make a day outta it.
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I'd look into the re-flash first. Messing with the stock set-up will change things for certain, but if it did it before the changes...
I know you're not interested, but you CAN change a SB engines production even with these flat-top pistons, but it takes a bit O' money and tear-down. Significantly.... umm... fairly, yes.
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Valve Clearances?
The only time I've had Guzzis stall at idle when warm was when the clearances were too tight.
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And from deep in left field, could it be a clutch that's not completely disengaging? OP mentioned that it dies at stops.
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And from deep in left field, could it be a clutch that's not completely disengaging? OP mentioned that it dies at stops.
Not a bad thought as that's a common problem with these if not set up properly. Though I would think he'd also complain about difficult shifting at low speeds or stopped if that was the case.
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it stalls when cold only, but as i have to pass 10-20 traffic light until its warm i need to have it run fatter. once the bike is warm, it runs good
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it stalls when cold only, but as i have to pass 10-20 traffic light until its warm i need to have it run fatter. once the bike is warm, it runs good
Unless you've done a tail pipe sniff (air fuel ratio) don't assume it's too lean.
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it stalls when cold only, but as i have to pass 10-20 traffic light until its warm i need to have it run fatter. once the bike is warm, it runs good
How long do you let it warm up between starting and departing on your commute?
What are your valve clearances?
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i start, put on the gloves and drive away. the bike had a service so i think the valves are ok
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What about the Fat Duc O2 Manipulator?
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1) i start, put on the gloves and drive away.
2) the bike had a service so i think the valves are ok
1) In my experience with the V7 bikes, they need a little longer to warm when first started, or they'll stall at the first stop sign, or two. You might consider letting it idle another minute, or so, before pulling out.
2) Just because "the bike has had a service" does not mean the valves are in spec. Don't ask me how I know. If it were my bike, I would check them and set them to the loose side of the recommended settings. Your dealer may, or may not have checked them. Your dealer may, or may not have set them correctly if he checked them.
I think you'll find others here at WG will agree with these two points.
And, you said you wanted "fast and cheap". These two things cost you nothing in money, and not much in time.
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The only time I can remember my (twin throttle body) V7 stalling in traffic was when the locknuts on the throttle cables down at the throttle body end had loosened themselves off, and the idle would go under 1,000rpm. Then, a bit of clutch would induce a stall. Of course, the loose nuts were the last things I found, hidden as they are behind that pretty cover.
In the beginning it did need a cold start routine - "choke", ignition, a few minutes running, "choke" off, ride away. I do seem to remember the bike being reluctant to run smoothly at low revs for the first few minutes in the early days, but that gradually improved with use. After 15,000k it wasn't so much of a problem & after 30,000k I haven't used the "choke" at all. Start it up, ride away. At 120,000k I now have other problems, but that's not one of them.
Mal
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What about the Fat Duc O2 Manipulator?
Why? So he can add another piece of crap that might damage his engine? He'd need two as well so it wouldn't be cheap.
The simple, cheap, sollution would be to remove all the crap and tune it properly but I can see that isn't going to happen so I'll bow out of this one.
Pete
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What about the Fat Duc O2 Manipulator?
I already explained earlier why Pete thinks that's a bad idea.
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I already explained earlier why Pete thinks that's a bad idea.
With all due respect, one instance of too much gasoline washing the cylinders clean of oil does not make a trend. Have not other owners of V7s (and other Moto Guzzis) had success with this cheap and easy option?
I guess I am just frustrated with the negativity associated with the topic of modifications. In the Triumph Modern Classics world, modifications are cheap and easy and, perhaps more importantly, encouraged. Here, they are poo-pooed. Why is that? Are very few Moto Guzzi owners willing to modify their bikes?
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I'm not anti modifying. I'm anti modifying by people who don't understand how stuff works and then piss and moan and blame the bike or manufacturer when they screw it up.
I'll bet that 95% of the modified Triumphs you describe run like a three legged donkey with a broom handle up its arse too.
Pete
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I believe Todd Eagan of Guzzitech also warned early on of seeing negative effects with FatDuc type coolers specifically on the new 1tb models.
But if you or someone else wants to run a test with a pair of them I've got a pair available for that purpose free to the tester.
I've decided against running the test myself.
I'll not get into a pissing contest of Triumph or anything else vs. Guzzi. But I'll say that the more popular the brand the more options there are for upgrades (and cheaper the options).
Probably the king of such things is Harley because of not only the huge market but the purposeful decision by the MoCo to leave easy power on the table.
I'll say that generally the other brands I've been involved with all benefited less from such modifications (smaller % of HP gains) probably because the OEMs left less easy power on the table than Harley. So that plays a part in it.
Still there are easy reflashes or maps available for the CARC bikes (B11, Norge, Griso, Stelvio).
It's just there's not much yet available for the 1TB bikes (Cali 1400 and V7s).
And to make matters more complicated on the V7s, the head design severely limits what you might gain.
So we don't poo on everything, but try to be realistic about what is available and what might be gained with a few models.
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I'll bet that 95% of the modified Triumphs you describe run like a three legged donkey with a broom handle up its arse too.
I would take that bet. Triumph itself makes Arrow pipes and silencers an approved option and even includes an ECU re-map as part of the deal so the bike will run as well after the modification as it did before. (My Thruxton certainly runs just as well, despite using freer-flowing British Customs "silencers" instead of Arrow cans.)
I dare say some people are not looking for more power when they install an after-market can. They are looking for something that sounds better to them.
But I come back to this: why not encourage people to experiment with their bikes? So what if they screw it up? It's a bike! It can be fixed.
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He might want something like this. <iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qqpcBpSsj1A?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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Not to turn this thread into a mods thread (as we've had PLENTY of those), but I dare say some folks have witnessed some poor running habits from certain mods and NOT WITNESSED the good mods others have done. This may be because they have a job as a FIXER so they are witness to the negative and rarely to the positive. I look at mods as a double edged sword. If you get it right it can be very rewarding, if not, well...
Things aren't always right from the factory either as most of us can attest.
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With all due respect, one instance of too much gasoline washing the cylinders clean of oil does not make a trend. Have not other owners of V7s (and other Moto Guzzis) had success with this cheap and easy option?
I guess I am just frustrated with the negativity associated with the topic of modifications. In the Triumph Modern Classics world, modifications are cheap and easy and, perhaps more importantly, encouraged. Here, they are poo-pooed. Why is that? Are very few Moto Guzzi owners willing to modify their bikes?
I tried an O2 spoofer in my '07 Norge. The bike ran incredibly rich, to the point where it put the bike into limp home mode. Oh, and this in the middle of a 1600 mile trip. The O2 sensor was totally black and had to be replaced so I could get home. The unit was sold as one specifically set up for my bike (from a vendor many of us use) but was completely unsatisfactory. My gas mileage plunged to the high 20s or low 30s!.
I'm not afraid to modify my bike. That seems to be true of most Guzzi owners since I rarely see a modern Guzzi that is 100% stock. What Pete and others are trying to say is that in this application spending money for different air filter and mufflers produces no benefit in terms of power and will usually make the bike run worse than stock. I had my ECU dyno tuned for a totally stock bike. That did not make much, if any, difference in power output. All I got was a smoother running bike. One can make all sorts of changes to the V7 engine but, unless you are willing to spend lots and lots of money, you are still riding a 40 rwhp machine. If you really want a better riding experience, upgrade the suspension.
The OP would be much better off with the most recent factory map and a good valve adjustment than any kind of electronic band-aid.
Peter Y.
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Not to turn this thread into a mods thread (as we've had PLENTY of those), but I dare say some folks have witnessed some poor running habits from certain mods and NOT WITNESSED the good mods others have done. This may be because they have a job as a FIXER so they are witness to the negative and rarely to the positive. I look at mods as a double edged sword. If you get it right it can be very rewarding, if not, well...
Things aren't always right from the factory either as most of us can attest.
+1 So true! And folks will show up here with a problem but they rarely initiate a thread to tell us how well their bike is running.
Paul
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I would take that bet. Triumph itself makes Arrow pipes and silencers an approved option and even includes an ECU re-map as part of the deal so the bike will run as well after the modification as it did before. (My Thruxton certainly runs just as well, despite using freer-flowing British Customs "silencers" instead of Arrow cans.)
I dare say some people are not looking for more power when they install an after-market can. They are looking for something that sounds better to them.
But I come back to this: why not encourage people to experiment with their bikes? So what if they screw it up? It's a bike! It can be fixed.
Well there you have biggest difference.
Triumph, Harley, Ducati, and probably some other brands sell aftermarket style mufflers AND matching maps or race ECUs.
Guzzi doesn't.
Maybe that's why they seem to have made the V7s more self-adjusting then the ECMs from those other brands.
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Take off all the horrible shit you've put on it and it will run nicely. None of the horrible shit will make it any faster and you yourself have found that it was a waste of money that made your bike run like crap.
I, for one, really do appreciate Pete's direct manor. ;D
Something is wrong then. Once mine gets past the initial minute or two of running it almost NEVER stalls (maybe it has stalled once or twice in almost 8,000 miles, and those times it was probably something stupid I did).
My 2013 V7R is the same.
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(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/Penderic/Good20Luck20WIth20That_zpspbuwsfoi.jpg)
"Fix my brakes, the horn stopped working." :D
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What Pete and others are trying to say is that in this application spending money for different air filter and mufflers produces no benefit in terms of power and will usually make the bike run worse than stock. I had my ECU dyno tuned for a totally stock bike. That did not make much, if any, difference in power output. All I got was a smoother running bike. One can make all sorts of changes to the V7 engine but, unless you are willing to spend lots and lots of money, you are still riding a 40 rwhp machine. If you really want a better riding experience, upgrade the suspension.
Peter Y.
This.
The shitty K&N won't take out anything smaller than medium sized birds anyway so not only does it screw yer fueling but it'll bugger yer bores and top end as well. Bonus!
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Well, at least here in Europe you can fit Arrow mufflers if you want to at your STB V7. The dual types however are not street legal, however the two-in one types are. You can get them officially from Moto Guzzi. But why should I tinker with the wonderful sound that even my neighbours all like from the stock LaFranconis?
And, yes, even though my bike (end-of-2012) is reflashed with the newest firmware it stalls in the first 2 minutes or so if I let not warm it up properly. And, do I care? I do not use it for commuting, I regard each tour shorter than 30 minutes out of town as harmful for this old engine layout. If I want something different I would look for an MT07 or such a thing.
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Off Topic-but as stated above Triumph provides a map with the Arrow 865 option. When BIKE mag put this option on a Scrambler they are testing the performance went down with the supplied Triumph map.
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ok, does anybody have an answer for my question? ;D
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ok, does anybody have an answer for my question? ;D
To recap the advice given so far:
1. Check your valves
2. Take Pete's advice and put the stock air filter back on
3. Try giving the bike two minutes to warm up before starting your ride
I also have a (US) 2014 V7 special, all stock, and it runs flawlessly. I fire it up, put on earplugs, helmet, and gloves, and go.
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Are you sure the service was done properly? Head retorque if it was the first one?
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Yup. But none of them will be as cheap as you want.
You bought a bike.
It didn't run as you'd expected so you screwed about with it and it ran worse.
Having invalidated your warranty you go to the Internet to have a winge and ask someone, anyone, to fix your screw up.
When it is pointed out, politely, that you are a fool your answer is to cogitate for a day or two and then come back and try and be smart.
Grow up.
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Yo Pete, you know I love ya man... but is your testicle acting up again? Take it easy on the poor guy. :-*
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Last week we had a single throttle body V7 in for service. It had the stock air cleaner. He added Agostini stainless larger diameter head pipes and a pair of Agostini Titanium mufflers. The system does still have a crossover pipe. I expected this bike to loose everything on the bottom end but this was not the case. The bike took a long time to warm up but ran fine everywhere once warm and this is without the DB killer. Now I am in no way saying Pete is wrong about his assertion, the bike did not really run better but did not seem to be hurt by the pipe. It may be unique to this pipe combination. I am unsure if the mapping in the US is any different than European mapping.
The pipe was loud but very deep in tone.
I am not saying you or anyone should run this bike on the street, just posting our experience.
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Why? People are bending over backwards to give him advice and his attitude is to troll! Bollocks!
Pete
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Why? People are bending over backwards to give him advice and his attitude is to troll! Bollocks!
Pete
Maybe there's a language barrier, maybe we came at him too hard/too fast, maybe he's a moron, I dunno ... YET.
But I figured I'd give him the benefit of the doubt. :BEER: (I'm so mellow and tolerant). :BEER:
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Last week we had a single throttle body V7 in for service. It had the stock air cleaner. He added Agostini stainless larger diameter head pipes and a pair of Agostini Titanium mufflers. The system does still have a crossover pipe. I expected this bike to loose everything on the bottom end but this was not the case. The bike took a long time to warm up but ran fine everywhere once warm and this is without the DB killer. Now I am in no way saying Pete is wrong about his assertion, the bike did not really run better but did not seem to be hurt by the pipe. It may be unique to this pipe combination. I am unsure if the mapping in the US is any different than European mapping.
The pipe was loud but very deep in tone.
I am not saying you or anyone should run this bike on the street, just posting our experience.
Walt, as I've said he can do anything he likes with his bike but if it's poor running pre-dated the addition of the aftermarket stuff, which I see as un-necessary and potentially damaging but nobody is forced to agree with me, then surely the best thing to do would be get the poor little thing to run RIGHT in stock trim rather than throwing a load of crap on it and then asking for a 'Cheap' solution for a self made problem?
Anyway, I said I'd bow out of this. I should take my own counsel.
Pete
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Walt, as I've said he can do anything he likes with his bike but if it's poor running pre-dated the addition of the aftermarket stuff, which I see as un-necessary and potentially damaging but nobody is forced to agree with me, then surely the best thing to do would be get the poor little thing to run RIGHT in stock trim rather than throwing a load of crap on it and then asking for a 'Cheap' solution for a self made problem?
FOR THE RECORD, I'm not disagreeing with your advice.
1. Return it to stock and see if problem persists.
A. If it DOES, diagnose and fix, then go back to playing with aftermarket bits.
B. If it DOES NOT, then you know the aftermarket bits are the problem seek out Rexxer or similar solution.
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Why? People are bending over backwards to give him advice and his attitude is to troll! Bollocks!
Pete
Yeah.
What is it about these new-to-Guzzi, new V7 owners that come around complaining about a running issue, get good advice from the folks here, then argue with that advice?
I don't get it.
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dear folks, sorry if i pissed you off. its probably the language barreier also. to make it clear: the bike runs lean with serial exhaust and airfilter, this has not changed when i put on the k+n and the new exhaust. i have put in the serial air-filter yesterday and still it does not run smoothly on the first kilometers. thats why i asked for help here. ill check valve clearance on the weekend. sorry, running the standing bike a few minutes to warm up in the morning is clearly no option, as i live in the old city of vienna with lots of houses and churches around and dont want to wake up everybody here at 7 o clock.
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dear folks, sorry if i pissed you off. its probably the language barreier also. to make it clear: the bike runs lean with serial exhaust and airfilter, this has not changed when i put on the k+n and the new exhaust. i have put in the serial air-filter yesterday and still it does not run smoothly on the first kilometers. thats why i asked for help here. ill check valve clearance on the weekend. sorry, running the standing bike a few minutes to warm up in the morning is clearly no option, as i live in the old city of vienna with lots of houses and churches around and dont want to wake up everybody here at 7 o clock.
get a Prius then
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dear folks, sorry if i pissed you off. its probably the language barreier also. to make it clear: the bike runs lean with serial exhaust and airfilter, this has not changed when i put on the k+n and the new exhaust. i have put in the serial air-filter yesterday and still it does not run smoothly on the first kilometers. thats why i asked for help here. ill check valve clearance on the weekend. sorry, running the standing bike a few minutes to warm up in the morning is clearly no option, as i live in the old city of vienna with lots of houses and churches around and dont want to wake up everybody here at 7 o clock.
One of the reasons people might be getting frustrated with this question is that it sounds like you are making an assumption that all of your troubles are just black and white that the bike is running lean and that is NOT necessarily true.
If the bike does the same thing WITHOUT THE K&N and WITH THE STOCK MUFFLERS - then you have a problem which should be fixed before using the aftermarket stuff.
If the bike ONLY does this with the aftermarket mufflers, then I would suggest you don't just ASSUME it is happening because it is lean. Just plain fattening up the mixture is NOT necessarily the answer. SURE it is possible it is lean somewhere in the map, maybe even "too lean" that it may cause some symptoms. But stalling when cold, I dunno, that is usually when an EFI motor is already running pretty rich on purpose. And remember to complicate things further you have a partial Ride-by-Wire bike where idle speed is being controlled by spark timing and ECM controlled throttle position, so it may be struggling to maintain idle speed when cold for another reason.
I know it's popular for people to assume that all modern bikes and cars run lean, and THEY DO IN CLOSED LOOP OPERATION (once warmed up and with feedback from the oxygen sensors). But as far as I know MOST standards for the EU and US do NOT regulate how rich a bike might run OUTSIDE closed-loop.
Many Guzzis (and other brands) seem to run PIG RICH during warm-up and at throttle when out of closed-loop.
So if you can't find anything wrong with the valves or other basic settings, then I would suggest your best bet would be to take the bike to a shop that has Rexxer software and have a custom map put in. IF the dyno operator is honest with you (and does a thorough job) I BET he won't just blanket fatten the mixture everywhere.
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dear folks, sorry if i pissed you off. its probably the language barreier also. to make it clear: the bike runs lean with serial exhaust and airfilter, this has not changed when i put on the k+n and the new exhaust. i have put in the serial air-filter yesterday and still it does not run smoothly on the first kilometers. thats why i asked for help here. ill check valve clearance on the weekend. sorry, running the standing bike a few minutes to warm up in the morning is clearly no option, as i live in the old city of vienna with lots of houses and churches around and dont want to wake up everybody here at 7 o clock.
You have not pissed me off at all! I am on your side in this. No one else may be, but I am! On behalf of at least myself, welcome to the forum!
I like to fiddle with my bikes, too. Why leave well enough alone? The world would not be the same without adventurers and explorers...
Best of luck to you!
By the way, you live in an awesome city!
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Well, I'll repeat my offer.
IF someone wants to test a pair of Fat-Ducs on a 1TB V7, I can provide them.
Just monitor the spark plugs and head temps closely, maybe pull over and check the oil a couple of times too.
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Greetings harryzet, and welcome to the forum, I re-read through the suggestions and found nowhere that you might leave the "cold start lever" partially on for the first kilometer or less to see if the enrichment would help the stalling. Although it's not a smallblock I have to do this on myV11 some mornings until I get out to the highway.
By trying this it may lead to a better diagnosis for mapping or mechanical adjustments. Keep us posted. :bike
Paul :BEER:
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Greetings harryzet, and welcome to the forum, I re-read through the suggestions and found nowhere that you might leave the "cold start lever" partially on for the first kilometer or less to see if the enrichment would help the stalling. Although it's not a smallblock I have to do this on myV11 some mornings until I get out to the highway.
By trying this it may lead to a better diagnosis for mapping or mechanical adjustments. Keep us posted. :bike
FYI.
No cold start lever on the 1TB smallblocks. As I explained idle speed is completely controlled by the ECM through throttle control and, we believe, spark control.
The 2TB smallblocks HAD a "Fast Idle Lever" but it did nothing for cold start ENRICHMENT (which was again handled by the ECM based mostly on cylinder temp sensor input). All it did was physically hold the throttle plates open a tiny bit to produce a faster cold idle and help prevent stalling.
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I like to fiddle with my bikes, too. Why leave well enough alone? The world would not be the same without adventurers and explorers...
Best of luck to you!
Absolutely! Motorbikes are toys! ☺
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dear all
greetings from austria :-)
G'day mate! Lol sorry I couldn't resist.
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bike runs lean with serial exhaust and airfilter, this has not changed when i put on the k+n and the new exhaust. i have put in the serial air-filter yesterday and still it does not run smoothly on the first kilometers. thats why i asked for help here.
harryzet, please consider how the ECU functions. It modifies (trims) the fuel injections pulses based on feedback from the O2 sensor. It can take many kilometres for this to occur, and this requires steady throttle for best results.
You will not get an immediate change by restoring the stock air filter. You should also pull the main fuses or briefly disconnect the battery to reset the trims. This will restore the fueling to factory default settings.
To get to the bottom of this issue may take a bit of patience. When making changes that may affect how the bike runs, only do one thing, then note any differences.
I recommend restoring the bike to stock, then address the warm-up issue one step at a time. Once you have got a solution that works, make your mods one at a time. Patience!
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FWIW, Beetle probably knows as much about the Guzzi fuel injection computer as the guys who designed it. I'd take his suggestions to heart.
Peter Y.
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Ths suspense is killing me, makes one want to go out and purchase a V7 just to see what is going on!
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You can't translate 'Moto Guzzi' into Chinese. Google couldn't do it, therefore the end is nigh.
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You can't translate 'Moto Guzzi' into Chinese. Google couldn't do it, therefore the end is nigh.
That's because there are no R's or L's in Moto Guzzi. (as in flied lice, or, he say funny, make me raff, and raff).