Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: atavar on May 07, 2015, 10:19:18 PM
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I know this has been revisited a noumber of times, but I recently got the light kit for my givi topcase and made a working adapter to avoid the feedback/dimming issue.
I used the same connectors as stock (AMP Superseal C2 series 1.5 (http://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=1654292_AMP_SUPERSEAL_1_5_SERIES&DocType=CS&DocLang=English&s_cid=1046)) so I wouldn't have to cut the wiring harness. Part numbers for all parts including connectors and pins are in the schematic.
If you do not want the running light function (brake light only) just omit R1 and replace D1 with a wire. I used AWG18 wire.
I soldered all connections except connector pins, which are crimped. Heat shrink as you assemble to insulate and protect the components.
Make sure you are putting the connector pins in the right hole or you will have to order the $50 removal tool. (don't ask)
P2 goes to the topcase and P3 goes to the stock taillight assy.
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm265/Atavar4/TopCaseLights-page-001%201_zpsqyzzhqly.jpg)
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Sure 'looks' to complicated for all it has to do. But I can't think of a shortcut.
Actually though, the anode of D2 should go to P1 pin 2. That would get a little more voltage back on the stock brakelight.
D1 and R1 could then be installed the topcase, if that mattered.
When I added the LED strip to the tail of my bike I needed blocking diodes there too. I used some MBR340 Schottky diodes. You get less voltage loss with those. Right now with the two silicon diodes in series you're running the brake light about 1.4 volts below normal. A single Schottky would be about .4 volts down. Not sure if the stock Norge lights would notice though.
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Thanks for the advice Wayne. If I redo it I'll remember the Schottke suggestion. I don't see any loss in brightness. The only really critical component seems to be the value for R1, that being a bit finicky to keep the running light function bright enough to see while still keeping enough difference from the brake lights to make them unmistakable. R1 value will be individual for whatever light is being used. 1K is a bit dim and 500 ohms leaves too little difference between tail and brake brightness.
I am glad I was able to identify mates for the stock connectors.
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1K is a bit dim and 500 ohms leaves too little difference between tail and brake brightness.
I am glad I was able to identify mates for the stock connectors.
I'm surprised that 1k gives any light of value.
Yes, good find on the connectors. I cut the wires on my Stelvio, which I resisted doing for a while.